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Porsche 911

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Just remember you guys, to bring your babies to Hans and Dieter every Spring and every Fall for their service and checkups. Do that and the cars will run forever. If you put $100/$125 a month into routine maintenance you are way ahead in the long run.

    And never let some monkey touch your car. I've seen quite a few botched up Porsches done by people who didn't know what they were doing, and it wasn't pretty.

    MODERATOR

  • asi12asi12 Posts: 46
    Thanks Habitat.
    Any suggestions what are good interior color combination with mid night blue or red exterior colors?

    I have seen used convertibles few weeks ago and there were few and now inventory is increasing as fall and winter is approaching. Can one expect 10K discount on convertibles from now and then in north east in January when there is 1 foot of snow fall? By the way I think, economy is still very soft so I don't see any rush to buy right now.

    Lets say if someone is buying a brand new Porsche 911, standard warranty is 4 years what is the maximum extended warranty one can get? Is it like 8 years/100K miles or even one can go longer than that? Is there any difference in terms of maximum extended warranty on new vs certified/used Porsche?

    In general who is the provider of extended warranty, Porsche or third party? Is it bumper to bumper warranty or depends?

    Is there any difference for the extended warranty purchased at the time of initial purchase or with used pre-owned certified Porsche? Is this extended warranty is transferable to new owner if you decide to sell it later on?

    Sorry for lots of questions.
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    Can one expect 10K discount on convertibles from now and then in north east in January when there is 1 foot of snow fall?

    Convertible discounts? Much better chance of that during the winter for sure. The only problem may be supply. I don't know about all the other dealers, but our dealership is huge and we have only about 7 left.

    Warranty - Standard warranty is 4 yrs / 50,000 miles. Porsche recently came out with a new program where the certified warranty is IDENTICAL to the new. That pushes your warranty out to 6 yrs or 100,000 miles from the in date service. Cost is $1,990. Phenomenal warranty program. There are other programs in place, but the cost of them is quite high. I'm not sure the furthest that you can go out, but my educated guess is probably 8 years or 100,000.

    Porsche is the backer for all the warranties that we sell at our dealership. It is bumper to bumper.

    Is there any difference for the extended warranty purchased at the time of initial purchase or with use pre-owned certified Porsche?

    I would call your local Porsche dealer and talk with the finance manager. He would probably run you a quote on both and tell you all the differences. In short, yes they are different.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Moo answered most of your questions better than I could have. As for interior colors, mine is black and that, IMO, is safe and looks good with any exterior. I've seen a few red, green and white exteriors with tan interiors, some look good, some not so good. There was also a "stone grey", with a matching top, at the same time I bought mine. That looked pretty good, but I'd suggest you see anything other than black in person before making your own decision.
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    The only addition I would add on is that the Grey interior is a tough sell and the grey top is virtually unsellable. I would stay away from those combinations as best as you can.
  • asi12asi12 Posts: 46
    Thanks habitat1 and madmanmoo

    How does sand beige interior (seats and dash board) with red and blue exterior. I have seen in the pictures which looks ok. I think beige works well with black exterior but I need to see in person.

    Does top color same as exterior hurt its value? Like blue top on blue exterior and sand beige interior?

    Habitat1
    From your post I gathered your Porsche is rear wheel drive. Do you drive in winter or on icy roads? I heard most rear wheel drive cars like BMW are not good to drive in these conditions. How is your experience?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    Sand interior will be fine with the colors that you mentioned.

    Top color definitely can hurt value. Gray top never works. Blue top rarely. Brown top extremely rarely. Black top = Good.

    Asi, all our sports cars are rear wheel drive.

    Good luck.
  • asi12asi12 Posts: 46
    Thanks Moo,

    What does C4 and C4S refer to? I thought it is 4WD/AWD?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Correct, the "4" denotes AWD.

    However, regarding "icy" roads, forget a 911 period, unless you also want to buy an extra set of rims and snow tires. The high performance tires that come standard on a 911 are NOT good in snow and ice, even with the AWD versions.
  • I just purchased a 1998 Porsche 928S-4 1,200 miles away from my home. It seemed to drive home okay, but in neutral it will not rev above 3,000 rpm. After that, the engine just bogs and misses. Now, it won't hardly idle. The timing belt was changed 8,000 miles ago. Help. Thanks for any advice. stingraysusan@hotmail.com
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    You mean 1988, yes?

    There's no way to diagnose this from this distance. For one thing you don't have the normal OBD-II diagnostics. These are very complex cars and they need a specialist. Hopefully something simple like a tune-up or an ornery injector. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area I can send you to 928 specialists. Not too many Porsche shops even know how to work on them. Don't let anyone touch it who doesn't absolutely know what they are doing! Are you familiar with these cars and what they cost to maintain? Considerably more than a 911, so keep a close eye on repair estimates, parts prices, etc. Don't just hand over the car.

