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Chevy Suburban

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  • lmoettelilmoetteli Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Burb and it stalls when I hit a severe bump. It doesn't do it all the time, just occassionally. The other day it stalled when I turned onto a street. It will restart if I turn off the key and turn it back on again. I just brought it home from the dealer, and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They supposedly had changed out the fuel module with the recall. Any ideas???? Lisa
  • goose249goose249 Posts: 6
    I have an intermittent problem with my '99 Suburban. Every so often the ABS light comes on on the dash, the heater/ac/fan quits, as do the rear defroster, cruise control, and 4wd switches. Sometimes the "service 4wd" light goes on and off in the middle of this and when this happens, the transmission shifts funny (indecisively?) coming off a stop. The problem usually fixes itself in minutes, hours or days. The dealer has put it on the computer and has gone so far as to install an on-board computer for a week and it never gave a code. I've pulled a lot of the dash apart and inspected connectors and cleaned the grounds under the dash. No difference. We're leaving for the family road trip in three weeks and we can't be w/o air conditioning, at least that's what my family tells me. Any thoughts out there?

    I was also wondering if it could be an ECM. It used to be that I could wiggle/replace the ECM1 fuse under the hood and the problem would correct. Lately that hasn't fixed the problem.
  • I have a '95 K1500 Suburban, and occasionally when I put her in reverse there will be a clanking sound coming from the rear. Like metal banging past metal. At times it will included what feels to be(slight)grinding from the driver side rear wheel. Does anyone understand what is happening?
  • my suburban does the same thing, i only know of two fuse blocks............. have you found out any reason why?
  • raider1raider1 Posts: 3
    I need to replace the tires on my 2004 Tahoe LT. Any body use the Nokian Vatiiva or Nokian WR SUV tire on your Tahoe or Suburban. Interested to know how they work
  • tjeschetetjeschete Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same issue with my 2001 Suburban. I've replaced the plugs, wires, and throttle control sensor. I've also sprayed electrical cleaner behind the throttle butterfly as well as cleaned the MASS air flow sensor. Any other ideas are appreciated.
  • rudemanrbrudemanrb Posts: 1
    Hi guys I'm new to the forum.

    I have a 92 GMC suburban. that's driving me bonkers.
    It seems I keep blowing the 20A Fuse for the intstrument cluster. 1st it started out weird. then it increased. now everytime I put a fuse in soon as I turn the car to start it blows the fuse. I also noticed that when I put the driving lights on. the chiming sound plays and doesn't stop (until I turn the driving lights off) (the chiming sound you get as if you left your lights on after turning off the car)

    any thoughts?

    help!

    Rudy B
  • I have a 98 chevy that quit on me and will not start sounds like same prob. I changed the coil, module and even fuel pump but mine cranks but kills right away. Did yours do that?
  • Truck killed going down the road, it starts but dies immediately. I changed coil, module and fuel pump it loses fire after it cranks. Help before i buy a ford.
  • papabear6papabear6 Posts: 1
    do you know how to fix tail light problem :confuse:
  • gto3gto3 Posts: 1
    My 97 Suburban's speedo,tach,& shift ind. lite would work intermittently,and the trans wouldn't shift right. After checking similar posts #307,334,337,339,& 551, post #569 from chevmech hit the nail on the head. He indicated the culprit was a common ignition switch problem and noted a tech service bulletin. I went to the local dealer where I know some of the employees. NO TSB was listed in the service department but I went to the parts dept. to buy a switch. After working on cars for 30 years I knew this was the answer, I just have limited experience with computer vehicles. THE TSB WAS LISTED IN THE PARTS BOOK.... along with all of the possible symtoms. $230., but none in stock. Ordered one from the area "Bumper To Bumper" dealer for $130. with next day delivery. Installed switch, Took 2000 mile vacation the next day with absolutely NO PROBLEMS!! P.S. The dealership thought it probably was a dash cluster or a computer at a cost of $400.-$600. EACH! I'm a first time user of this forum and I want to thank the creator and all of the participants. CHEVMECH...I hope I can buy you a steak dinner in the future. THANKS AGAIN...gto3
  • jon356jon356 Posts: 1
    I have a 1985 Chevy Suburban C2500 w/454

    My High Beams are on all the time, and I cannot cancel them.

