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Chevy Suburban

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  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
    If anyone has a wiring diagram for my car I would appreciate if you could send me a copy of it over the internet.
  • suburknocksuburknock Posts: 8
    Is there an experienced "certified" Chevy mechanic that can help me? I have a brand new 2006 Suburban 8.1 engine which at first start of the day after running for 30 seconds develops a light knock for about 30 more seconds. It seems like it may be comming from the passenger side. I first heard it at about 000,750 miles. It now has 001,650 and happens every time at first start of day. Is there some way to isolate, or/and determine if it is upper or lower? :)
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
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  • epifan68epifan68 Posts: 5
    Folks,
    I have exact the same problem with my O4 Suburban: vibrates at idle (stop signs, lights etc). Also there is noise when under load at about 1.8 RPM. It looks like exactly what you are talking about. Any info on the bulletin about the "flex joint"?
    Thanks
  • durtisdurtis Posts: 4
    Wow, you have to love the inernet. I have been having the same "droning" noise, and it's driving me nuts. I am quite enthused to have found a possible solution. Just had the truck at the dealer, who was not able to offer a solution. Do you have any other information on what was replaced? or the bulletin number? The dealer had shown me a bulletin, but it did not say anything about the flex joint. I would prefer the dealer to replace since I just bought the vehicle from them...a 2004 Suburban with 28k mi.
  • mekennimekenni Posts: 4
    I have the same exact problem. 2004 Suburban LT. From the day I brought it home, Vibration/Droning when at a light, idling, or when in reverse. Maddening! I had to file the lemon law to get the dealer to change the flex joint. But it hasn't helped. What are we to do?
  • epifan68epifan68 Posts: 5
    I found another thread on the issue on another site but I can not post a link to it here.


    From what I understand this problem is O4 Suburban/Tahoe/etc specific. I had an 03 Suburban with no problems like that. It looks like the only confirmed solution is "exauhst dampener". Any info on that would be greatly appreciated. Part#, TSB# etc ....

    Also .. all of you 04 owners. I do not like sound from right hand side engine compartment at acceleration (or undr load) at around 1.8K RPM. Any similar problems?
  • estakaestaka Posts: 11
    How do I calibrate a compass rear view mirror of a 1998 chevrolet suburban?
    I know to hold the compass button down until i have to pick a zone, but I have no clue as to the zone i am in while in miami, FL. then I have to complete 3 circles/// I believe,
    Anybody know or have a map ofthe different zones in the US?
    thanks
  • suburknocksuburknock Posts: 8
    Message #624 re: (knocking) New info on 8.1 is that there is a class action lawsuit in progress out of San Francisco against GM for "piston slap" which includes engines from 1999 thru 2003 4 to 8 cylinder engines including 8.1 s. Looks like sales people, knew or should have known about this condition causing a knocking sound at start up. Perhaps like when medications are advertized they at least should make a prospective buyer aware of possible side effects i.e. noise. The slap apparently is caused by a little to much clearance between piston and cylinder. (To much clearance will never become less or better and not likely any quieter or safer. There is no doubt in my mind the "service mgrs/directors" are aware of this complaint and have just plain LIED to me. I guess GM thinks they are so big we don't matter but the fact is we do not have to buy GM. The Japanese do not treat customers this way and their quality and reputation for long lasting vehicles is well known. GM is and has been in denial for way to long. I have been able to isolate the knocking to only ONE cylinder since posting original message. ONE of eight knocking is not "normal" as Chevy has stated to me. GM should be careful what they say as it eventually will come to what did they know and when did they know it. When you sell a product knowing it might very well fail and do not disclose this fact is it fraud. ???? We will see. :) I will keep this board up to date.
  • durtisdurtis Posts: 4
    I had read another post where the flex joint did the trick, I was hoping that was the fix. I also have an 04 LT, love the truck, hate the vibration. Honestly it's enough to make me sell the truck, driving me crazy. I just got off the phone with the dealer, they offered to take another look, and possibly change the flex joint. They did explain that GM does not have a fix, and they would be eating the cost. I have only had the truck a couple months now, and bought it as GM Certified. I work for a tier one supplier to GM for exhaust and ride control products. I have asked my R&D guys what it could be, I will let you know if I find anything out. The dealer did adjust the motor mounts last time I was in there at GM's suggestion. The noise did not away, but changed to a solid constant noise, and did not rise and fall as before...that leads me to think it might be engine vibration isolation issues.
  • epifan68epifan68 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I did fairly extensive research on that as well. From what I have read installing "exaust dampener" is the way to go. I will try it in the next few days. At least that is the only confirmed fix to the problem that I found so far. Two people independently confirmed that it worked. I love the truck as wll ... so do my kids. Here is a quote I found in another thread:

