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Honda Civic Sedan 2006



  • There's no need for gas, just bring up the clutch partially and stay on the brake. When you're ready to go, gas and clutch release. This is still bad for the clutch? Didn't really know that. I'm a new driver and that's how I was taught to do it.

    Either way I gather it doesn't work on the Civic anyway?
  • I imagine you must partially engage clutch & gas before releasing the handbrake? Else how do you prevent rollback?
  • Yes, you have to release the clutch and press the gas until you feel the car start to pull a little, then release the handbrake. Eventually, you'll learn how gradually release the clutch and gradually release the handbrake simultaneously. I learned on my '85 CRX. It is a skill that takes a bit to master, but you'll get many more miles out of your clutch. And with today's clutch prices, you want it to last every miles it can.
  • rl81rl81 Posts: 53
    Well there are two methods in "the book" on how to start the car in an incline:

    1. you hold the car in place with the handbrake, then when you want to start again, you'd slightly release the handbrake and at the same time release the clutch and the car will move forward without rolling backwards if you time it right.

    2. you have your right foot on the brake while you hold your car in place, the when you want to start the car again, you'll release the clutch a little bit so that it has some friction and move your right foot over to the accelerator before the car rolls back.

    Method 2 is harder to execute properly because you have to be way faster, but if you do it right, then you won't have any excessive wear on the clutch. I personally can do it without the handbrake and find method 2 more elegant, so that's what I mostly do. Executed correctly, both are fine...
  • ezpilzeezpilze Posts: 29
    Well, I hear alot of people telling you to use the handbrake for inclines. I live in SF so believe me, I know about inclines. The handbrake isn't a must, if you can get the timing right and practice a little foot work. Most race car drivers slant their foot so that the heel is on the brake while the other half of the foot is on the gas. If you can release the clutch at the right timing and control your foot properly you can go w/o incline. I still use the handbrake method cuz I havent perfected this method yet(I still hold the brake somewhat while gasing). The handbrake method is good, but be warned alot of people are saying "till you feel the car go" this works on light and moderately steep hills. Thats especially if you have a heavy car, but the civic shouldnt show much a problem here. The easier way is to watch your rpm will you release the clutch. Keep it at the 1000 mark, then release your e-brake, clutch, and gas it all at once like normal.
  • bigal3bigal3 Posts: 107
    If you are using hand-brake to stop/pause on a slope, your hand/feet coordination (to release hand-brake, engage clutch & gas pedal) timing comes quite naturally after you have prasticed for a number of times. You do not have to worry about prevent rollback.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Yes, most Honda automatics are not going to hold you on any significant incline without your foot on the brake. It has to do with the stall speed in the torque converter, and the idle speed of the engine - the one is relatively high, the other relatively low.

    As for the lockup feature in the torque converter, of course Honda uses this, as does just about every other manufacturer these days, but the lockup feature doesn't activate until the car hits cruising speed, with the throttle lightly feathered, usually only the the top one, or sometimes two, gears. I have heard that MB's new seven-spd automatic has the lockup in the top 4 gears, but again, only at a steady throttle with a light accelerator application. In any case, this feature is completely out of the picture at idle on an incline.
  • On my 06 coupe 5-speed, I'm surprised and very happy to report my second tank avg. was right at 38 mpg. (380 miles, 9.98 gal at auto pump shutoff) First tank was 33.8.

    Some of this may be due to the first dealer tank being filled less, but I don't see how, because I stop at auto shutoff. The next couple of tanks will tell more.

    My commute is about 78 miles a day, w/ about 13 miles city.

    To test for the best poissible mpg, my driving was conservative -- most in-town shifts at 2500 rpm or lower, and an effort to use 5th gear at 40 mph or more.

    But this tank included my son driving for 5-6 miles and higher-rev starts and shifting, and me doing several shifts at 4,000-5,000 rpm for the first time. Acceleration is very comparable to my former V6 Eclipse, but I don't feel bad like I'm burning a ton of gas.

    I'm pretty sure the manual doesn't address break-in, but Honda Owner Link says: "Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 kilometers). During this period: Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. Avoid hard braking. New brakes need to be broken in by moderate use for the first 200 miles (300 km)."

    Can you elaborate on the clutch being "unusual"?

    When I first test drove a sedan 5-speed, I found the clutch to be almost so light it was as if the pedal wasn't attached to anything. My kids' car is a 94 Sentra 5-speed, which lately has been requiring more clutch pressure. But I've adapted to the Honda very well and really like it.

    Regarding MT vs AT gearing, from Honda Owner Link:

    5-Speed Manual Transmission Gear Ratios
    1st: 3.143
    2nd: 1.870
    3rd: 1.235
    4th: 0.949
    5th: 0.727
    Reverse: 3.308
    Final Drive: 4.290

    Compact 5-Speed Automatic Transmission Gear Ratios (available)
    1st: 2.666
    2nd: 1.534
    3rd: 1.022
    4th: 0.721
    5th: 0.525
    Reverse: 1.957
    Final Drive: 4.440
  • Actually, I guess the CVT is not a 5-speed, but most Civics are not equipped with CVTs.

    Anyway, I've noticed many posts on which folks here have tried to specify their transmission type by saying, "I have a 5-speed." Huh? :confuse: Since both manual and automatic transmissions are 5-speeds, this is probably not the best way to describe the type of transmission you have - unless perhaps, you're referring to a previous-generation Civic. :-)
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,154
    normally that means they have a manual tranny. people with automatics just say the have the auto.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    And to make it more complicated, some of the Civic sticks have 6 speeds.
  • rhahmrhahm Posts: 1

    I test drove a 2006 EX/AT yesterday.

