Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





VW Jetta TDI

18182848687233

Comments

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    I have bought from them before and they are one of the vendors I trust. The original founder regularly attends local (west) GTG's.

    Make sure you get the job done by a TRUSTED local independent shop or guru that knows what they are doing. Do a search in www.TDICLUB.com for a more than comprehensive list. Hopefully this will increase the chances of the job being done correctly the first time.

    I actually want to do this upgrade at some point in my TDI ownership.

    The six speed manual option's upgrade pricing should be coming out soon also. I also understand that 5th& 6th speeds will both have gear size options. Indeed it is quaisi double overdrive type of situation.
  • trosertroser Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I have a 2001 Jetta TDI with 150,000 miles.

    I've recently had a lot of problems starting the car over the past winter. I've been using an additive to counteract the cold weather diesel jelling and I've recently replaced the battery. Yesterday I got my 150K oil change and this morning the car refused to start, in fact it won't even click. The battery is charged, the radio and windows work and the fuel plug light turns on and off like it is supposed to; I'm stumped. :confuse:

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    I think your hard starting problem during the winter took it's toll on your starting system that has been used a bit at 150k miles. Then, I think your new battery upped the voltage and current and finished something off. I don't think your oil change had anything to do with it. It usually boils down to the key switch, a starter relay or the starter itself.

    I recently purchased a Jetta TDI and I am not that familiar with the car yet. All I have done is change oil and all the filters. What I would do is make sure all the connections at the starter are tight including the mounting bolts and hook a voltmeter to the starter lead, set it where you can see it and turn the key switch. If you read 12+ volts the problem is with the starter. Some of the parts stores will test a starter for you for free if you remove it and bring it in. If there is no voltage at the starter then you would test for voltage at the starter relay (have no idea where it is located). If there is no voltage at the starter relay then it is maybe the key switch.

    It has been my experience that the key switch is the least likely and the starter itself is the most likely source of the trouble. Loose connections and starter bolts are also likely candidates. I hope this helps or someone jumps in with better advice.

    If it is a bad starter you might be shocked at how much better your car starts with an new starter and battery.
  • trosertroser Posts: 2
    Siberia,

    Thanks for the advice. I'll replace the starter this week and I'll post my results on the outcome.
  • I have 140,000 miles on my 1998 TDI. within the last couple of days it's been acting funny, it will rev up on it's own when i start it and the car also has been running a little sluggish. has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what to do?
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Don't replace the starter until you know that it is the problem. On my car (1991 Dodge Spirit) it was the ignition switch. Get one of those aftermarket repair manuals and it will show where the components like the starter relay are located, and shows the wires that are involved.

    I didn't want to think the thing out and so I first just changed the starter relay. Changing the relay is the simplest and cheapest repair so you hope it is the relay. But this was not it.

    The starter in this car was in an inaccessible place so I could not jump across the starter solenoid like I had done on older cars. So I could not test the solenoid directly.

    You want to do the right thing when messing with the relay because it is possible to blow fuses (no prob), but if you blow a "fusible link" then it will be trouble. it is also possible to do even more serious damage and even possible to burn yourself if you short the high current 12V line to ground. You really need a schematic.

    Basically the starter relay has four wires connected to it: (1) the (high current) 12V supply from the positive of the battery which will have +12V even with the key off, (2) the high current line to the starter solenoid which the relay connects (1) to when the relay is activated, (3) the lower current wire from the ign switch which has 12V only when the key is turned to the start position, (4) a ground for (3) which allows low current to pass through the activating coil of the relay..

    Briefly shorting (1) to (2) is OK because this is what the relay does when is is activated. But shorting (1) to the ground is not to be done. Damage or injury can result.

    Probing first with a voltmeter has little possibility for harm because a voltmeter or cheap 12V test light is a high resistance. It cannot short anything. If you want to I will explain the voltages you should see at the starter relay socket, but you have to tell me you want me to because it's a little bit of trouble and I'd have to know you are interested.

    If you can find it, the starter relay is a good place to start because it is usually accessible. There are different ways to test it. One way is to see if the ign switch switches on 12 V to the input which closes the relay. This tests the ign switch. If 12 V appears when you turn the key to the start position, then the switch is OK and something beyond it is not.