    "I had the same vibration, and went through the same issues with the dealership trying a bunch of different solutions. None of them (including the PCM reprogram) worked, until I had the exhaust dampener installed. It's a TSB for the full-size vans, but it works. Looks like a five pound hockey puck, hanging off my exhaust pipe, right behind the rear wheel. Not incredibly aesthetically pleasing, but it lessened the vibration considerably. Before, you could actually see the exhaust pipe shaking violently as the engine idled or you held your foot on the brake. I've heard of another TSB out there that suggests installing a flex pipe in the exhaust, but I'm not sure how willing a dealer will be to do that, especially out of warranty. Try the dampener - it might help, and it's probably a lot cheaper"
  • durtisdurtis Posts: 4
    I just got an email from my R&D guys (engineers) and they confirmed that the Suburban (GMT 800 Platform) from 2000MY-2006MY did not ever have a flex pipe as original equipment. So it would not be a retro fix, but might fix the issue. The placement, and rigidity would have a big impact. We have not had any warranty issues for exhaust drone...(we MFG everything from the Y pipe back to the tip on this platform). He suggested checking all the connections (Y-pipe, muffler) for torque, and inspecting the hangers. He did mention that we do not manufacture the Y pipe, and that there have been several complaints about the 1/2 ton 4.3 V6, and they used a mass dampener, with limited success, to fix the issue. I am not sure what that is. He also mentioned that GM has switched vendors for the rubber isolators within the last year because of failures. Be sure to check them for wear, and that they are hanging correctly, that might cause a similar problem. Keep in mind, he has not seen the truck in person, and is just giving his best guess. Adding a weight to the end of the exhuast, if it works, might expose another issue. Maybe put another hanger on there, or a different rubber isolator? so you don't have run a hockey puck? I am going to check the pipe for vibration today and see if it's shaking...if so, I might be chasing the wrong issue..maybe it's engine vibration isolation that is causing the exhuast to move? Bad engine mounts or perhaps a tuning issue causing a shake? I would hope the dealer had checked this when my truck was there for two days!!

    Thanks for the post.
  • Piston slap has been a problem for years.
    Chevy used to give a 100,000 mile engine warranty if you complained enough. For what it's worth, your engine will likely never fail as a result of piston slap. I know it probably drives you nuts because I have the same engine with the same problem. I would be surprised if the class action thing got very far, but keep us posted.
  • suburknocksuburknock Posts: 8
    Took 8.1 knocker in yesterday for 3 time. Dealer verified everything I stated. This morning after keeping it overnight they heard the knock at 30 seconds and it quit after about 30 more seconds so--- Dealer called GM tech assistance and they believe possibily a wrist pin causing knock. They will tear down and I think put in a pressed wrist pin, I guess it has floating pins now??? Not sure. I was told "BUT" if the pin doesn't eliminate knocking they will then feel it is piston slap and won't repair that. I was hopping the slap was minor compared to a rod knocking if that were the problem. I don't know your qualifications but I hope your knowledge re: piston slap is correct. It seems like GM agrees and is saying the slap is due to "design" and as you state won't hurt much. I am now just waiting for the call repair done come get it. Will post when get back from dealer. Thanks for your reply Terry!!!
  • epifan68epifan68 Posts: 5
    very interesting ... thank you. Myabe these are indeed rubber isolators. I owned an 03 Suburban, and it did not have any vibration problems like that. If they never switched from a flex pipe, then it must be something else ... like isolators . The pipe does vibrate in tune with steering vibration .. will ask the dealer tomorrow
  • durtisdurtis Posts: 4
    I had a very interesting evening last night. I went home and checked the exhaust hangers per my engineers request. They were all hanging strait down (perpendicular to the ground) and leaning slightly towards the front of the vehicle, just like he said they should. They did not appear to be worn at all. I then had my wife sit in the truck while I put my foot on the tail pipe, I could feel the vibration through my shoe. When I placed my foot on the pipe the noise/vibration in the cab went away. I then took a rubber bungee cord, wrapped it around the rear hanger (rubber piece) and attached it to the frame as tight as possible. Putting a lateral force on the rubber piece to keep it from shaking from side to side. The vibration/noise has be cut by at least 90%. On the drive in today there was minimal vibration/noise. About the same as the 2006 Silverado loaner the dealer gave me last month. I am not sure if the motor is vibrating more than normal and just transmitting though the exhaust (engine mounts), or the mounting system is not sufficient, or worn out. I have another note into my engineer to see if he has a recomendation...maybe just have a muffler shop tack another hanger mount on there and run another rubber isolator? In the mean time I would recommend the $1.99 rubber bungee cord!!
  • epifan68epifan68 Posts: 5
    thank you. That is interesting indeed. I will try to do the same, and will report the results
  • theclawtheclaw Posts: 2
    Back in Dec. 2005, I asked if anyone new why my burb was stalling and got no reply. I took it to a family friend who owns a shop and he found out that my EGR valve was plugged. He bypassed it and it works great. I am having another EGR valve put in, but for the past 4 months I haven't had any problems. He said that the diagnostic computer didn't pick this up that's why the dealer and others couldn't figure it out. Hopefully this will help others out there.
  • tantonetantone Posts: 1
    I have the same problem in my 01. Wondered if you found out what the problem was? Does anyone else have any advise?
    It is a low pitch hum that sounds like road noise but my tires seem fine and you hear it on any road surface.
    Tony
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,252
    "As with the Yukon I drove a few months ago, this SUV feels much closer to a premium German vehicle (i.e. Mercedes GL) than any of the previous GM SUVs. The interior also feels substantially better in terms of material quality and build quality."

