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Acura RDX

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Comments

  • depdep Posts: 79
    If you think the dealer is going to inspect the quality of the oil to determine if the break in is taking place in a normal manner you have another think coming! Drain and fill is all you are going to get; they won't even change the oil filter on the first oil change unless you specify it!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, I do my own servicing, anyway. It's the only way to be 100% sure.
  • My wife got her RDX in June and the service light didn't come on until 5,000 miles and it will still have 5% service life left when it goes in for service tomorrow with 6400 miles.
  • My service light went on at about 4k miles - time for first oil change. When I called the dealer, they said it costs $89!!! Why so much? Can I just go to Jiffy Lube and do a change for $20? Is it any special kind of oil that only Acura can do the change?

    -Mark
  • Acura RDX requires synthetic oil. You should be able to get synthetic oil at Jiffy Lube, but the price will be similar to your Acura dealer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    May as well go to the dealer. See if they have coupons on their web site or something.

    Ask for a discount, I bet you get one.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Most dealers use bulk re-refined oil purchased from a local refinery.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    REQUIRES...?

    Or simply recommended..??

    I always use Mobil 1 but I'm quite sure the only short term advantage is slightly improved FE (maybe...) and possibly (???) extended engine component life long term, say beyond 150,000 miles.

    ALL engine lubricating oil is made from molecules resulting from the big bang eons ago.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    One reason why it may be required is the extended oil change intervals.

    That's why, for instance, some BMWs go 10,000 miles between service stops.
  • It's Required. From the Owners Manual (everyone who posts here reads theirs, don't they?):

    Oil is a major contributor to your engine’s performance and longevity. Your vehicle is equipped with a high performance turbocharged engine that requires the use of synthetic motor oil. Always use Mobil 1 5W-30 or an equivalent oil that meets the Acura HTO-06 standard. Not all synthetic oils will meet this standard.
    Only use oils that display the HTO-06 standard on the label. Failure to use Mobil 1 or an equivalent oil that meets the HTO-06 standard can lead to a reduction in engine performance or durability, and can cause engine damage not
    covered by your warranty.

    Also, are you saying that dealers use oil that doesn't meet API/SAE standards and the manufacturers overlook it?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,781
    I bet if you nose around the garage you'll see big tanks in the ceiling with hoses coming down, pumping one size fits all oil into every car that comes in to the shop. It's probably all 10w30 at that.

    Unless enough people have caught on by now to make the dealers actually pay attention to the oil requirements.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Don't know where you live, but many dealers are offering the 1st service free, - sure it's to keep you coming back. See if you can get them to offer you the same. Some posters have said their dealer has offfered the first 2 oil changes for free.

    They should offer something similar - otherwise what's the incentive for you to go to them? With this economy, it's in their best interest to lure every potential customer they can. They will lose nothing by changing the oil for free.
  • I spoke to the sales manager. After initially declining to do anything for me, at which point I told him I had bought 4 cars from another of their dealerships, and had bought my last from them, he called back an hour later and said the American Honda rep was in and agreed to pay for it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Cool. :shades:
  • My wife drives a 2008 RDX w/ Tech Package. The car has 9000 miles on it. From the very first day, we noticed a constant knocking sound from the rear. When we finally found the time to take it into the dealer, they said the rear driver-side strut was working ok, but was making a noise and needed replacement. Has anyone else encountered this problem? What was your course of action?

    Thanks in advance for all answers!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,100
    I've had bad struts before... If your car is that new, it should be covered under warranty, right?

    If so, let them replace it.. Struts last a long time, any more.. Having one new one isn't going to throw anything off..

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • Bad struts in a new car?
    I understand how struts work and that they last a long time, but was curious about other instances in such new cars....again, thanks for your insight about the warranty replacement! Take it easy....
  • TomTom XL330S is what we picked up and it has just been awesome, no issues at all.

    ON another note tommorrow I will be doing a deal on a 2007 RDX base in mint shape only 11K miles on it, I am looking forward to it feel we got a great deal here in Coquitlam BC Canada. I am just hoping I get decent gas mileage some of the #'s I have seen are scary I would have got the 07 SE Murano I was trying to pick first but the deal just was not good enough Acura really went the extra mile to get my business...
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    You can only get "decent" FE from a turbo engine if you LOVE being a "boy-racer", 0-60, type. The RDX and CX-7 engines are so severely derated during normal non-boost operation that it is impossible to attain a reasonable level of FE vs a non-turbo 4 cylinder engine of equivalent size.

