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VW Jetta TDI



  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,679
    I would love to have an Audi A4 Allroad TDI like they sell everywhere but here.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited October 2011
    "My wish.... Subaru TDI"

    Sad part is, they do and right here in North America.

    They are all exported to Europe.

    Strange but true.

    Just took a 2007 Jeep Overland CRD out for a test drive last week and it was a big expensive lump to drive.

    (on a lighter note, I have seen a VW TDI installed in an old dodge mini van, rattles and belches blue smoke, but it's the worlds most mpg van on the panet)
  • Sure VW makes an AWD sedan. it's called an Audi! :P
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    And in Europe and other parts of the world they are also called Skodas. Same components, different bodies, better-built, more reliable and less costly. But not for badge snobs. ;)
  • I am considering buying a used TDI but am intimidated by what I have read on this forum. I am one of those "I want reliability Honda/Nissan/Toyota" people, but I love the IDEA of the longevity of a diesel engine and am seduced by the gas mileage. Can't afford new so I'm looking at a $10K car - 2005 GLS TDI stick - several of them around in the 105k to 150k mileage range, but I won't have any idea about the history of the vehicle. One post on this board said he would never consider buying a used TDI unless he knew how it had been maintained previously. Is this true? Am I crazy to look at buying a used one with this high of mileage having know idea how it has been maintained? My husband has driven Ford diesel trucks forever and we have one that has over 350k miles on it so he says he is not intimidated by diesels, but after reading everything on here I'm not sure...
  • Chaos, I'm in the same boat. I've got a 10yo Toyota that about to hit 120k on the odometer. I'm getting 21mph and I commute ~85 miles a day. I see several for sales on Craiglist around me, and I'm looking for the timing belt replacement and the oil pump replaced, which should be the main issue with the 1.8L Audi Diesel engine.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    edited November 2011
    If I may intrude here upon the conversation, on a topic dear to my heart:

    I would personally get out of the headspace about "longevity", which is merely a speculation projected into the other words, it is not a fact, and therefore should not be part of your calculations.

    The TDI's excellent fuel economy is a fact, and the particular car's service records is a fact, as is the car's present condition--a testament of sorts as to how it was taken care of. So, too, it's excellent driving characteristics.

    also a fact is VWs somewhat "spotty" reliability record.

    In other words, you gotta work with data that is measurable or researchable or can be experienced first hand.

    A spotless used TDI with excellent records---that's good!

    A TDI with 150K on it---not so good...not bad, but that IS a lot of miles for any car. So you could consider a 150K car, but you should pay accordingly, and consider that with those miles, the car's life is at least half over, if not in fact more, statistically speaking.

    Sure, some cars go 300K.

    Most don't, though. It's attainable, but not realistic IMO.

    You have to play the odds when buying a used car, and 300K is like putting $1000 bill to WIN on an old nag.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,489
    edited November 2011
    I think you have to take Shiftright's take pretty seriously. He has been around cars (professionally) probably longer than a lot of folks that read this thread, are old. IF you still decide on an older used TDI, to make sure you are not getting someone else's unmitigated troubles. This is really true for all cars, but for a lot of reasons true for TDI's.

    I run a 04 Civic with 131,000 miles and an 03 TDI with 172,000 miles. I can tell you unequivically that at like miles (110,000, 120,000 miles) the Civic costed more to maintain and used app 32% more fuel. These two cars while perfect for the commute, for which they were bought are not even close to being "similar" cars.

    I am satisfied with each car. However, I do wish the 04 Civic was a Civic TDI. I do not wish the VW TDI was a VW gasser.
  • Hi All... My Bridgestone Turanza EL400s have nearly 40K miles on them now. I wanted to start to do some research on replacements. I was thinking of the Michelin low rolling resistance tires, HydroEdge, because of the 90K mile warranty. Anyone have any ongoing experience with these or better tires? I was thinking of going to the 215s on my '09 TDI over the 205s too.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,489
    Your best bet (barring any special purpose requirements) would be the Michelin Primacy MVX4's in the oem size 205-55-16- H's There are any number of OTHER good choices, given a lot of variables.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    The Michelin MVX4's are good tires. We used them on both our 'o4 Passat and our '06 Jetta; quiet, relatively good on ice and light snow, and handled and rode well. In fact, the MVX4's are the only all season tire rated good on ice. We put Bridgestone Ecopias on the Jetta last year and saw a 4.5% improvement in fuel mileage over the MXV4's. The Ecopias are much more quiet, ride smoother, and seem to handle better than the EL400's. Also, the Ecopias are less expensive than the MXV4's. I agree with ruking 1 regarding staying with OEM sizing. A larger tire will decrease your fuel economy, slow acceleration, stiffen your ride, and increase the speedometer error built into the Jetta. The only benefit of wider tires is improved cornering on dry pavement. Tire Rack is an excellent resource for recommendations and comparisons.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,489
    edited December 2011
    As a contrast, @ 29,000 miles my Bridgestone EL400's look to be able to go 75,000 to 80,000 miles.

    Tirerack lists (reviewers avg rating, currently)

    1. GY Assurance Comfortread Touring (8.5)

    2. M Primacy HP (8.4)

    3. M Primacy MXV4 (8.4)

    4. M Pilot Exalto A/S (8.3)

    5. M P MXM4 (8.2)

    To me the only real "disadvantage to the Michelin" are the prices. It however for a host of reasons was and remains the gold standard/s for the VW's.

