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Chevy Suburban

1131416181950

Comments

  • Your Dealer and my dealer must use the same troubleshooting tree. Mine gave it back to me after disconnecting the light also. I pulled 10 fuses from under the hood and in the side compartment box and slowly installed them back in one by one. I have it narrowed down to the 15 amp Radio fuse under the hood, however, it takes care of several items. I just physically removed my radio tonight to see if that was it (I guess it could still be a scraped wire). My check engine light just went on today also, so if the burb is dead tomorrow, I'm going to take it back to the dealer and have them check it over again.

    Do you still have the power seat fuse pulled? If not and you pull it and it works for a while, maybe it would be worth putting a kill switch on that fuse and only engaging it when you need to change your seat position. (That is assuming that is the only thing that fuse takes care of.)
  • I'm guesing you had your problem with the mirrors fixed by now. But the manual says to try using the power mode to run the mirror to each limit, back and forth, then use the power fold-in/out a minimum of three complete cycles to recenter the tensioners.

    My old manual folding mirrors, I just pushed the mirror where I wanted it and then tried the power adjuster until it caught. And as I recall, back on my 93, I could just grab the glass and pull it out. It makes a horrible zipping noise, but then the threaded rod and wobble plate are exposed. Center the glass and push it back onto the mount tight. Sometimes the threaded rod bracket loses its epoxied bond to the glass. You can glue it, or ask an auto glass shop to do it. I think it cost me $2.00 back then the first time. I watched and did it my self the second, third and fourth times.

    Then I discovered it was my bug/stone shiled on the hood causing a severe slipstream problem. I took it off and never had another incident.
  • My 93 did that, and it turned out to be a worn ignition umbilical between the switch and the firewall. Had to replace the entire segment. Ran it a total of 25,000 MORE miles with no repeat.
  • I tried it hoping beyond all hope it would work.

    It unfortunately did not. :cry:
  • Anyone have any thoughts here - Trouble diagnosing this..

    97 Burban 87k

    **A new noise has emerged - it is almost an electrical buzz that comes from the engine when the gas is applied - harder the gas louder the noise...

    No grinidng, just a loud hum/buzz.

    **In addition, the Steering wheel, when turned, feels okay, but causes a squeaking sound from the engine as well (clearly not from the tires)..

    PLEASE HELP!... Thanks..
  • Check your belt, sounds like it's at the end of it's life.
  • The buzzing sound might be your fuel pump. Go to the rear and listen where the gas tank is. Is that it? As for the sound when turning, check your power steering fluid? What about the belt? When was the last time you replace it?

    Hope this helps! :confuse:
  • I have a 2000 suburban that is eating batteries too. Some kind of drain as drain like luvmysuburban.
    Any ideas

    Ray
  • My service engine soon light just illuminated after an oil change. Is it possible that the light is on because of that? It came on with in 30 miles of the oil change. I used a 5-30 semi synthetic made by YPF. I am also running premium YPF fuel. I live in south america and there are not many other suburbans here. Can anyone recommend a program for my laptop and the cord necessary for downloading the information from the computer. Also, how do I reset the light? Thanks for any advise you can give me. Bill
  • Thanks for the response. I disconnected and checked the battery terminals, everything looked fine. Ran an ohm meter (Fluke) across all fuses, even checked everything in the underhood relay/fuse box. All is well. Everything you'd think could cause the problem checks out!
  • Thanks for the response. Hmmm. That I didn't check. Will check it out the first chance I get. Was it an open or short to ground? Can you give me any more specific info? You replaced the entire harness?
  • **Thanks for your help...

    Took a look at the power steering system - Empty, and found a leak there...

    Replacing the pwr steering piece/pump should fix he noise and the problem --

    Thanks for your help - Belts are fine. Fuel pump fine.
  • Bill check out scantool.net they have all the stuff you need,,zip11
  • I just joined this forum so sorry this message is so late. I noticed the few responses so thought I'd give it a go. To answer your questions from MY perspective in order.
    1 I have a 2002 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1 liter vortec. I use it for daily travel as well since I only work a few miles from home. The ride on the Suburban is excellent when comparing to the Tahoe I traded. The Tahoe may have been a little better, but running the tire pressure closer to 50 psi when not towing heavy or running heavy payloads helps. Remember you move up to 12 ply tires that can take 80 psi with the 2500. If I take it easy in town, I can get about 10 mpg.

    2. My research said there is no other SUV that can tow as much as the Suburban 2500. My rated max is 12,000 towing. My brother has an Exursion with the V-10 and his max is 11,000. The Suburban has more payload too. I think much of this is due to the heavy curb wight on the Exursion. It's about 7100 versus 6500 for the Burb. His V-10 does a fine job but it rides like a lumber wagon. The V-10 doesn't quite put out the torque the 8.1 liter does. I think it is around 425 foot pounds and the Suburban is 465. If you're going to tow 10,000 lbs., get the 8.1 liter. I have a family of 4 and they all prefer to take the Suburban on the highway when not towing. Very comfortable. The kids sit in the third row, we fold down the middle row and they watch DVDs on a 17" computer screen. Ages 3 and 8, going on 7 hour trips are a breeze.

    3. I quickly ruled out an additional car for mileage because the costs associated with an extra car not related to fuel (insurance, maintenance etc.) brought the savings back to zero. If you have a large commute I'm sure you would have savings with a fuel efficient car. I only drive 15,000 miles per year. If you drive 30,000, add a Honda to the driveway. But as you mentioned you need more room for juggling cars. I don't know about renting a tow vehicle.

    Additionally, I tow a camper with a boat behind and they are 11,000 pounds. No problem. I tried it once with my Tahoe and got about 4.5 mpg and ran in 2nd gear often. The 8.1 liter mostly runs in OD. I push the "tow" button and let it pick the gear. Usually get around 7.5 to 8. Without the boat I got 10 once. Yes it is quite long. One foot short of the legal limit 70 feet. No you don't back up, far anyway. When you're not towing, you have a hot rod of an SUV with a alot of comfort. I'll run mine till it drops.
  • I had a problem when my 2002 Suburban wouldn't start and my friend had your problem. We both had aftermarket alarms with remote start. The trucks alarm system shut his truck off and kept mine from starting. After 15 minutes the problem goes away. I discontinued using my Viper (alarm/starting system) and am trouble free. Do you have a remote start or alarm system that can prevent the engine from running?
  • Not sure what year you have. Most years, you just disconnect the negative side of the battery for 15 minutes and the light is gone
  • You're welcome.
  • Agree. We had an '89 Suburban/2500/454cc (7.4l) had: 220hp@3300/425tq@1800 and the power was awsome! She got 8-10mpg. We now have a '98 Suburban/1500/350cc Vortec (5.7l) it has: 255hp@4600/330tq@2800 and 6500lbs towing. She gets 13-16mpg. Not as much power as yours, but she does what we need (wife, 3 kids and two dogs!). Wouldn't trade her for anything =)
  • We have a 2003 Suburban w/ 5.3. There seems to be a rattling noise coming from the exhaust right around the O2 sensor. Could the O2 sensor make this noise or could it be something else.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,641
    My '00 makes a similar noise which seems to come from around the exhaust. I doubt it would be the 02 sensors. It most likely comes from a heat shield or the exhaust itself.

    The sound is very annoying and seems to be worse when the engine is cold.
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