Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Suburban

12829313334

Comments

  • Can also be a bad fuel filter. Change the filter first unless you know it's good. Your problem may disappear (mine did :-)
  • I had a macanic come over to house and do some work on jimmy. He put in a rear u joint, and a tuneup. Before tune up jimmy ran great but after the tuneup emediatley ran rough really rough, I thought maybe he broke a wire when changeing plugs, so put new plug wires on sure that would solve problem, NOPE! guy came back put little handheld computer on it and gave error code for o2 and missfire on a cylinder and catylitic converter code of some sort, wich i believe are not this problem because regardless of those issue it was running STRONG!. He changed cap and rotor that first day, could he have advanced the timeing some how? It smells like its running rich liked it choked. This rig ran GREAT before tuneup so im not buying an o2 sensor and cat went out a micro second after a tuneup. from the little i know it acts like a timming issue?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Could be.....If you had plugs that weren't firing, they wouldn't be burning the fuel, it would be dumping unburnt/misburnt fuel into the exhaust system, giving out of range o2 readings, and causing the exhaust to smell like it was very rich.

    Pull all of the plugs, check to see what each one looks like. Check your wiring sequence, to make sure you didn't get wires crossed to the plugs.
  • I am in the process of restoring a 96 Chevy Suburban. While replacing the stereo and changing out the antenna my heating control unit stopped working correctly. The fan control works but when I select heater, vents etc. it only blows out of the front defroster. It was working fine until the last time I took the stereo out and replaced the antenna lead and right after that this issue began. Also the positions of vent, heater, mix etc. don't click at each spot - but I'm not sure if they did previous to this. Someone suggested I replace the whole control unit but is it possible I blew a fuse or disconnected a wire or something more simple. It just seems to coincidental that the control was working fine previous to the last time I pulled out the stereo and now it doesn't work.
    http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_tongue.gif
    :cry: Any thoughts and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • I hate to tell you this, but pull the radio and see if you accidently pulled a wire loose on the Diverter door servo. That went out on ours and we were unable to get any front heat. Rear heat worked fine.

    CH
  • Hey Cheeshead, I was wondering how you made out? I am looking for the same part and can not find it anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks
  • 165,000 miles, I put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and CPS for oil leak (as part of tune-up) Then 2 days later, no spark from coil. luckily in my driveway. Both the Ignition module and coil get pwr to pink wire, but after replacing them anyway (after 165k miles) it still doesn't start. Cranks good and fast, just won't fire or start. While looking for the pulse from the Ignition module to coil (test light clip to + and probe the ports), I found that the pink wire goes open during the crank process and no pulse . checked the pink wire to the ICM and sure enough, it goes open too. Replaced the ECM/PCM and reprogrammed security system but did not solve the problem. , I'm really perplexed but now suspect the key switch sensor in the column and will recheck the engine ground connections when it stops raining before changing the key electronics. Anyone have ANY ideas or know of anything else it might be?? Or am I on the right track?
  • UPDATE As you probably figured, the cleaning of the ground terminals did not help the situation. I cleaned the engine-to-frame grounds near the starter, cleaned the battery cable-to block ground near the harmonic balancer, and the ECM/PCM ground at the thermostat housing. I rechecked all the fuses for the 6th time -- All ok, also jump-charged the "newer" battery for an hour---- Engine still spins very fast on crank but fails to show any signs of trying to fire. :confuse: Guess I'll drop another $100 on the passkey electronics tomorrow.
  • I have a 2004 Z71 Suburban with an (intermittent (every couple of weeks) dead battery problem - sometimes needs a jump start/sometimes not - but turns over very slow, clock reset to 12:00, CD changer cycles through all disks; yet radio station presets are maintained) - I have also heard the occasional very faint whirring noise in the dash when the vehicle is off - like a damper motor in the heating/cooling/defrost system moving to a 'home' location (possibly?)

    Then, for the next couple of weeks it starts beautifully.

    I had the system tested at Advance Auto with a 'state of the art' testing device - they test (1) vehicle off, all accessories off (2) vehicle off, all accessories that can be on, turned on (3) vehicle on, all accessories off, and (4) vehicle on, all accessories on.