    2007 Chevrolet Suburban (Karl on Cars)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • lmoettelilmoetteli Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Burb and it stalls when I hit a severe bump. It doesn't do it all the time, just occassionally. The other day it stalled when I turned onto a street. It will restart if I turn off the key and turn it back on again. I just brought it home from the dealer, and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They supposedly had changed out the fuel module with the recall. Any ideas???? Lisa
  • goose249goose249 Posts: 6
    I have an intermittent problem with my '99 Suburban. Every so often the ABS light comes on on the dash, the heater/ac/fan quits, as do the rear defroster, cruise control, and 4wd switches. Sometimes the "service 4wd" light goes on and off in the middle of this and when this happens, the transmission shifts funny (indecisively?) coming off a stop. The problem usually fixes itself in minutes, hours or days. The dealer has put it on the computer and has gone so far as to install an on-board computer for a week and it never gave a code. I've pulled a lot of the dash apart and inspected connectors and cleaned the grounds under the dash. No difference. We're leaving for the family road trip in three weeks and we can't be w/o air conditioning, at least that's what my family tells me. Any thoughts out there?

    I was also wondering if it could be an ECM. It used to be that I could wiggle/replace the ECM1 fuse under the hood and the problem would correct. Lately that hasn't fixed the problem.
  • I have a '95 K1500 Suburban, and occasionally when I put her in reverse there will be a clanking sound coming from the rear. Like metal banging past metal. At times it will included what feels to be(slight)grinding from the driver side rear wheel. Does anyone understand what is happening?
  • my suburban does the same thing, i only know of two fuse blocks............. have you found out any reason why?
  • raider1raider1 Posts: 3
    I need to replace the tires on my 2004 Tahoe LT. Any body use the Nokian Vatiiva or Nokian WR SUV tire on your Tahoe or Suburban. Interested to know how they work
  • tjeschetetjeschete Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same issue with my 2001 Suburban. I've replaced the plugs, wires, and throttle control sensor. I've also sprayed electrical cleaner behind the throttle butterfly as well as cleaned the MASS air flow sensor. Any other ideas are appreciated.
  • rudemanrbrudemanrb Posts: 1
    Hi guys I'm new to the forum.

    I have a 92 GMC suburban. that's driving me bonkers.
    It seems I keep blowing the 20A Fuse for the intstrument cluster. 1st it started out weird. then it increased. now everytime I put a fuse in soon as I turn the car to start it blows the fuse. I also noticed that when I put the driving lights on. the chiming sound plays and doesn't stop (until I turn the driving lights off) (the chiming sound you get as if you left your lights on after turning off the car)

    any thoughts?

    help!

    Rudy B
  • I have a 98 chevy that quit on me and will not start sounds like same prob. I changed the coil, module and even fuel pump but mine cranks but kills right away. Did yours do that?
  • Truck killed going down the road, it starts but dies immediately. I changed coil, module and fuel pump it loses fire after it cranks. Help before i buy a ford.
  • papabear6papabear6 Posts: 1
    do you know how to fix tail light problem :confuse:
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