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Chevy Suburban

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  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,916
    A reporter hopes to speak with current owners of large SUVs who are trying to sell their vehicle and their experience. If you are a consumer with a large SUV that just sold or looking to sell, please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Monday, March 24, 2008.

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    Share your vehicle reviews

  • As I have stated, I have a 99 (gas)GMC Suburban that for awhile when pulling hills with exceleration the check engine light would come on. After awhile the light would go out. Well about a week ago, as usual, I let my Veh sit running for quite awhile while I shopped. When I came out I turned it off to put my wheelchair on the lift on the rear of my Veh and then started it up again. All appeared fine. I proceeded to pull about 5oo ft away to a grassy spot to let mt service dog out to tinkle and shut my Veh off. When I went to start it up, it would only turn over. :confuse: The battery is fine. The fuses are fine. All have been checked. :( It has been suggested that it is the fuel pump. Does anyone have any thoughts on this. BTW, I do have a keychain door lock/security link. Could this have anything to do with this? Someone said that it might have locked up. :sick:
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    ramblin rose
  • ker1ker1 Posts: 7
    I have an intermittent noise like a whine coming from my distributor I
    believe. The best way to describe it is it sounds like the sound of a
    failing old mechanical speedometer - kind of a buzz/whine. I checked
    the play in the distributor shaft today as I was cleaning the rotor &
    there was very little - a little bit up/down (~1/8") & hardly any
    noticable side to side. This comes & goes & I can't find a common
    thread of ambient temp or engine temp or anything else. It's been
    going on now for almost a year but I have this fear of it failing &
    stranding me. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    I am shopping for an 04-06 Sub/YXL. Of course, the daily use for the truck will be driving to work (only 5 miles one-way, no freeway driving) and family outings on the weekend. However, a key reason for the purchase is to tow a yet-to-be-purchased travel trailer (probably 24-27 ft, 4000-5500 lbs). We live in Utah, so we will be in mountains practically every time we take the trailer out. I anticipate 2 long trips to Oregon/No. California each year with the trailer (lots of long hills!), plus camping trips on the weekends (climbing up Parley's Canyon toward the Unitas most of the time -- going from 4300 ft to 8500 ft in about 10 miles).

    I have found a couple decent trucks with everything I want, but they have the 3.42 gears. The 4.10's seem to be less common in the LT/SLT packages -- I have found them in only one out of the 10 or so '05 and '06 LT/SLT equipped trucks I have looked at so far.

    So my question is, is it worth it to get the 4.10's? My theory is 4.10s will improve towing gas mileage and decrease strain on the drive train, making it worth the trade-off on non-towing mileage and the extra difficulty of finding exactly the right rig. Does anyone have experience w/ 3.42 vs. 4.10s with the 5.3 engine (any full-size GM will probably do) who can give some practical advice as to how much better towing is with the 4.10 gears? Or how much worse non-towing mileage is?

    Thanks in advance!
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: I have found a couple decent trucks with everything I want, but they have the 3.42 gears. The 4.10's seem to be less common in the LT/SLT packages
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Most people buying Suburbans these days are not towing anything....they are cruisin' around town hauling kids to soccer matches and hauling groceries. If you are going to tow you will be much happier with the 4.10 gears. The 5.3 engine does not have near the torque that the older 5.7 engines had. And the 04 to 06 transmissions are not nearly as heavy duty as the old TH-350 and TH-400 models.
    There probably won't be much difference in your gas mileage with either the 3.42 or 4.10 gear....if you are towing a 5,000 pound trailer your gas mileage will be low...and that is to be expected. But with the 4.10 gears at least you will have more towing power and you will be putting less strain on the engine and drive train.
  • My 1996 suburban brake pedal drops to the floor automatically when I turn the steering wheel. It's a 3/4 ton with 454 motor. The power steering pump is hooked up to the brakes too so I guess it's where the power assist comes from so I'm wondering if I have a failure of a valve somewhere in the master cylinder or the hydraulic booster that sends fluid to the master cylinder when the steering is actually "calling" for the fluid. If any one else had this kind of brake problem on their 96 or similar suburban, I would love to hear if their is a solution :sick: :confuse:
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    I purchased an '04 Suburban LT this weekend (70k miles, paid $17,500). Ended up having everything I was looking for, including 4.10 gears. Black w/ gray interior. We "got" to take it for a 120 mile round trip to grandma's yesterday, and I really couldn't be happier -- so smooth, comfortable, powerful, and (relatively) fuel efficient. I wont miss that Dodge Durango! The Sub is better in virtually every way.

