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Chevy Suburban

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  • timfraliktimfralik Posts: 1
    I turned it off, 15 minutes later tried to re-start and engine turns over fine but it dosnt even try to run....re-placed fuel pump relay.....checked pressure at fuel filter input and no initial pressure from the pump with key in on position....is the pump bad?
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    i believe that you need to pressurize the fuel lines before the pump will pump on it's own. You may be able to do this by banging on the bottom of the fuel tank with the fuel cap on.
  • adamsbroncoadamsbronco Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    have 06 sub dropped tank and put new pump in last year since then can't fill with fuel without pump constantly clicking off takes half hour to fill tank dealer just replaced fuel canister and fuel vent saying they were plugged this did not cure the issues thinking is has to do with tank where fuel drops in taken any ideas be greatly appreciated
  • Hi all.

    This truck has a history of inadvertent starting probs.
    When it starts it runs perfectly; no hesitation, no backfires, no stalls.
    Once in awhile though, it would start then immediately stall.
    At those times it would take many tries and sometimes some wait time until it started finally.

    Last week it stopped starting altogether.
    No cranking at all and very little electricity to the truck.
    Replaced the battery and cleaned the VERY corrode cables.
    Removed and checked the starter. It passed.

    Now I have good power to the truck.
    Dash lights work. Headlights work. Wipers work. Brake lights work.
    But no ignition, no sound from fuel pump, no turn signals, no reverse lights.

    I checked all the fuses in both boxes and all look good.
    Don't know how to check the module thingies in the under-hood fuse box.

    I thought maybe a bad ignition switch so I replaced that and I think I put everything back the way I found it.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks.
    B
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Try another key, possibly the security chip isn't communicating with the security system....or that's messed up.
  • Good idea except the keys aren't chipped.
    They're old!
    lol
  • jbran95jbran95 Posts: 10
    It is the factory alarm, my '01 has the same problem and there is no chip in my key either. The dealer seems to think that I have a bad wire harness. Typically if you wait about 10-15 minutes the truck would start. Sometimes I would have to do a full reset by disconnecting the battery overnight.
  • I don't think that mine has an alarm.
    It has security but I think that's only for the radio.

    Besides, why would that effect the reverse lights and/or turn signals.

    Thanks though.
    B
  • First of all you have to remember why people post on a forum such as this in the first place, because they're having a problem. Not everyone is going to post that everything is just rosy with their Suburban.

    Take me for instance, I bought my 1990 2500 suburban with over 300k on the odometer in February and have have no problems with it.

    Also, the late 90's and early 2000's didn't have a very refined interior going on in concerns to Chevy trucks, but you bought to carry people and haul things which it should do admirably.
  • Hey everybody,
    I was wondering if anyone knew how to tell what type of brakes my suburban has short of removing them and measuring them.
    Its my family's only vehicle at the moment so I can't take them off then go to the parts store.
    Its a 1990 3/4ton 2wd with a 5.7L engine and turbo 400 trans. Autozone is calling for either a JB5 or JB7 front caliper.
    Thanks for the help
  • i need help replacing the control on the column. i have a 97 Ls 1,500 with air bag. is there someone out there who can tell me how to accomplish this? the air bag is what scares me.
  • I picked up an 89 Suburban a year ago with TBI 350. It occasionally gave me an error light when going up reasonably steep hills. Here a few weeks ago it took a complete dump and would barely run. I happen to have an 89 Caprice TBI 350 and an 89 Astrovan TBI. I just went through the most obvious likely things it might be.

    I replaced, O2 sensor, TPS sensor, Map sensor, brand new cap, brand new fuel filter, and then noticed I had antifreeze dripping from my exhaust pipe. I went ahead and replaced my intake gasketts and was pretty good except when it warms up.

    It drives reasonably well cold except sometimes a bit gutless when taking off, when it is fully on the other hand the idle keeps switching from low to high and is constantly dying. Very wierd is that when I try to restart the engine the timing is way advanced. I know the computer controls timing and that the only way it can do that is by varying the spark along the width of the terminals in cap, not much advance ( is this accurate?) I figured if I placed the distributor in just a little off from where it originally was and that was the computers method of advance it could try to advance to the point that the spark might miss the terminal (am I even on the right track here). I have gone back and checked my marks on the manifold and distributor and it lines up perfectly, I cannot imagine that I could have put it back in more than 1/32 inch from it's original placement, I am beginning to think it may have been having timing trouble before I took out the diributor and is just a continuing of that problem, does the computer have a dead mechanical set timeing or is it a passive sytem for determining the timing?

    I have read that there is a timing bypass wire that you may unplug to set the timing, I guess this resets the computer back to its starting point anyone know ehere to find thid wire and exactly what they say to do?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If you have antifreeze dripping from exhaust, then suspect a leaky head gasket.
  • Okay guys, Computers, I can understand... Vehicle Repair/Maintenance... not so much. So, be easy on me, I'm tryin'.

    We have a 2003 Chevy Suburban. We bought it in 2005, so I don't have service records all the way back. I probably don't do as good a job of maintaining this thing because a.) I don't know how to do it; b.) I can't always afford it when it should be done (not a great money manager either). At this point, I'd rather try to learn how to fix it than ignore it and risk something happening to my family. It may be nothing, but I can't afford to pay someone to tell me if it is nor not, so here I am.

