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VW Jetta TDI



  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    Heat has never been a problem for me with the TDI's I've owned. Live in the Chicagoland area. Don't know how long in minutes it takes to get hot air as I've not been interested enough to time it.
    09 with the leatherette and 2004 TDI wagon with leather seats I don't particularly enjoy how cold the material can be in very cold weather, however, heated seats fix that issue in short amount of time.

    1982 Chevy Silverado 6.2L diesel that I drove many years ago, now that was a cold blooded truck.
  • I am in my second winter with my 09 TDI (6 speed standard). I have spent many weekens up in New Hampshire skiing in the winter and have started my Jetta in the morning after sub zero nights without any problems. I do make a concious effort to wait until the coil light goes off before starting. It takes a second or two longer before the light extinguises itself on very cold mornings. As far as waiting for the car to heat up I dont notice it taking much longer than a gasser. The heated seats do help in any case. I am approching 37,000 miles.
  • The consensus in the Denver area is that with Diesel No. 1 the tdi is good to start down to -10F even without additives. The battery heats both the glow plugs and the fuel filter, which seems to help a lot. Because I live where it can get below -10, I bought Terry Frost's Frostheater product and it's excellent. I have it plugged in when overnight temperatures can be expected to go below 20F. It's just easier on the glow plugs and the engine generally. The plus is that when you do that you get heat in the cabin almost immediately.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    With properly blended fuel, the TDI will start down to very low temps without a problem. Using your own additive is basically insurance on the chance the fuel you're buying is NOT blended properly. Buying at high volume locations or known fuel depots is a best practice regardless, but screw-ups happen and that's when you'll be glad you added your own protection. Diesel is just NOT as forgiving when it comes to the weather and a major temperature drop or driving cross country could cause concerns. I recall an early cold-snap in New England states a few years ago leaving a lot of diesels with gelled fuel lines because the fuel wasn't mixed for the extreme temps that hit.
  • I'd agree with that, given the variation in blending. I think -10F is pushing your luck without additives. I remember not starting one time in Colorado at 8+F...let it sit until high noon and 20F and bingo, it kicked right off.
  • Any experience with the radio and possibly the video input on the back?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    Umm .... the issue with fuel Gelling is NOT with starting the engine. With gelled fuel, a VW TDI will start just fine.... but after driving for several miles, the particals of parrafan start to plug up the fuel-filter and can stall the engine.

    The fuel is heated by way of excess pressure from the injection-pump being fed back into the fuel-filter. However this may not be enough heat below -10F.

    The need for diesel fuel-additive is many-fold. Certainly anti-gell in the winter... however the incerase of Cetane and lubricants for the injection-pump are also important.

    I use fuel-additive AT EVERY FILLUP all year long. "PowerService" is available at Walmart.
    *) White bottle in winter
    *) Grey bottle in summer

    The increased Cetane improves fuel efficency and quiets the engine too. Unlike gasoline fuel-additives, the Diesel fuel-additives TRULY DO increase MPG because our TDI engines are designed for the European fuel which is not available here in North America. Expect 3-5 more MPG when using a Cetane enhancer!

    I get over 700 miles per tank of fuel... and average 50MPG (measured by entering each fuel-purchase into a spreadsheet for the past 6 years)
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    I am In love with my Jetta Sports wgn TDI I guess they heard the horror stories fixed
    the problems 55 MPG WWWWOOOOWWWW!
  • I checked the URL and even went to theURL for Webasto in Germany. Good thing I remembered some college German. In any event, there is no description on either URL of specifically what the heater is, how it works, etc. The only think that looks specific is a picture of the interior of a car, bus, etc. with a yellow glow.

    Do you have any details of how this heater works?

  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Check this UK link:

    The way my brother's Webasto interior (Peugeot - wagon) car heater worked was with remote control, powered by diesel. But there are models with timers, etc.
    He was also able to start the car with remote control which is now slowly geting popular in this country as well.

    Details on diesel powered model:

    If I would live in Quebec, Ontario or Alberta - I would definitely get one!
  • Still doesn't tell us how it works. Is this a secret? :P
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Open the second link that ends with "teaser" and click on "products" - and play the video. It shows you in details how it works in heavy British accent. And that is how it works!
  • Okay. Looks like it takes a fair bit of installation. No something you'd want some monkey to try and install for you.

    It's like a 21st century version of the air-cooled VWs 19th century gas heater. :P
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,680
    Let's hope not. Mine caught on fire and luckily I had a fire extinguisher close by. Burnt the paint on front fender. The gas line was leaking to the heater. Air cooled VWs were not great in Alaska. Except in the snow which they would go places no front wheel drive could go.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    If it's installed right, it works great! I have seen it and experienced it EU! Webasto has been making these units for some quite now without any problems (or law suits...).
  • Sounds like the trickiest part would be to wire it up so it turns on your heater blower motor. I wonder how it does that with automatic climate controls and all that computer stuff?

    Very slick item, though. The cell phone part seems a bit sinister though. I might use it in a novel about assassins :P

    I had a Corvair with a gas heater. That thing really put out some heat, but it consumed gasoline at an alarming rate. There were three settings: "too cold, too hot and too medium".

    We've come a long way. I could see this device in Alaska, definitely. When I worked there, we just kept the diesel trucks running for 3 months.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,680
    Were you in Prudhoe? Our trucks idled all day long up there. We plugged them in at night. No cabin heater. Just circulated the coolant and kept the battery charged.
  • No I was around Talkeetna. These trucks were at roadhouses. They would shut them off for short periods of course but usually not overnight. 45 below zero is not fun.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,680
    My son's band plays at one of the places in Talkeetna from time to time. Somewhat of a rowdy little town. No way to make 45 below pleasant. I don't miss it at all.
  • A knowledgeable friend of mine during a recent discussion told me that the turbo unit is a known weak point on these vehicles because there are bearings that receive oil from the engine only when it is running and providing oil pressure.

    Whenever the oil pressure is too low, the bearings are subjected to wear (and then possibly failure). Low oil pressure is a condition that always occurs during each cold start and after each shutdown. Here is his advice:

    * keep revs to a minimum after the engine first fires and starts - never rev up on starting

    * nothing can be done for shutdown, except to ensure that the engine is running at low idle when the ignition is turned off. The turbo spins for quite a while after the ignition is turned off and since the engine is no longer supplying oil pressure (and therefore oil), there is wear caused during each shutdown.

    The good news: he said that he knows of a modification that can be made to the oil supply side of the turbo in order to fix this starvation problem.

    This involves the installation of a small accumulator on the oil intake side of the turbo unit. On installation the accumulator is pre-filled with oil and charged to about 80% of the operational pressure of the oil system.

    Then, whenever the car is started, oil from the accumulator is delivered to the turbo bearings while the engine is developing sufficient oil pressure to accomplish this with out the accumulator. Similarly, on shutdown, oil pressure and supply is maintained by the accumulator during turbo run-down.

    He also advised me that a turbo failure is completely unrelated to the way the vehicle was driven after start-up or prior to shutdown. In his opinion and experience, these vehicles experience this failure because of the poor design of the original equipment. The modification above takes care of the problem.

    Does anyone heard of this solution (& the cause of the turbo failures) before? While it makes technical sense that it would work, I have not seen anyone suggesting this solution.
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