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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Why do you change oil in TDI at 5,000 miles??

    As long as you are using VW-approved oil and quality German-made filter...Here are several reasons to NOT do that;
    *) It costs more money to change oil and filter more frequently.
    *) It is wasting money to drain perfectly good oil out of the engine.
    *) It has been documented that most of the "wear" occours during the 1st 3000 miles after an oil change. (Hence - you are causing MORE wear to your engine by changing more frenquently)
    *) It has been documented that the VW-approved oils can actually go up to 20,000 OCI before oil-analsys show it is breaking down.
  • 50k50k Posts: 10
    shrifty,

    I have 61k on my 2009 Jetta TDI and had the same problem with the exhaust gas flapper valve. VW covered the repair (to my surprise).

    I have been doing my own oil and fuel filter changes, but have had to pay $350 for the DSG service.

    VW sent me a letter providing a warranty to 100k on the DSG, problem is I need to take the car past 120K.

    If I invest in a timing belt at 120k and all the DSG service, what happens when the DSG implodes at 110K ?

    I really like the car, but am thinking of dumping it while it's still worth something for a better high miler ( civic or corolla).

    The savings in fuel make up for the expensive maintenance, however if I would have had to pay for the exhaust gas flapper it would have been by by TDI.

    I drive all freeway here in Wisconsin as the car performs well in the snow and cold.

    It is interesting to see another TDI in the same mileage range as mine.

    Have you experienced or heard of any additional problems before 100k miles ?
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    quote: It has been documented that most of the "wear" occours during the 1st 3000 miles after an oil change

    This is slightly misleading.

    The wear after an oil change primarily occurs at the very first start when there could be a brief delay in oil circulation, but we're talking like 1-2 seconds before the oil pump does its thing. However, it's not very significant in comparison to a normal cold start.

    I agreed with your post in general, however, and would like to add that VW uses a cartridge type of filter with a large element which enables longer change intervals.

    Synthetic oil can easily go far more than 3,000 miles, I agree, but in cars with a small spin-on filter you should change every 5,000 to 7,500 at least because the filter is shot. I am sure that VW's change interval is based on how long they expect the cartridge filter to last and I am quite confident that is far beyond 3,000 miles. When you are using a longer change interval, though, it is more important to check your dipstick and top-off if necessary. Every 3,000-4,000 miles is probably about right for that. (Checking every fuel stop is from an age when cars did consume a lot of oil. :))
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    edited August 2010
    (Colin_I) I am very aware of the 'dry' startup after an oil change can cause additional wear as the oil-filter fills with oil. On the TDI, this is easilly averted by PRE-FILLING the filter-housing with oil before screwing the cap on. Doesn't everyone do this anyway?

    Actually, my reference to wear in the 1st 3,000 miles was in reference to folks who regularly send in their oil to be "analyzed" for wear-particals. It has been noted that on the TDI engine, the wear-partical readings tend to stay high for about 3,000 miles... then settle down to a very low level after that as long as the oil is not changed and the filter does not plug.

    Changing the oil/filter has been shown to make the wear-particals spike up again for about 3,000 miles.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Nice, how did you manage to get that covered?? I have heard of a few other people with that problem, I wasn't as fortunate, quite pricey to have that fixed :mad:

    I have to agree about driving in the snow, the car does quite well. Not with the original tires, but put a decent set on and it is very decent. I have lost some heat on really cold days, but keeping it at speed helps a lot.

    I have had two other issues with the car, one recent. My left rear door lock has been giving me some problems, the door doesn't always want to lock. This is quite annoying as I usually find myself somewhere in Queens/Brooklyn on a weekly basis and not exactly in the nicest of areas. I would prefer to have my car locked and alarmed. Fortunately right now I have my door locked, and as long as I don't unlock it I'm ok... I just open my passenger doors manually (keep left rear closed at all times) so that I don't accidentally unlock and then run into the issue again. I'm sure it is definitely out of warranty (at 56K currently) so I don't really feel like having the expense of repairing it.

    My other issue oddly enough happened at 69 miles, my check engine light came on once I got home from the dealership. Drove for another day or two, and the coil light remained light as well. At 123 miles, the car had to be towed :cry: When I called VW 24 hr hotline, the woman asked me how many miles, and when I told her she said 123 thousand? I said no.... just 123. Turns out it was a loose fuel pump relay or something to that effect and the car has run fine since.

    Being my first diesel I don't have any experience beyond 56K, so it will be interesting to see what happens from here. I have the same extended warranty on the DSG as well, hope it will last longer than that!

    I wonder what the trade in /resale value will be at 100K in 2011? I'm sure it doesn't look good to have a car that is 2-3 years old with that mileage on it, but I heard diesels have a higher value than their gas counterparts. I think I'm going to risk keeping the car until it falls apart, which hopefully won't happen for quite some time.

    I've never been a big fan of driving a manual, but after I've driven a few manual diesels overseas this past year, I'd definitely consider one for my next vehicle in the future.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Does anyone know of a way to disable the DAC? I find it to be rather annoying when driving in a hilly area.

    As for Launch Control, I read in the manual that some Jettas have it, but I don't believe it applies to the TDI. I tried it one night, and followed the steps as my friend read it off to me. The engine revved to about 2.5K and then seemed to stall... Does anyone know which models have it?
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    DSG Jettas have it.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    My 09 sedan has the DSG, but I assume you mean just the gas versions? Or did I misread something when attempting to use it?
  • shirfty: I was in for a regular service visit in 2009 and talking to the dealer about the resale value of an '09. He told me he just gave someone $13K for an '06 TDI with 100K miles on it. I think the car was about $22K new. That's only about $3K per year depreciation, assuming tax :mad: is a sunk cost. I'm interested in the stereo upgrades in the '11 TDIs, but the electric vehicles are coming soon too :shades: .
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    DSG has launch control.....does it matter if its deisel or gas? Dunno....same size engine, gas or diesel, think about it, programming has to be there, and that diesel has some torque!