    With the vehicle off, all accessories off, the draw was about 1.4 amps which they said was fine. Battery is new (been replaced 2 times) / Connections are clean.

    What might be additional root cause(s)?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Since you've already replaced your battery,.....I'd suspect, that at some point in time, something is cycling on (or not turning off), and putting a larger drain than the 1 amp when it was tested.

    The challenge obviously, is how to catch it. One thing you can try, is pulling the fuses on all non-essential circuits, to eliminate them as potential causes. Power seats, rear defogger, air leveling shocks, cigarette lighters and power outlets, interior lights, radio, power windows, seat heaters, EVERYTHING YOU CAN. Keep track of every circuit that it isn't, because you'll use process of elimination to hopefully isolate it.

    If you can buy an ampmeter on the battery and can catch it when it is failing, you can then start pulling fuses to instantly figure out which circuit the current draw is coming from. If you can't get an ampmeter, or catch the time on the ampmeter when it's failing, you're just going to have to track it over time.

    The BCM body control module, is a computer which turns on things in the vehicle (like lights), and it may be turning things on inappropriately. The On-star system wakes up and calls home periodically as well. There's lots of things happening, unplug everything but the bare necessities as the first pass to isolate where the problem may be.
  • I greatly appreciate your detailed troubleshooting steps - they are 'spot on'.

    The trick will be to 'catch it' when the vehicle is in 'discharge mode' - I haven't been able to do that yet. It's been a couple weeks, so I guess I'm 'due' any day now...

    I was hoping - after reading of similar issues in this and other forums with both Suburbans and Tahoes - that there may be a common 'root cause', and thus make the trouble shooting and action plan implementation much easier.

    Has anyone with similar issues found a root cause?
  • I've put about 10K miles on a new 2009 LTZ and have come to realize that the interior noise level is noticeably louder than the 2004 LT that I traded in. Also, my kids have now complained that the doors get really cold (Chicago winters).

    So my question is this … would it be possible to take the vehicle in somewhere and have them insulate the car is some way to improve both these issues? If so … a dealer or some aftermarket shop?

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • ok this problem has been eluding me for months now. My 92 Burb will not start without adding starting fluid and then will not idle at less than 1500-2000 RPM. I am getting 12+volts to the injectors I have changed the oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, ESC, EEC(computer) O2 sensor, map sensor, Idle air control valve, full tune up and full oil change. The symptoms are; Vehicle will not start without starting fluid, then once started will not idle below 1500-2000, it appears to shut off the injectors. I have talked to several techs that I know and they are all baffled. ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS.
  • Well actually if you wanted you could do it yourself. Buy some Dyno mat ( or something like that) normally used for sound deadening for large stereos. pull apart the door panels and replace the plastic normally put on there with the Dyno mat. This should block considerable more cold air as well as deaden the sound. Just make sure you imitate the some hole patterns 9but maybe tighter) so that everything moves freely on the inside.
  • When you turn the key to the run position, Do you here the pump in the tank running? You say it will not idle less than 1500-2000 rpms - is this with your foot on the gas pedal or with you spraying starting fluid? Doesn't your truck have a distributor? I didn't see where you replaced the ignition module. I would also remove, inspect and clean all of the body ground wires.
  • plrodplrod Posts: 13
    Just came across your post and am not sure if you ever got the answer but...if you look at the label inside your glovebox, the codes that begin with G are for the rear end type and gearing. Google the code plus cpo and you should get the info you're looking for. Good luck and sorry if I've duplicated someone elses response. I drive a 98 K1500 Sub with a 6.5TD and wouldn't have anything else for a family hauler, I love this rig.
  • New brake rotors now seem to come with the bearing races installed. Should I replace them with the ones that come with the new bearings or is it ok to use the race that come in the new rotor and use old bearings as long as they look good. I'm old school and always thought they should be kept in sets.
  • i have a 1997 4X4 suburban and it is leaking radiator fluid from what looks to me like an engine oil cooler. it has lines going from the radiator to the engine oil filter.my question is can i by pass it and plug it off temporarily without over heating the engine until i can order the part?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the transmission cooler?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I had a '97, and as I recall there was an option to upgrade from the standard transmission cooler (which is integral and inside a chamber in the radiator), to include a small cooler which sits in front of the radiator and adds additional cooling.

