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VW Jetta TDI

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  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    I finally had my Jetta in to have the fuel door looked at. Apparently I am not the only one who has had this issue. Apparently alot of the n :P ew 2006 Jettas have a problem with the cable that opens and closes the fuel door, it sticks and needs to be replaced and lubricated. So my advice is that if you have any problems with the door get your dealership to replace the cable. Hey maybe it is the cold Canadian weather up here??
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    "I had the engine light come on (2004 Jetta TDI) with around 30k miles. Took it in to the dealer and they said it was the EGR Cooler? what the? and that it was damaged by using "green" antifreeze instead of the "pink"."

    Thats pretty funny. The lameness of some VW dealers really never ceases to amaze me. The fact that these EGR coolers are failing at very high rates on the 04 PD's had nothing to do with your EGR cooler failing (I just had mine replaced at 26K miles), but the green coolant must have ate holes through this stainless steel heat exchanger (puhleeeeeeeese). You really don't want to put anything but G-12 red antifreeze in your Jetta because there are o-rings, seals and other things that might have their life shortened by it, but the EGR cooler certainly is not one of those items. This dealer should be ashamed of themselves for even suggesting it.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    The timing belt change interval on the differant year TDI's vary quite a bit. Some of the earlier models required a 40K belt change (but there were upgrade belt kits that could be used to go 80K); the newer models go 100K before a belt change. One thing that I would highly recomend when you do your belt is changing everything that is driven or turns off of that belt including the water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys. If any of these items fail before your next timing belt, the odds are that they can take out your new timing belt and engine with it. Be aware that there are also certain stretch bolts on your engine mounts that cannot be reused when the TB is replaced also. TDI engines are interferance engines, if the timing belt breaks, or does not get replaced correctly it can easily cause the entire engine to get destroyed. I would suggest reading up on the subject at TDI club so you are more knowlegeable about what you really want done and while you are at it there are club members in some cities that can either do it themselves or recomend garages that will get it done right. Most cars today are all non-interferance engines, if you make a mistake changing the TB, or if a component like an idler roller fails 30K miles after the belt is changed its not that bad to correct the problem. This is not the case with these engines.
  • This may sound like a stupid question but how do you change the oil from under the hood? I have been changing the oil in my TDI and have never changed the oil plug, I just use an O ring and it seems to work well. But I do agree taking the fastners off is a pain. If there is an easy way I DO want to hear this and will try it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Basically, you suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube.

    There are many oil-changing units available to do this. (Boats with "inboard" engines have no other choice... one does not drill a hole in the bottom of the boat to change the oil ;-) )

    This is the Oil Changer which I use (got on sale for about 30 bucks)

    Here is another example.

    Also, you can use the oil-sucker to get the puddled oil out of the oil-filter housing too.

    You can also used my oil-sucker to change differentail fluid, power-steering fluid , brake fluid and other fluids which have no drain.
  • Sounds to me like your fuel filter is in need of replacement. Have you had it replaced recently? The symptoms are consistent with those of a clogged fuel filter. I had this problem in a 2001 Golf TDI (which I no longer own, sadly), and it had the exact same symptoms, with the exception of the exhaust smell (not sure where that's coming from). I hope that helps!
  • tac2tac2 Posts: 2
    Hi,new guy here. My 2002 TDI won't start after I shut it off. On four occasions I had just started the engine, it had run for only about one minute. I shut it off to go back in the house , came out to start again and it wouldn't. It would turnover but not start. Had to wait about 30 minutes to start it. Any suggestions? Thanx
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Dont start a diesel engine if you are not going to drive it.

    By starting the engine then turning it off, you are confusing the onboard computer so much that it has troubles calculating the correct startup injection quantities.

    You MAY be able to improve the situation by having your IQ checked. (Injection Quality) Also make sure all 4 of the glowplugs are functinoal.
  • I purchased a Pela 6000 oil extractor as recommended on the TDI Club maintenance video, and used it to do the first oil change on my new 05.5 Jetta at just under 5000 miles, and used ELF 5W-40 505.01 oil and Mann filter.

    I think the info on the video, and from the TDI club web site is correct that you can get more of the old oil out of the engine by placing the suction tube down into the oil cooler when the oil filter is removed. That oil doesn't come out by just letting the oil drain from the drain plug.

    However, since I was installing the TDI Heater at the same time, and had the plastic skid plate removed anyway, just out of curiosity, I decided to remove the drain plug to see if there was any oil left in the pan.

    After I had drained all the oil I could with the oil extractor, by putting it down both the dip stick tube, and the oil cooler body, I was surprised to get nearly 3/4 of a quart more out of the pan despite having made very sure the extractor tip was bottomed out in the pan through the dip stick tube.

    Since I have 6ft deep grease pit in my garage that I can drive the car over to work on it, I didn't find taking the plastic skid plate off that big an inconvieniance. Getting that much more dirty oil out makes it worth the effort, so in the future I think I will use the drain plug to drain most of the oil, and the extractor to get out what remains in the oil cooler.