    @ the time,I actually researched and settled on Toyo TPT's. (195-65-15 H's oem size)) @ app 61,000 miles, it is on track for 120,000 +miles. Long mileage wear was obviously high on my priority list. Michelin MXV4's were on the top 5 list. In 20/20 hindsight (9/12 years and experiences of other VW and Toyo drivers), I was one of the few that got app 112,300 miles on the oem GY LS-H's. Toyo TPT's for my situation seemed projected to be able to go 1020+ miles and are a far cheaper price than M's.

    Given my situation there is no doubt in my mind that the M MXV4 would be able to do the 120,000 + miles. I did buy on price. One "disadvantage" to the TPT's are its directionality. So the only way you can rotate is front to back and back to front; which is the oem recommendation anyway. However over the miles (200,000) and years (9) I have found the 4/5 tire CROSS rotation to be the best, even as it is NOT the recommended procedure. The concept here is each tire gets on each position, ergo evening out the wear.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    The 'tirerack' ratings are biased in that they only reflect tire brands which they sell.

    We run the "eNtyre" from Nokian Tyres on our TDI.

    Given that we swap-out to our winter rubber pre-mounted on seperate wheels for the winter, I expect a lot of miles from them.

    Of-course, the "drawback" to running winter tires is that the dealership may not be able to calculate the actual miles on the tires if there are any premature-wear issues. The raw odometer miles will include miles which were NOT run on the tires.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,489
    edited January 2012
    Indeed, that is what made the "Toyo's" a stretch/projection. They are not sold nor carried by tire rack. For my application (I actually have a Y,Z rated application also), I would get them again. They have proven themselves (for my op/ed anyway) to be a good price performance ratio. It is modified a bit by the fact that 4/5 tire cross rotation can yield up to 1/32 in more even wear over the life of the set. While 1/32 in MORE wear might sound like a trifle, in my case that can be up to 15,000 miles more wear.
  • kissa4kissa4 Posts: 1
    Would like to know about the outcome of your search for fog lights in your TDI wagon. Need fog lights for 2010 TDI wagon as I live foggy Northwest . Any information regarding supplier other than dealer an total cost would be appreciated. Happy New Year!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2012
    There is a REASON that VW does not offer foglights for the TDI.... most of the orfaces on the front of the TDI are air-intakes.

    For example, putting a foglight into the air-intake for the intercooler could be a bad thing.

    In the past, (on MKIV VWs), one could replace the headlights with "eCode" units which INCLUDE foglights. The headlight switch easilly pops out and can be replaced with one that has foglight settings. (as you can see in the link above provided by past appender)

    Some folks do not realize that the headlight switch slides out if you PUSH-n-TWIST it. (really slick German engineering)

    eCode = European-specd headlight units which are MUCH brighter than USA law allows.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    The SportWagen's stock lower side plastic grills that are replaced when front fog lights are installed are solid without any vent openings. No air passes through these grills. None. Nada. Zilch. Zero. The replacement plastic grills installed with fog lights are vented. I suggest you look at the stock lower grills on a U.S. version Jetta that was built after 2004 and research how Jettas are equipped with fog lights around the world at this link: weit.html
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    edited January 2012
    Ah, those are the same tires you get OEM on a Camry 4 cylinder, so you KNOW that sporty driving is not in the mix here. Based on my friend's experience (I know, it's just a database of one), the Turanzas haven't been very sturdy against road hazard. I have never seen 4 flats on a car with 8300 miles on it before, of which 2 were utterly blameless to the tires, but of the other two---one other having a bead issue and the 4th a mysterious cut in the *inside* of the tire. (rock? defect? nobody knows).

    I am *very* pleased with my new Bridgestone Potenza RE760 Sports on my MINI--it transformed the car for me---smoother ride, good grip indeed. Can't say about the mileage but the tires are only a little more than the Turanzas. I think Turanzas from Tirerack are $116, plus tax, shipping, mounting, blah blah. So probably same-o same-o with the 760s.

    PS: I don't need anything for winter driving, so if you do, the Potenza Sport might not be your baby.
  • faastufffaastuff Posts: 2
    Your question is the heart of the matter, namely--Can I pass the slow guy in front of me and live? Two summers ago, four teenagers in a Dodge Neon passed a car on a two-lane road, swerved back into the right lane, lost control, then hit the oncoming pickup truck head-on with the right side of their car, splitting it, killing two of the four kids and critically injuring the other two (who may have died later, too.) Two days ago, kids of the friends of a friend died. This time, three teenagers in a Chevy Aveo tried to pass their teenage friends in a Pontiac Grand Prix and swerved into the left front of the Grand Prix to avoid oncoming traffic. Both cars went off the road, killing two of the three in the Aveo and major injuries to the third in the Aveo, with the Grand Prix riders mostly fine. Both cars were speeding.

    I see a lack of education (and MAJOR lack of judgment) in these areas:
    1. Understanding acceleration and total time and distance to pass
    2. Knowing one's specific vehicle's ability to pass.
    3. Knowing how much the extra weight in the car reduces its acceleration
    4. Knowing how much the extra weight in the car reduces handling to swerve back out of oncoming traffic
    5. Judging to know if you've actually passed the other car using mirror, window, etc.
    6. Knowing whether the other car is even passable
    7. Knowing to start accelerating much sooner before entering the passing lane to have a jump on the speed
    8. Knowing even published data and tests are likely using new cars with professional drivers with red-line RPM and pedal to metal acceleration.
    9. Knowing decent horse-power and decent torque may be cancelled by fixed gear ratios.
    10. Weather.
    11. Knowing some slow drivers are jerks and will speed up to keep you from passing, so knowing when to cancel the pass and fall back.

    But it all boils down to total time and distance, and judging how far away is that oncoming traffic. I'm working out the calculations that ignore #11.
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