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VW Jetta TDI



  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    I think your first paragraph calls into question the myth and folk lore that has grown up around the 3,000 mile oil change.

    ..."As I recall, the recommended interval is 7500 miles and I sorta jumped the gun because I wanted to try Mobile1 0W-40 to see if that would give detectably higher mpg. Since the oil change she has driven 1715 miles and used 96.9 gal giving an average of 17.7 mpg. We have taken no extended trips in this time so we cannot compare this mpg to the first 7251 miles, but this result leaves open the possibility that the overall mpg is a little higher with the Mobil1 0W-40. "...

    Well you have certainly established a good base line! Good to see you have an eye on how different conditions can and do affect results.

    ..."Concerning the wear on "dry startup" are you talking about the first startup after changing the oil or every cold startup? I had always heard that most engine wear occurs during startup, and I had naturally assumed that this wear was occurring in "...

    Cold start up- correct. I have read in several technical and non technical pieces that fully 60% of the engine wear due to "cold" start up. So the assumption here is a pre oiler would flow oil to those parts that wear, hence "not dry." Another reason for the ZERO W use, as Zero W circulates faster thus cutting down dry operation times for those without pre oilers which is MOST of the fleet.
  • jayvibejayvibe Posts: 2
    (2003 Jetta TDI)
    My wife recently somehow managed to shove the gas cover release button down into the door, where it cannot be reached!?! I'm running out of gas. How can I get the cover open? I tried to pry it open but was afraid to apply too much leverage lest I bend or break something.

    Any advice?
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    It's plausible that "ZeroW" oil would reduce engine wear especially for engines which have a lot of cold starts, and I think it is well worth the extra cost. I don't know what is the cost of a "preoiler system" which I assume is something which establishes some oil pressure and flow before the engine is started, but I am skeptical that could be cost effective.

    It is my understanding that all modern cars have a checkvalve which prevents oil from draining into the crankcase backwards through the oil pump. So oil flow and pressure is very quickly established once the engine is started. The problem is that the oil is at ambient environmental temperature and does not flow as well as when the oil is at operating temperature. This is the source of the disproportionate wear following a cold start. The solution is to use 0W-30 or 0W-40 oil and in a very cold climate to use a block heater. That is, I think that warming up an engine before starting it would reduce wear much more cost effectively than a system which establishes oil pressure and flow before starting.

    Further, I gather that 0W-30 or 0W-40 is zero-weight base oil made into 0W- 30 or 40 oil by adding polymeric viscosity improvers which are coiled up and inactive at cold temperatures, but which uncoil and become active at operating oil temperature. This gives an oil which has the same viscosity at operating temp as 30W or 40W base oil. As oil degrades the viscosity improvers degrade and lose effectiveness so that the oil viscosity at operating temp decreases from 30 or 40 toward 0.

    In the case of my wife's gas engined SUV of the first 7251 mi (385.2 gal fuel) on the original oil 1550 mi (66.75 gal fuel) was a mostly interstate hwy trip. So the non trip mileage and fuel were 5701 mi / 318.45 gal fuel = 17.9 mpg. This is equal within expected variation to the 17.7 mpg obtained since changing to Mobile1 0W-40. I'll still stick to Mobile1 because I believe it may yield lower engine wear than conventional oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    I would say it is a good use!! M1 0w40, as you can still use it in your TDI and Suv.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    The 2003 Jetta TDI was aligned this weekend. The good news/bad news was @ 105,000 miles, it was NOT needed !! The nexus is the car has been driven on some of the worst roads in the nation!! (as ranked by transportation professions)

    The tech said it (drivers side) was a smiggen off, which could have been due solely to the control arm settling in and/or normal variance. He said he could have just taken it off the rack then and there and it would be good to go. However since it was already hooked up; he set it back to dead on.

    Since I just recently got the tires rebalanced, I will continue to use the oem tires till the next 10,000 mile rotation due @ 110,000 miles. I will check again for tread wear and depth. It took a tad to sink in when I mentioned in passing those (crappy) GY LSH's were oem since new. He did a double take, looked at me twice and examined the tires.

    This car is wearing well.
  • hopeful99hopeful99 Posts: 20
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    What tire pressure(s) do you run?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Do you mean the small rubber Orings that come with the diesel fuel filter?

    There should be 2 of these Orings. They are different sizes (and often different colors) They are intended to be installed on the Thermostatic Tfitting. (under the mickyMouse clip)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    "What tire pressure(s) do you run? "

    38-36 psi fronts, 38-34 psi rears. (on 44 psi max sidewall)

    (2 psi range in front/rear- so I can ignore T/P readings for up to 2 months ;) ,also -2 psi in the rears to preserve the cars oversteer characteristics- additionally anything over 38 psi is a bit harsh for anything but what it as intended- full load.)

    Oem fuel cap sticker

    @ 26 psi F/R (half load)

    @ 30 psi F/41 psi F (full load)
  • hopeful99hopeful99 Posts: 20
    not the rubber ring this one is a small steel washer about 3/8 in wide
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I have never seen a steel washer come with a TDI fuelFilter....only the 2 small rubber Orings.

    What brand of TDI fuelFilter came with the steel washer?

