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Chevrolet Cobalt Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    It's always good to have a dealer you can count on.
  • sticker on this car was i think $16,500 I paid $11,700 after a $2000 rebate. not really sure if this is a good price or not since this is my first car and I dont think i did a great job bargaining.
    after $2000 in taxes, title, license, etc, and $1600 for an extended gm warranty (probably a poor choice on my part) i financed about$15,300 at 8.9% apr. I hope to refinance in another year after i have built up my credit.
    feedback? how did i do?
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    You did very good on the $11,700 price, but probably overpaid for the warranty. By about $500. But no deal is perfect and if you agonize over $500 you'll lose sleep. I would make sure you have bumper to bumper coverage on the extended warranty, since GM already gives you a 5 year/100,000 mile power train warranty. And make sure it is a GM warranty and not a third party warranty.

    To preserve the warranty, you should have the VERY minimal services required by the owner's manual performed and documented. All this means is, basically, during the first 100,000 miles, an oil and filter change according to the car's computer (usually between 5,000 and 10,000 miles) and a tire rotation and inspection every other oil change, plus an air filter change every 30,000 miles. Costs for the oil change should be about $40 at the dealer (or much less with coupons from the dealer, they will put you on their mailing list) and $100 for oil change plus tire rotation plus inspection. You should NOT be paying for "minor and major service" as recommended by the dealer at old-fashioned 7,500, 15,000 and 30,000 mile intervals - those $150-$300 services are mostly "snake oil" designed to make you feel like a good car owner.

    The only upgrades over the owner's manual services MIGHT be:

    1. Oil changes at the 50% remaining oil life point, instead of running the oil out the full indicated life, using the dealer provided oil OR going to the 5% remaining life point, BUT substituting full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are my favorites) for conventional oil at your oil changes - just carry in a jug purchased at Walmart.

    2. Brake fluid flush and change for about $120 every 30,000 miles or 3 years or brake pad replacement, whichever comes first. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid change in cars, because there isn't a quick and easy machine that will automate the process, like on transmission fluid and radiator coolant changes. But brake fluid is actually the fluid MOST SUSCEPTIBLE to contamination and hence degradation in performance due to absorbing moisture from the air, which lowers its boil point and increases the risk of brake failure due to brake fluid "boiling" at the overheated caliper when driven in, say, mountain conditions.

    3. Auto transmission fluid changes for about $100 every 30,000 miles, time doesn't matter.

    4. Coolant changes at the first 50,000 miles then 30,000 miles after that.

    Yeah, I know the owner's manual claims both the transmission fluid and coolant are long life items, but I would rather err on the side of caution since these fluid changes are cheap and easily done.

    DO YOUR SERVICES AT THE DEALER. Do your repairs at a good independent shop that works on Chevy's. I know this sounds like the reverse of normal, but dealers have all the required washers, filters, fluids, while oil change shops and other independents often use "universal" fluids, or take other shortcuts, or strip drain pan bolts. On the other hand, many dealers send out (subcontract) their actual repairs (as opposed to high profit maintenance services) to independent garages anyway. Not always, but often. Independents can often do timing belt replacements (not required on our Cobalts, just an example) as well as the dealer but much cheaper.

    And dealer receipts for warranty required services (the oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections) can really help if something major goes wrong. Supposedly Toyota refused to accept some third party oil change receipts during their sludge fiasco on grounds they weren't "real."

    Good luck with your Cobalt, it will take good care of you if you take good care of it!
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    You can get the extended warranty money back. I think you have 2-weeks or 30-days to get 100% back and after that it's pro-rated.
  • Just paid $6,850 (after tax, dealer fee) for a 2006 Cobalt LS Sedan in Victory Red with 51k miles.

    Previous owner was obviously a heavy smoker and, as you probably know, the car doesn't have any features to speak of ... but I don't care about those things. My husband in particular is actually very enthusiastic about the crank windows. Power windows in his old car stopped working long ago, and are $$$ to fix.

    I was originally looking for a newer Cobalt or a Malibu, but couldn't resist this opportunity to save money. I admit, I am a little nervous to see how the reliability factor will pan out. I get the impression the Cobalt has been significantly improved each time. Only thing concerning me thus far is that the trunk is suddenly hard to physically open, like the key doesn't pop it or something. I've started using the trunk release instead.

    Oh, and the fact that I'm not sure if it has the absorbing plastic that is supposed to be put in as an answer to lack of side airbags (recall). It sure doesn't look like it, and it's not listed on the carfax, but then, I don't know if it would be. I'm going to have to take it to a Chevy dealer for the recall plastic.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Lube your locks with graphite oil which is recommended for locks, that may help.
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Posts: 23
    I just got back from a Chevy dealer here in Rochester NY who has an ad in the newspaper that say they are selling ALL 2009 Cobalts for $5000 off MSRP. They had 268 in stock at the time of the ad. This is a legit price with NO ad ons other than reasonable costs for T,T, and L. The $5K discount is available to ALL buyers with no requirements. They take $2000 off the price then another $3000 in rebates. They will take an additional $1000 off if you have some GM lease that expires soon, (most people do not have this). I am buying an LS with an MSRP of $15,925 for $10,925 less $1000 for GM card earnings! The whole deal took almost no time since I already own a 2005 and 2007 that my kids drive and have proven to be reliable and fun to drive. When I went in I thought there must be a catch here but there is not, I had no pressure to buy any other product and they seemed glad to get the business, just the way it should be.
  • Since you're in Rochester and seem to have experience with Cobalts and also with different Cobalt drivers. How does this car handles in winter driving? (snow/ice) and Are you driving on 4 seasons tires (originals) or winter tires?

