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VW Jetta TDI

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Hasent that switch been the subject of 2 seperate recalls???
  • I have an 05.5 Jetta TDI, not that the TDI really has anything to do with this question, but when ever it's cold ( approaching, or below freezing ) the trunk latch doesn't want to catch when I close the lid. Sometimes I have to slam it as many as 10 times before it finally catches. Sometimes it will kind of catch but the dash indicator will say that the trunk is still open. When it's warm outside, no problem. I've tried lubricating the latch, and I can manually open and close the latch fine with the key or emergency handle inside the lid, but when I try closing the lid, same problem. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so what was the fix? Thanks!
    :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I know this is blantently obvious but.... Have you tired ADJUSTING the latch mecanism? (loosen bolts, move the mechanism, retighten bolts)

    This has been the 'standard' way of correcting these kinds of issues on doors/trunks/hoods for over 30 years.

    Just so I am clear - when metal gets cold...it CONTRACTS. An adjustment that seemed just fine at 80F may not be quite right at -20F. Also, the rubber seal is stiffer (less flexable) at cold temps so the latch must work harder to hold the trunk/door closed.
  • That was something I had thought of, but it didn't appear to be adjustable, and the Bentley service manual I purchased doesn't talk about adjusting any of the latch components, only removal, and replacement.
    I do have an appointment to have it checked out under warranty, but thought I could save myself a 150 mile round trip if it was a problem someone else had actually experienced, and found an easy answer to.
    Thanks
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    You are correct that Bentley does not address this problem. However, Bentley does address the adjustment of the rear lid on the Jetta wagon. It looks like the latch is adjusted by adjusting the lid, just as you would have to adjust door alignment to fix a door latch misalignment. Best left to the pros.

    However, if you push down the black plastic flap that covers the gap on both sides of the latch catch at the base of the trunk opening of the Jetta sedan, you will find two star bolts. You may try loosening those to see if that gives you any wiggle room for adjustment. If so, raise the catch just a wee bit and tighten the bolts.

    Also, check to make sure the weather stripping is seated correctly.

    Good luck.
  • I took it to the pros yesterday, and despite my asking if this was a problem they were seeing frequently when I made the appointment, and being told no. When I got there yesterday, the first thing out of the service managers mouth was " if this problem ends up being your latch, I can tell you right now we have 40 of them on back order, and won't be able to fix it today", I told him I wished they had told me that when I made the appointment, and I would have waited until they had their stock replenished to make the trip. " Sorry" was the only response.

    So any way, apparently this problem is not so isolated, and affects both the Jetta, and the Passat, which uses the same latch. They said it wasn't something they could adjust. It also seems to be more of a problem in the cold weather states however.
    Hope my experience helps someone else.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is is the latch... I have in the past removed and lubricated the latch. This "fix" has worked for many years since then with no problems.

    Just because you "took it to the pros" does not mean much to me. The very definition of "professional" means that somone gets paid to do somthing.... it has no relavance to having any skill in performing a particular task.

    The main "skill" that you will find at many VW dealerships is the ability to replace parts and charge you for it. ;)
  • I have a '06 Jetta TDI (not that the TDI makes a difference is this case) & I had the same problem. Dealer replaced the latch assembly (warranty). Problem started winter of '07 but became much worse into summer & fall of '07. I live in south central PA (Camp Hill).
    cncheez@yahoo .com
  • In this instance I must respectfully disagree.
    If the cost of fixing the problem was coming out of the customers pocket, I can see where "remove & replace" could be a lucrative policy. But when it comes to warranty work, I think if remove, and lubricate were a viable fix, the manufacturer would certainly be money ahead authorizing only that, or at least that as a first attempt at a fix, instead of replacement. In this case I don't think lubrication was the answer... VW isn't noted for it's excessive spending for customer satisfaction. ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You did not mention that they were doing this R&R under warantee.... by all means let them charge VW for it.

    I thought you were suggesting that the dealership was doing this work at your expense.

    BTW: I still think that a lot of dealerships tend to throw parts at a problem instead of troubleshooting to isolate. They make a LOT more $$ selling parts than they do fixing problems.
  • Does anyone know of a Jetta GLS TDI wagon for sale in the mid-Atlantic area? I'm looking for automatic. Thanks for any advice!
  • icaticat Posts: 12
    I have a 2006 TDI with 45,000 miles on it. I am losing power on some hills. I spoke with a dealer who said it sounded like I had to have carbon deposits removed from the turbo. Can I do this with an additive or is this a dismantle engine and hand scrub issue. Dealer estimated $600 for the procedure.

    Ideas?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    While that might be one symptom, a few more details about your driving habits might yield a better swag, short of doing a VAG.com computer hook up and/or dealer trip.

    So for example, I assume a steady diet of ULSD?

    Have you been lugging the engine or not rev ing it correctly?
  • icaticat Posts: 12
    Only ULSD and I am pretty gentle with the car. We live in NE Ohio so it is relatively flat other than about 2000 miles in trips across Pennsylvania which is pretty hilly. I tend NOT to let the car idle very long before starting in the AM but I am guessing the worst thing this could do is to contribute to the carbon build up. That is about it. The car is used primarily for commuting to an from work.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    Let's start with the easy stuff. 1. water in fuel 2. fuel filter needs changing. Corrective action: 1. use an additive 2. change fuel filter

    Another MIGHT be: you do not operate in the zone, the engine needs to operate properly for the diesel engine AND turbo. Corrective action: go to www.tdiclub.com and do a search for TDI break in instructions. You might wish to pay particular attention to what drivbiwire has written on the subject. So another short answer (and inexpensive) is you might need an "italian tune" within the proper RPM parameters for the TDI. AKA drive the car the way it was designed to be driven.