    I always use German-branded filters (Mann/Bosch or Meyle)
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    I have also used 1 oem and Mann. I just opened the next fuel filter from Mayle and it has the 2 small rubber O rings, 1 black, 1 blue.
  • In February i had flipped my jetta over in Vermont. It took two tow trucks, a winch, and alot of crossing my fingers. Amazingly, all i needed was a brake purge, and a front end alignment and i was good to go. I went to an autobody shop in New Jersey (that's where i live) to fix the door and front fender. Now, i haven't really gotten the car back yet, because of complications. The door doesn't open when first unlocked, it takes several attempts. once it opens once it's fine, but after every initial unlocking the door takes a small bit of effort to open. Also, i don't believe they put the sound insulation inside the door. In the diesel it can get LOUD over time, so i am very concerned about that. I was wondering if anyone had the schematic which shows the assemblage of the passenger door, or know where i can get one. I know Volkswagen has schematics for pretty much every part, even the side mirrors. Any help would be greatly appreciated, i just want to make sure i KNOW what is supposed to be there so if the autobody decided to cut corners and get lazy i can prove what is meant to be there.
  • altieri3altieri3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Jetta TDI with 71,000 miles on it. The local LA dealership wants $680 to replace a faulty EGR valve. [Car wouldn't start]. They are also recommending a new timing belt/water pump at $1000, though the manual indicates replacement at $100,000 mi. Since I bought the car, it has had bugs approximately every three months, mostly with the glow plugs and harness. I understand the 80k maintenance is expensive.. what other problems should I expect if I don't decide to throw in the towel on this car altogether? My previous car was a 1993 Honda Civic that now has 240K on it and the original clutch.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    First thing to realize is that a VW TDI is not a car for the masses. Second is that VW dealers are, generally speaking, the worst place you can take your TDI for service. It’s a small niche vehicle and most dealers have no clue what they’re doing and will charge dearly for this (lack of) service. If you’re not the type of person that can take care of these things yourself, it would be in your best interest to find a GOOD independent TDI mechanic. They’re out there and I’m sure there’s a decent selection in LA. They’ll charge a fraction of what a VW dealer will and they’ll actually do the work right. A timing belt change shouldn’t be more than $400-$500 and yes 100,000 would be the minimum for most TDI’s to need this service. But a dealer doesn’t make as much money by not being overprotective!! I think they already took you to the cleaners on the EGR “no-start” problem. Not sure what “80k maintenance” there is that you understand to be expensive. Pretty much the only scheduled maintenance on these is generally oil changes every 10k miles, fuel filters every 20k, and timing belt at 100k minimum. You have the owners manual from the sounds of it, so I’m not sure what you’re seeing that needs done.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    Let me add this to what Sebring95 has said.

    Here is a link you might find handy.

    link title

    Some to ALL of the 80k mile intervals is DIY.!!! I take it you do not have a so you might want to do a search for those folks with a in your area. You would only need this to check for codes.

    RUN do not walk from the dealer you mentioned!! You might do a further search for some trusted mechanics by state. There are some good ones in the LA area. However , almost everything I have heard has been universally good about this fellow's place (since you seem to be on the verge of calling 911)

    Harvieux (Leonard Harview)

    Wild Rose Motors Ltd
    148 Lloyd Ave # F
    Fullerton, CA 92833
    (714) 449-0485


    Euro-Tech Motors
    11407 W Washington
    Los Angeles, CA 90066
    (310) 915-7600, Jose


    link title

    My timing belt/water pump replacement was done at a local GTG and all toll it cost app $600. It was done by one of a select few "west coast gurus" I would trust with the 2003 Jetta TDI. I DIY'd the rest of the 100k mile interval.

    It would seem that you will not need a timing belt/water pump replacement for at least a year, more likely two. (14.2k per year/29= 2.04 years).

    All the best and let us know how you make out. We might even cross paths at a future TBD'd GTG!
  • The EGR has a tendency to 'stick open' due to carbon. If you hit the top of it with your FIST it will probably close.This is the pot at the passenger side at the rear of the engine.

    I had the same problem keep occuring. I disconnected the vacum line that opens the EGR. END OF PROBLEM! Only problem is that the engine light will come on after about 25 miles. I found that my car runs better with the EGR dissabled!
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,488
    Right and once you eliminate the "physical" problems you can do an EGR delete on the I am only repeating as emissions are not to be messed with. :lemon: :shades:
  • blundyblundy Posts: 15
    2002 jetta tdi, vehicle starts, runs just fine. Was driving through small town and disregarded RPM's. 30mph in 5th. Noted low RPM's and quickly got back in tune with engine speed. Soon noted MIL small engine figure on dash information screen. Owner's manual that speaks mainly to gas powered units says this indicator is usually linked to emissions issues. Now the light goes on right between 20 and 25 seconds after starting the engine. It stays on and does not blink. Manual says if it blinks, it could be a catalytic issue. No blinking, steady light. No difference to operation of vehicle. I looked at all the hoses and lines I could see under the engine shroud. No disconnects visible. Any ideas?
  • I did the same thing the other day.My glowplug light started to flash just after I stalled from being in 4th gear rather than 2nd gear. In a few days it will stop flashing.

    I am 'OLD SCHOOL'! when it comes to this stuff. Modern engines still work on the same principal. Got oil,Got oil pressure,not overheating,getting same mileage,getting same performance,then there is nothing wrong!
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