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Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • mikejlmikejl Posts: 78
    The deal was not done until I drove and accepted the car, but I had looked at others with the same options, so I knew what I was getting.

    I do like the car. It handles well and is a lot of fun to drive. I haven't had a chance to drive it more than 40 miles in a single trip yet. I'm looking forward to driving it on a long weekend trip of 250+ miles (each way) when the weather improves.

    I know this isn't exclusive to Cobalts, but I really like the XM radio that came with it. I am much more impressed than I thought I'd be.

    I also like the mpg. A lot.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I used to change out radio's with every car/truck purchase but no more. The radio's nowadays are very good especially the GM Delco's going way back. I good do-it-yourselfer/installer can connect most anything to these radio's wiring wise. No reason to go out and spend hundreds of dollars unless you are one of those who likes the big woofers with extra amplifiers, etc. That will only kill your hearing which you will pay for later in life.
  • MSRP $14510
    rebate $2000
    discount $1210
    selling price $11300
    trade-in value $500
    AirCheck voucher $3000
    amount to finance $7800 + TT&L

    I'm waiting on the title to this junker car to arrive so I can get this Cobalt. It qualifies for this AirCheck voucher here in Dallas/Fort Worth because it is more than 10 years old and has been continuously registered for the last 12 months. It also failed an emissions test which is why I'm looking to replace it. Of course I bought it specifically so it would fail so I could trade it in on a new or newer car and get this $3000 voucher.

    If I had GM card rebates it'd be even cheaper. Edmunds TMV on the car is right around $12,100 so it's not a bad deal at all at $11,300. I also intend to have the dealer tint the windows nice and dark ($295) and I'm considering adding a center console armrest but haven't got a quote and was thinking of getting that from a junkyard anyway.

    Compared to my best deal on a 2009 Corolla base 5-speed with the same equipment plus its standard ABS (AC, CD/MP3, 5-speed, no other options, which didn't impress me much more than this Cobalt at all) at $15,785, it's a real steal of a deal. I thought about a Yaris but I wouldn't be able to live with the gauge cluster in the center of the dash.

    I still intend to shop the Nissan Versa and the Honda Fit before I commit to this Cobalt, but with the Auto Show coming, I expect Auto Show bonus cash at the Chevy dealer, taking another $500 or so off, and if I can, I may qualify for a college student rebate as well since I am a full-time student at TCC. I can't remember if that is $400 or $600 or even if it is still offered. I might be financing less than $7500 for a brand new car with less than a hundred miles on it if I do this right! The only used car I'm considering so far is a 2005 Taurus sedan with 60K on it for $5989, and it ALSO qualifies for the AirCheck voucher and the $500 for the Intrepid junker, so I'd be looking at $2489 plus TT&L for a 3-year old car with 60K miles and that also is NOT bad at all.
  • I'm currently in the market to purchase a new car. I've decided that I'm getting a Chevy Cobalt. I've been reading the forums and I"m floored at how you people get these amazing deals. I live in Colorado Springs, CO and I swear that these prices are so inflated compared to other places. Even in Denver the prices and values are better. Can someone please tell me a better way to purchase a Cobalt? They are priced around here 2006 LS 30,000 for about $10,000 before tax title and warranty!!! South Colorado Nissan told me that a 2006 LT model with 36,000 as 14,000 before tax title Warranty!!!! Please someone tell me something!!!! Also please tell me what the difference is between the LS and LT models.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    You can try negotiating online with a couple local dealers. Online negotiating is pretty popular and you don't have to haggle at the dealership with that. Once you get the final price you just print it out and take the quote into the dealership. Chevy.com will do a dealer locator for you and show you the stock and will also answer the questions about the differences in the car models.
  • bobrubobru Posts: 2
    I just purchased 2008 Cobalt LT in Philadelphia area.
    I'm not sure how people buy below invoice, I got my car at invoice price without any "advertisement" or other fees. First I looked on Internet for car with options I wanted (manual, ABS etc.), I used Autotrader.com and Chevrolet.com to "Find a Vehicle", then I call several deallers and asked them to sell those cars at invoice price without any fees. Some of them told me "no" right away, but couple agreed and sent me quote with invoice price (same as it was listed at Edmunds and kbb.com). So deal was:
    2008 Cobalt LT coule, manual, Revolution package, Blue flash metallic paint with ralley stripes, Smocker's package - MSRP $16,660 (but because this car was deleavered to dealership in November old MSRP was $16,395)
    Invoice price - $15,404.35
    Cashback (exp. 3.3.2008) -$1000
    President's day cash (exp. 2.28.2008) -$1000
    Conquest bonus for non-GM owners (exp. 3.3.2008) -$500
    PA and DE bonus in conjuction with auto-show (exp.2.28.2008) -$500
    (all this bonuses are listed in Edmunds when you do "price with options", click on "available incentives")
    Total price I got in quotes: 12,404.35
    At time of purchase they subtracted $1,500 that I have for redemtion at my GM credit card.
    Total amount from which I paid sales tax: 10,904.35
    Tax: 654.26
    Registration $ title: $55
    Documentation (dealer fee): $157

