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Chevy Suburban



  • I just picked up a 05 and it pinged and popped at cool down quite a bit. I found the tsb that was suppose to reduce it. But when I go it back it made more noise and even loader. I'm taking it back to the dealer to get it checked out again. I can deal with a low ping at cool down, but when it ping when I drive and idle and you can hear it from 2 houses down, that's just ridiculas, especially what we pay for these cars :mad: If i can't get it to quite down, I'm really tempted to get a cat-back.">
  • trevdtrevd Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying that I am a novice at this so my procedure/instructions are pure sandlot. However, this is the second time I have changed my PCV valve in my Z71. So here it goes. First off You have to remove the plastic valve cover (should have Vortex stamped all over it). Second, locate what I call a shiny aluminum tube/coil located near the top right of the area that was covered by the valve cover. Directly behind the coil you will see a thick black hose. Follow the hose downwards and towards the front firewall (in the direction of the windshield) of the engine bay. The PCV Valve is attached to the end of the hose.
  • I have a 2000 Suburban with under 60000 miles on it. I recently went to Ohio and on the way filled up my gas tank. When I came out of the store, I found gas was leaking from the tank. I thought I must have over filled the tank. A week later when the tank reached 1/4 level the truck would not start. It turned over fine. No gas was being pumped. The service center said that If you run you tank below 1/4 full you could burn out the pump. Anyone ever heard of that? GM said it is not under this recall. :sick: I think I am on my last GM car.
  • robertyroberty Posts: 1
    Yes... I noticed that on mine as well. Only happens on the passenger side. I need to get it looked at, I've turned it off...I don't really like the feature anyway.
  • pmdicpmdic Posts: 1
  • I figured out why the pinging got loader. Whoever did the tsb didn't install the new shield correctly. On the tsb it notes to make sure the new shield doesn't come in contact with any piece of the old shield and not to come in contact with the horizontal seam on the muffler. When I went to check it out it was doing both. So I loosened up the 3 straps and adjusted the shied. The sound didn't completely go away but is now to much quieter.

    FYI for anyone getting the tsb done.
  • I have a 94 K series Suburban that idles just fine. When you get on the road and press on the throttle however, it stalls and wants to cut out. I have replaced one injector that I thought might be bad, the PCV valve, the fuel filter all to no avail.

    Any suggestions?
  • jocaanjocaan Posts: 1
    I had good brakes when I bought this car. The shoes and pads are worn but not super critical. The brakes had a "mushy" feel when the brakes started to weaken. The brake fluid was dirty so I thought the first place to start would be to bleed the brakes. I put two new wheel cylinders on the rear wheels when the bleeding screws broke off. In trying to bleed the brakes after the wheel cylinders changed, I accidently drained the front chamber of the master cylinder-I was checking the level as I bled the brakes but somehow it happened. Now when I try to bleed the brakes there is very little fluid coming out (as before also) when the brake pedal is depressed (it goes down almost completely to the floor).
    The books I have do not mention how to bleed the master cylinder while on the car as I now assume I must start there. What are the steps to follow if I have to start at the master cylinder?
    Plus, one of the manuals says to hold the combination valve (its next to the master cylinder downward to the left I think) open during the bleeding process (which I had not done before when I bled the brakes). I see the combination valve and there are two knobs on either end with rubber caps on them. Should I pry these rubber caps off? How would I open these valves without this special tool that is mentioned? The book says an assistant can hold the "metering pin" in if I do not have the tool. I guess this holding the metering pin in keeps the valve open. Will I be able to see this "metering pin" if I pry these rubber caps off the combination valve? Can these rubber caps be pried off?
    This is a 94 Chevy Suburban that I just purchased so I do not know its history.
    TIA, Frank C.
  • sbreckensbrecken Posts: 1
    My 01 does the same thing. sbrecken
  • scozimscozim Posts: 10
    We just bought a 98 Suburban that's in awesome shape so we can fit the family in it (where I come from it's called a Whitman County Cadillac). We're getting rid of our truck and 5th wheel and with the owners manual on the truck it was real easy to figure out on the VIN tag what rear end gearing I had.

    The owners manual on the Suburban is not very much help. How do I know which gears I have in this thing?

  • dellgatedellgate Posts: 3
    I have 2001 Suburban (c1500 2wd, LT, no autoride) with 50k mi. I am thinking about getting new shocks on Suburban. Any thought on Bilstein shock? Did any one try Bilstein on C1500 2wd?

    If you know quality shop/mechanics who work on shocks in So. Calif, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  • go8go8 Posts: 58
    Anyone have problems with the driver memory settings? It does not seem like the driver memory settings (i.e., seats, mirrors, pedals) are being recorded. I am pressing the memory button until it beeps twice, which I believe is correct. Any help would be appreciated.

  • bhappy666bhappy666 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 05 Suburban. I don't know what I was thinking when I didn't get the video system. I let my wife pick the truck. :confuse: Now I am searching for the right one. I am in the Va Beach area.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I think there is a TSB about the memory setting retention problem that came out recently...don't remember the exact wording but I do recall reading about it. I reckon if you go to the NHTSA website you should be able to find a summary about it...
  • I have a 96 4WD w/ a 454 and about 140k on it. The only main issue I have had with it, which goes for most of the model years your looking at, is the front brakes and rotors. They wear quickly. Last set of mine were gone in under 5k, typically an annual change The rotors on these K2500 are not easy to replace either. There is a recommended Service Bulletin that address the issues it calls for special rear pads, new valve kit and a new proportioning valve. I have recently just tried this so I can't tell you if it works. Makes sense though, since my rear brakes have shown little wear over the life of the vehicle.
  • dsh1958dsh1958 Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Suburban that has had the ABS light on for a number of months. Our local dealer has indicated that it is due to trama to the front passenger wheel and that we need to replace the hub assembly for ~ $500. We know there has been nothing of the sort. We were also surprised to find out that this would not be covered under the warranty. I am wondering if you ever heard anything from your inquiry.

  • anravelanravel Posts: 2
    I am NO expert by any means but "the guys" I work with & my husband have all said that running your tank F to E is not good for the pump. And I'm one to run it F to E--got scared & stopped doing it.

  • stormin68stormin68 Posts: 1
    Certainly I've heard of that and it is true of ALL fuel injected vehicles. The Electric fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and relies on the fuel itself as coolant. If you allow the fuel to drop below the top of the pump it will overheat and if done consistently WILL eventually fail. My mechanic told me that when my Dodge Daytona left me stranded with a dead pump.
  • Hello there - I have the exact same problem in my 93 sub. I undo the taillights, replaced the switch and it still blows the brake and turn fuses. Did you figure out what the issue was?? This would help so much. Thank you, Don
  • I've got the above mentioned vehicle and in the past couple of weeks she's been acting up on me. In the mornings, or anytime the vehicle sets for a few hours it is VERY hard to get started.

    You turn the key and it cranks just fine but it will not start and run. After making several attempts to start it it will finally start but does so like it does not really want to. (like it's hitting on 3-4 cylinders running wise and then finally catches up to itself and runs fine) I've changed plugs, cap, & rotor and am not sure if it is actually a electrical problem at this point but maybe a loss of fuel prime to the cylinders.(almost like a vapor lock) This is your normal 5.7 350cu. in. Vortec engine. I also had thoughts about a bad ignition coil but after it does start it runs just fine and continues to do so until it is parked again for a while.

    I think I need some second opinions,... or maybe someone who might have delt with this problem and found the demon causing it could enlighten me as to the fix they used.

    ANY suggestions would be welcome!!
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