    To test the relay itself, remove the relay and use a piece of solid house wire say 12 gauge and jump across the two contacts that the relay would connect when the ign switch puts 12 V to the control contact of the relay. If the starter engages, it is the relay.
  • hooplahoopla Posts: 1
    First of all, just want to say thanks to everyone who has posted. I have learned a lot from reading on this forum. This is my first post and I have little mechanical knowledge.
    1 week ago my 110,000 mi. 03 Jetta TDI wont start. IT turns over once or twice but wont fire. Sounds like it is not getting any fuel. I change the fuel filter. i filled the filter with fuel and put everything back together.1 week and no problems. Then today, the exact same thing happens.

    Questions. Is air getting in the fuel system somehow?
    Why would it start and run for 1 week and then quit again?

    My father-in-law said their might be a built in air release valve for the fuel system?
    I don't know anything. Please help.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Troser, here is a link with good pictures of how to remove the starter if you have determined that is what you need to do and you are doing it yourself:

    link title
  • I have been following the recommended oil change intervals of 10K but in talking to a friend who has worked on VW's he said I should be changing oil every 6000 miles. In addition he suggested I change the oil in the manual transmission every 30,000 miles. I'd like your thoughts. I have a 2006 TDI that I purchased new in July of 2007 and I have 38,000 miles on it.
    Thanks.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    I guess I would ask your friend what he's basing his "opinion" on. You only have to look at your owners manual to see what VW recommends. Those of us that have had our oil analzyed can tell you that if you're using the proper oil, VW's recommendation is quite conservative. I had tests at 12k mile intervals that were still well within normal levels. Did he work for a dealer by any chance? ;)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    To add to Sebring's post. There are a number of things you do not state, so in the process of swagging, please correct where needed. I would swag the oem owners manual calls for VW 507.00 specifications. The range will be up to 30,000 miles or by olm indications and what the owners manual calls for ,% oil life remaining. Again read the oem owners manual, but If indeed M/T, it will probably call for 100,000 miles. Be CERTAIN to use oem M/T fluid.
  • While I appreciate your reply you will have to explain for me please.
    What is "swag," "olm," and "M/T."
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    swag= scientific WILD A-- guess

    olm= oil life monitor

    m/t manual transmission.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Driverbern,

    Changing engine oil by the odometer is absurd, but what else can we do. I run a scangauge and GPS once in a while and monitor average speed. Even though I get up to 50 mph once in a while in town my average speed is around 15 mph. When I go on trips that are comparable to a daily highway commute I average around 60 mph even though I drive 65 to 70 most of the time. The point is, if I drive solely in town for 10k miles at 15 mph I will have run the engine for 666 hours. If I drive mostly on the highway I will have run the engine 167 hours in 10k miles. Split the difference and I am at 266 hours in mixed driving.

    Back in my aircraft maintenance daze the oil change specification on the planes I serviced was every 100 hours because the engines and oil had to be perfect on those models. Well, car engines and oil don’t have to be perfect (far from it), but if you drove 100 miles at 60 mph, that would be 6k miles. So in that sense 10k miles seems pretty reasonable if you average 60 mph. On the other hand, 10k miles seems pretty unreasonable if you drive all town since that use time could be 6 to 7 hundred hours. Would it make sense to make an estimate or measure of your average speed or install an hour meter and change the oil say every 200 hours?
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    A simple and reasonable way to do this is to change oil after a certain amount of fuel has been run through the engine since the last change. Of course, you do have to keep track of your total fuel, but you could have a page on your vehicle log where you keep a running total of the fuel fillups. You wouldn't have to buy and install an engine time meter. And total fuel comsumed might be a better measure of oil degradation than time or distance.

    Here's how you would relate this to a distance interval. Assume that you think that it is acceptable to change the oil at 10,000 miles, if you were doing highway driving at 60 mph under conditions where your Jetta TDI would get 45 mpg. This means that you would change oil after using 222 gallons of fuel (10,000 mi / 45 mi/gal = 222 gal).

