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Chevy Suburban

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  • Your Dealer and my dealer must use the same troubleshooting tree. Mine gave it back to me after disconnecting the light also. I pulled 10 fuses from under the hood and in the side compartment box and slowly installed them back in one by one. I have it narrowed down to the 15 amp Radio fuse under the hood, however, it takes care of several items. I just physically removed my radio tonight to see if that was it (I guess it could still be a scraped wire). My check engine light just went on today also, so if the burb is dead tomorrow, I'm going to take it back to the dealer and have them check it over again.

    Do you still have the power seat fuse pulled? If not and you pull it and it works for a while, maybe it would be worth putting a kill switch on that fuse and only engaging it when you need to change your seat position. (That is assuming that is the only thing that fuse takes care of.)
  • I'm guesing you had your problem with the mirrors fixed by now. But the manual says to try using the power mode to run the mirror to each limit, back and forth, then use the power fold-in/out a minimum of three complete cycles to recenter the tensioners.

    My old manual folding mirrors, I just pushed the mirror where I wanted it and then tried the power adjuster until it caught. And as I recall, back on my 93, I could just grab the glass and pull it out. It makes a horrible zipping noise, but then the threaded rod and wobble plate are exposed. Center the glass and push it back onto the mount tight. Sometimes the threaded rod bracket loses its epoxied bond to the glass. You can glue it, or ask an auto glass shop to do it. I think it cost me $2.00 back then the first time. I watched and did it my self the second, third and fourth times.

    Then I discovered it was my bug/stone shiled on the hood causing a severe slipstream problem. I took it off and never had another incident.
  • My 93 did that, and it turned out to be a worn ignition umbilical between the switch and the firewall. Had to replace the entire segment. Ran it a total of 25,000 MORE miles with no repeat.
  • I tried it hoping beyond all hope it would work.

    It unfortunately did not. :cry:
  • Anyone have any thoughts here - Trouble diagnosing this..

    97 Burban 87k

    **A new noise has emerged - it is almost an electrical buzz that comes from the engine when the gas is applied - harder the gas louder the noise...

    No grinidng, just a loud hum/buzz.

    **In addition, the Steering wheel, when turned, feels okay, but causes a squeaking sound from the engine as well (clearly not from the tires)..

    PLEASE HELP!... Thanks..
  • Check your belt, sounds like it's at the end of it's life.
  • The buzzing sound might be your fuel pump. Go to the rear and listen where the gas tank is. Is that it? As for the sound when turning, check your power steering fluid? What about the belt? When was the last time you replace it?

    Hope this helps! :confuse:
  • I have a 2000 suburban that is eating batteries too. Some kind of drain as drain like luvmysuburban.
    Any ideas

    Ray
  • My service engine soon light just illuminated after an oil change. Is it possible that the light is on because of that? It came on with in 30 miles of the oil change. I used a 5-30 semi synthetic made by YPF. I am also running premium YPF fuel. I live in south america and there are not many other suburbans here. Can anyone recommend a program for my laptop and the cord necessary for downloading the information from the computer. Also, how do I reset the light? Thanks for any advise you can give me. Bill
  • Thanks for the response. I disconnected and checked the battery terminals, everything looked fine. Ran an ohm meter (Fluke) across all fuses, even checked everything in the underhood relay/fuse box. All is well. Everything you'd think could cause the problem checks out!
  • Thanks for the response. Hmmm. That I didn't check. Will check it out the first chance I get. Was it an open or short to ground? Can you give me any more specific info? You replaced the entire harness?
  • **Thanks for your help...

    Took a look at the power steering system - Empty, and found a leak there...

    Replacing the pwr steering piece/pump should fix he noise and the problem --

    Thanks for your help - Belts are fine. Fuel pump fine.
  • Bill check out scantool.net they have all the stuff you need,,zip11
  • I just joined this forum so sorry this message is so late. I noticed the few responses so thought I'd give it a go. To answer your questions from MY perspective in order.
    1 I have a 2002 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1 liter vortec. I use it for daily travel as well since I only work a few miles from home. The ride on the Suburban is excellent when comparing to the Tahoe I traded. The Tahoe may have been a little better, but running the tire pressure closer to 50 psi when not towing heavy or running heavy payloads helps. Remember you move up to 12 ply tires that can take 80 psi with the 2500. If I take it easy in town, I can get about 10 mpg.

    2. My research said there is no other SUV that can tow as much as the Suburban 2500. My rated max is 12,000 towing. My brother has an Exursion with the V-10 and his max is 11,000. The Suburban has more payload too. I think much of this is due to the heavy curb wight on the Exursion. It's about 7100 versus 6500 for the Burb. His V-10 does a fine job but it rides like a lumber wagon. The V-10 doesn't quite put out the torque the 8.1 liter does. I think it is around 425 foot pounds and the Suburban is 465. If you're going to tow 10,000 lbs., get the 8.1 liter. I have a family of 4 and they all prefer to take the Suburban on the highway when not towing. Very comfortable. The kids sit in the third row, we fold down the middle row and they watch DVDs on a 17" computer screen. Ages 3 and 8, going on 7 hour trips are a breeze.

    3. I quickly ruled out an additional car for mileage because the costs associated with an extra car not related to fuel (insurance, maintenance etc.) brought the savings back to zero. If you have a large commute I'm sure you would have savings with a fuel efficient car. I only drive 15,000 miles per year. If you drive 30,000, add a Honda to the driveway. But as you mentioned you need more room for juggling cars. I don't know about renting a tow vehicle.