    In order to get the turbo to spool up quickly the engine must put LOTS of WASTE ENERGY into the exhaust manifold at the low end. Additionally in order to take full advantage of the BOOST the native compression ratio of the engine must be lowered.

    Both of those design effects result in HORRIBLY poor FE at normal highway cruising speeds.
  • Some of the plastic pieces on my passenger side air vent broke (the thing that directs the air).

    Any idea if this is covered by the warranty? And will Acura fix for free?

    I have a 2008 RDX Base Model on lease

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I doubt it - something must have hit it, causing the damage.
  • Does anyone know how to change the battery in the key fob for a 2008 RDX?

    I toko the key fob apart (unscrewing the one screw), but when I popped it open, I did not see the battery.

    Any help would be great.

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • I have seen people are intensively discussing about the stiff suspension :sick: and rough ride of RDX, but not a lot of info about how to soften them. There is a rumor, saying Acura has softened suspension from 07 to 09, but it must be very minor as I can not feel it after test driving. I just got one 08 model but start feeling the stiff roughness, although I like all the other features.

    It definitely a personal preference, as someone like stiffer but other don't, unfortunately I am not really in the stiff side. As I am now stuck with Acura RDX and stiff suspension, does anyone know how to soften the suspension a little, except reducing the tire pressure? I already reduced it from 32 to 30 PSI, but didn't feel any improvement. Does any one have experience with dealership to make any adjustment? Of course, the cheaper approach the better.

    Thanks for any advice,
  • novicenovice Posts: 64
    Tiger,

    I feared the same issue but must say, I have found the ride to be okay. I went from a 2006 TSX to the 2008 RDX. It's obviously a different deal, but I was expecting a noisy, rough ride. Not the case. And, I set my tires at 34 lbs. I know this doesn't answer your question---but some of this is an expectations game. The same is true for MPG. I hit 35-36 mpg highway on the TSX. I knew the RDX would be far from it. But, it still meant I had to get used to something even though I knew it when I purchased. By the way, it's a new 2008 for me but I recently clocked 24.5 on the highway @ 65-70 mph. I expect this will improve when the RDX is 'broken in' but so far so good. I live in Washington state where we had a once in a 15 year snow event, and the RDX was phenomenal. Lots of other AWD's were spinning wheels and sliding, etc. but the RDX was terrific. I hope you can get the ride figured out. If others have suggestions I'd be interested.
  • I lease a 2008 RDx base model. My car is due for a B1 service, and Acura quoted me $245 plus tax (Nassau county New York).

    I am leasing the car from American Honda. Do I need to do this maintenance or can I skip it and be ok when I turn in my car?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • Hi did you ever get an answer on the RDX suspension? I love everything about the car except it is just to rough for me during my 30 min drive to work and frequent road trips. I really am hoping there is something I can do about the stiff suspension/rough ride.

    I went to the dealership and they said there was nothing they could do, I find that very hard to believe since there are so many people asking about it.
  • mtairyordgemtairyordge Posts: 144
    I need to replace/add to the radiator fluid for my RDX. the manual says to use HONDA fluids of course, but goes on to say that a high quality non-silicate fluid designed for aluminum engines should be used.

    Can anyone tell me what OTC radiotir fluid that is?

    Thanks in advance.
  • 30k, 40k, 50k? your driving style? Are OEM tires good or any other better replacement tires after the first set is worn out?
  • mark4490mark4490 Posts: 16
    I'm got to play around the the SH-AWD some more this weekend and I was downshifting, instead of braking, while going into flat, downhill, and uphill turns. You have to press on the gas through the turns if you want the SH-AWD to kick in.

    The road conditions were very good (smooth new asphalt) and it didn't seem dangerous in the RDX. The engine braking slowed the vehicle and when I turned and stepped on the accelerator, the revs jumped/turbo kicked-in, and the RDX carved around the turn. I only tired braking into the turns a few times. It seemed like downshifting was a better for getting the revs up fast when accelerating and kicking in the SH-AWD around the corner.

    I only overcooked one turn because I wasn't expecting it to be an S and the rear has drifted slightly into the opposite lane. I'm not sure if the VSC kicked in at the point. Fortunately, the roads were relatively empty. I took it down a notch after that. :blush:
  • aardxaardx Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I just bought a 2007 RDX - and after driving it for the last two weeks I have started to notice that there is odd smell coming from the engine (outside the car) and its not exactly a burning smell but smells like over heated metal. The smell stays for only 10-20 seconds than disappears. I am getting no warning messages from the car that it is overheating but I am wondering if any of you have come across this? Perhaps I am over analyzing this??
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