    Now suppose that in city driving the Jetta gets only 34 mpg. If you changed at 222 gal, then in the city you'd have traveled 7,550 miles (222 gal x 34 mi/gal = 7550 mi), which sounds like a reasonable interval for an oil change according to most guidelines.

    Total fuel use could be considered as a " proxy" for total engine run time or distance travelled, but the total amount of fuel run through the engine is a direct measure of how much combustion products could be in the oil.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Jim314, that is an excellent idea, maybe the best I have heard in a while. I already track my fuel so it is a small step to do what you suggest. Sounds flawless in principle and makes a lot more sense than miles.
  • The more of your replys I read the more comfortable I feel changing at 10K. I generally put on about 4000 milles a month and 95% of that is highway which also means that I am putting on fewer hours that most over that number of miles.
    Thanks for all the input.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,708
    Essentially this is what the software for most OLM's does. There are of course other variables they resolve, so as to get better data.

    The essentially HUGE problem is almost all oil change languages/terms are not stated as you outline.

    So for example a brave new world would involve 1. air filter flow resistance meter (CAT has such a product) which would indicate when to change air filters ONLY when it starts to show "significant resistance" Mileage would only matter as a reference. 2. bypass oil filters to catch those impurities etc. 3. pre oilers to keep so called "dry start" issues to an almost nil status (assumption is most of the "wear" is due to so called dry start issues. 4. OLM and hours of engine operation sensors triggering a signal to take an actual UOA 5. Further triangulation between sensor input and actual real world status could extend the life of these resources air filter, oil, & bypass oil filter, oil., etc :shades:

    Another huge problem: COSTS for increased equipment and testing!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming that you are seeing air in the clear section of fuel-line between the filter and the injection pump. A small bubble or 2 is not uncommon... if all you see is air... that is your problem.

    Some people have reported the 2 O-rings on the thermostatic Tee to leak air. If this happens, after some time, enough air can get sucked into the fuel-system and starve the injection pump. The engine will quit running at that point due to no fuel.

    Do not forget that the 2 Orings are different sizes (and often different color when you install REAL German-made fuelfilter) Many folks have found that the cheap fuel-filters tend to have air-leakage problems at the Thermostatic Tee due to poor sealing.

    Try this, pull the Thermostatic Tee from the fuel-filter and inspect the O-rings. If OK, apply a thin layer of vasolene to the O-rings and reinstall.

    Then, bleed the fuel-filter of air again and see if the problem is resolved.

    Another GREAT tip is to tie a lengh of string from the mickeyMouse clip to somthing solid. That way, you will not ever accidently drop the mickeyMouse clip while replacing fuel-filter.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    There are actually some published algorithms on oil change interval which allow one to calculate an interval from information that the operator has access to, but the main contribution must be the volume of fuel since the last change, relative to the volume of oil in the engine, and factoring in the quality of the oil. Presumably the on-board computer OLM would do a significantly better job than some general algorithm. The on-board OLM is designed for that specific vehicle and it takes into account data from internal engine sensors (especially temperatures) that the owner cannot access.

    Just for comparison take my wife's 2007 gas engine SUV which requires 8 qtUS for a fill. I got the first oil/filter change done at 7251 miles at which the vehicle had consumed 385 gal of fuel for an average of 18.8 mpg. Of this 7251 mi, 1550 miles was a highway trip on which we averaged 23.2 mpg.

    As I recall, the recommended interval is 7500 miles and I sorta jumped the gun because I wanted to try Mobile1 0W-40 to see if that would give detectably higher mpg. Since the oil change she has driven 1715 miles and used 96.9 gal giving an average of 17.7 mpg. We have taken no extended trips in this time so we cannot compare this mpg to the first 7251 miles, but this result leaves open the possibility that the overall mpg is a little higher with the Mobil1 0W-40. .

    Concerning the wear on "dry startup" are you talking about the first startup after changing the oil or every cold startup? I had always heard that most engine wear occurs during startup, and I had naturally assumed that this wear was occurring in the first second or so it takes for oil pressure to rise at startup. But something I read recently indicated that the wear actually occurs throughout the several minutes it takes for the engine to reach operating temperature.
Sign In or Register to comment.