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Who Pays $12000.00 To Fine Out If A Brand New Toyota Camry 2006 Will Develope Sludge?
A guy who Loved Toyota Camry did not want to belived that a brand new Toyota Camry 2006 will develope Sludge.
This guy SAID that he purchased a brand new Toyota Camry 2006. He SAID that he new that Toyota Automobile were developing sludge. He SAID that he is going to use Mobile One Oil in his brand new Toyota Camry 2006. Mobile One has an oil that guaranties 15000 miles. If this Mobile One Oil causes any parts to fail in your car Mobile One Oil will replace the part or parts free.
This guy started to use Mobile One Oil in his brand new Toyota Camry 2006. When his brand new Toyota Camry 2006 had a millage between 34000 miles to 40000 miles his brand new Toyota Camry BLEW ITS ENGINE. He SAID that he had changed the oil in his brand new Toyota Camry 2006 as the manufacture recommends. He returned his brand new Toyota Camry 2006 to the Toyota Dealer where he had purchased it. The Toyota Dealer said that the reason that the engine in his brand new Toyota Camry BLEW, because it is his fault. Toyota SAID that the engine in his Toyota Camry 2006 which has between 34000 miles and 40000 miles will COST HIM $12000.00 to have this engine replace.
THIS IS AN EXPENSIVE WAY TO LEARN ABOUT TOYOTA DEFECTIVE AUTOMOBILES WHICH ALSO INCLUDES LEXUS.
Thank you for updating the info for me. I learn something every day.
But you need to direct that to mcdogg and delray210 who said there is no engine sludge that was not the fault of the owner and that it ended with a certain date, along with negative comments about advocate Charlene Blake, along with his two samples of well-cared for cars which have not developed a known sludge problem yet.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Kindly be advised that I now have 51,000 miles on my V6 XLE Camry. ---- According to Toyota recommendations, I should be changing the engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles. ---- Since this vehicle was new, I have changed the oil and filter at the selling dealer every 2,500 miles. My dealer recommends the B/G - MOA additive to be used in the oil. I have used this additive at every oil and filter change. NOTE: The oil on the dip stick is as clean at 51,000 miles as it was on the day of delivery!
To date, I have replaced the rear brakes and the exterior engine oil line (under the extended warranty).----- Last week I repaced the original tires, and had a four wheel alignment performed on the vehicle at the selling dealer. The vehicle will be three years oil in January.
I have had none of the transmission issues that have been posted on this site. ------ I DO NOT BELIEVE IN EXTENDED OIL AND FILTER CHANGES! ---- Oil is cheap! ----- Engines are expensive! ----- (If the engine in my Camry was to destroy itself, I have all my service records in one place, (at the dealer), and I have had twice as many oil and filter changes as recommended by the manufacturer! ---- I would love to see Toyota deny my warranty claim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am starting to look for a replacement vehicle. This Camry will be traded when it reaches 95,000 miles. (I have a Toyota 6 year / 100,000 mile extended warranty on this vehicle.) ----- I like the XLE Camry and the selling dealer, so as such, this vehicle is on my "short list"! ----- I would also look at a Chevrolet Impala, Honda Accord or a Ford product (if I can find a dealer in my area that I like??????????????) I do not like "high pressure / highway / wise guy" operations! I DO NOT work well with those stores! The Honda Accord is a great vehicle, but the seats are not as comfortable as the Camry. (Prior to purchasing the Camry, I owned a 2003 Honda Accord 4 cylinder automatic that killed my back!) --- Recently I sat in a 2009 Accord and the seats have improved, but they are still not as comfortable as the Camry. I will look at the 2010 Accord.
Best regards to all!
Dwayne :shades:
Success and a good dealer are always a good place to start when looking for a new car, so the Camry looks like a suitable replacement for your use. You might also want to look at the models of the new laCrosse by Buick for 2010. It has gotten good reviews from many often critical of GM offerings, including Edmunds. Be sure in any car to drive exactly the model you're interested in; suspension and seats seem to vary model to model. I found what you did about Accord seats in the past. Civic seats that I sat in were better than Accord's and Camry's were much better at fitting my shape and needs.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I stand by what I said about Blake also -- I think she's claimed every car she has ever owned to be a lemon, and she's owned different makes. Talk about a gadfly!
