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BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Here's a checklist for you:

    3 Series Bugaboos

    However, with those low miles I wouldn't think too many items on the list would apply, so you may be okay. What I'd do if i were you is download this list of areas of concern and show them to the shop that checks out the car for you, and let them inspect these items.

    Some are minor, like valve cover leaks, and some don't apply to the M3, like the oil separator. Others might apply to low mileage, like the BMW power steering hoses, which tend to leak and which cost an outrageous amount of money for some reason.

    Anyway, I'm not sure Consumer Reports has much of a handle on BMWs.
  • I have 49000 miles on my M-coupe. I have worn out my rear tires twice (byproduct of my right foot) but my front tires are just now coming to the wear bars. I want to get an alignment, but fear not getting the M numbers right. Does anyone know the correct specs for an M-Coupe? Also, I've called the 2 tire shops that I typically send my customers to, and they both told me to see the dealer because of special tools etc. needed to perform the alignment correctly. Is that right?!?!
  • That doesn't make sense---well I mean indeed there may be special tools, but my experience has been that many many dealers farm out their alignments to specialists anyway. I don't see why a really talented alignment shop can't align just about any vehicle. My tire shop (who specializes in alignment) does Ferraris, Porsches, Bentleys, etc, as well as Hyundais.

    A good alignment shop is not necessarily just a tire shop.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    BMW's alignment specs assume a certain weight in the passenger seat and the trunk. Some shops won't align them because they don't have any way to put the specified weights in the car. My indie tech uses a little Mom & Pop shop located in the back of an old industrial park. They don't charge much and they do absolutely first rate work.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Oh that is SO German. :P
  • phudphud Posts: 4
    Hi M3 owners,
    I found a set of M6 wheel & tire that i'm going to take a look in this weekend & intended to buy it for my 04-M3. The bolt pattern is the same so it will fit. But does anyone know is there anything wrong to use M6 wheel on a M3, because the wheel offset may be different from one another?
    Any insight from your past experience or comment is most welcome

    The M6 wheels look very sporty & the tires are still in great condition. The price is very reasonable & i really like to have them

    Thanks
  • gmonkiesgmonkies Posts: 35
    Hi,

    I thought I have a main seal leak but luckily it was only the rubber 0-ring on oil pressure regulator on the side of the block. Does anyone know how often does that happen?

    Also, the bentley manual said that the bolt holding the metal plate for structure support under the engine area must be replaced every time, after removal. I order new bolts from BMW but using the old one until I get it. I torqued the old bolt back to spec and the car seems to be driving okay. Should I still change it when I get the new bolt or just save it till the next time I have to remove the metal plate again?

    One last thing is I replaced my window regulator and adjust the window alignment to be the same as the other side. Everything works fine except if the window goes up automatically, it will will comes down 1/3 of the way after getting to the top. I thought it was cause by the window going up too high. But when I adjust the window alignment so it does not reach the very top, it still does the same thing. Is there anything that I am suppose to rest to solve this minor problem?

    Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    I order new bolts from BMW but using the old one until I get it. I torqued the old bolt back to spec and the car seems to be driving okay. Should I still change it when I get the new bolt or just save it till the next time I have to remove the metal plate again?

    I'd change it.

    . But when I adjust the window alignment so it does not reach the very top, it still does the same thing. Is there anything that I am suppose to rest to solve this minor problem?

    Try this:

    Press the window down button. When the window is down - hold it down for 20 seconds. Then press the window up button (with the door closed) - and hold it up for 20 seconds once it's all the way up.

    These two steps teach the window the normal down and up positions. They're needed for auto-down/up and to keep the window from going too far up into the channel. There is a magnetic switch in the motor assembly that is adjusted by doing this.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • david112david112 Posts: 4
    I'm considering an M3 Convertible and it will be my all-year round car. I drive about 23 miles each way from the suburbs to the city. Assuming I get good winter tires (and feel free to recommend any 18 inchers you feel are good), will this work or will I be white-knuckled all winter?
    I appreciate your thoughts - David
  • kyfdx@Edmundskyfdx@Edmunds Posts: 25,970
    I don't know why an M3 would be any different on winter tires than any other 3-series, other than a slightly lower ground clearance. Is this a new M3 with the folding hardtop?