    MODERATOR

  • I am looking for a site that shows the colors offered in 1982 with no luck. Actually I am a 944 owner, they had the same options that year if I am not mistaken. The color that I would like to paint the car is either Mauritius Blue L Y5A or Metallic Light Blue L M5Z, cannot find what the color actually looks like. Can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    These guys might be able to dig something up for you:

    COLOR CHIPS

    MODERATOR

  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Try www.adelgigs.com/911colours.shtml or google simon's porsche 911sc site and click on paint colors. Good luck.

    Earl
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Thanks for that link. Good info.

    MODERATOR

  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Glad to be of service.

    Have a question regarding market values of 911sc's (1978 to '83) vs.the '87-89 911's with the bigger and better trans and clutch and bigger engine. We kinda talked about this before when I was more concerned with actual prices. Let's assume both are in excellent condition inside and out and both have, say 100,000 miles. Would a person be crazy to pay as much for a 1979 sc as a '88 or '89 911, all else being the same? You are getting a 9 year older car with a smaller engine and inferior trans and clutch, not to mention the chain tensioner and air box problems. On the other hand, could an argument be made that the sc is a different car with different handling (maybe a little quicker at the start because it's lighter) and the 9 extra years just means that it will be a classic sooner than the '87-'89's?. If there are people that prefer sc's over the rest of the 1980's then I assume that would justify similar pricing, or maybe, not. I'm just trying to get a handle on how the market place differentiates between the porsches from 1978 to 1989. I hope you or someone has an opinion about all of this. I will consider, "Just buy the newest porsche you can afford", a cop out answer.

    Earl
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,676
    In similar condition, the 87-89 Carerras are worth more than the SCs. Most SCs in excellent condition probably already have the updated airbox and possibly the tensioner. I can tell you from experience the clutch and transmission are not buttery smooth on the pre '87 cars. I find them kind of notchy, stiff, and even a little clunky if your timing is off a little when you shift. If you can find an 87-89 car, that is the car to buy IMHO.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    The Carreras are worth more and yes you'd be crazy to pay Carrera money for an SC.

    Basically, I feel pretty safe in saying that after 1973, Porsche 911s behave like used cars in the marketplace, not like classics---that is, the older they are the LESS they are worth, and the newer, the more. This seems to also hold for 944, 928, 914, etc etc.

    Will this change? No sign of it yet. Maybe in another 10-20 years?

    MODERATOR

  • Is there any information available regarding 911 performance during crashing testing? Why does it seem like there is no crash test data either from Europe or the US?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    There are no published crash tests. That's why you can't find them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    That's one area where I would give Porsche the benefit of the doubt and not worry.

    MODERATOR

  • I store my 911 every year. This is what I do (after extensive research and asking the dealer). Inflate tires to 50psi; clean car thoroughly in and out (make sure its dry before you put it away. I usually drive it around for an hour and get it nice and hot and get the water out of everywhere). I fill the gas tank and then put Stabilizer in the fuel tank. I connect car to a porsche trickle charger. (some say dont lock the car since that will engage the alarm and that drains the battery - i think thats unnecessary. I also put a leather treatment on the seats to keep them moist so as not to crack from the cold (im in canada, my garage gets pretty cold and dry). I close all the vents to keep the cold air out of the cabin - this helps with keeping interior leather moist. I also use a porsche cover on the car to protect from salt or scratches when moving things in and out of garage. Oh and Ive been told you shouldnt leave it in gear. The best thing to do is to put a brick under the tires and dont engage the emerg brake or leave it in gear. You can use what you want from this but this is the "full storage list" i received. I do it all except I lock the car. There are also 2 schools of thought. Start the car once in a while to get the oil hot etc. and the more popular one is to not start the car until spring at all. The idea is that some experts say that since the car is cold and drained of oil the cold start is very harsh on the car and should be avoided. I never start the car until spring. Its always worked well for me on all 3 of my porsches.
    Then again, my friend does absolutely nothing except put a cover on the car and his runs fine. I prefer to do the whole ritual. Makes it seem so special to me when I put it away. My wife thinks Im nuts about the car and the procedure..which makes me think I must be right...
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    I wish you were trading in your vehicles at my dealership. They must be immaculate with that kind of care.