Since Toyota doesn't recommend any additives for the oil (and modern oil doesn't need any additives, that's just something for the dealer to make money on), it would be interesting to know how that might affect your warranty. Fyi, the oil on my dipstick looks clean after 5000 miles. I think you are just wasting your money with 2500 mile oil change intervals especially since you bought the extended warranty.
I just returned from an 800+ mile sales trip. The Camry was outstanding on the highway. I averaged 30+mpg on 87 octane fuel.
A NOTE ABOUT THE BG ADDITIVE:
My selling dealer recommends this oil additive because it prevents thicking of the engine oil under "high temperature driving conditions!" (This sound like "sludge prevention" to me!!!!!!!!!!!) ---- Most of my driving is highway driving at high speeds, except when I get into cities, where as we all know it is bumper to bumper! ---- During this last trip in New York State, I was cruising at 70 mph, and I did this for seven hours one way! The only time I stopped was for fuel & food. I had a chance to hit the casino on route 17E. Yes, the food was great!
I think we are going to see "sludge issues" hitting the Toyota engines event though the oil change intervals have been lowered to 5,000 miles. Only time will tell!
Best regards.
Dwayne :shades:
Running your car at highway speeds for extended periods is easier on your engine than other modes. I know I can't convince you, but IMO 2500-mile oil changes are overkill in your case.
Yes, I know, ----- but it makes me feel good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best regards! ----------------- Dwayne :shades:
Maybe I should just get a 2008 Toyota Camry or 2008 Honda Accord instead?
Do these not have the same issues, or is it too early to tell?
This is a review that I'm referencing:
Failed CV Joint 40k, uncorrectable dash rattle, poor tranny performance even with updated ECU flashes, failed brake components. The ride, comfort, and drive is as expected, however, the quality and reputation of yore are completely gone for the flagship Camry. Look at the Accord, they have none of these TSB problems! Big regret, should have waited for the new accord! Just paid $300 to fix the failed brake issue, feels like I own a Chevy!
I own a 2007 V6 XLE Toyota Camry that was purchased new! The vehicle now has 55,000 + miles, and I have never had any of the issues that you read about on these boards.
I live in northern N.J. and I have my vehicle serviced at the dealer every 2,500 miles, (oil & filter change.) I believe in very good preventive maintenance. I have a great dealer and the service is outstanding.
This is a "drive by wire" vehicle, so as such, the transmission is not going to react like a system where the accelerator has a direct connection to the throttle by a cable or linkage! ---- If the driver is very "aggressive," in terms of vehicle operation, a drive by wire vehicle will exhibit some characteristics that would seem like a transmission malfunction. ---- My transmission shifts very smooth and the vehicle is very responsive. ---- On the highway, the "passing gear" will pin you to the seat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The fit & finish of this vehicle is outstanding, and as such, I will probably purchase another XLE Camry from the same selling dealer in 2011 or sooner.
NO, ---- I do not work for Toyota or a Toyota dealer. ---- I sell a high line of pleasure boats! ---- I think this Camry is a high quality product! ----- Now you have the other side of the story. ---- You make your own decision!
Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades:
I see 20 TSB for the 2007 Toyota Camry:
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.html?styleId=100699452&engCode=4INA- G2.4&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=33&zip=90620&type=recall&serviceType=
While Honda Accord 2007 Honda Accord has 6:
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.html?styleId=100782925&engCode=4INA- G2.4&transCode=AUTOMATIC&mileage=33%2C000&zip=90620&type=tsb&serviceType=
The brakes, rattle, and minor transmission issues for the 4 cylinder are "average"
I didn't even bother looking at the V6 engine as it was listed as only "average" overall.
The Honda Accord for 2007 is listed as "Best" so I may just go and get the 2007 Honda Accord.