    Total amount paid: $11,770,61

    Note: "LT" models have STANDARD: power windows, power locks, keyless entry, etc. It is not available in "LS" models.
  • bobrubobru Posts: 2
    I forgot to mention - 2008 Cobalt I've bought is brand new, 4 miles on odometer.
    When you buy used car from a dealer you loosing your bargaining power because every used car is unique, so you can not justify your price. When you buy new, all cars are the same, so you can pick yours from many deallers and make them compete for your purchase.
  • I bought a remaining 2007 in January and got a great deal on it. I bought an LS coupe with the auto tranny being the only option. The MSRP was around $14,500. After the factory rebate, GM Red Tag, $1,000 for my trade in, and an extra $1,000 off because my grandpa worked for GM, I got it for $10,300. The service is always great at the dealer I went to (I bought a used car from them before) and everyone is genuinely friendly. I knew just about everything about the Cobalt before I went in so the dealer spent about maybe 2 minutes explaining things to me about features, etc.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Posts: 70
    When I bought our Cobalt, I found several 1-2 year old Cobalts costing more than new. Chevy needs to move cars and the key is all the extra incentives, watch for them. Don't trust the dealer to tell you about all of them. Once you build at least $3,000 of incentives, you will be probably be better off buying new. You need to get the dealer to discount the car first, BEFORE the incentives. We got about $750 of a $16,295 MSRP. You may do even better. Our incentives amounted to $5,000, but that included GM card earnings of $1500. In January they doubled the GM earnings, now they are offering these other bonuses. Once you get that far into the deal, watch for the extra charges. Tell them plainly you won't pay them. Prep fees are BS. You obviously need to pay registration and some $ for them to do the paperwork (~$50), but as a dealer, their job is to prep the car and not add it as a charge. To meet their quotas, taking it off their lot by the end of the month is a bonus for them, so time your purchase. If they start tacking on fees and and it is the last week of the month, I am sure if you get up to walk, those fees will quickly disappear. If you don't buy your Cobalt with these incentives, and trade it in 3 years, you will take a beating. Just check the trade in on a 3 year old. Once I saw that, there was no way I would pay $15K for one. Good news is, our mother has been very happy with the car so far. Good Luck and find a dealer you can trust.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I was able to get my brand new 2008 Cobalt LS four door sedan with automatic tranny and rear spoiler for $300 over invoice at Browning Chevrolet in Madisonville, KY.

    This was a very stripped down car, with no power windows or power locks and no cruise control. The only listed options were the auto tranny and the rear spoiler.

    Sticker price was $15,530, including the destination charge, and Browning knocked off $374.40. This left the dealer with a margin of $300 over invoice, and, of course, he got his 3% "hold back." I was actually surprised that they knocked anything off sticker price, since the Cobalts were selling like hot cakes, and I was getting the last one in their inventory.

    Sales tax was $677.18, license and registration was $52, and the dealer "document fee" was $199. (Why don't they just call that "document fee" something like "Get your hands up and let me take $200 out of your wallet just cause I can fee?")

