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Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • nyguy1nyguy1 Posts: 23
    I just drove home my second new Cobalt. The first was a 2005 which now has almost 30K miles and has given us NO trouble. So we just got a second one for my daughter, a 2007 Cobalt with NO options. Price after rebate but before T,T, and L was $10,990! We also has some GM rebate money to lower the price further but I realize everyone does not have that option. My dealer was easy to work with and very helpful. I hope everyone has such a good experience on a car that has been great for us.
  • smogdungsmogdung Posts: 349
    exzur2071 ...wow, what was the sticker price? Sounds like a good deal...???
  • smogdungsmogdung Posts: 349
    The brand new Toyota 2001 RAV4 was a nightmare, $6K worth of waranty work. The brand new 1995 Sunfire GT that I bought my son on his 16th birthday & the brand new 2000 Z24 Cav that I bought my daughter on her 16th birthday have never been back to the shop!!! They are still driving both of them!!!
  • $16,976 is what I paid for, not $17,976. Sorry for my mistake. Smogdung, the sticker was $21,240. David Chevrolet discount was $2,264 and the rebate was two $750s and one $500 or 4.9% financing.

    It's a brand new yellow 2006 Cobalt SS Supercharged. The interior is leather, black with yellow inserts. The only option is the sunroof.
  • smogdungsmogdung Posts: 349
    I think ya stold that thing from GM! I've used close to $10K in GM card rebates on top of other rebates/ negotiations with GM....at the start of the program you could accumulate $1K / year ..& accumulate up to $7K instead of the $3.5 current max. The first time I used it when I ordered my son's Sunfire GT (there were none yet in KC area), I even used the card to put down $2K at the dealership to order it (use of card at dealership doubled % rebate to 10%), they were so confused that by the time the car arrived the rebate from the down payment was available to put down on the purchase!

    What kind of MPG you get with the 2.0L Supercharged engine?
    You ever drive just normal?
  • On top of all the discounts, the $2,264, two $750s and one $500 mention on my other post, was $986 GM Master card rebate.

    It has been snowing with temperature below freezing point here in the Buffalo area since I got the car last January 31st.

    The car comes with Pirelli Pzero summer tires which is not good on the snow.

    I have just driven the car for 51 miles.
  • smogdungsmogdung Posts: 349
    Well let us know after you get some miles on it...congrats!
  • I am going to be trading in my truck. Another dealer has already offered me a trade in value of 12,500. Assuming I get the same at a Chevy dealership what should be my target price for a 2007 Cobalt LT Coupe, or a 2007 LS Coupe (If I get the LS I would probably add a feature or two). Automatic btw. I really would like to make it out of the dealership paying less than $2000 on top of my 12,500 trade in value, OTD. I've never had this high of a trade in value before...is this more or less leverage for me? Thanks.
  • If I were you, I would go to several dealers, negotiate a rock bottom price with no trade-in. Then get your trade into the picture.

    Early in Novewmber, I went to a Vokswagen dealer to negotiate a price for a Volks Rabbit with my 2001 Aztek as the trade. The offer was $3,000.

    When I was negotiating the price of my Cobalt SS supercharged in the last week of January, David Chevy Pontiac in Nigara Falls, NY offerd me $6,500 for the same car the Volks people want for 3,000 bucks.

    However, I decided to keep the Aztek, because the car has served me very well in foul and lousy winter weather here in the Buffalo region.

    Good Luck.
  • smogdungsmogdung Posts: 349
    EXZUR2071, If you're just gonna let that car sit there most of the time....loan it to me for a while & I'll break it in for ya!
  • The weather has started to get better now. Smogdung, could you please tell me the proper way of breaking in a new car.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    It's best to drive conservatively for the first few hundred miles, and to avoid running the engine at constant speeds for extended periods. Don't jump on the Interstate and set the cruise control on 65 for the next 300 miles, and don't run any drag races until the engine and trans are properly broken in. I usually try to change the oil and filter at between 800 and 1000 miles, then just drive normally from there.
    I've been doing it this way for over 30 years, and haven't had one let me down yet...
  • exzur2071exzur2071 Posts: 43
    grosloup, I am following your advice. So far the car is doing pretty good. Is it not too early to change the oil and filter between 800 and 1000 miles?