    Additionally, I tow a camper with a boat behind and they are 11,000 pounds. No problem. I tried it once with my Tahoe and got about 4.5 mpg and ran in 2nd gear often. The 8.1 liter mostly runs in OD. I push the "tow" button and let it pick the gear. Usually get around 7.5 to 8. Without the boat I got 10 once. Yes it is quite long. One foot short of the legal limit 70 feet. No you don't back up, far anyway. When you're not towing, you have a hot rod of an SUV with a alot of comfort. I'll run mine till it drops.
  • I had a problem when my 2002 Suburban wouldn't start and my friend had your problem. We both had aftermarket alarms with remote start. The trucks alarm system shut his truck off and kept mine from starting. After 15 minutes the problem goes away. I discontinued using my Viper (alarm/starting system) and am trouble free. Do you have a remote start or alarm system that can prevent the engine from running?
  • Not sure what year you have. Most years, you just disconnect the negative side of the battery for 15 minutes and the light is gone
  • You're welcome.
  • Agree. We had an '89 Suburban/2500/454cc (7.4l) had: 220hp@3300/425tq@1800 and the power was awsome! She got 8-10mpg. We now have a '98 Suburban/1500/350cc Vortec (5.7l) it has: 255hp@4600/330tq@2800 and 6500lbs towing. She gets 13-16mpg. Not as much power as yours, but she does what we need (wife, 3 kids and two dogs!). Wouldn't trade her for anything =)
  • We have a 2003 Suburban w/ 5.3. There seems to be a rattling noise coming from the exhaust right around the O2 sensor. Could the O2 sensor make this noise or could it be something else.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,650
    My '00 makes a similar noise which seems to come from around the exhaust. I doubt it would be the 02 sensors. It most likely comes from a heat shield or the exhaust itself.

    The sound is very annoying and seems to be worse when the engine is cold.
  • I got under the vehicle last night and pinpointed where the sound was coming from. The only other thing was the engine light came on. The exhaust was shaking and I could stop the vibration by wedging a hammer against the exhaust and the frame. It is coming from right under the drivers seat.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,650
    Bad O2 senser definitely would turn the CE light on and might cause the engine to run a little rougher which could shake the exhaust some more.

    I don't have a CE light and did just recently had the FI system cleaned and plugs replaced. I still get the exhaust rattle and I now just ignore it along with all of the other rattles this vehicle has, typical of GM vehicles.
  • Here's one that is similar and that I could use some help on. My Service Engine Soon light is on pretty much continuously. Once in a while, the Check Gauges light comes on. When this happens, the RPM and Speed Indications and Shift Indicator Lights all go out. In addition, something "kicks in" that causes very, very slow acceleration. Dealer said error codes started with transmission solenoid issues. $380+ dollars later and several days in the shop to get the transmission looked at, and the exact same problem exists. A new issue popped up today, and that was that it sounds like the ABS is kicking in about 10' prior to coming to a full stop.

    All these "Gremlins" started popping up at about the same time. The problems started about a month ago, the braking issue started two days ago.

    Anyone seen anything like this. I don't want to throw good money after bad on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
  • I am looking to buy a 88-91 Suburban 1500 4x4 but I cannot find the towing capacities for this model. Does ANYONE have the tow ratings for the 1500 and 2500 models? I have been searching for HOURS.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Exhaust shaking so bad you wedge hammer between the frame and exhaust to stop it !!!???

    What is making the exhaust shake?

    The exhaust piping is connected to the only thing that moves in the car while parked, running and you are under the car - the engine!

    What makes the exhaust shake is the engine. It is directly connected to the exhaust manifold on both sides of the engine. Exhaust is flexibly connected to the frame to isolate vibration noise from the car body.

    If the shaking is abnormally big it means that your engine is shaking abnormally big.

    You say the engine light came on. If you take it to AutoZone or someone else to read codes it most likely says you have a misfire situation and if you use a right kind of a scanner it even says which cylinder it is.

    Take your car to read codes. You can take it to your Chevy dealer who will charge you at least $75 just to read codes. You can take it to AutoZone where they read codes for free.

    You probably have a bad spark plug, bad spark plug connection, bad spark plug wire, spark plug wire getting shorted to groud or bad coil for that spark plug.

    Other than the coil, fix for this issue probably runs less than $75.00, which is the cost of new wire set, unless you take it to the dealer where just diagnosing the issue cost more.

    --Arrie--
  • I've been having a similar ABS problem...99 suburban. Between 5 to 3 MPH the ABS kicks in. If I take it real gentle the thing keeps on rolling. If I stop quick it's unaffected. Scared the mechanic when he eased up to his work bench and couldn't stop. They estimated $800+ for replacing the front wheel sensors. I had a mechanic friend do it for $150 plus $250 parts. It was a tough job as the sensor was down in the hub. Didn't change a thing. I still have the problem. There's a sensor on the transfer case that works the ABS and Speedometer. The speedometer works fine ... maybe the sensor isn't putting out a strong enough signal and fails at low speeds... maybe not. I'm faced with $130 in parts to find out. It's a screw-in sensor so there no trouble to replace it just the expense. So I came onto this site when I Googled looking for more information. Any other thoughts?
  • Sitting in the driveway with 353,000 miles on it, and replaced by a 2002 Chevy Suburban. :cry: ;)
  • Have you checked wheel balance or shocks?
  • With that type of mileage can you post what you had to done to get her there?
  • Hi all:

    We have a 2000 K2500 with the 6L engine purchased new in Feb. 2001 that now has 76000 miles on it. This spring the low coolant light came on and I found the coolant was down ~3-4 inches in the overflow so I topped it up with water. This has repeated once more and now the low collant light is on again. I can't find the leak, which must be small anyway. Has anyone else had a similar issue develop?
    Another issue is rust (paint bubling) seems to be forming at the bottom inside edges of several of the doors. Does anyone else have rust developing prematurely? We've always lived where they salt the roads (Michigan and Ontario) but the truck is still young to be developing rust.
    Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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