    Over the past week or so, my wife has been noticing a rattling sound coming from what she says is under the car, below the drivers seat. I just heard it for myself today and it really doesn't sound good. I have NO clue what I'm looking at under the car... just recently learned how to change oil and brakes - yes, I'm new to vehicle repair. Therefore, ANY advice (even if it's, "Dude, this is too much for you right now, take it to the dealership and figure out how to pay for it," is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks guys,
    David.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Makes noise when?

    Car not moving, engine idling?
    Car not moving, rev engine and rattling frequency change?

    Car moving, rattling in frequency with tire rotation?
  • Sorry, I guess that would have been helpful. It happens both when the car is moving and when it's just idling. I have noticed that it tends to become louder if the tach drops and revs back up to prevent stalling or when I'm applying gas (also causing the tach to rise). However, you can still hear it when idling.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hard to diagnose noises, through a pc monitor.

    I guess without hearing it, I might suspect a fuel pump, muffler baffle came loose, airshock pump (if you have that option).
  • I know its been years since you posted this but I am Having the exact same problem I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe w/ 60,000. miles . I've had the fuel pump changed the battery and alternator changed and the throttle cleaned. If you could please let me know what you did with yours. I'm to the point of deciding to either keep trying to fix it or just trade it in. Advice please, thank you :confuse:
  • my suburban keeps on turning off,it will turn on but it will only run for a while then it turns off.any ideas whats wrong with it
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,169
    931misty,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Were you planning on taking the vehicle in to be diagnosed? Please keep me posted on any updates.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I have an 03 Suburban 4 wheel drive. I've had it for almost a year now. Love the truck. Having weird sounds and looking for advice on what it might be. 1. Started with a clanking noise when I was turning (think 3 point turn). I don't know if it did it at higher speeds cause I never heard it. 2. Starting hearing this rattling sound when I accelerate. Goes away when I take my foot off the gas. 3. Now when I take my foot off the gas (highway speed) I notice a slight vibration, not in the wheel, but the truck in general. 4. This is probably unrelated but the AC blows cold when the truck is in motion, but when idling it is warm.
    Thanks for any guidance you can offer. My husband is out of the country currently so he can't look at any of this. It seems to be getting worse so I don't want to end up stranded with our 3 kids. Thanks!!
  • The dome lights in my 2002 Tahoe will not come on intermittently.
    They will not work if I try manually turning them on, or when you open a door, or when you turn off the ignition.
    When they are not working, the other problem i noticed is that the Horn will not sound, when you lock the doors with the remote - It is supposed to sound when you hit the lock button 2 times.

    When I am driving I will hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area.
    The lights will work after I hear the click sound.

    Not sure if it is related, but another problem that recently started, is when I turn the ignition off, the radio is supposed to stay on for 10 minutes, or until you open a door.
    It turns off as soon as the ignition is turned off - This is not intermittent, it does it all the time.
  • allante88allante88 Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    My 95 suburban stalls while sitting at a stop light . You can feel the rpm's surge and then drop to where the truck stalls . It does start up every time. Also , if I put the truck in gear , step on the brake and turn the wheel , it stalls . The first 5 minutes the truck runs it seems to be ok , after that it stalls. The dealer says they have no idea why and can't fix it . That cost me $200 . They say they can start replacing parts at my cost and no gaurentee that it will fix the problem . I also called GM with not much help from some woman on the phone who keeps calling the dealer for updates . I was told some "specialist" would call the dealer but that never happened . Any help would be much appreciated .
  • I would suspect a vaccum hose leak. This would affect the mixture with the greatest affect at idle. Sorry I can't be more specific as to where the leak is. Just go over all your vaccum hoses ad replace if you suspect they are cracked or leaking. If you do this it would be cheaper that the dealer doing the work. After that the failure would be somewhere in the intake manifold which starts to get more expensive.
  • My 2002 Suburban had a loud buzzing relay for the dome lights. I changed out the relay and about 2 weeks later the new relay failed by buzzing continously. Very loud.
    Any thoughts?
  • ili3ili3 Posts: 1
    I have the same exact issues with my 2001 Tahoe. Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?
  • Are you sure it is the Dome Light and not that small inch and half little speaker above your head? :)
  • The dome light is out and no problem with the speaker. Still have not found a solution
  • I was hoping someone could help me out. I have a 2008 Tahoe. For the last several months I have been having issues with the instrument panel. Every now and then when I turn the ignition on, my digital display on the instrument panel does not work. When this happens my other gauges like fuel, batt, oil pressure do not work properly. Everything else seems to be working just fine. Car starts and speedometer and tach work just fine. Sometimes it stays that way for a couple of days sometimes it fixes itself within few minutes. I have check the fuses and tried to see if there were any loose wires underneath the steering wheel area, but I have yet to find anything. There is no obvious thing that make the problem turn up, as well as when it fixes itself. Has anyone seen this before or does anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be great.
  • I am hopeful you'll receive some great insights from members of the Edmunds community. If you would like for us to check into anything (warranty/recall information), don't hesitate to send us the last 8 digits of your VIN via email at socialmedia@gm.com
    Best-
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
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