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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • If the glow plugs are OK (or at least 2 of them, preferably 3 or 4) then it should fire up right away (assuming that you are waiting for the indicator light to go out before cranking the engine). However, TDIs are harder to start when warmed up because the glow plugs are not turned on after the engine warms up.
    So, if the temperature sensor that tells the computer that the engine is warm already fails, then it may not turn the glow plugs on, and then it won't start.
    I'm not sure, but I think the symptom would be that the glow-plug indicator lamp on the dashboard would not light up, or would light very briefly.
    I've had to change all the glow plugs in my '98 NB TDI, which my son now drives.
    Our 2009 Jetta TDI Wagon Hi-Line is being prepped at the dealer, and they have to install the mud flaps and tint the windows before we take posession :)
  • What's the cost like after 36k miles? such as oil change and other major services?
    So the normal oil change interval is 10k miles?

    Thanks, NJ.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    Like anything, that really depends. But other than oil/filter changes fuel/cabin/ air filters (all common to gassers also) and a host of VISUAL inspections (which you can really DIY) the next real major tune is at 120,000 miles, which is best left to a guru to do the timing belt/water pump and Vag.com tune.

    So if you are the stereotypical car owner that is at the 10th year. ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with the last appender. The long-term cost of PM (Preventive Maintenance) for diesel engine (at least for VWs) is LESS than for a gasser.

    This is mostly due to a diesel having absolutely no ignition-system to deal with. (sparkplugs, wires, distributer...etc)

    Most of the other maintenance costs are about the same. ESPECIALLY since the newer gassers are now Synthetic oil. This makes these 2 engine-types the same in the way of lubrication cost.

    If I were asked to think of DIFFERENCES between Diesel and gasser in terms of PMs. I would have to say the FUEL FILTER on the diesel is larger. That is about it.

    Diesel = Larger fuel filter
    Gasser = Ignition system components to PM
  • To keep your windows from fogging in cold weather, turn on the defroster, set the temp to hot and turn on the a/c compressor. This will draw moisture out of the air before it hits the windshield.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Not disagreeing with you in any way, Bpeebles, my brother's 06 Jetta TDI went nearly 100k miles with only one fuel filter change and recommended air filter changes, oil (and filter) changes and that's it - without an iota of trouble. He has a "different" diesel mechanic who recommends not changing the fuel filter until it cuts out at high speed. Funny thing is it ran fine over 100 mph with over 60k miles on the one fuel filter.:surprise: That said, I change all filters on my TDI on schedule.

    Brother's 06 TDI is gone now. He hit 2 deer at once - got the front, hood, both front doors, windshield, air-bags, and the top. One deer somehow swung around trying to go into the driver's side window. Front and side air-bages saved him from injury. He took the insurance money, bought a 09 CR Jetta and didn't look back. :shades:
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    Hey guy, deer tags and odd six bullets are way cheaper!!! :P

    More on the serious side, VW maintenance intervals can be much more extended if one knows what one should be doing, or looking for. So while part of it is: do not try this at home.... While under the warranty (which is meager anyway) by all means do what is necessary to comply with warranty requirements and IF it requires warranty there are no issues. After that you self warranty ANYWAY as they always remind you when you look for warranty service after the warranty service is OVER!!??.... So for 3 other examples (with yours counts 4) 1. air filter requirements actually have been shown to be mis-measured. I have literally almost doubled the interval and it actually filters better!? 2. My Japanese Civic has needed 3 alignments in the span of time the Jetta has needed NONE (79,000 miles vs 114,000 miles-GTG to 200,000 miles!!?? ) 3. oem to built for oem oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 mile intervals.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    My brother has shot a lot of deer in his life. Maybe this was payback.

    After I bought my TDI, I changed the oil and all the filters right away. Even though the car was nice and clean under the hood the air filter was bulged out in the middle and the fuel filter was corroded, looking like it had never been changed. Surprisingly, it ran fine and I couldn't tell any difference with the new filters. What really made the difference in how it runs was putting it on the highway for 12K miles. Runs like a different engine now.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    Indeed your post got me thinking of an important 5000 mile maintenance item that literally is in NONE of the technical literature. If one has a "snow screen" it should be cleaned every 5,000 miles !!!! TDI's were meant to be driven slightly to moderately aggressively.
  • I was checking at the Dealer to see how much the 40K mile service was, the first one you have to pay for, on my 2009 TDI. They said the cost for the 2006 TDI with the DSG tranny is $469. This includes oil and filter, DSG fluid and filter, cabin filter, air filter. I know the parts would be about $260 from tdiparts.com. An oil and filter change is about $75. It seems as though you are captive to the dealer while the 60K powertrain warranty is in effect.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    No, you are not captive. You can actually DIY and or sub out stuff like the DSG oil and filter change for example. It is important to obviously keep the records and receipts.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I think it is a fair price and money well spent. The dealer can be counted on to do it right, with no risk to you, no spillage on your property, and to dispose of all the waste fluids in an environmentally correct way. There's overhead in staffing and inventory.

    I used to do oil changes on my wife's 1996 Volvo wagon (and normally all our other cars), then when she got a 2004 Volvo V70 it had a new type oil filter with a replaceable inner element which I wasn't familiar with. When the 3 or 4 years of dealer free maintenance was over I took it to a quick lube place because I didn't want to pay the dealer price, the other place was closer, faster, cheaper, and I could observe the oil change. I used to take my 1991 Dodge to this quick place with no problem. I would give them a Mobile1 filter and the exact oil I wanted used.

    For this V70 I gave them a Volvo filter insert, O-ring seal, and 6 qts of Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Service oil.

