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Just left St. Clair Square. The fact that there is a decent supply of TDI's is offset to an extent by the fact that the people who desire these cars actually have the income and credit score to buy them. The dealers know this from experience in putting together deals. They are prepared to wait you out because msrp deals are generally acceptable to this group of shoppers. They really really want one. The deals will get better only if this group has an attitude adjustment. No disrespect to all you TDI junkies. The car has lots of appeal but not financially. Of course, few vehicles have both. Enjoy !
That being said, credit score/attitude permit waiting on the left coast also,,,,,,,,,,
Plus the $1300 tax credit is supposed to last until the end of 2010......
best, ez....
Thanks for the feedback.
I had been driving for 40+ years with a stick/manual and would prefer it to an automatic, but that is a personal preference. Sometimes I would drive an automatic but never had the chance to directly compare durability, reliability or longevity. I have never had problems with manual transmission, which by itself is low-maintenance (no transmission fluid to replenish,etc.but that could be because I was just lucky.
I drove both Japanese (Toyota, Datsun, Nissan) and German (Audi, BMW, VW) cars, and while I prefer the Germans, I don't think they have any significant advantage over the Japanese makes in those terms.
I drove my second Audi for 11 years (110K miles+) and my one and only Nissan for 12 years (120K miles+) without any problem with their manual transmissions. Your experience may not be similar, as these are mechanical things that can break for any reason.
Good luck in your search. You may also want to consult an automative engineer for a better idea. Me, I don't care. I buy what I like to drive.
that said, im not really sure if a TDI is a good choice. Diesel prices seem to be more erratic than gasoline. Maybe i'll go with a wolfsburg.
Or is the credit lost?
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Automatic transmissions are among the most problematic components of any vehicle, regardless of the origin. Both Honda and Toyota had massive recalls on two of their best selling cars because of problems with their automatic transmissions.
If you know how to drive a manual properly, and change your gear oil appropriately (I use redline), you should easily be able to go 100,000+ miles with no other maintenance or repair costs with a manual.
Cheers
Don
This is my first time in these forums and have been reading for a couple hours, so i have couple questions.
1) what was your invoice, chebella for your deal; did you find it out?
2) i read earlier that somoene said to offer 1K below invoice? I know they got holdback (3%, which they usually dont like to touch, per edmunds) and other mfg to dealer incentives, credits, etc, but am i leaving money on the table based on what i put in here?
Tdi's being what they are, one can still get a good, fair deal...but 1K below may be too much to expect?
Thanks in advance y'all,
md
So...how can one know if we're still within those 60,000 and can get the full credit??
PS
I think you got a great deal. Anything under invoice, I like it.
And, speaking of #'s, I think I bagged a great deal! In addition to the deal I outlined below, 533 under invoice, I went to see a truly nice sales guy I met at first big VW dealer I visited, and to test drive the manual. They, as usual ask "what will it take to make a deal?" Well, since I was not going to buy from them, I asked for "what kind of deal would make me not be able to walk away?", so I asked for a model with sunroof at no charge.
That would mean, $1,000 higher MSRP, for nothing more! To make a long story short, they gave it to me for $250 more, PLUS free splash guards put on...and they tint windows themselves free!
#'s? MSRP 24,939. Sales price: 22,750. Yes, that's ~2200 below MSRP!
Time to buy, y'all...if you do your research and stay nice no matter what. :-)
I pick her up tomorrow. Deal is in writing. I did get to deal with 2 awesome people there that will get a nice letter from me...
Is this a good deal?
@ chebella - i will try those heated seats wen it gets "cold", like in the...50's? LOL I'm in Florida, so "cold" is relative...but we do have some days in the 30's then back to 60-80's...but I'm sure I'll drive this baby up north sometime...Glad you're enjoying your TDI...I'm looking forward to finding out what everyone raves about on here first hand :shades:
Just closed on a lease for a 2009 Jetta TDI. Here is the info:
Manual Transmission
Graphite Blue Metallic
Art Grey Int
Sunroof
Ipod
Mats
Term: 36 months
Miles:15k per year
MSRP: 24,038
Price Paid: 22,500
Taxes and Fees: 1905
Total: 24,413
Residual: 59
Money Factor: .003
No money down, no security, no first months payment: 400 per month.
I found this site really helpful when negotiating, thanks everyone!
as long as the economy is slow and oil prices are low, you'll be sure to get a good deal on an oil burning jetta. Our local dealer has many sitting on the lot.
I paid below invoice, and it did not have anything added but the destination charge. Unless you let them know that you are certain of the price of the vehicle and no extra fees, they will sing any tune saying those costs have to be so. No way.
I recommend looking up the invoice price on edmunds.com and then also read up on tricks and "confessions of a car salesman", also on here. One part explains what fees you pay...and which are not legit.
In the end, I paid just below 1,000 below invoice...a true invoice.
As the other person posted, they have them on the lot, and they way things are, and nso few buying and so many panicking, do your homework, be sure of what you know, shop more than one dealer against another, and see who gives you best internet price, then push them a couple times more and you're sure to get a good deal. Just be firm but courteous the whole time...we're only out to get a fair deal and not get overcharged...at the end of the deal, they are still people like us with families and need to make a living...and always be nice. :shades:
Edmunds: MSRP $25458
Invoice $23986
TMV $25727
Thus $1384 under MSRP, and $88 over invoice.