    I rarely use it, but when I do, its fun.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,684
    I think that was a great trade-in value. I tried to trade in my 2005 GMC in 2007 for a new Tahoe. I paid $26k for a loaded Sierra Hybrid. With 12k miles the dealer only offered $17k in trade. I sold it myself on Craigslist for $22,500. A car with 100k miles is at the end of the line for me.
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    edited August 2010
    That's only about $3K per year depreciation, assuming tax is a sunk cost

    Depreciation doesn't include taxes, and taxes aren't a sunk cost. Depreciation and taxes are both components of the Total Cost of Vehicle Ownership, sure. :)

    A sunk cost is a decision that's already been made and irrelevant for future decisions. Example:

    Repairs made to a car are a sunk cost. The book value of a car assumes that it is running properly in good order. It hurts your pride (and wallet) to fix a car and then sell/trade it, but at the time you decide to do that the repairs actually are irrelevant. It would have been relevant to sell the vehicle *before* it required repair, though. :)
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Not bad for a 5? year old car up in the 6 digits, good to know there will be some value left when trading it in. I'm thinking of keeping the car until the wheels fall off, or when it starts to nickel and dime me. Kinda getting a bit concerned about the 120K service, I know that is a big one and about half way there now.

    As for electric, I definitely will not be considering it any time soon. I'm driving over to NYC tomorrow for work (almost 330 mi), then back on Friday which has been almost a weekly ritual now. With a very limited range on electric, I'd be running on gas probably 90%+ of the time. I don't think the hotels would appreciate a 100' extension cord running out the window so I can recharge... :)

    Diesel is way too convenient, I can fill up on the way out, and almost make it home before refueling again.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Completely agree with the torque, however when attempting to use Launch Control, I really couldn't rev much higher than 2500 before the engine almost stalled. I had ESC turned off, left foot on brake, transmission in Sport Mode, right foot on accelerator... and almost stalls. The manual simply says "if equipped", however I was not able to determine by any other means if it is or not.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    I wish the "VW Superior engineering" you mention didn't include all the grief that us owners of the Mk 5's have to live with, or the unexplained failure of the newer Mk 6 HPFP's that are costing up to $10,000 to replace.

    On a more down to earth point, I am amazed by the lack of 'superior engineering' on my 06' TDi's dip stick!

    You can't tell if your oil level is full, too full or in the operating range without wiping, testing, peering and then repeating several more times trying to get an acurate measure of typical used black diesel oil on a tiny BLACK plastic rod.
    I think another 30 seconds of R&D engineering common sense would have put that dip stick design in the junk bin and came up with something that made some sense.
    A typical Mk 5 VW TDI oil level reading is a total mystery, To add more confusion to the proceedure, the 'book' says you need to drive the car and then wait 3 or 4 min before checking the oil. If you check the level after it's been sitting for a few days, it reads way over full..or too soon and it reads down to the "Ad" mark...seems the VW diesel engine allows a lot of oil to dain back down into the pan.

    Where did that extra oil in the pan come from? Drained from the upper end, where all the Mk 5 damaged cams, lifters and bearing issues are created. :(
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,684
    Nothing like owning a vehicle to find out where it is weak. I only had my 2005 Passat TDI 13 months and no problems. I bought it below invoice and sold it at the peak of the market. Probably the only vehicle I will ever buy new and make $3000 a year later selling it.

    Sounds like I was lucky to sell it, with the problems that model has. I loved driving the little wagon. I hated getting in and out. That will be the last sedan I ever buy. I have all but given up on ever owning another diesel. Just too many obstacles and premiums to pay. Now they are being smogged in CA. If I drove a lot of miles it may be worth the hassles.
  • oli1oli1 Posts: 33
    I mentioned that exact nusance I have with the A3. It just didn't make sense to me, after 35 years of owning vehicles and working on them, for you to check the dip stick when it is warm. When it is cold you get an accurate measure of how much oil you have because 99% of it is in the crankcase.
  • hello Members, I have heard when shutting A tdi down it is best to wait a minute or 2 so the turbos cool down and they will go longer without any defects or breaking down. If anyone is out there with some good advice and answers to this scenario would be greatly appreciated Thank You Roadmaster45
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    While I dont have a TDI, I think this is what you needed to do in the past, with any turbo engine. With modern engines, I dont think you need to do this.
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    edited August 2010
    In short, you are correct. Longwinded technical explanation coming up...

    Letting turbochargers cool was a necessity in the past because of 3 main reasons:

    1. They were not watercooled, oil-cooled only.

    Today's OE turbochargers are all oil and watercooled. This helps keep the center section temperature down considerably.

    2. They had sleeve bearings.

    Today's turbos have sealed ball bearings which are much more durable. They spin a lot better too, which helps efficiency.

    3. Significant improvements in oil technology, especially synthetics.

    I strongly advocate the use of full synthetic oil in all cars, but it is especially helpful in turbocharged vehicles as it will help prolong the life of the turbocharger.

    In summary, a modern turbo should last the life of the engine. I believe the TDI uses a Garrett variable vane turbo, which is very high tech. It will go well over 100k miles with no trouble on a stock engine.

    The only cooling I would advocate is after a very hard drive, such as 30+ minutes during steep mountain driving. And even then, you are fine after 2 minutes of driving out of boost at lower speeds or idling. This is completely unnecessary for normal travel or commuting.
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