    My one complaint is the black paint on the radio power button and a couple other buttons is coming off, exposing the white surface underneath -- the only blemish on the otherwise spotless interior. Has anyone encountered an easy fix for this? I know must be a common problem, as about half the Subs I test drove were beginning to lose paint on the radio, especially the power knob.

    Thanks in advance, and I look forward to being a contributor to this forum rather than just a question-asker in the very near future!
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: My one complaint is the black paint on the radio power button and a couple other buttons is coming off,
    _____________________________________________________________________
    I have an '06 Suburban and the radio power button appears to be replaceable. Maybe you could just get new buttons at your GM dealer and install them yourself.
  • rem965rem965 Posts: 1
    i have a 91 sub 4x4 1500 . the speedometer went dead. i put a new senser in tranny and put a nother speedometer in did not help? HELP??? :sick:
  • IT DOESN'T COME BACK BECAUSE THE BELT HAS HAD A CHANCE TO WARM UP AND STRETCH OUT SO IT IS NOT AS TIGHT AND THE RUBBER IS SOFTER AND THERE ISN'T AS MUCH FRICTION WHERE THE BELTS TOUCH ANYTHING LIKE THE WATER PUMP OR STARTER OR FLYWHEEL OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT. I THINK YOU SHOULD GO TO YOUR NEAREST AUTO PARTS STORE AND EXPLAIN WHAT IS GOING ON AND ASK FOR A SPRAY CAN OF SOMETHING TO QUIET THE SQUEAKING. THEY WILL KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT AS WELL AS WHERE THE MOST LIKELY SPOTS YOU WILL NEED TO SPRAY. HOPE THIS HELPS.
  • slimhallslimhall Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2005 Suburban with the Navigation Radio in it. The problem seems to be that when the navigation DVD Rom is in the radio I cannot play cds. Is there a GM cd changer that I can get for this Suburban that will work with the Navigation radio? I see a few unused spaces just below the middle of the dash where it seems made for mounting something like that. Also, is there an AUX type of outlet on this radio for MP3 players?

    One more item, a few of the buttons on the navigation radio have some of the paint chipped off or worn off. Is there a recommended fix for this? I don't suppose they have new buttons available or touch up paint, do they?

    Thanks for the help in advance!

    Slim
  • When I turn my light selector switch to the headlight position my headlights go out even when cycle my hi / lo beam switch. Still no headlights. My DRL or daytime running lights will work when the light selector switch is in the off position or parking light position, Which I think is how they are supposed to work. Has anyone had this problem or can anyone tell me what to do next. I have replaced the light selector switch and that changed nothing except made me about fifty bucks lighter in my wallet. Help please.
  • 97dm97dm Posts: 1
    Have a problem w/the wipers they operate on fast or not at all sometimes. Other times they operate normally on timed sequence or on low speed. The other primary electrical problem is the 20 amp fuse for the interior lights, etc will not hold a fuse without blowing the fuse as soon as it is replaced with a new one. Have installed 4+ starters, 4+ batteries, and continue to have electrical problems. Any suggestions? Did the dealer recall for the bad mirror switch. My 97 is great except for the fuse / wiper problems. 127K miles, I'm the 2nd owner. A NJ livery service had it before me new until 2001.
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    Your owner manual should have that info.

    jt
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    Dealer do not sell buttons of radio. They do sell the whole radio. The cheapest way to cover these spots is probably to touch them up yourself since it costs hundreds of dollars for new or used radios

    jt
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,945
    Lots of people buy used 'burbans and don't have owner's manuals.

    Chevy owners are pretty lucky - GM lets you sign up to mygmlink.com and download owner's manuals back to 1993.

    Most manufacturers only go back a few years, and some don't offer any help at all.

    How To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    97 suburban's had a problem with the printed circuit board inside the wiper motor. I don't remember whether it's a bad solder joint, or exactly what the problem was. I replaced my whole motor unit, before I heard about a general manufacturing problem. There may have even been a TSB if it failed during warranty period. Standard replaceable unit, should be able to pick them up at any auto parts chain.

    Had my 97 for 10 years, never a starter problem. Normal 4-5 year battery replacement cycle. Did have two alternators go casters up during the vehicle owenrship period.

