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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,707
    The truth is it varies and is somewhat of a sport to search out. So if I may, here is one tool in the tool bag.

    http://www.sanjosegasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=D
  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,362
    thanks rukes...

    I searched on the site, and it gave me the oaklandgasprice.com link....so I have the info now....
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,707
    As I recall the #2 diesel places off Highway 880 seem to be consistently cheaper than most, like corner stores!! :)
  • harryeharrye Posts: 5
    hello sebring, harrye here. i noticed you have a 2000 jetta tdi as do i. i was driving it in second gear when a pop! occured. the engine now sounds significantly louder and there is white smoke pouring out of the exhaust. any thoughts on what it might be? a seal problem in the cooler?
    thanks for your time, harry
  • harryeharrye Posts: 5
    hello. my name is harry and am new to this forum. i have a 2000 jetta tdi that just experienced a pop! when in second gear. the engine now sounds significantly louder when i turn it over and there is white smoke flying out of the exhaust. needless to say i'm not driving it right now. anybody have any ideas what it might be? a seal in the cooler? thanks,harry
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds as if the piping from the turbocharger and the intake manifold has popped off. Often this can be easilly seen by looking under the hood and check the plumbing on the PASSENGERS side of the engine from the intercooler to the intake manifold. Make sure the pipes are still connected.

    If that pipe looks OK... then check the plumbing from the turbocharger -to- the intercooler. (Much harder to get at because it is accessed from underneath)
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Woops...hit the wrong key! Since I am having trouble finding Mobil One products, I wonder what anyone's thoughts are concerning Castrol Syntec 5W40? I can purchase it locally. It is labeled for and specifically mentions VW TDI on the label. My TDI has always had Mobil One in it. This might seem like silly question, but would you, who know, run a different brand - any brand? I can't see where there would be a problem because they are the same viscosity etc.
    Also, Where can one get a good price on the Lubra Molly Diesel Purge that I have been considering. Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    As I recall, you have a 2003 TDI (same as I). The Castrol Syntec 5W40 is what the VW dealership would use (VW imports that oil to USA for TDI)

    For TDIs with the "pumpe duse" engine, that oil would likely destroy the camshafts. Now that the "pumpe duse" engine has been available for a few years.... the ones run with the incorrect oil are starting to end up in the shop with camshaft problems.
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Great memory Mr. bpeebles. Yes, I have an '03 A4 Jetta. 1.9 TDI. Well, I may as well use that brand then. I know that I wouldn't want to mix oils, but for doing a change w/filter, there is no problem with going to another brand?
    While I have you, I was wondering about the Diesel purge info. The second one you sent, from TDI.parts.com and concerning the info from Mike04golfTDI is very interesting. I was wondering, on the diagram listing A=fuel out from filter, and B = fuel return, concerning the point where I unhook from them, is there a problem with fuel spillage that I need to be aware of? I thank you for sending those. I may use the set up described with the funnel system, simply because I have the funnel.
    Thanks for your input.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Switching to another brand of oil should be of no concern. (If you are certain it meets VW specs)

    As for your question about unhooking the 2 hoses from the fuel-filter.... yes, you may get a splash of fuel from the hoses when you disconnect them. It is a good idea to have a shop-rag under them to catch any spillage. I would expect no more than a teaspoons worth.

    I usually "work" the ends of the hoses off until they are *almost* free, then I am ready to deal with any spillage better when they do come off. Besides, just yanking on the hoses may break the plastic nipple off of the thermostatic return line. (the one with the mickey-mouse clip... you should see what I mean when you see the mouse-ears sticking out 8-)

    Dont forget that diesel fuel is NOT as flamable as gasoline. It is more like spilling a little engine-oil.
  • I just bought an automatic 2001 vw jetta with very similar problems to the one you talk about in your message. Won't go into reverse until the rpms increase or I fiddle with the the shifter in and out of reverse. (That might just be coincidence.) Less frequently the transmission drops hard when I quickly pull out from a stop. Have you had any luck figuring out your problem? Any info would be great
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I went to the VW dealer yesterday to order a fuel filter, and while there, asked him about what oil they sold for my '03 TDI, and he wanted to sell me Castrol's 5W30 or a BMW product. He said that they put 5w-30 in the '03 TDI's. The Castrol container listed approval for both gas and diesel engines, but it did not specifically say TDI. The Catrol Synthetic 5W40 product container specifically mentions VW TDI - but the dealership didn't use that. I repeatly brought that to the service mans attention, and his answer was that the 5W40 products were too heavy and clogged EGR's. Hummm....
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I noticed that my new fuel filter came with a blue and a black o-ring. There are no instructions with it, and the service man didn't know. Is there anything that I need to be aware of with these two different colors?

    Thanks!
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,850
    I would be suspiicious the the service man. Many horror stories about VW dealers using the wrong oil. The reason so many TDI owners do their own oil changes. They plan to keep the vehicle a LOOOOONG time.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are correct to be asking about what that dealership told you. 5W30 is not correct for any TDI engine.

