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Chevy Suburban



  • j2wicej2wice Posts: 2
    My suburban just would not turn over last week and after checking everything found out it was not getting any gas to turn it over with. I was told that i had a bad fuel pump and purchased a new one that did not look like the original i pulled off also i tested the old pump and it will run so we narrowed it down to the fuel pump relay which was bad this has been replaced and everything put back together truck started and ran no problem parked truck over night and now it wont start again any ideas????? any one know where i can find some help on this
  • heilmanmdheilmanmd Posts: 1
    have the engine coolant tempature sensor checked. This can be done if you have the manual and know how to measure voltage, etc... but otherwise best to have a mech put it up on the computer.
    the other issue is that with TBI it could be the TBI itself or the idle position sensor.
    In any case, a shop with diagnostic computer can do the checks.

    Mark Heilman
    94 Suburban Columbus MT 59019
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    I have the control unit with the rear defroster included, just an FYI. I noticed if I use the AC and start out with the temperature knob on the coldest setting and then turn the temperature knob to "warmer" after the cab has cooled down, I cannot get the air temperature to blow any cooler after that by turning the knob back to a cooler setting. I can turn the temperature knob all the way to the coldest setting but the air doesn't get colder, the air just stays the same temperature. If I turn the temperature knob to any warmer setting, the air temperature will get warmer but it will never get any cooler after that and you're "stuck" with that setting, unless you turn the knob to an even hotter setting (which really sucks in summer in Texas). Even after you turn the Suburban off, it's still at that same temperature when you start it back up later, even after you wait a long time. I found that if you turn the temperature knob all the way to the hottest setting and back to the coldest, then turn the Suburban off for a few minutes, this seems to reset everything and then I can get cold air again.

    Does this sound like a bad control unit? I've heard that the early ones had "squirrelly" problems but I'm not sure that this is one of them. Thanks. Lewis
  • ttjcctttjcct Posts: 1
    We have a 95 k2500 with the same problem. My husband has replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump switch, he doesn't know it yet (til tonight) but our suburban still won't start everytime. He was told to check the oil sending unit, which he has not. Today I did get it to start but I had no power windows, no a/c, radio or clock but I could lock and unlock the doors. The strange thing is the ABS brake light stayed on during this 15 minute trip home. Our whole brake system, rotors, etc. were all just redone this spring. When I got home and started it again it was fine, power a/c and all. Then after trying it again, it would not always start up and the idiot engine light came on. (It's 115 degrees in AZ and the windows were only cracked, it was really hot inside!) If you get any helpful info. let us know... and we'll do the same. I going to bug him again to just bring it to the dealer. I hope someone has some helpful info.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Well, sounds like you don't want to take it to a repair shop. I don't blame after what kind of service I have gotten from my Chevy dealer shop...

    If you have a fuel pump / flow problem an easy thing to do is to measure fuel line pressure by the engine. For this you need to buy a fuel pressure gauge (one that has the purge valve with drain hose attached) and measure the fuel pressure as you crank the engine. If pressure does not come up then you are not getting fuel from the pump. You said you replaced the pump already so I wouldn't think this is the issue.

    The second thing the engine needs to run is a spark. It is not possible to see the spark when you crank the engine other than you need to get an extra spark plug (or spark tester) and hook it up with a spark plug wire. If you have spark in one of the cylinders you then probably have it in all of them. Of course you could have a 'cold' cylinder but as I understand it doesn't even try to start you might not have spark at all. If spark is missing check the coil and distributor (I assume '93 model still has these).

    If you have spark then you need to check that your injectors work. With fuel pressure and spark present the thing left to check is that the fuel can enter inside the cylinder for the spark to ignite. I don't know how to check for injector voltage. For that you might need to take it to a dealer. And if the injectors don't 'fire' you could need a new computer in your vehicle.

    All of your trouble could also be cause by a simple grounding problem. Make sure your engine and chassis grounds are good.

  • jsoaresjsoares Posts: 1
    Bought my Suburban 05 off the lot with powered camper mirrors. I went back to see if I can get the power folding/curb side assist installed. I was told by the dealer that it needs to come from the factory like that and that it cannot be done by service. I would figure it would be two bolts and a direct connect. Are the electronics really that different or the dealership that lazy?
  • boydog40boydog40 Posts: 1
    my wifes 99 surb - we recently started getting a strong fuel odor in the cab while travelling down the road with windows up or down doesnt matter - have found no leaks anywhere when parked and idling - any ideas? driving us crazy and scaring us also.
  • I just bought a 95 suburban 2500 4x4 with a 350cc engine. We took it on a 1700 mile trip with no problems. (currently at 120k) It's ran steady at 210 degrees (12 oclock on the gauge) and recently have been overheating. I drove home the other day and the temp shot up to 250 degrees in a matter of 5-10 seconds. The coolant is checked regularly and was bone dry in the reserve. I added more after the engine cooled and only made it another 5 miles with the temp shooting up again from 210 to 250 very quickly. I plan on changing the thermostat today but am wondering how many others have experienced this problem? The truck overheated in 01 causing an engine rebuild, new h20 pump, and radiator replacement so all of these parts have less than 20k on them. Any comments or advice will be greatly appreciated!