    A GM rebate of $2000 plus my GM Credit Card earnings of $1869.29 were applied, along with the $500 I was allowed for my 89 S-10 beater pickup with a salvage title that I traded-in with 219,6xx miles on it. (Plus I avoided paying an A/C repair bill in the dealer's service department by trading-in the truck. They were working on my S-10's A/C when I bought the Cobalt.)

    I ended up financing only $11,714.49. Not a "killer" deal maybe, but a decent one, I think.

    I think I will like this little car just fine, but I know I will miss cruise control when I am traveling. This is my first car with XM radio, and I think it will be hard to give up when the free three month subscription runs out. I might just have to sign up.

    Tom
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    You can have an aftermarket cruise control installed. I had one done on my S10 for my highway travels through Canada. It lasted about 8-years before going bad. A lot of sterio stores do it. Look up auto services in your local phone book. If mechanically inclined you can do it yourself otherwise expect around $150 or so to have it done.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Thanks, Ponch. I'll keep that in mind.

    I really don't often take long trips, though. I can probably survive without cruise, but it's nice to know that I can have it without spending a fortune.

    Tom
  • Just wanted to post how much I paid for a 2009 Chevy Cobalt 10/31/08 in case someone was looking to buy one.

    Cobalt LS Sedan with floor mats and side body molding:

    MSRP: 15925
    Dealer Discount: -1430
    Rebate: -1500
    GM Card earnings: -2159.58

    Purchase Price: 10835.42

    Of course I did not include the Tax and DMV cost plus the 67.50 dealer charges to the above price as it varies from state to state.
  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Did you purchase a "extended warranty" when you bought your car. Is it realy worth it or it's more like a last minute gamble?

    I don't know what to do.
  • tcaloftcalof Posts: 29
    I wouldn't bother with an extended warranty. The engine and transmission in the Cobalt are both very reliable. Change oil and filter on a regular basis (many people change every 4 months or 5000 miles), keep the tires properly inflated, don't abuse the car by towing anything over 1000 lbs, don't spin the tires on snow or ice, and you'll get many trouble-free years of use out of the car.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    On oil changes, I'd follow the oil life monitor recommendation given by the computer in the car. It takes into account ambient temperatures, short trips vs. long trips, city vs. highway.

    I know some people advocate changing oil a little early since the manufacturer is trying to be a good corporate citizen by extending the change interval. I change early myself, but still go by the computer. Just do it when the computer indicates 25% life remaining.

    BTW, the manual requires at least yearly changes if you are a very infrequent driver.
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    Chevrolet has a 100000 mi powertrain warranty and 3/36k mile bumper to bumper. There is only so much security one needs.... whether it is "worth it" depends on "how much?"

    Numerous people on the Hyundai forum (with 100k powertrain and 60k bumper to bumper std. ) have paid $1000 or more for a 120k AFTERMARKET warranty (you fill in the paperwork and hope to be reimbursed from ACME co.) this is downright stupid. The fact they can work it into the financing for $20/mo makes it more saleable.

    I purchased numerous cars in the 80's and early 90's with just 12mo bumper to bumper. Unbelieveable this was the standard for 20 (50?) years before. Reliability was also poor compared to now. (remember the good ol days?)

    For cars (nissan, honda,ford etc) with 3/36 bb and 5/60k powertrain standard a bumper to bumper 8yr /120kmi bb extension for a cheap (under 20k) sedan should be around $800. For more expensive vehicles loaded with electric sliding doors, 4wd, navi, etc we're talking about $1200. For the Chevy one would expect about $500 or so. Much more than this and you should pass.

    Many people get taken for $2000 or more for these in the dealer's finance office. Honda's warranty used to be offered online by several dealerships but I think they terminated the practice. I believe Honda's extended warranty is available until the 36k mile mark for $100 more than around time of purchase (under 6kmiles). Others may be similar.

    Warranties can be shopped just as cars can by getting 10 or so dealers to compete end of month.(sales quotas). 20 or more bids could be solicited. Just email for the best price from the dealership and they may give you the finance officers email.(or just forward it to him)

    Good luck
    --jjf

    Did you purchase a "extended warranty" when you bought your car. Is it realy worth it or it's more like a last minute gamble?