    Winter tires are the key, and, if they fit, I'd recommend 17" winters on dedicated wheels.. My wife drove an '05 330i with soft-top through three Cincinnati winters with no problem, and she really isn't much of a winter driver... and, we have a lot hillier terrain here, than in Chicago... We've used Goodyear Eagle Ultra-Grip and Dunlop WinterSports... both in 17" get-flats....

    Don't really know much about run-flats, though, if you are going that direction.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    Moderator - Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • lostit3lostit3 Posts: 2
    I have an 2005 M3 Convertible without winter tires and I don't bother taking it out when there is snow on the ground. 19 inch performance tires with that much power and rear wheel drive is not ideal for snow. I'm not sure how much snow tires will work but if you are counting on this car to be your everyday commuter during the winter in Chicago...I'd be a bit concerned. And I'd say I'm a pretty decent driver in snowy conditions since I grew up in Boston.
  • gmonkiesgmonkies Posts: 35
    Thanks for the advice but I tried what you said with the window and it still did not work. Any other suggestions? :confuse:
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    Check out this page- starting at post #19.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • gmonkiesgmonkies Posts: 35
    Thanks. I have the bentley manual and saw that section before and adjust the window according to the direction. I will try to repeat the steps over again from beginning to end and see what happens.
  • Hello!
    I have a 2002 BMW M3 with SMG that I just bought from a friend. It has over
    100k on it. I love this car. But here is the problem. In a manual transmission
    when you don't depress the clutch far enough and you press down on the gas
    pedal the car will race some before it goes into gear. This is what the SMG
    appears to be doing. I am hoping that maybe it just needs and adjustment or
    some lubrication or something small. Is this a common problem? Is it a big
    problem? Can you help?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    You really need to take the car to a good BMW dealer or indie BMW tech. It could be something simple and it could be something pricey- but you need to have it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing. I hope you haven't been using just the throttle to hold the car on hills; that will kill an SMG clutch in no time...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • sal4eversal4ever Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have the same problem on my m3 2003. Would you please tell me what is the part that you have changed ( dealer's part#? or the rubber O-ring). I have seen the slotted screw or plug on the side of the engine block (passenger side) where the oil leaking from. I called the BMW dealer in my area and they cannot see any part in this location!!!. Thanks for your time.
  • gmonkiesgmonkies Posts: 35
    That is the oil pressure regulator on the passenger side of the block. It requires a flat short head to remove. It's kinda tight so you will need a flex wrench with a flat head socket. Becarefull not to strip the grove on the regulator. If you can't get it off then you will have no choice but to take the exhaust manifold off for more room.

    In any case, my friend just gave me another rubber O-ring from his O-ring box, no BMW parts required unless you want to pay the dealer extra $ for the same O-ring that you can get from the parts store. Feel free to let me know if you need anymore help.
  • gmonkiesgmonkies Posts: 35
    I was driving on Cruise Control and suddenly the motor choked for a sec. 15 minutes later, check engine light came on and when I got off the highway, the motor was running rough like a miss fire. Shut the car off and the check engine went away but still runs rougher than normal and lost of power.

    It has 84K on it right now, not sure if the spark plug was changed before I bought it. Hopefully it just needs a new plug.

    In any case, the bentley manual does not show the m3 set up for changing spark plug. It does not have a bolt that holds down the individual ignition coil like the other 3 series.
    After I separate the ignition wire harness wire from the ignition coil, does the coil just pull up/out? The coil is pretty tight in there, not sure if there's anything else I need to do or just man handle it. Hopefully once I fix replace the plugs, it will stop miss firing and running rough :-(

    If it was my honda, I'll just yank it out but always more fearful when it comes to working on the bimmer.

    Please Advice!!!
  • Issue:

    Every morning steering right to back out or steering sharp right moving forward, there is a grinding metal noise coming from the rear. An example of the noise would be as if one was to move a very heavy couch with four wooden legs a very short distance over concrete floors. Weird example but that is the first thing that pops in my mind. Or another example would be as if the wheel was about to fall off the axle and the titled wheel is grinding against the axle.

    It only happens with SHARP right turns. But once the car is warmed up, the noise does not happen again.

    Any ideas why the noise? solutions?

    I thought it was a lack of oil for the slip differential, but the dealer changed it out and still makes the noise, only in the morning.

    Thanks for any feedback

    -john
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