    That was my observation. Now here is my question. Why does the drain plug need to be replaced after being removed? I wasn't aware of this, and put back the same plug I took out. I drove the car for about 15 minutes with the skid plate off then pulled back into garage and checked for coolant leaks from my TDI Heater installation, but also checked for oil leaks from the plug, and filter housing, and found none.

    Thanks for any enlightening info you can provide.

    :confuse:
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I don't think that I have seen the oil change video doing on TDI club but I don't think they would tell you to replace the oil plug other than to reinstall it. I thinks its a good idea to replace the oil plug gasket every couple of changes but the oil plug itself should really never need to be replaced unless you decide to put in one of the plugs with a magnet on the end. I have an 04 PD TDI Jetta and I do both types of oil changes. At some point (particularly if you drive the car in the winter where it snows) you might want to consider replacing your plastic skid plate with an aluminum skid plate (there are a few options available to protect your pan if this applies to the 05's). I know on the 04 Jettas, the oil pan is aluminum and that plastic skid plate will not stop a chunk of frozen slush falling off of a truck wheel well from ripping up the plastic skid plate and putting a hole in your oil pan. I'm not sure if VW has gone back to a steel oil pan in the newer models. The other thing that you need to be carefull about with the aluminum oil pans is stripping the threads on the pan when you do the oil changes from underneath (I installed a Fumoto valve on my daughter's car to prevent this). I do a bottom side oil change for about every 2 or 3 topside changes. I also have found that no matter how hard I try to get it all out from the topside method, that I can usually get about 3/4 liter more out doing it from underneath (I just don't like having to remove my skid plate unless there are other things that I will be doing also). As far as the oil on these cars looking black and dirty, don't worry about that, someone at TDI club did an experiment and changed the oil 3 times in a row only running the engine long enough in between oil changes to flush it out and the oil after the last change still turned black immediately. I know that based on the wealth of data from used oil analysis at TDI club that the 10K oil change interval is quite adequate, so I just bump up my oil change interval to about 7,500 miles to compensate for that 3/4 liter that I don't get out when I do the topside extraction. If you want more peace of mind with your decisions, get set up to send a sample out for analysis when you do your change.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,864
    Other folks have done essentially the same thing and gotten little to no residual.

    I would suspect that truly while it might be "distressing" in fact it is not a big deal.

    I say that because if you look at the "dry" fill vs the oil change, the math indicates some oil is indeed left, i.e., you CAN NOT get all the oil out unless you dismantle the engine etc!! :) :(

    Point two. the owners manual describes a dipstick measuring procedure. What it does indicated is that the "correct" oil level will show different on the dipstick during the correct procedure parameters than measured "overnight" Overnight will measure of course higher than normal.

    I hope this is clear. If not fire your questions away.

    Elf and Mann stuff are good products!!

    As for the "crush" washers, they recommend new ones each time to serve as a reference points, for who knows when a used washer will lose its holding abiity and let the oil leak?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The reason that VW recommends REPLACING the oil-plug is because the gasket (crush washer) does not come off of the plug...thus, the entire assembly must be replaced to get a new one. (Since it is designed to "crush" when used, it should never be reused.)

    As for the skidplate, one can chose either STEEL or ALUMINIUM. Obviously the steel is stronger... but is also heavier. Adding a skidplate makes the already-low clearance even worse.

    Also, one needs to consider replacing the plastic SIDESKIRTS when installing a skidplate.

    Here are some links to various skidplate options;
    http://www.dieselgeek.com/skidplate.php
    http://members.porchlight.ca/benad/skidplate.htm
  • drm2drm2 Posts: 4
    This is my first post to the forum. I just bought a 2006 TDI and am very confused about the brand of oil to use in it. I know it must be a full synthetic oil that meets prescribed VW standards. Could someone out there tell me (in layman's language) which Castrol or Mobil product I should purchase? Thanks in adavance.
  • Thanks for the useful info on the crush washer, I'll have to get a supply of plugs I guess. :)

    Unfortunately the metal skid plates aren't shown as being available for the New Jetta's yet. :(
  • The 505.01 designation required to meet VW's standards is not readily available at your local automotive parts stores ( at least not in rural northern Minnesota ).

    If you do a Google search for 505.01 motor oil, you will come up with a number of brands (Elf, Motul, Pentosynth, Amzoil, Castrol, etc.), and online sources.