    I replaced the dimmer switch on the Steering column, above the pedals, but that did not solve the problem. Pulling the column stalk backwards does not result in a click, and I noticed that neither the new or old dimmer switch posses a detent in it’s movement.

    I therefore have 2 questions:

    1) Is there a component connected to the stalk responsible for the click that I must replace?
    2) I tested continuity of both the new and old dimmer switch, and they behaved the same. Curiously, throwing the switch trigger did not change the continuity. No matter what position the switch was in, there was always continuity between the bottom single connector, and the top right. The top left connector never has continuity with either of the others. Is this correct?

    Thank you for taking my question.
  • I just had the same thing happen to me on tues.night,have you found your problem and if so what finally fixed it.
  • I am looking for some help with my 03 z71 suburban. First let me tell you my husband is deployed and I know little about the truck, other than what I have had to have done to it. So here goes, any help is greatly appreciated.

    In Dec my spark plugs went bad. So I had them replaced, plugs and wires. Ran great after that, until Feb/March. One of the cylinders had spark plugs that went bad. Misfire on #4 and #5. Well, guess what? It just happened again. I just had to have them replaced again. The mechanics are scratching their heads. Not sure what to do. I took it to the dealer and they don't know what's wrong with it either. I have had the o2 sensor replaced because it went bad shortly before the spark plugs went bad this last time. I have replaced the fuel filter and the intermediate(something) was lubed a few days ago. Still no answer to my spark plug problems though. If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

    Thanks
    Shannon
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Did the spark plugs really go bad or is this just an assumption based on the misfire codes?

    --Arrie--
  • The codes were misfires. But the spark plug that they gave me this last time was cracked. It's always a misfire on the same cylinder. The same spark plugs.

    Shannon
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    This might sound too simple to be the problem but it happened to my '04 Tahoe and can happen to anybody.

    The spark plug boots have an aluminum heat shields installed around them. Some of the spark leaks through the rubber boot to the heat shield and from that to engine ground thru a grounding spring mounted in the end of the heat shield.

    When spark plugs are replaced the boots naturally must first be removed to gain access to the plugs. When boots are removed it easily happens that the spark plug wire connector inside the boot slides out some before it comes loose from the plug. When the wires are then installed back on the new spark plugs the plugs do not go as deep in the boots as they were if the wire connector had moved. THIS HAPPENS VERY EASILY AND GREAT CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN RE-INSTALLING BOOTS ON PLUGS TO MAKE SURE THEY GO ON DEEP ENOUGH.

    If boots don't go on the plugs deep enough you will get excessive spark leak which will set the code and if severe enough it will result in rough running engine too.

    I have written about this a lot in this forum when I had to fix my new '04 Tahoe under warranty myself as the dealer would not. I learned alot and this was one of the details.

    I fixed my problem first by removing those heat shields to verify that the problem goes away without them and when this really fixed the problem I went and purchased a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need the heat shields. I have not had any problems with this since I did this over a year ago.

    Before doing the racing wires I tried 2 sets of dealer GM wires and two sets of third party wires that all require using the heat shields. I did run without heat shields with all of them for some time and they all performed better without heat shields. As they are meant to be used with shields I then went to get wires that do not require use of them.

    --Arrie--
  • I have exactly the same problem with my '99 sub. Can you tell me where the delay module is located and how do I replace it?
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Posts: 6
    i have the same problem change belt and tensioner 3 times mechanics tell me tensioner hits the mounting bolt . did you find the solution
  • I have an '03 Suburban with approximately 72,000 miles that we've had in the shop many times in the last year. Each episode is something different and costs more each time to fix than the last. The latest problem is that it will just shut down while I'm driving. Each time my speed is right at 40mph and the engine seems to be laboring and won't shift to the next gear. Then I lose all power including power steering. No lights on the dash light up except the battery light when the power dies. I coast to the side of the road and shut the key off, and it starts right back up with no warning lights or codes showing. I've taken it in for repair, but I keep getting told that they can't diagnose the problem with the computer diagnostic equipment unless the check engine light comes on or if they come out to the side of the road where I'm stranded. If anyone can suggest a fix for this, I'd be forever grateful. I am a die hard GM product buyer and love my Suburban but feel very disappointed by the quality level of the products that are being built.
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