    I don't know what to do
  • When I bought my 09 Cobalt in September to take advantage of the Employee discount the finance guy tried to sell me a third party warranty. He "didn't know" what the price of the GM Protection Plan was. Anyone who purchases a third party warranty is not very bright in my opinion. Companies can go out of business and holders of a warranty have to get permission for a warranty repair. With a GMPP any Chevy dealer will handle it and I don't expect GM to go under anytime soon. I probably won't bother with one. I only drive about 10k a year on the Cobalt -just around town.
  • I drove out in an LT1 coupe for a little over 17k tags, title and tax. The car listed for around $18,600 as I recall. I bought it from Bender Chevrolet in Clovis NM. It is our local Cadillac/Chevrolet dealer and I service my 03 Cadillac DeVille there. Nice people. This was during the employee price sale. I understand that the present rebates are about as good. I probably should have ordered one. I would not have bothered with the remote start or the spoiler but would have ordered the Pioneer stereo. Bender ordered a group of 09 LT1s with the spoiler, floor mats, side moldings,and leather steering wheel with cruise, automatic, 2.2 engine, remote start,and Bluetooth. . Mine is Victory Red with the Ebony interior. . I like the XM radio and will subscribe. I have no interest in On Star. I had it for 5 years on the Cadillac and never pushed the button. I don't like a bunch of strangers knowing where my car is and how to open it. I just use it in town anyway and carry a cell phone.
  • Ordered in November, picked up last Saturday. Silver Moss Metallic, added the MyLink Package (one year directions/connections OnStar, 1 year XM, Cruise, Bluetooth, Leather steering wheel and shifter, 4 wheel ABS, 16" Aluminum wheels) auto tranny and spare tire and dealer added stripe. I added Weathertech floor liners at $80.

    List $19,250, with $1500 rebate, paid $17,041 cash. Purchased at Hanks Chevy in Ozark, MO. Known the owner and family(taught sons who now run the dealership) for over 20 years. Easy to work with, and they threw in a couple of basketball tickets in our University's new arena.

    All in all a good experience.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    It's always good to have a dealer you can count on.
  • sticker on this car was i think $16,500 I paid $11,700 after a $2000 rebate. not really sure if this is a good price or not since this is my first car and I dont think i did a great job bargaining.
    after $2000 in taxes, title, license, etc, and $1600 for an extended gm warranty (probably a poor choice on my part) i financed about$15,300 at 8.9% apr. I hope to refinance in another year after i have built up my credit.
    feedback? how did i do?
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    You did very good on the $11,700 price, but probably overpaid for the warranty. By about $500. But no deal is perfect and if you agonize over $500 you'll lose sleep. I would make sure you have bumper to bumper coverage on the extended warranty, since GM already gives you a 5 year/100,000 mile power train warranty. And make sure it is a GM warranty and not a third party warranty.

    To preserve the warranty, you should have the VERY minimal services required by the owner's manual performed and documented. All this means is, basically, during the first 100,000 miles, an oil and filter change according to the car's computer (usually between 5,000 and 10,000 miles) and a tire rotation and inspection every other oil change, plus an air filter change every 30,000 miles. Costs for the oil change should be about $40 at the dealer (or much less with coupons from the dealer, they will put you on their mailing list) and $100 for oil change plus tire rotation plus inspection. You should NOT be paying for "minor and major service" as recommended by the dealer at old-fashioned 7,500, 15,000 and 30,000 mile intervals - those $150-$300 services are mostly "snake oil" designed to make you feel like a good car owner.

    The only upgrades over the owner's manual services MIGHT be:

    1. Oil changes at the 50% remaining oil life point, instead of running the oil out the full indicated life, using the dealer provided oil OR going to the 5% remaining life point, BUT substituting full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are my favorites) for conventional oil at your oil changes - just carry in a jug purchased at Walmart.

    2. Brake fluid flush and change for about $120 every 30,000 miles or 3 years or brake pad replacement, whichever comes first. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid change in cars, because there isn't a quick and easy machine that will automate the process, like on transmission fluid and radiator coolant changes. But brake fluid is actually the fluid MOST SUSCEPTIBLE to contamination and hence degradation in performance due to absorbing moisture from the air, which lowers its boil point and increases the risk of brake failure due to brake fluid "boiling" at the overheated caliper when driven in, say, mountain conditions.