    I was thinking of buying a Cobalt next year but It's the winter that scares me a bit cause we get lots of snow here to.
  • Anything on the ss cobalt 09 sedan or coupe?
  • nyguy1nyguy1 Posts: 23
    Even though I am in Rochester, NY the Cobalts I have spend their time in Florida with my kids so I don't know about winter driving here in the snow with them, sorry.

    Also, the Cobalts that my dealer was selling are ALL $5000 off MSRP, they have a big selection of coupes,sedans, LS,LT, SS all available at the same discount dollars. The money off each car is the same which means the % discount will be all different. I am getting a manual tranny with very few options so the savings % is very high at 31% of MSRP.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    A national newspaper is looking to speak to consumers who financed through GMAC and got approved or tried to finance through GMAC and didn’t get approved. Please send your daytime phone number and the vehicle you own to by Thursday, July 30, 2009.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email,, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Sticker 17,500, after discounts and loyalty OTD 12200.

    Automatic coupe with a few bells and whistles. Dealer was left with a row of unsold 09s after the first of the year , and obviously wanted a sale on a snowy day.
  • OK, its six months later and found a 2010 sitting on a lot.

    9850 OTD for an LS XFE Coupe- jumped on it.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    What was the price of the car before tax, title, license, doc fee, dealer prep, etc.?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,822
    A reporter wants to interview people who are focused on achieving 30mpg or better in their next car puchase. Please reply to by Fri, Oct 15, 2010 with your daytime contact info and a few thoughts on the subject.
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    Corporate Communications

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  • Above and beyond my GM credit card points of $3500, I have refused to pay more than $7500 out of pocket for a new car, especially since the bail out. They are clearing the lots of 2010's at this point. Wanted as cheap a vehicle as I could possibly get basically just to get to and from work (20 miles each way). Rochester, NY area dealership, base cobalt coupe XFE, price $15710, minus rebate and customer appreciation of $5810, minus GM credit card points $3455, minus trade in $500 (98 prizm with 160,000 miles) ( yeah, I feel like I got screwed on that part because I loved that car) = $5945. Then add tax, and fees of $1250, and final price out of pocket $7200. I tried the same deal back in April, but could not get total out of pocket below $8400 ( I had same amount of GM credit card points at that time also). So I am happy that I paid less than $7500 out of pocket including tax and fees. I am ticked that 2 months ago I had $3800 GM credit card points (lost some through expiration). Happy with the price but drive away in this car thinking that my grandkids will still be paying back for the bail out.
  • That 2010 never happended. Short Story - History.
    So I went out in search of another leftover 2009 coupe. Auto Air spoiler, MSRP 17895.00
    Car was 12600 out the door. black, grey interior. LS. Thats the one I ended up buying Sept 7th. That makes two cars in 6 months. So now I have Silver Moss and Black,

    I also priced 201 XFE base coupes . 11300 out the door was the bottom line on that piece. I opted for the 2009 auto air car.
    Could I have done better? Really don't know - but I have the car.
    Clincher- The last car in the house gets replaced before the end of the year. Now I am shopping for that Base XFE. Want a used low mile unit, no hit coupe.
    If I find one for 9k out the door, I'll pull the trigger. Any of the 4 colors. Doesn't matter.
  • 2doorpost2doorpost Posts: 74
    Patience paid off on the third car-

    2009 pontiac G5 ...stick XFE...8000 miles. Like brand fact I test drove it when it was new....and passed on it because the original selling dealer wanted 12,300 plus 1000.00 tax back in Oct of 2009.

    Found it at a GMC truck lot as a trade in- and they wanted it gone.... ended up buying it for 9800.00. I traded in the last of my J bodys, an old Sunfire, which gave me another 3000 off. Add tax...and I was at 7250.00 OTD. Car originally stickered for 17,300.

    When the G5s closed out, they had 6500.00 rebates on the hood, and many were it basically was a $10,000.00 car a year ago. I only could have done better if I owned a time machine.
  • Gas popped 4 bucks a gallon and I happened upon a 2010 XFE BASE coupe for 9000. 14k miles and clean as a pin (in white this time).

    With the other 2 Cobalts and the G5 having assigned drivers, it was my turn to drive a Cobalt.

    So that's 4 of these cars . All coupes.
    Two 09 LS automatics, an 09 G5 XFE , and a '10 Cobalt XFE.
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