    Hope this helps. :)
  • drm2drm2 Posts: 4
    Thanks, Sandman. I ordered Elf this afternoon from tdiparts.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    It is really important that you use the correct oil in the engines as the PD (pump deuse: unit injectors) injectors develop about 29,000 psi of pressure and there is a lot of sheer stress on the motor oil between the cams and the injectors. You can buy Castrol 505.01 oil from any VW dealer. You can buy Elf 505.01 from "www.elfusa.com", a new supplier just started selling it on Ebay. Currently "www.tdiparts.com" has 506.01 oil on sale at $13.50/liter (the 506.01 exceeds the 505.01 oil). You can get Motul 505.01 from "www.worldimpex.com". All of these sites are good sites that cater to TDIs.
  • Does anyone know how long it takes for VW to get their DriverGear updated? I want Stainless Exaust Tips for my 06 TDI and the VW people are no help on a timeline. Any ideas? :)
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    This is another resource for metal skid plates to replace the OEM plastic belly pans.

    http://www.evolutionimport.com/Volkswagen_Skid_Plates_s/17.htm

    I'd appreciate any shared wisdom based on actual experience with metal skid plates on a Jetta or Passat. (Toureg's excluded for obvious reasons.)
  • I am a used car owner, and the previous owner took the car to the dealership and has no idea how to do the oil change. Since I have owned the car, I have gotten an oil change 3 times, but I really dont want to spend 96$ to get the oil changed every time. And since I drive quite a bit because i am a commuting student, i need to get the oil changed more frequently. I decided to buy the oil and filter myself, which cost quite a bit less, but I cant seem to find someone who knows how to do VOLKSWAGEN oil changes to show me how to do it. I need help. Please and thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Oil changes for the TDI are 10,000 miles. Use the proper oil and all will be OK.

    Check here for videos about how to change oil and other TDI maintenance procedures.

    HINT: Clean your "snowscreen" ASAP. (I find the snowscreen in my 3 VWs is filthy every 12 months.)
  • I know this probably has been asked before but I'm new to this board.

    What kind of mileage are owners of the new Jetta TDI getting? I've heard from other folks that after it's broken in their seeing 50 mph highway or even slightly better. Has anyone here experienced that? :confuse:
  • I have kept track of gallons and milage from day one. (Nov. of 05) I have an 06 TDI automatic. I'm getting 38 mpg. and have 9800 miles on the car.
  • My 05.5 Jetta TDI manual 5 spd has a MPG calculator in the red portion of the dash. It will read current MPG, and cumulative MPG since last zeroed (which I typically do at each fill) I've never seen the cumulative under 42, and that has been when I've been doing a lot of stop and go, and short distance non-freeway driving in colder temps. I have seen it as high as 56 on steady speed limit (60) highway driving, and closer to 50-52 with steady freeway speed limit driving (70).
    I like it compared to my 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee that now sits in the garage because it was getting about 16 mpg all around driving and about 20 long haul freeway driving. But it does do a better job hauling and breaking through the snow drifts when necessary. ;)
  • Thanks for the link.
    I checked it out, but it seems a bit pricey compared to what the links bpeebles posted showed (especially the steel factory one for the 01 Jetta).
    I think I'll wait a little while to see if some other less expensive options develop once this model has been out awhile. :)
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I installed an Evolution Imports aluminum skidplate on my 04 PD TDI Jetta and really like it. I chose that particular skidplate over the Dieselgeek plate because at the time he wasn't offering aluminum and the stell plate he offered decreased the ground clearance an inch or 2 more than the Evolution plate. (I'm pretty sure now you can get an Aluminum plate very similar to the Evolution one from Dieselgeek). The plate that I installed really didn't have much of an affect on my ground clearance. When you install it, it really makes the install much easier if you have a pneumatic impact gun for socking up the rivnuts. If you like to do oil changes from underneath you can cut an access hole in the plate with a hole saw to allow the valve to be operated and get a Fumoto valve with the attached nipple and then run a hose just past the skid plate. (Dieselgeek might offer this as an option on his plates) If you drive your car in wintery conditions, it gives you a lot of piece of mind that chunks of slush falling off of truck wheelwells aren't going to rip your bottom out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The pre- "pumpe duse" TDI has been shown to get well over 50 MPG. (window sticker says 49MPG) The newer "pumpe duse" engines have been reported to acheive less MPG. (supposedly because that are tuned for low emmissions)

    My 2003 TDI (well broken in) regularly gets over 50MPG and has touched 56MPG on long highway trips. If I were to get anything less than 550 miles on a tank of fuel... I would consider that somthing is seriously wrong with my car.

    Of course, anyone looking for MPG will not be using an automatic xmission with a TDI (oxymoron!) The new DSG (automatic manual) xmission has been said to be an exception to this rule. It can get MPG as good as a manual xmission.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I generally post over in the Jeep Liberty CRD forum (own one). I am interested in getting a Jetta or Passat TDI for my wife in 2007 or 2008. I have read back in the CRD forum that VW will not be bringing diesels to the U.S. after MY 2006. Is this true? If so I will be quite disappointed :cry: :cry:
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Below is a quote from a VW dealer in WA state when I inquired about Jetta TDI’s. I expect the “better hurry, almost gone” sales pitch, but thought I better ask around about TDI’s becoming a thing of the past.

    “These cars (Jetta’s) are in extreme high demand and in short supply. To add to this VW is not going to produce a model 2007 in a TDI from what we here in any line of car. So don't wait to long because dealers inventory are already getting thin on 2006 TDI's.”

    Anyone heard a rumor that VW will not have diesels in their 2007 line-up? I’ll also ask at the VW forum.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,798
    I just spoke with the VW information center and they have no information concerning this. In fact they will not have any info about this until just after June.
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