    Jeff Janes
  • It sounds to me like maybe a cracked head or headgasket problem. If there isn't any external signs of leakage of antifreeze then it is probably being injested through your engines cylinder(s). Have a shop perform a test for this,... they have a gauge that tests for exhaust fumes in coolant at the radiator. You could also disconnect your coil wire (so the engine won't start and run) and crank the engine over a few times then pull all your spark plugs to which ones are "WET"

    Those individual wet spark plugs would indicate which cylinders are drawing in coolant and causing you all of the headaches.
  • Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
  • My chevy is having fuel problems it seemed at first like it wasn't getting any fuel to the carb so we changed the filter and it didn't help it would die and then not start again (The pump was put in about a year ago) We would spray some carb cleaner and then it would start for awhile finally it just gave out wouldn't even start if carb was cleaned out, so we took it to a shop and they put it on a system cleaner it ran better for two days and now it won't start again, it cost me about $200 already so does anyone know anything about the trouble these have with the fuel system or have any suggestions for me?
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,627
    My recall notice on my 2000 Suburban mentioned periodic stalling as a potential problem. Have you received a letter from GM regarding the pending recall on the fuel pump wiring harness? I believe it covers many units built in the '00 - '02 model years and the problem is with the fuel pump wiring harness overheating (IIRC).

    I've been hoping GM will get the fix out soon, my fuel pump is very loud and I'd like to wait for the fix to replace my fuel pump.

  • schsch Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 2005 LS, and information on this vehicle will be appreciate.

  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    FYI for everyone that might be interested. I went ahead and bought a new control unit and that fixed the problems. Air control works like it's supposed to now. The date on my old control unit was 2000 and the date on my new one is 2004.
  • sollsoll Posts: 1
    I just bought a boat (woo hoo) and when my current car lease is up in Spring 2006, I need to buy a tow vehicle. My wife and I own a Honda minivan, which has been great, but no minivan will tow enough weight. My boat and trailer weigh about 7500lbs. Our next boat (this one is 10 years old and we'll buy a longer - about 27-28' boat within a year or two).

    I'm fairly certain that the next boat and trailer will exceed 10,000 lbs. so I'm considering the 3/4 ton Suburban or Yukon XL. When equipped with the biggest engine they sell (I think it's an 8.1 liter), and whatever other equipment necessary, it can tow up to 12,000 lbs.

    Here are my questions:

    1. Has anyone driven a newer (2003 or newer) 1500 and compared it to a 2500? I'm sure that the 2500 is not as smooth, but can it be used as a dialy commuting vehicle?

    The problem I'm having is that my wife has always wanted a convertable, and we're going to get her one and sell the minivan. If I want to tow my boat to the ocean (I live in Georgia), I have to get a tow vehicle which by its nature isn't the best for a daily commuter (bad gas mileage, comfort, etc.).

    2. Is there any other SUV that will tow that much, be a comfortable family highway cruiser (for times that I don't take my boat) and be able to have all of the creature comforts (DVD player, etc), and gets the same or better mileage??

    I looked at the Armada/Infinity, which seems like a good alternative (despite all of the problems people say it has, I would at least look into it), but it only tows 9100lbs. I know that's a lot, but if I want a bigger boat, I need more than a 9100lb towing capacity.

    3. I thought about getting an older 2500 and a third car, but I have no room in my driveway and can't park in front of my house. Does anyone know whether any company out there rents tow vehicles for boats? I called around and everyone seems to say that you can rent a vehicle to tow your car using their (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.) equipment, but nobody that rents a truck or sub to tow a boat with your trailer.

    Based on my research, other than a heavy duty pick-up truck (we need more people room than any such truck would have) or Excursion or big van, there's nothing else to consider. An Excursion won't fit in my garage, and I really don't like the way it looks.

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off/stall. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    This could either be a fuel filter that needs replacing or the fuel pump is starting to fail.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,627
    With the weight your wanting to tow, a 3/4 SUV is really the only choice. That leaves you with a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL or an Excursion.

    I have a 1/2 ton '00 Suburban that I use to tow our 4600lb boat. I wouldn't want to tow much more than this with the 5.3L. It just doesn't have enough torque for pulling up grades. I recently briefly towed a friends 7000lb cruiser with his 3/4 ton Silverado w/ 8.1 allison trans. Wow, what a difference. That combo pulls 7000lbs much better than my Suburban towing 4600lbs.

    An Armada will pull your current setup w/o a problem. I did test drive one, and that is by far the best powertrain setup currently available in a 1/2 ton SUV. Great transmission and Nissan's 5.6 v8 just cranks out torque. I was shocked by how fast that truck is. I got back in my Suburban and it felt very slow.

    The problem with the 3/4 ton SUV/truck is fuel economy, they're a lot heavier and with a 6.0 or 8.1 they get pretty dismal fuel economy. The only way around that is to go diesel which leaves you with a 3/4 truck or an Excursion.

    Everything is a compromise and their isn't a perfect vehicle that will do everything. I'd guess a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL is your best bet. It won't ride as nice, but you'll have more towing power, bigger brakes and a stronger transmission. I've already rebuilt the l460e in my 1/2 ton burb at 46k miles.

    I've not sampled a 3/4 ton Suburban, but I've read on other message boards, that everyone likes them for everyday driving and towing. The real issue is fuel economy, because with an 8.1 (which is what you need) it will drink gas.

    Congrats on the new boat and good luck regarding the tow vehicle.

    I don't know of any rental companies that will let you rent an SUV to tow.
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    Well, I guess I spoke too soon. The control unit did not correct the problem. However, it did help me add another symptom to the problem but the problem still exists. What I've discovered is that the problem only rears its ugly head after the vehicle has warmed up. I don't have this problem when I first start the Suburban up.

    Any direction or contacts/information would be appreciated.

  • wclark3wclark3 Posts: 3
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