    Thanks.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Depending on your driving. Highway or city? Lots of city driving is worst on a break-in oil (or any oil as a matter of fact). I once went up to 2000 milles before my first oil change and everything went fine. What happens is that your engine is new, every bits and pieces got to get oiled and running good. If you could see all the small metal fragments in your break-in oil, you'd be surprised. All that metal friction that's going on in your motor cleans the debris off all metal parts. It's the same as if the oil was rinsing our motor. I once screened my break-in oil using a paper towel and could see small and short (thin as hair) pieces of metal. Newer models are not as worst as in the 70' and 80's.
  • eegadeegad Posts: 2
    Bought a black 2007 Cobalt LS Sedan, with just auto transmission and the body side moldings as options on it.

    Sticker was $14700. Dealer came down to $14100 on it. Minus roughly $2100 on my original GM card. Minus the $1000 Chevy spring cashback savings here in NJ. Minus $500 more GM cash back.

    With tax/title/registration, the price out the door was $11554.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Is GM really the one that needs to wake up? The new GM warranty 5 yrs/100,000 miles is the best warranty in the industry. The Hyundai 10 year powertrain warranty is only good for the original buyer or immediate family member. It is not transferable to anyone else so a Hyundai owner needs to keep it 10 years for the warranty to stay in effect. This was part of the marketing Hyundai figured would work. Leave out the fine print details because who keeps a car that long any ways they figured, thus after they sell it it is no longer their responsibility. A lot of people think the Suzuki 7 year warranty is the best also.

    Corolla better MPG you say. Well in general it may very well be, especially on paper. In July's 2006 Car & Driver they tested a bunch of compacts including the Cobalt and Corolla and the Cobalts average mpg was like 28.3 mpg edging the Corolla's 28.1 mpg average. So it just goes to show that the mpg figures are similar and in this case favors the Cobalt.
  • borssackborssack Posts: 1
    I also have the GM mastrcard but thought that they limited the amount of GM earnings you could receive to $1000 on the Cobalt. If I'm wrong and I can redeem all of my GM earnings - please let me know as I plan on buying a new car in the next week or so.

    Thanks,
    Debbie
  • I believe there are 2 kinds of GM Mastercards. The original one that came out years ago and the one GM wanted people to switch over to. I believe the difference between the 2 is that the original was good for only certain GM vehicles. The other one has reduced benefits but it covers all GM vehicles. I had $1700 of earnings but I could not use any of it towards a 2007 Saturn. I was told the only way I could use any earnings on the Saturn was if I switched to the other card but my earnings would then only be 20% of $1700. I did not switch years ago so I was able to used all of my accrued earnings I had up to that point. I would not ask your dealer how much of your earnings you can use, although your earnings should not come into play as far as getting your best deal from the dealer. In fact, I would be suspicious if he even asked you if you had a GM card during the negoiations. I believe the less the dealer knows about your buying power the better. When the deal was made,I then told my dealer that I wanted to put all of my accrued earnings towards the car. What I also did before I went to the dealer was call the number on the GM Mastercard and presented my question like this: How much of my accrued earnings can I put towards the purchase of a 2007 Cobalt? I was told any part or all of it. Hope this helps Deb.
  • I just purchased a LT Coupe in Rally Yellow with Ebony seats for $15811.00 -- out the door, including tax, tag, title the whole nine yards. It's options include the Street Edition Pkg (spoiler, sunroof, body side moldings) and auto transmission. It was the exact configuration I was looking for and was VERY hard to find on a local lot.

    At first I was going to special order it, but couldn't really find a dealer that would give me a good deal on a special order, so I was actually set to close on a different one that didn't have all the features I wanted, when this dealer called and told me they had this configuration coming in on a truck. I checked with GM and the VIN number is indeed assigned to them. I'm a bit concerned as I actually don't have the car in my possession yet. :(

    Would have walked had the inventory manager not come out to assure me that is WAS on the way and would be here in a couple of days and it turns out the minute I saw him I recognized him as an old friend from way back. Shocker for both of us. But, he's always been a trustworthy guy, so I don't think he's lying to me.

    They gave me a loaner to drive (also a Cobalt) until mine come in.
  • sharkman1sharkman1 Posts: 19
    WOW, that sounds great!! Holding out for what you wanted paid off. My experience wasn't pleasant, but I like my '06 LS coupe just fine and so far(22,962 miles) haven't had any of the problems mentioned here. Luck of the draw, I guess. Good luck and enjoy! :shades:
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