Consumer Reports has this deal with 4% mark up at $54 over their bottom line price. Does this look like a good deal?
That is not bad. If you plan to use that dealer for all your service it would be best not to beat them down to nothing. You might get them to throw in oil changes during the warranty period. I am expecting diesel to come down closer to gas prices this year and the diesels will again bring a premium price. Good time to buy now.
platinum gray
sunroof
rear/side airbags
mats package
ipod adapter
24993 price + 695 acquisition fee= 25668 gross cap cost
736 paid at closing
441 monthly payments
smell like a fair deal? happy new year
If your gross cap cost was 25668 and you paid 736, that makes your adjusted cap cost 24932.
The VW sheet has the residual in a 36-mo lease at 59% at 15K; at 12K = +2 = 61% (nice high residual) of the MSRP. The 24,993 sounds like the sticker price, before the 650 destination fee. So, I'll assume that was your MSRP and so the residual value is .61 x the 24993= 15,245.73.
Subtract the residual from the net/adjusted cap cost to get your Depreciation, which is what you pay in a lease. So, 24932-15,245.73 = 9,686.27 (nice low value)
Now, you do not tell us your "money factor" or percentage rate. They are not the same. Regardless, your contract has to spell out the "Rent Charges" (and usually does not spell out the APR or Money Factor) which is how much they charge for financing those 9,686.27 over the 36 months. So, that is added to what gets divided by 36.
A money factor has to be multiplied by 2400 to get the real APR. So, 6% APR / 2400 = a money factor of .0025.
Since your payments are 441 (including tax), I'll assume a total financed of 441 x 36=15,876. I have no clue what your tax is, so I'll just leave it out for now.
So, taking 15,876 minus your 9,687 (rounded up) = about $6,189 (ouch) in rent charges and tax... this amount seems high...let's convert that and see what it turns out in interest rate:
Money Factor (trust me, this formula is right: check LeaseGuide.com) = Lease Charge/((net cap cost + residual) x term of 36) = 5689/(24932+9687)x36 = 6189/34619x36=0.0049659
Multiply that by 2400 is your APR = 11.918 % (ouch)...which is high...and explains the high "Rent Charge" or amount added to the depreciation of 9687.
As a very rough reference, my last vehicle i leased a Camry for 66 mo's ( I should have never leased anywhere near that long-it was a rape, really, but i was clueless) and the Rent charges over 66 months was only 3008. I paid wayy too much depreciation, another no-no).
So, if your real percent rate had been 6% (roughly half), divided by 2400 = a Money Factor of .0025. Using that gives:
Rent Charges = .0025 x (24932+9687) x 36 = 3,115.71. That's more like it.That would have made your payments 9687+3116/36= 12803/36 = 355.63 per month.....
Again, this does not include taxes, so I know I am off...but 3116 is a lot better than 6189. Sorry to say, but they added about $3073 just in this aspect.
Another place to save could have been in the Sales Price. You essentially paid sticker price. Per edmunds, the invoice price was around 23,551. (about 1500 bucks between sticker and invoice) I don't know what the situation in your area, but doing your homework and knowing the numbers on this car allows the buyer to be firm on paying way below sticker, regardless of their assertions. 500 over invoice is not an uncommon "internet" deal if you show them your edmunds numbers. If they have TDI's on the lot, there's no need to pay sticker, regardless of their assertions.
There are others more savvy than me here, but what I learned I learned primarily on leasguide.com. I highly recommend you read through it and its free, even without buying the lease Kit. I was a totally different buyer this time around, and they knew it. I ended up with a sweet deal on a purchase (which I posted earlier), but the sales price gets negotiated the same way, lease or buy. (Don't let them tell you different). The lease just works as outlined above, where you pay only the depreciation, plus the rentcharges, computed as above. That's where they get you if they can...btw, the 61% residual is great, because it means a lower depreciation for you...but rent charges is the other variable that can vary, plus of course, the sales price.
Sorry to not be able to say better...but it is what it is...minus the tax difference of course...
we paid the first month's lease payment at close so there are 35months remaining on the lease.
736 @ closing = 441 (lease payment #1) + 237 registration fee + 58 CA Tire fee
Gross Cap Cost 25688
Adjusted Cap 25688
Residual Value 15037
Depreciation 10650
Rent Charge 4002
Base lease 407
Lease tax 34
the dealer indicated that on the TDI, VW requires them to use a standard residual value and money factor. I believe the money factor is .00312. the rate is higher than their other models as the TDI is in hi demand right now.
hope this clarifies the math. thanks again for any input.
I prefer beating the dealer down below invoice and paying cash or borrowing from my Credit Union. I hate giving big bucks to the bank when they are paying little or nothing for that money.
Depreciation + finance + tax = lease payment
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LeasingGuide.com explains it pretty well for us newbies... :shades:
Prices Paid for 09 Jetta TDI
It seems most people have been paying MSRP for the TDI Jetta, but over the last few months, people were reporting paying under MSRP, so the market may be improving.
Dealer selling TDI Sportwagens for $600 over dealer invoice
Same Dealer offering TDI sedans for $300 over dealer invoice
I went to a dealer this weekend to look at the Sportwagen. The dealer told me that VW is only bringing in 4,500 TDI Sportwagens this year so there are not that many available.