It looks like, according to the reports, that 2008 and 2009 are much better than 2007 for the Camry. They probably learned from their mistakes.
On the other hand, Honda Accord's 2008, when they made the updated design, had their own growing pains as well, so that the 2008 and 2009 are actually on par with the reliability of the Camry though, for 2008 and 2009, I would go with the Camry based off the reports.
No more idle air bypass system, no more cruise control servomotor, DBW dethrottling for TC & VSC rather than fuel starvation via EFI....
The bad..
Random engine power delay as declared needed to "protect the drive train".
In favor of reduced weight (FE and ATF cost) the ATF sump volume has been minimized. Therefore the "FILL" level is VERY critical, an 1/8th of a qt too much and you get frothing due to gear splash once the ATF has warmed. 1/8th too little and the upper range gear shifts are not reliable when the ATF is cold.
Newer models have a SEALED transaxle and BOLD caution notes in the factory service manuals.
The second reason, possibly the primary failure cause, is the result of a design flaw inadvertently introduced during the design of the RX300's more robust, vs the Camry "model" transaxle. The new ATF line pressure control system, "real-time" line pressure control, cannot support two sequential gear changes in quick succession. Lift the gas pedal for a short period coastdown and then quickly reapply pressure to the gas pedal and with DBW you will likely experience a 1-2 second downshift delay before the engine will be allowed to produce enough torque for your desired level of (re-)acceleration.
Ford solved the problem by adopting a variable displacement ATF pressure pump. Porsche has followed suit, sorta, with a variable displacement engine oil lubricating pump.
High volume flow even with the engine at idle but with the ability to reduce the pump displacement and maintain constant flow/pressure, no pressure relief valve needed, as engine RPM rises. Why no one has ever thought to do that with the power stearing pump is beyond me.
This may actually have been done to protect the consumer. Way too many dealers were selling ATF drain and refill, or complete flushes, when the factory had no such requirement. Besides which not many dealer service personel would be careful enough not to overfill the transaxle.
"..V6 has too much torque.."
No very likely to be the problem as ALL of these vehicles have DBW and the engine ECU control firmware could easily be used to detune/derate the engine and improve FE in the process. I understand this is already being done in low gear ranges with many FWD and F/awd vehicles in order to reduce the instances of loss of directional control.
"...Traction Control..."
The instances of TC activation would seem to be far too rare for TC to have any real effect on transaxle failures. Besides which TC activation also IMMEDIATELY drops the engine torque to virtually ZERO.
Yesterdays instance was the same, it snowed, transaction control engaged, and the lights came on. Now it all remains to be seen.
You mean "TRACTION CONTROL". There is NO transaction control. There is ONLY a "TRACTION CONTROL" warning light.
I remember reading on a separate "parts sticker" that was on the rear side window of my brand new 2010 Camry LE regarding where most of the parts of the vehicle were manufactured. The sticker said that the engine "and" that the 6 speed automatic transmission on my 4 cylinder automatic 2010 Camry LE were BOTH manufactured 100% in Japan. Or at least that's what I think that the sticker said. The rest of the vehicle was manufactured somewhere in Kentucky in the USA.
Can someone here confirm this with me that BOTH the 4 cylinder engine and the 6 speed automatic transmission that's currently in the 2010 Camry LE are BOTH manufactured in Japan? I didn't get this particular window sticker from the Toyota dealer when I picked up my brand new 2010 Camry LE. The Toyota dealer gave me ONLY the window sticker.
I would like to know whether or not the 4 cylinder engine and the 6 speed automatic transmission in my 2010 Camry LE are both manufactured in Japan? Was the "parts sticker" that I saw earlier which was stuck on the rear side window of my Camry correct in saying that both the engine and the transmission were both manufactured 100% in Japan? I would like to know.
I found this link in another forum that's related to the transmission problems that both the 4 and 6 cylinder Camry vehicles currently have:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/skyvisions/2008-04-24_171056_08_camry_4_cylind- - e.pdf
THANKS
The 2007 Camry used 1.25 quarts of oil, in 1400 miles of driving. The factory engine only had 40,000 miles on it. The car was tested for oil consumption. The Toyota field rep said the factory engine was .004 out of round.(cylinder). So, Toyota made good. All is well.