    I don't recall a factory engine oil cooler available, but I threw out all of the ordering info I had on that vehicle a couple years ago. An extra transmission cooler makes sense for heavy duty towing applications, not sure about an engine oil cooler.
  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Posts: 4
    I think that is a transmission oil cooler. No, you can't bypass it. After 12 years it may corroding or maybe vibration has caused it to leak.. See if a radiator shop can repair it.
  • I put new plugs and air filter in my Suburban in October. I had a new fuel pump / fuel filter put in my Suburban in November when it died in my driveway. Ever since then it sputters when I reach speeds of 40-48 mph. Once I get to 50 it runs fine. It also sputters sometimes when waiting at a light. I haven't taken it back to the garage as every time I pull it it's $100 for the diagnostic alone! Can anyone give me any ideas on what the problem might be. I'd like to be somewhat informed before taking it back to the garage again, as this is getting $$!
  • Sounds like your catalytic converter may be clogged. Does your suburban act like it doesn't have any power?
  • Hope you can help. 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT 1500 4x4. For a couple of weeks now the A/C hasn't worked, on Friday I had it re-gassed, there was only 2lbs in the system when there should have been 3lbs. Tried to get the A/C to cut in but no joy. The engineer said he had no idea why. I've bridge the terminals at the pressure switch and checked all the fuses and checked the relays (all OK) and can't get the compressor clutch to "Click in". Then somebody said, "Maybe it's because over the last month the temperature here in the UK has not been higher than 4 degrees, and having "Computer Climate Control” the A/C won’t kick in because the ambient temperature is too cold”, they also suggested maybe I need to re-set something after re- charging”.
    Any advice would be most welcome.
    Kind Regards
    Gus
  • My suburban was squeeking really bad. So we replaced the the idler pulley and a new belt. It stopped queeking, but now it's making a terrible clicking sound. Sounds like something is stuck. We took the belt off and it didn't make the noise. put it back on and again it's clicking. Any ideas? I hate this car. We have replaced the water pump, radiator, battery, starter, plugs and wires. Fuel filter and air filter. New brakes and shocks. I don't know what else to do.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Take the belt off, and turn all of the accessories by hand, to find out what is clicking (with the engine turned off, of course).
  • When we purchased our vehicle this past summer there were apparantly mouse droppings in it unknown to me though! Well I found some droppings in it this winter time in my sons stroller seat, where all the crumbs go. So I started setting traps. I have killed 6 of them so far and almost 7 but he got away last night. They are on the inside as far as I know. I'm not sure how they are getting in, if there are new ones coming in every night (we live in the country), or if there is a nest. I know they are coming in from the front of the vehicle, the firewall area. Other then taking the dash apart I do not know what to do other then just set the traps every night. Being that I have two small kids though I do not want something to happen to the wiring and that cause troubles while driving. If anyone has any tips or advice it would be greatly appreciated! My husband has done numerous amount of work on the engine but never seen anything, as far as a nest. So we think it is on the inside, if it is indeed a nest. The car sat for a while before we bought it so I believe that might be part of the problem. But if anyone could help out it would be wonderful! Thank you! :confuse:
  • We are at a loss so I figured I would ask here. We had a squeak noise start up here several months ago. I have a 99 Suburban if that matters. It's not a loud squeak just a little one. My husband has replaced the belt, and it stopped for a little while. Then it started back. My husband replaced the alternator just for the squeaking to stop and come back in a couple of days. He took it to a family mechanic who said he found nothing wrong with it but he replaced the belt. It was good for a couple of days and the squeaking started back yet again. If we travel in the vehicle for a while the squeaking subsides, like longer trips that last along 20-30 minutes. But just running from place to place around town the vehicle continues to squeak. We are at a loss now but my husband is thinking it may be a bearing. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Do you think they're coming in thru the air ductwork?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the belt off (while the engine is off), and turn by hand each of the accessories. Turn them, as well as feel for front/back play or wobble. I've found I can usually detect which accessory or pulley is the culprit.

    Many times it's the belt adjuster pulley, but have also had a waterpump and alternator bad on different vehicles.
Sign In or Register to comment.