    3. Auto transmission fluid changes for about $100 every 30,000 miles, time doesn't matter.

    4. Coolant changes at the first 50,000 miles then 30,000 miles after that.

    Yeah, I know the owner's manual claims both the transmission fluid and coolant are long life items, but I would rather err on the side of caution since these fluid changes are cheap and easily done.

    DO YOUR SERVICES AT THE DEALER. Do your repairs at a good independent shop that works on Chevy's. I know this sounds like the reverse of normal, but dealers have all the required washers, filters, fluids, while oil change shops and other independents often use "universal" fluids, or take other shortcuts, or strip drain pan bolts. On the other hand, many dealers send out (subcontract) their actual repairs (as opposed to high profit maintenance services) to independent garages anyway. Not always, but often. Independents can often do timing belt replacements (not required on our Cobalts, just an example) as well as the dealer but much cheaper.

    And dealer receipts for warranty required services (the oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections) can really help if something major goes wrong. Supposedly Toyota refused to accept some third party oil change receipts during their sludge fiasco on grounds they weren't "real."

    Good luck with your Cobalt, it will take good care of you if you take good care of it!
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    You can get the extended warranty money back. I think you have 2-weeks or 30-days to get 100% back and after that it's pro-rated.
  • Just paid $6,850 (after tax, dealer fee) for a 2006 Cobalt LS Sedan in Victory Red with 51k miles.

    Previous owner was obviously a heavy smoker and, as you probably know, the car doesn't have any features to speak of ... but I don't care about those things. My husband in particular is actually very enthusiastic about the crank windows. Power windows in his old car stopped working long ago, and are $$$ to fix.

    I was originally looking for a newer Cobalt or a Malibu, but couldn't resist this opportunity to save money. I admit, I am a little nervous to see how the reliability factor will pan out. I get the impression the Cobalt has been significantly improved each time. Only thing concerning me thus far is that the trunk is suddenly hard to physically open, like the key doesn't pop it or something. I've started using the trunk release instead.

    Oh, and the fact that I'm not sure if it has the absorbing plastic that is supposed to be put in as an answer to lack of side airbags (recall). It sure doesn't look like it, and it's not listed on the carfax, but then, I don't know if it would be. I'm going to have to take it to a Chevy dealer for the recall plastic.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Lube your locks with graphite oil which is recommended for locks, that may help.
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Posts: 23
    I just got back from a Chevy dealer here in Rochester NY who has an ad in the newspaper that say they are selling ALL 2009 Cobalts for $5000 off MSRP. They had 268 in stock at the time of the ad. This is a legit price with NO ad ons other than reasonable costs for T,T, and L. The $5K discount is available to ALL buyers with no requirements. They take $2000 off the price then another $3000 in rebates. They will take an additional $1000 off if you have some GM lease that expires soon, (most people do not have this). I am buying an LS with an MSRP of $15,925 for $10,925 less $1000 for GM card earnings! The whole deal took almost no time since I already own a 2005 and 2007 that my kids drive and have proven to be reliable and fun to drive. When I went in I thought there must be a catch here but there is not, I had no pressure to buy any other product and they seemed glad to get the business, just the way it should be.
  • Since you're in Rochester and seem to have experience with Cobalts and also with different Cobalt drivers. How does this car handles in winter driving? (snow/ice) and Are you driving on 4 seasons tires (originals) or winter tires?

    I was thinking of buying a Cobalt next year but It's the winter that scares me a bit cause we get lots of snow here to.
  • Anything on the ss cobalt 09 sedan or coupe?
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Posts: 23
    Even though I am in Rochester, NY the Cobalts I have spend their time in Florida with my kids so I don't know about winter driving here in the snow with them, sorry.

    Also, the Cobalts that my dealer was selling are ALL $5000 off MSRP, they have a big selection of coupes,sedans, LS,LT, SS all available at the same discount dollars. The money off each car is the same which means the % discount will be all different. I am getting a manual tranny with very few options so the savings % is very high at 31% of MSRP.
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