    They didn't have the right wrench to remove the filter housing and the cheapo wrench I had got from Volvo broke when they tried to use it. (Volvo had a better one but I got the cheaper one.) The quick lube staff had already drained the oil by the time it was clear that they couldn't get the filter housing off. They put the drain plug back in and I had them add their regular oil.

    Then I went to Volvo dealer, bought the better wrench (they gave me credit for the broken one), went home, drove the front wheels on my too low but fail-safe solid wood, 35-year-old ramps. The filter came right off with the new wrench, but I could not get the drain plug off. It looked to me like it had been installed without the aluminum crush washer which I had supplied. I had only 12-sockets and rounded off the plug. Then I went back to Volvo in my wife's car and got a new plug and crush washer and advice. Volvo service said to use vice grips, if that failed it would have to be drilled and tapped.

    But back at home, under the too low ramps, I could not get a good angle to apply force and just chewed up the plug with the visegrips. I stopped at this point. The car had fresh dino oil and a clean filter. I drove it that way for 3 or 4 kmi. During this time I worried that the steel plug had ruined the threads in the aluminum oil pan and researched systems for drilling and tapping to install a steel insert into aluminum.

    Finally, I took it to a good independent Volvo shop where I could watch the work being done. I wanted to see how a competent worker did it. He tried a couple of different wrenches and neither worked. I thought the quick lube and I had really done some costly damage.

    When the tech picked up an air chisel and aproached the plug I thought destruction and costly replacement was at hand. But he chiseled tangentially on the plug in the direction to rotate it counterclockwise and it loosened immediately. (As I had thought there was no crush washer.) And the threads were OK. The tech put it the new plug and washer I had gotten from Volvo, changed the filter, and put in my 6-qts of Mobile1.

    Point being go to the dealer or other qualified service place for the warranty maintenance.
  • andyvmnandyvmn Posts: 1
    I'm looking at an '06 Jetta TDI, only I have concerns about having a diesel in MN. My dad has put the fear of god in me about the fuel gelling. Has anyone had any trouble with starting their TDI in the Minnesota winters? I worry about the weeks we spend below zero. I don't have a garage, so my TDI would be parked outside in the cold.

    I'm also open to any other suggestions/advice in buying the TDI.
  • I'm in PA so it is not as cold but I've never had a problem. But . . . one thing that is a headache is defrosting the windshield. You can not start the car and leave it run - it will not defrost until you drive for a few minutes. In the mean time the windshield will frost over again even if you've scraped and/or sprayed with deicer. If it happens to rain and then freeze you have a real problem. It can take several minutes to chip thru the ice. I like my TDI and would by another but this is the one drawback.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    No worries about Jelling if you put in an additive. PLUS, unlike gasoline-additives, using the correct diesel-conditioner can really be benifectial.
    --The increased Cetaine quiets down the engine and gives you 2-4 more MPG.
    --The lubricant protects your very expensive injection-pump

    I always ALWAYS add about 6 oz of PowerService at every fillup (WHITE bottle in winter / GREY bottle in summer) All WallyMarts carry PowerService.

    I have been driving in Vermont winters for 6 years with absolutely no jelling at all. You will have more issues with getting heat from the engin than from jellin.

    Even if you chose to never add fuel-conditioner, your local fuel supplier adds kerosene to the diesel as the temps get colder. Also, the TDI is designed to heat the fuel as you drive so the fuel-filter is kept warm. Any paraffan in the fuel will melt and pass thru the filter.

    If you are the nervous-type of person, just keep a spare fuel-filter in the trunk. Any jelling problems will be resolved by replacing filter.

    You can also carry a bottle of DIESEL-911 in the trunk... guaranteed to instantly resolve any jellin.

    Dont forget that jelling ONLY is a problem if enough paraffan particals build up on the fuel-filter to stop the flow of fuel... this is very VERY unlikely to happen.

    Contray to what some folks may think... jelling DOES NOT affect starting the engine at all. Instead, a jelling problem will manifest itstelf by causing engine to stall out after driving for several miles.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    The coldest I have started my '05 TDI is 2 F and it sprang to life on the first full compression stroke. You should research the camshaft issue on the PD engine and the special oil that is required to keep the cam alive. At the very least the valve cover should be pulled and the cam and lifters visually inspected before you buy. My brother's '06 started well at -10 F with no jelling in NE - he used an additive also.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    I am wondering if the new 09' Jetta TDI's will have the same problem with carbon/gunk build up in the intake manifold and EGR system?
    The 1.9 ltr TDI's could carbon up enough to eventually stop the engine, and the clean up process is expensive, dirty and doesn't really solve the problem.
    I have heard that the new 2 ltr TDI engine is a complete re-design, so am curious if anyone has heard that the clogging up problems of the older engines has been resolved.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,705
    It was not so much the engine, as pre 2009 engines were designed to run on the European version of ULSD (15-9 ppm). The ULSD was not commonly available till October 2006. The higher (500)ppm sulfur LSD mandated till then, by CARB and EPA that is/was the main culprit.

    There is/was of course a wide range of variance. On a 03 TDI, run the majority of its(114,000 ) miles life on LSD had ZERO intake carbon/gunk buildup. I suspect I will need little to no cleaning at 200,000 miles or @ the second 100,000 miles, when the TB/WP changing is due.
  • My 09 TDI standard has been outside all night in -15f in the New Hampshire White Mountains this past winter. No problem starting. I do wait until the glo plugs heat up. The car is a little stiff when that cold which is to be expected.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Everything is a little stiff at -15f. Makes me shiver to think of it.
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