    The main thing is to READ THE SPECIFICATIONS on the bottle. Dont expect to see "TDI" on the bottle... you have to look for the VW505.xx specification.

    His statement about 5W40 clogging EGRs is bogus. Do you not find it odd that Volkswagen themselves have not made that statement? Be wary of other statements that dealership tells you.

    The 2 little O-rings are intended to replace the existing O-rings on the thermostatic controller. (plugged into the top of fuel-filter) When you replace the fuel-filter, you SHOULD NOT remove the hoses from the thermostatic controller. Instead, just pull out the "micky mouse" clip (looks like little micky mouse ears) and then pull the thermostatic controller straight out of the top of the old fuel filter. You will see the 2 existing O-rings on the part you pulled out of the fuel-filter. Match the colors to the locations of the existing O-rings.

    I also find it interesting that you say the service man "did not know what the O-rings were for"... but he seemed to know which oil was correct for your TDI. It is scary that some folks blindly let that dealership maintain their TDI engine :surprise:
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Thanks Mr. Bpeebles... That info on the little O rings is just what I needed. You can believe that I have not taken that service mans advice, but nevertheless, I was shocked at his advise, because it goes against all the stuff I have been reading for the past year that that I have owned this TDI. I have noticed all the horror stories concerning dealerships etc, and now have experienced it first hand.

    I have my diesel purge equipment all made up and ready to go!

    I went to an auto parts place and did find Castrol 5w40 Sync. and it does list VW TDIs on the label. I did not feel comfortable with that though and have ordered Delvac 1 5W40 for my 505.00, which is what I have been using.

    I was getting my filters at Wal Mart, the Fram/Mann... but Fram has changed to a look alike copy, so I scarfed the five Fram - Mann - filters that they had left, from among the other new ones @ 12.77 each, and when I got home and ordered oil and diesel purge from World Impex, I discovered that Impex sold the orginal Mann for $7, so I got one, and am taking the inventory of Frams back to Wally World. But a heads up to anyone who is getting the Fram product - check the contents - it could be a newer less quality filter. It certainly isn't a Mann.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are quickly becoming a wise TDI owner. I also noted that the Fram oil filters at WallyMart have been "cheepened". They used to actually be "Mann" (from Germany)... but the latest stock say "Made in koera".

    Besides, as you suggest, real "Mann" filters can be had fo $7 elsewhere. (plus shipping)

    Dont forget to "prefill" your fuelfilter with fuel before trying to start the engine. Otherwise, you could put about 30,000 miles of wear on your starter trying to get the engine running.

    Also, be cognizant of installing the oil-filter rightside up. This keeps the oil from draining back into the engine when turned off. The cap for the oil filter is PLASTIC (use strap-wrench or leather belt to remove)... only tighten it by hand till it stops. It is the O-ring that makes the seal... not the torque.

    Let us know how your diesel-purge process works out.
  • Hi Everyone,

    I was hoping that someone could help me out with my Jetta. Just last weekend, the car started having the following problem: the car would accelerate and shift well through the second gear, but when it should shift to third gear, it would not shift and the tachometer would just keep climbing with no acceleration taking place (this is around 40-50 MPH) but if the tach were red lined for a while, it would all of the sudden shift. And also, while it was "stuck" in second, the tach would be very jumpy when you press the accelerator.

    So I took it to the dealer. Now, I had had a similar problem before, and they replaced the Mass Air Flow meter and the car ran great. So the dealer gets back to me and says that the IAT sensor is bad ($400), and that I need a new transmission ($5000!). So I told the dealer no way and got my car back. My Dad took the diagnostic log (which said Manifold Temperature Sensor Circuit Fault along with two faults with the trans - Gear Monitoring and Torque Converter lock-up clutch) to his VW dealer, and the dealer looked up the code and it said that I needed a new MAF.

    So does anyone here have any experience with this sort of problem? Could the MAF be causing my problem, or do I really need a new trans? I've read that the MAFs on these VWs can be flaky and need replacing multiple times.

    Also, as a boneheaded question, I wanted to check the transmission fluid level, but for the life of me, I couldn't find the dipstick! I feel like a dipstick, but could someone tell me where it is located on my car? I removed the air filter box and the engine cover, but still couldn't find it.

    Thanks for any help you can offer and I apologize for the long post.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I don't know a lot about the tranny problem, but it sounds more like a sensor issue than anything. But I'd do some more research/diagnostics before replacing a transmission. If it turns out you do need a transmission, I'd look at having your rebuilt instead of using the dealers "remanufactured" program. The remanufactured program is fine, but very expensive. You'll have to check around for a reputable transmission shop (i would avoid Aamco at all cost) and speak to them. Try to find one that knows VW transmissions. I helped a friend locally get her rebuilt (a gasser) by a local shop I know. They had experience with VW trannys and knew exactly what was wrong. The did a full rebuild of her transmission for less than $2,000 out the door.

    As for the dipstick...there is no dipstick. More and more transmissions do not have them. The only way to check/change the transmission fluid is with a VAGCOM where you can monitor than fluid temperature and visibly check through a plug that can be removed.
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