    Plus, the ritual is pretty cool. :)
  • which handles better, the 993 c4 or the (02-04) 996 c2 with psm? in particular i am interested in which is less likely to fish tail, or have its rear end slide out of my control during tight turns? i have an SC that has gotten away from me a few times and makes me worry when i push it.
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Regarding Porsche pricing after 1973, I'm starting to see what you mean about the older they are the less they are worth. There are a lot of rust bucket 911 T's out there for $25,000 and up. I've found that poor condition or high mileage after 1973 really makes the price drop, too. I believe the T's were over in 1973. I have heard to stay away from the years 1974 to 1977. I don't know why or if this is true. The sc's began in 1978 to 1983. Then you had that period from 1984 to 1986 where the engine went from 3.0 to 3.2, but the trans and clutch did not improve until 1987-1989. I've driven the 3.0 911 SC and the '87 911 3.2 with the heavier (but improved) trans and clutch. It could have been my imagination, but I thought the SC with the smaller engine was quicker than the heavier '87 with the bigger engine. Back to the marketplace, I don't look at the '87 to '89's as being a better car than the SC's (as the marketplace does). To me, they are two different Porsches with different feels. Another question, I've heard the post !973 Porsches will not appreciate much in the near future because there were so many shipped to North America. But, when I look at the production numbers of around 2 to 3,000 a year, that doesn't seem like a lot of cars to me. The only thing I can think of is that the marketplace for older Porsches is also proportionately smaller.
    Earl
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Don't know about the C4, but that PSM on the C2 is something special. Just got back from the Porsche high performance driving school in Alabama. We tried the skid pad with and without PSM and there was a big difference. On the track (2.4 miles with 14 turns and a 350 ft elevation difference) no oversteer at 50+ in the turns.We had some tight turns, but perhaps not as tight as you are talking about. These were 2008 911's and 911 S's. The 911's we used on the track had the PSM button fixed so you couldn't turn if off. By the way, I won the raffle, and got to take a hot lap in a GT3 with the race car driver Cass Whithead at the wheel. The G forces were unbelievable. The thing that impressed me most about the 911 was the breaking. We would be at 110 to 120 (there are so many turns, the straightaways are too short to go any faster) up to the last second, then hard hard breaking just before the turn. Amazing how fast these cars can stop in such a short distance. My first time on the track.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Here's a fun video of a Carrera GT from one of our member's blog:

    Yes You Can Drift a Carrera GT

    MODERATOR

  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Interesting web site. I will be checking it out. I looked at the video before reading the caption and thought he must have lifted off on the accelerator - too wide of turn for oversteer to happen at that speed. I had something just like that when it started to rain cats and dogs on the track in Alabama. The lead instructor (four to a group single file-you only get to pass in the master course) would not slow down on the straightaways. I hit a puddle going 115 mph and the rear end went all over the place. Locked in on the steering wheel and got lucky - the car stayed straight - very scary. They told us to break hard before the turn, slowly release the brakes during the first half of the turn then slowly all the way down on the accelerator coming out of the turn, petal to the metal until the next turn. They had cones to show us when to break, the apex, etc. The instructor in the lead was also on a walkie talkie. It was fun. I was sure the rear end would come out, but it didn't. Lifting off the accelerator or hitting the brakes in a turn throws the weight of the car to the front, when you want the weight on the rear tires coming out of the turn. They hammered that into us during the course. It's great having the engine ( weight) in the rear as long as you don't make a mistake. Hear's something you may not have heard. In rain, narrow tires are safer than wide tires. Weight per sq. in. of tire on the road is greater with narrower tires. In the rain, the 911 S's, with the wider tires, had to slow down more than the base 911's to stay on the track. I should have gotten into racing 40 years ago. On the other hand, maybe not. I like being old.
    Earl
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    That's right.....slow in, fast out...

    Lifting off abruptly in a hot turn is a good way to spin any car around.

    I know guys 70 years old who are vintage racing. Go for it.

    MODERATOR

  • It has a been a while since I last posted. In any case, for all you current and future Porsche owners. I have five vehicles, three of which are Porsche's. A 996 2002 C4 Conv, 2006 Cayenne Turbo and a 2007 997S Conv. My 996 has had past issues with oil leaks, not much in volume but a concern nevertheless especially because of RMS issues.
    About a year and a half ago I noticed, for the first time, a few drops of oil on the floor of my garage and brought the car to the dealer. They replaced the RMS at my cost, about $1800.00. Six months later, again the same oil leak, again the dealer replaced the RMS this time at their cost. Four months ago, again I noticed drops of oil and promptly brought the car back. This is where the story gets very interesting.
    The dealership calls me and tells me that it's not a RMS problem but a problem in the casting of the metal and thus the engine is unable to be sealed 100%. The solution, a brand new engine courtesy of Porsche. Keep in mind, the car is out of warranty and has 45k miles. You can imagine my delightful surprise. The only thing I have to pay is 25% of the dealer cost of the engine. Yesterday I receive another call and the dealer tells me he has great news and possibly not so great news. Let's start with the great news, they uncrated the engine and lo and behold they discovered a 3.8 high output engine. Clearly, not the original 996 but an engine for the 997S! The mechanic is convinced its an x51. I am not so sure but in any case the worst case scenario I have a 355 hp engine vs the original 320 hp. The bad news, he recommended I replace the original clutch with a stronger unit to withstand the increased power. Let me tell you, this is not bad news for me since I can appreciate the cost of an additional $900.00 for the parts, labor N/C since the unit is already disassembled and thus re-assembly of the clutch is part of the engine work.
    I must admit, when I finally digested the news I began to have doubts about my good fortune and thus decided to drive, unannounced, the 320 miles round trip to verify with my own eyes. Sure enough, I get to the dealership and there are the two engines, practically, side by side. My fears and doubts are quickly put to rest.
    Funny, these past couple of months I have entertained the thought of adding an F430 to my family, but I can without a doubt state that this thought has been completely eliminated from my mind and thus a 911 Turbo is the works.
    What can I say, Porsche,in my opinion, is in a class of its own.
    Thank You Porsche!
    I will keep this forum posted. :shades:
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