    The use of ULSD has greatly decreased (97%, 500 ppm/15 ppm =) the likely hood of getting intake deposits due to higher sulfur variables. As you know VW TDI's have been designed for a long time to run on ULSD. (15 ppm or less)

    Of course you can contact a local VW guru (preferable) or bring it to dealers (only if you have to or know the dealer you bring it to, specializes in TDI's) and do a VAG.com diagnosis. Dealers have a tendency if they are not specialists to through expensive parts at the problem. Let us know how it turns out.
  • icaticat Posts: 12
    Thank you

    Italian tune...lol
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    You are welcome. The phrase is code for "drive your TDI ENGINE" slightly to more aggressively. This is NOT code to drive unsafely :)

    This might be WAY too much information for you, or as it might serve as a point of reference for your concerns..., BUT I have been present for a number of TB/WP changes at 100,000 miles intervals (60,000 for some of the older models). What these illustrated was the on/ two effects of 1. LSD (CA vs 49 state) 2. mitigations inherent in PROPER OPERATION on the ill effects of the "wrong" fuel. 3. use of ULSD has a startling effect on EGR build up (lack there of) combined with proper operation.

    Indeed my 2003 ran the majority (app 80,000 miles) of its first 100,000 mile interval on NON ULSD #2 diesel, (CA USD @ 140 ppm, to 49 state USD @ up to 500 ppm.) , as the implementation date of ULSD was in (as I recall? slipped from July 2006) Oct,'06.

    Since early on in the TDI's life, I had read and followed those referenced break in instructions. Not too many miiles later, have had the pleasure of meeting Drivebiwire, and asked in person any questions I had at the time.

    Miles later, intake inspection revealed NO build up. However due to normal operation, it WAS slightly black. It was pronounced good to go for another 100,000 miles.

    Another thing is since you are in all likely hood still under warranty, this is a good time to let the dealer run (VAG.com) diagnosis for any issues it might bring up, such as N75, sensors, etc. etc.
  • I had a 2000 Jetta TDI & experienced the loss of power, usually on hard acceleration, e.g. a hwy on ramp. Only way I could drive car after that was to pull to the shoulder, shut off & restart engine. 2 dealers could not replicate problem (so they said). Finally I took it to an independent garage (VW & Porsche). Tech listened to my complaint & told me I had severe carbon build up. I took car home & pulled intake hose. Intake was almost totally blocked w/carbon. I cleaned it as best I could & took it back to independent VW & Porsche garage for more extensive cleaning. Don't remember exact $$ but I think it was less than $300. Never ran as good as early on in my onwership, but I didn't have the power loss again. Traded car in '05 (125K) on an '06 TDI. "06 is a much more refined car.
  • I had the same problem,but not as bad. Quite a bit of carbon buildup in the inake manifold. Did'nt like that so I just disconnected the vac line on the EGR valve. Way less smoke now! And better mileage and acceleration! EGR valves are just EPA gimmick!
  • icaticat Posts: 12
    2006 Jetta TDI. Can I replace the fuel filter without too much trouble? I am not a mechanic by any means but I have changed oil and fuel filters and handled routine tasks in other vehicles.

    Is there a schematic online that shows the location and/or proceedure?

    Thanks
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    The procedure is (WAY) easy enough. The real question is are you able to problem solve it IF you run into a glitch/s?

    You might want to do a search on www.tdiclub.com. They might still have the videos showing how it is done.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The TDI how-to videos are here
  • can #2 home heating oil be used in place of diesel. in an 06 jetta?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    Yes, but for a lot of reasons not a good idea. Outside of legal and IRS considerations, HHO can be 5000 ppm sulfur whereas your 06 Jetta is designed to run on ULSD @ 15 ppm and or less.
  • Why would they allow heating oil to be 5000ppm sulphur,which is 10times higher that pre-ULSD diesel fuel.

    I am just wondering if the heating oil is just ULSD,and that it comes out of the same pipe? Get a sample and take it to get tested for sulphur content!
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,903
    During the season (and the season can be VERY LONG) HHO can burn 24/7, literally for months at a time with 5000 ppm and NO mitigation.

    Wonder no longer. The answer is no. If you doubt that, call up a (local) HHO vendor. (Goggle also) Let us know what you find out to be true.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are just sensing the tip of the iceburg on this one. The heating fuel, locomotive fuel and even the SHIPS that bring the fuel are all allowed to run on high-sulpher diesel.

    More sulfer is put into the atmosphere by shipping the oil to the NorthAmerica than it does by BURNING it in our TDIs.

    The envronmentalests tend to turn the other cheek when it comes to emmissions from the ships which "fill up" at the lowest price for fuel. (which is WELL OVER 5000 ppm)

    And yes, the home-heating oil is high sulfer... every time my furnace is running, I can smell the sulfer outside whilst I am shoveling snow.
  • My 2003 TDI is starting to drive me crazy. The headlights, turn signals, windshield wipers and heater go off all the time. I had it in the shop for 2 days and they have no clue. I am off to the dealer Monday to pay the big bucks and hope they find the problem.
  • Hi guys, I have a 1999 TDI that is having a problem starting in the extreme cold weather of central wisconsin. I've replaced the battery with not much help. Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Kevin
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you cheked the glowplugs? TDIs driven in cold temps. tend to burn out glowplugs every 4-5 years.

    Also, the timingbelt adjustment tends to drift as miles accumulate. Have you verified that the injection timing is set accurately? (Setting it ABOVE nominal really helps with starting cold engine... and also improves MPG.)
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