    Not exactly sure which fuse you are indicating is blowing, but if it is the 20A CTSY in fuse#3, that powers the courtesty lamps, cargo lamp, i/p compartment lamp, dome/reading lamps, vanity mirrors, and power mirrors. If you just had the recall done on the mirrors, they might have messed something up on that circuit in the drivers door.
  • haiiihaiii Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 96, I am also 50 bucks lighter, any responses or fixes that you have found?? My driving lights worked for a while but now all I have is parking lights. The buzzer module that goes off when you open the door was malfuctioning (going off while driving) and I thought maybe that could somehow be connected as that is when the headlights quit all together. Anyone have any answers or ideas???? Inquiring minds want to know. :)
  • squeezysqueezy Posts: 2
    have you found the problem?
    I am going thru the same thing.
  • squeezysqueezy Posts: 2
    I am having trouble. Everytime I press on the brakes the fuse blows. Has anyone had this problem?
  • tj27tj27 Posts: 2
    I have problems when I drive the car for maybe 20 minutes and shut it off it has to sit before it will start again. Turn the key and nothing, no noise...after it sets a while turn the key and it starts up just fine. I have had the starter, battery, alternator, battery cables all checked, rechecked and even replaced but it still does the same thing. No turn over of the motor, so it would seem electrical...but why must it set for a period before it will start again? This a great family vehicle but it is making me nuts as when I take it to the dealer they can't find anything wrong with it either and in most cases if you leave it just idle it won't do when you shut it off.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You have to figure out whether it is the ignition switch and circuitry to the starter, the starter itself, or the battery and heavy duty cables.

    Hang a fused test wire off of the starter into the car, so that you can measure the voltage of the ignition switch feed to the starter. It's the thinner wire to the primary side of the relay, on the starter motor. When this primary goes positive, the starter relay should engage, providing power to the starter motor. Wire this up, and wait till you have a no-start situation. Try to start the ignition switch, and measure the voltage on this wire. No (or low) voltage, you know the problem is 'upstream' coming from the ignition switch. If you have the correct voltage (13+volts), then you know the ignition circuitry is fine, and you need to look to the starter motor or battery/cables.

    Once you know the ignition switch and circuitry is good, hang your test wire on the secondary side of the relay on the starter, it will be the big thick wire. (Disconnect your battery before you wire up any of these test wires.) Now wait for a failure again, and measure the voltage on the secondary when it fails. If you have 13+ volts, then your starter relay or starter is bad, because it's getting the voltage but not turning over. If you don't have the correct voltage, then either the battery is bad, there is corrosion in the connector or up in the wire itself.
  • I am experiancing the same problem with my tahoe. Have you found a solution yet?
  • have you found a solution for this yet? I need some help.
  • Hey Chevy Guys & Girls,

    I have a 98 suburban and I just bought a used transmission with transfer case attached for 800.00. I'm mechanically inclined and could install it my self, but I have never installed a transmission with 4 wheel drive before. I'm looking for some instructions or someone with know how that can walk me thru the remove/install of my old trannny and install of the new one. My truck is 1500 4 wd if I have to I will take it to someone but if I can cut cost on the labor and do it my self I'd rather do that. Please post something here if you know of any free available resources I can use to help me with this project.

    Thanks :sick:
  • mike069mike069 Posts: 1
    I have same problem with 96 can you help me
  • shagcmb23shagcmb23 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution to this issue? My 99 is doing the same thing... Thanks!
  • zues1zues1 Posts: 1
    I own a 96 2500 4x4 w/a 454 and my oil gauge is pegged out on high. Sometimes it begins to jump back and forth, and sometimes it reaches the zero part of the gauge. When this occurs it shuts the burb off. This problem is unpredictable and it occurs pretty often. I've replaced the oil sending unit (which is a pain to get to), the instrument panel, and before I bought the burb the owner before me had a high pressure oil pump put on. I've been told the oil gauge will drop to zero if the oil sendin unit wire becomes grounded. ANY SUGGESTIONS, TIP,OR HINTS are APPRECIATED!!!!!!!!!! :(
  • tj27tj27 Posts: 2
    Yes, finally a mechanic said that the starter if it is not a genuine GM will usually last only 1 to 2 years….the place I was taking it to kept testing the starter and said it was fine. As soon as the new mechanic replaced the starter with original GM starter I have not had a problem since I sent out the request for help. He says the aftermarket starters after time heat up and expand and will lock against the casing….if you have someone turn the key to the start position and then take a hammer and tap the starter it should start if it is the starter…it just needs to be jolted to get it to unlock. I love my Suburban again.
  • Lately while driving uphill my 98 K1500 starts to shake really bad... it's not the tranny, it was just replaced and then checked again... the mechanic had it happen to him and he seems to think it's not getting fuel... already replaced the fuel pump...

    To me it feels like the timing is doing something funny, but have replaced the distributor 3 times and its still doing it?

    Thanks for the help.
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