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Chevy Suburban



  • I got under the vehicle last night and pinpointed where the sound was coming from. The only other thing was the engine light came on. The exhaust was shaking and I could stop the vibration by wedging a hammer against the exhaust and the frame. It is coming from right under the drivers seat.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,634
    Bad O2 senser definitely would turn the CE light on and might cause the engine to run a little rougher which could shake the exhaust some more.

    I don't have a CE light and did just recently had the FI system cleaned and plugs replaced. I still get the exhaust rattle and I now just ignore it along with all of the other rattles this vehicle has, typical of GM vehicles.
  • Here's one that is similar and that I could use some help on. My Service Engine Soon light is on pretty much continuously. Once in a while, the Check Gauges light comes on. When this happens, the RPM and Speed Indications and Shift Indicator Lights all go out. In addition, something "kicks in" that causes very, very slow acceleration. Dealer said error codes started with transmission solenoid issues. $380+ dollars later and several days in the shop to get the transmission looked at, and the exact same problem exists. A new issue popped up today, and that was that it sounds like the ABS is kicking in about 10' prior to coming to a full stop.

    All these "Gremlins" started popping up at about the same time. The problems started about a month ago, the braking issue started two days ago.

    Anyone seen anything like this. I don't want to throw good money after bad on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
  • I am looking to buy a 88-91 Suburban 1500 4x4 but I cannot find the towing capacities for this model. Does ANYONE have the tow ratings for the 1500 and 2500 models? I have been searching for HOURS.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Exhaust shaking so bad you wedge hammer between the frame and exhaust to stop it !!!???

    What is making the exhaust shake?

    The exhaust piping is connected to the only thing that moves in the car while parked, running and you are under the car - the engine!

    What makes the exhaust shake is the engine. It is directly connected to the exhaust manifold on both sides of the engine. Exhaust is flexibly connected to the frame to isolate vibration noise from the car body.

    If the shaking is abnormally big it means that your engine is shaking abnormally big.

    You say the engine light came on. If you take it to AutoZone or someone else to read codes it most likely says you have a misfire situation and if you use a right kind of a scanner it even says which cylinder it is.

    Take your car to read codes. You can take it to your Chevy dealer who will charge you at least $75 just to read codes. You can take it to AutoZone where they read codes for free.

    You probably have a bad spark plug, bad spark plug connection, bad spark plug wire, spark plug wire getting shorted to groud or bad coil for that spark plug.

    Other than the coil, fix for this issue probably runs less than $75.00, which is the cost of new wire set, unless you take it to the dealer where just diagnosing the issue cost more.

  • I've been having a similar ABS problem...99 suburban. Between 5 to 3 MPH the ABS kicks in. If I take it real gentle the thing keeps on rolling. If I stop quick it's unaffected. Scared the mechanic when he eased up to his work bench and couldn't stop. They estimated $800+ for replacing the front wheel sensors. I had a mechanic friend do it for $150 plus $250 parts. It was a tough job as the sensor was down in the hub. Didn't change a thing. I still have the problem. There's a sensor on the transfer case that works the ABS and Speedometer. The speedometer works fine ... maybe the sensor isn't putting out a strong enough signal and fails at low speeds... maybe not. I'm faced with $130 in parts to find out. It's a screw-in sensor so there no trouble to replace it just the expense. So I came onto this site when I Googled looking for more information. Any other thoughts?
  • Sitting in the driveway with 353,000 miles on it, and replaced by a 2002 Chevy Suburban. :cry: ;)
  • Have you checked wheel balance or shocks?
  • With that type of mileage can you post what you had to done to get her there?
  • Hi all:

    We have a 2000 K2500 with the 6L engine purchased new in Feb. 2001 that now has 76000 miles on it. This spring the low coolant light came on and I found the coolant was down ~3-4 inches in the overflow so I topped it up with water. This has repeated once more and now the low collant light is on again. I can't find the leak, which must be small anyway. Has anyone else had a similar issue develop?
    Another issue is rust (paint bubling) seems to be forming at the bottom inside edges of several of the doors. Does anyone else have rust developing prematurely? We've always lived where they salt the roads (Michigan and Ontario) but the truck is still young to be developing rust.
    Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 99' Suburban with a 5.7L Vortec. Upon cold start the engine stumbles to life and does not go into cold or fast idle. At temperature the engine idles rough and I am also getting poor fuel milage. I have periodically received Pcodes: 430/ Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2), P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak), and P172 System too Rich. I have checked the IAC valve and the O2 Pre-sensor voltages (engine not running). The IAC valve and both O2 sensors checked out. I have also found no vaccuum leaks outside of the intake manifold and TBI. Besides the plugs, what else can I check? Can anyone help? I am in the military with limited time and budget but a good mind I can put to work with help. Thanks!
  • I took it back to the dealer to see if they could narrow it down. I did drive it for a week with the 10 Amp fuse pulled from under the hood. The Dealer said that the day after I brought it in it was dead though... I'm not sure what the deal is.

    :lemon: What have you done to trouble shoot yours? How often is it before you drain the battery?
  • Your intake manifold is probably leaking.
  • Air filter, fuel filter? What about injector cleaner? Fill Suburban up with 1/2 tank of gas. Then put 3 bottles of injector cleaner in. You can also remove negative side of battery for 15 minutes to reset computer to relearn it self.
  • Considering the mileage, not too much. ;)
  • I agree: it's probably leaking out the intake manifold either by the head gasket or by the line that feeds your heater core for your climate control system. When that heppens, the antifreeze will pool on top of your intake manifold instead of puddling on the ground, making it a challenge to troubleshoot w/o a puddle in the driveway to make it obvious.
  • Thanks for the advice - I'll take a look. It sounds like this is a known issue - is there any remedy coming from GM?
  • vaduvadu Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Suburban 1500 LT with fog lights. I was looking today to see how to replace the bulb in them. After looking at it I'm glad I don't actually have to replace one yet, but does anyone have tips on the best way to replace the bulb?
  • vaduvadu Posts: 2
    I had the same issue with a 2002 Suburban, wouldn't start, get in the vehicle in the morning and the clock would have reset itself, etc; dealer checked every electrical connection, did a battery test, did every electrical test known to man. Even thought the battery tested fine I replaced it anyway..wala, no more problems. My brother's 2002 Corvette had the exact same issues, weird no starts, electrical issues; replaced the battery even though it checked out okay and no more issues
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