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Chevy Suburban

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  • I have a weird problem. The heat blows out the heater ducts and a little out of the vent. The defrost doesn't work at all. It doesn't matter what outlet I select. If I downshift to drive, then everthing works fine until the rpm/speed come down a bit. In town it never works.
    Any ideas or things to check?
    Thanks, MikeB
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Check your intake manifold for a vacuum leak. Many older GMs used a vacuum actuator to control duct venting.
    Also check the vacuum actuator, I'd bet you have a leak somewhere, just find it, and fix or replace the leaking part.
  • I just bought a 1998 Suburban yesterday. Very nice ride loaded 174,000 miles. I noticed one problem last night. When I open the doors I have no dome lights on the headliner but the lights on the doors all work except one. (Burned out I think haven't figured out how to change it yet.) Anyway I have tried pushing the dome light over ride button it does turn off the door lights but that is it. I took the cover off of the lights on the headliner bulbs are good tested the contacts with a multimeter. No power to the contacts. Not sure where to check next although all the fuses are good. Any ideas????
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Had a similar prob on my 03 Burb. It ended up being a blown fuse. In you interior fuse box, (the one on the drivers end of the dash) there are several fuses labelled TBC which stads for truck body controls. Pull them and replace the one thats blown. Good luck and hope this helps.
  • I am not sure how to post this on the GMC Suburban forum, so here goes, and yell away if need be :)

    I have recently acquired an '88 GMC Suburban, who runs wonderfully, but be it 50 feet or 50 miles it eventually gets very weak, engine light pops on and bam she dies. I've changed plug wires, inline fuel filter, and am getting ready to change the distributor cap, but any suggestions as to what is causing this would be much appreciated as I'm beyond baffled at this point and ready to sell the thing for scrap!
  • I have a 95 GMC suburban. When I set at a light or behind a school bus my engine light comes on. I have been told that it is the idle is too high at the times. I have even kicked the engine down when stopped and it still happens. Could this be a short somewhere or is this just the start of a big problem to come? :confuse:
  • Well that didn't take long...I came to this forum to see if I was the only one who's speedometer appears to be 120mph but really I'm only driving 35mph....Right when I start my suburban it reads 30mph?? Are you still having a problem? Our Burb is an 04 with 36,000 miles~ Would love to hear if anyone else is having this problem.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Read through older posts, this issue has been discussed, I believe IIRC, that the fix is a new instrument cluster. Good luck.
  • This just happened on my 04 Tahoe. I believe it is an instrument cluster problem and an easy fix. Should be covered under warranty if yours still applies.
  • I have a 03 Surburban. When I press the 4WD button it blinks a few times and then goes off, same with the Auto and 4WD lo button. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I have had a similar prob with my 03 Burb, at times, 4wd lights will blink, then I get a SERVICE 4WD message on the DIC. This message usually clears with an on/off cycle, then 4wd will work fine. If you find out your problem, let me know, I know mine will eventually get worse.
  • For those of us that have Vehicles that are 2003 or earlier, On Star service is not available after the end of the year. Depending on your vehicle 2004-2005, you may be able to get the service and 2007 are OK. This has to do with the FCC's stipulation about wireless companies being compliant from analog to digital by 2008. Unfortunately, On Star didn't take them seriously to spend the $$ to implement these changes in our vehicles until 2006, even though the consumers were footing the bill for the equipment. On the website (ONSTAR.com), there is more information about this. I just got my letter in the mail.... Just thought I'd share the wealth and a tip to the savvy investor, do you have any idea what this is going to do to there bottom line losing subscribers of all vehicles prior to 2003 and sporadic coverage for those owners of 2004/2005. I've thought about buying a module from a totaled 2006 Suburban and seeing if I could convert it work with my 2000 burb.
  • I brought it to the dealer and they said that my switch was broken
  • I wouldn't say that OnStar didn't take them seriously. The more likely reason for the carryover (and soon incompatible) systems in some vehicles is that they had already ordered and *paid for* XX of the modules in quesion, and had them in stock. It's nearly always more cost effective for the vehicle manufacturer to exhaust the existing supply of parts before putting in the latest design when both will fit the vehicle in question. A good example of this is that my 2007 Avalanche (early order / production) has the same tiedowns in the bed as the pre-2007 models (flip up/down, fold flat against the bedside when not in use). Models made later now have a completely different tiedown part (looks cheaper to make, and lacks the flip up/down / fold flat against bedside thing, if not necessarily weaker).

    Getting that out of the way, it still hurts the consumer. In many cases 2003+ models have an available upgrade through OnStar now (installed by dealerships) to fix the OnStar problem. But it also requires some sort of commitment to OnStar for at least a year (not up to date on the exact plan there). In other words, if you're willing to pay for a year or more in advance (even getting whatever special rate is in effect- so it's not costing any extra, just costing up front), you may be able to get your system upgraded at your dealership.

    And for those thinking of trying to swap out their own system for one from a junked vehicle, it is likely possible. I've read of other people successfully doing just this with their own vehicles.

    Good luck!
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    How much did they want for a new switch???
    Also, do you mean the actual in dash buttons/switch, or the actual actuator on the transfer case?
    thanks again for the info.
  • I have a '96 K1500. It has no lift, very standard. The tires on it are sized P245/75/16. I need new tires and am looking to put the biggest ones possible without making ANY modifications. A friend told me that I could put P265/70/16 on there and they would fit fine.

    Can anyone verify this?

    Thanks!

    Randy
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I have a 97-K1500, and the original sales brochures. All of the tire options are LT245/75R-16'x', even for the K2500's. There are tire calculators on a number of the tire websites, which will give you the dimensions of the different tire sizes. You can see how much bigger it would be.
  • Sorry I don't know for sure but I think it was the actual in dash switch. Through the dealer I paid about $350 total (parts/labor)
  • f1102f1102 Posts: 1
    i have a brake problem. i replaced rotors,drums,pads,shoes,calipers and the right front still grabs causing a pull to the right. when i use the parking brake to stop there is no pulling.what else could cause this.
  • joebasjoebas Posts: 20
    Folks, I'm about to trade in, anyone out there with 2007 LTZ? How do you like it??
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