Back in 2007, his car was less than 1 year old and < 15000 miles. Oil consumption was a lot I think around 1 quart/1000 or 1500mile I don't remember exactly. But in this age and time there are no car which uses that much oil.
Toyota refused to fix it, kept saying it was normal.... It was apparently a defect....
He has to trade the car in early and lost money......
Toyota just a greedy company..... They lost customer this way...
How often do you change your engine oil? ----- I change the oil & filter in my V6 Camry every 2,500 miles, ---- and I do not use oil between "oil & filter changes!" ----- Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
I also use an oil additive BG - MOA that is recommended by the Toyota Selling Dealer to control sludge. ---- I have used this additive since the vehicle was purchased new. ---- This might or might not be just a money making item for the dealer, --- but on the other hand, ----- Toyota does have a history of "sludge development" on the V6 engines in the late 90's and early 2000 years. ---- They were advocating LONG oil and filter changes during those years, and this just did not work out in the real world! ---- Best regards. ------ Dwayne :shades: :confuse:
I'm about to buy a used Toyota Camry 2007 SE (V6). I've been going through a lot of posts and comments about problems with the transmission, oil leakage etc... I just want to find out if all 2007 V6 SEs have this problem. If they do, I'll pass. But if not, is there a way to determine if the one i'm considering has this problem??? the VIN number is 4T1BK46K47U505038.
One more thing, I paid for the CARFAX VIN report and up until now, there's no record of transmission problems, oil leakage, etc.
The car was manufactured 04/17/2006.
Please I need your advice so I can make a well informed decision.
Thanx a mill in advance...
I'm about to buy a used Toyota Camry 2007 SE (V6). I've been going through a lot of posts and comments about problems with the transmission, oil leakage etc... I just want to find out if all 2007 V6 SEs have this problem. If they do, I'll pass. But if not, is there a way to determine if the one i'm considering has these problems??? the VIN number is 4T1BK46K47U505038.
One more thing, I paid for the CARFAX VIN report and up until now, there's no record of transmission problems, oil leakage, etc. is this an indication that the car is one of the good ones??
The car was manufactured 04/17/2006.
Please I need your advice so I can make a well informed decision.
Thanx a mill in advance...
richard
New to the site so this may have been covered in another post. If so please direct me there.
Thanks
If using wood, cut the outside oval to mount to the holes in car frame. Cut the inside oval to allow the speaker to mount to it.
If using metal, mount to metal strips across the car frame opening, secure to the frame mounting bolts. Mount the speaker to the metal strips.
How is it that your speakers broke? I've never ever had any speakers go out on any vehicle I've ever owned. Are you absolutely sure the speakers are blown? You can measure resistance with an ohmmeter. I would suspect that you blew a fuse, or something in the radio itself.
Speaker is definitely blown. It wasn't that it just stopped working (like would be the case with a fuse), the speaker was crackling really bad and then if I turned the volume up on a high bass song it would basically kill the bass to the whole system. When I disconnected the speaker, the problem no longer occurred.
There was an adapter they sell on tacotunes.com that is supposed to be for the front door speakers but looks like it would work for the back but they say no, so will have to try the metal strip method. Thanks for the idea!
- you may hear road noise from the trunk, in the back seat area
- you may have to turn up the volume, for the same intensity of music. Speakers work by vibrating air into the passenger compartment. If there is a crack around the speaker, some of that air/air pressure, will 'leak' back into the trunk area.
Don't know how much either of those would be noticeable.
Personally, the wood version would be easier. Take the old speaker out, and lay it on a piece of plywood. Trace around the speaker, and mark the speaker mounting holes. Take your replacement speaker, lay it on the same plywood. Mark the mounting holes, and a create an oblong outline where the inside cone area would be. Stack two plywood pieces together and tack them with a small brad near outside edge. With a scroll saw, cut your two ovals thru both pieces. Drill out pilot holes where the mounting bolts go, and you're done.