    I noted the shifter was 1,2,D3?,D... and I could shift between D and D?3 without pressing the button on the shifter. Does D3 eliminate the overdrive? Could someone elaborate on the features of the automatic transmission?

    My previous compacts have been MT. They did not have a manual transmission model to test drive. Might be time for a change.

  • bigal3bigal3 Posts: 107
    Based on your gear ratios for AT vs MT....when you are driving on the highway at the same speed using 5th gear (top gear), the gear ratios for MT will be 0.727 vs. AT at 0.525. respectively.

    Crusing at the same speed, the engine for MT will need to be buzzing at 38% higher RPM than AT. (i.e. if AT is 4000 RPM, MT will need to be turning at 5,520 RPM?)
  • Can you give a better idea of how bad this is? How much inefficient does this make the MT? Does this mean the MT uses 38% more fuel than the AT at that speed?
  • bigal3bigal3 Posts: 107
    From what I know, "D" is described as "Drive" auto mode which allow the automatic transmission to up-shift & down-shift by itself.

    On the other hand, "D3" is not overdrive. "D3" can be described as limiting the transmission to use the 3rd gear only. You are limiting the transmission to shift to 3rd gear. It supposed to help the driver to control the car under special conditions such as...tire spinning on the snow...or prevent the car from going too fast down a steep incline, etc.
  • Only the Si has a 6-speed manual, although I wish the EX had it also. It'd be a great way to increase performance and (possibly) economy in the EX using the same engine as the DX/LX.
  • rl81rl81 Posts: 53
    I acutally found out that the new Euro Civic with the 1.8l engine (same as in the US) has a six-speed manual. I am wondering if this is just a cost-saving method by Honda (the Euro Civic starts at 19.000 EURO) or they will introduce the 2006 (or later???) with a six-speed manual.

    Also don't forget that the iVTEC has it's highest efficiency for a pretty high band of RPM' I wouldn't make assumptions like that...the manual has a great gas mileage as well...
  • bigal3bigal3 Posts: 107
    It is a battle between economy vs performance.

    For the same car with the same engine, MT should get better gas milage on the highway than AT. Although a 38% higher gear ratio does not equate to 38% more fuel consumption, if Honda put a over-drive gear ratio in their MT (i.e. closer to that of AT), I am sure that the MT will be able to get noticeably better gas milage on the highway than AT.

    However, instead of pushing for better gas milage on the MT, Honda is tipping the balance towards high reviving performance using higher final gear ratio in their MT.
  • brupopbrupop Posts: 63
    Messages #1901 and #1912 by 02accrdv6ex gave us the following information:

    "There's been a lot of talk of Speed VS RPM for the '06 Civic so I thought I'd chime in with some calculations for the MANUAL versions. Since, with a MANUAL, there is a direct mechanical connection between the engine and the wheels (when the clutch is fully let out), RPM at a given speed can be easily calculated and is a function of: final drive ratio, top gear ratio, speed and tire diameter (which is based on tire size i.e 195/65-15, 205/55-16, etc). I will not bore with the formula; it is easy to either derive or search the net to find; there is no magic involved. The '06 Civic DX/LX/EX (both sedan and 2dr) have identical final drive and transmission ratios, the only difference is tire size. The SI has different final drive and transmission ratios as well as different tires. All the data for this was gotten right off the spec pages on the HONDANEWS.COM site.

    Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so):

    '06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
    Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 195/65-15
    RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162

    '06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP:
    Final drive: 4.294, 5th gear ratio: .727, Tires: 205/55-16
    RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174

    '06 CIVIC SI (2DR) 6SP:
    Final drive: 4.765, 6th gear ratio: .659, Tires: 215/45-17 (all season & Summer):
    RPM60: 2575 RPM70: 3005 RPM75: 3219

    And yes, though the SI has a 6SP and has a taller ratio in 6th than the others in 5th, it also has a shorter final drive which ultimately makes for even higher revs at speed than the 5 speeds do.

    Here is part 2, the AUTOMATICs. Same thing as before, same calculations but plugged in the transmission & final drive ratios for the AUTOMATIC on the DX/LX/EX (SI n/a w/ AUTO). Remember that an AUTO has a fluid coupling unless you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock mode. For our sake here, the calculations assume you are cruising and the torque-converter is in full-lock, therefore acting like a manual at that point. With that in mind:

    Anyway, here is how the data plays out (allowing for a tolerance of about +/- 100-200 RPM or so). I have included the results from the MANUAL version below the results for the AUTO for comparison:

    '06 CIVIC DX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
    Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 195/65-15
    RPM60: 1887 RPM70: 2202 RPM75: 2359 (Auto)

    RPM60: 2529 RPM70: 2951 RPM75: 3162 Manual)

    '06 CIVIC LX/EX (Sedan&2DR) 5SP Auto:
    Final drive: 4.437, 5th gear ratio: .525, Tires: 205/55-16
    RPM60: 1895 RPM70: 2211 RPM75: 2369 (Auto)

    RPM60: 2539 RPM70: 2963 RPM75: 3174 (Manual)

    For anyone who owns/has driven these, are these at least in the ballpark?
    The RPMs for the AUTO are close, but a little lower, than my '02 V6 EX Coupe (which is a 4sp auto). "

    This was such a wealth of detailed information I thought it well worth repeating. Thanks 02accrdv6ex
  • I have a 2006 LX Sedan and have noticed the driver's door is harder to close than I think it should be. With a "normal" amount of effort many times it will not completely latch. I test drove a different sedan and a coupe and noticed the same thing, but it was so minor I didn't even mention it to the salesperson. Maybe it's my imagination. Has anyone else noticed this?
This discussion has been closed.