Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Suburban

1246734

Comments

  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Virtually EVERY '03-'05 model of these SUV's has this problem, and it is extremely annoying. All came about when GM cheapened several components a couple years ago, one of those being the exhaust. Some have said it went away around 10k miles, others have had the dealer work on it and have gotten new exhaust systems that have either still made noise or been relatively quiet, and others, like us, have had the noise since day one and have just lived with it--but it is as loud as ever at 14k miles.

    On our '04 Suburban, as soon as it's warmed up, you can hear the LOUD popping from the exhaust both when driving slowly, and especially when stopped and idling. Our '02 Avalanche was absolutely silent, but this thing, as we refer to it, sounds like a "popcorn popper".

    Some have found the only true fix is to replace the stock system with an aftermarket cat-back one, but we have no desire to do so. If GM had an actual fix, we'd take it in, but as of now, it's still considered an "engineers still working on it" issue.
  • ed1369ed1369 Posts: 1
    My Chevy dealer has been searching for this problem for several visits. The on board computer keeps showing 2 lean codes, PO 171 and PO 174. The 2 rear
    oxygen sensors have been changed, along with the fuel pressure regulator about a week ago. Help please. ed1369
  • rlsharperlsharpe Posts: 3
    I've the same on '03 GMC Yukon. Friend noted one must cut off with a hack saw at the filter, then remove that from within the quick connect (really - how about disconnect) with a special tool. I found Ken-Co has a tool for this #3113, but sells only to pros. :)
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
    does anyone know a good restoration company that works on 1983 suburans

    any info is appreciated
  • chevyladychevylady Posts: 1
    My truck will start only after cranking for a little bit and then it will run for about a minute then die. It will start again the same way and die again. It will not keep running. My father-in-law and husband did some work on the electrical system to correct a problem with the tail lights blowing the fuse and seemed to fix that issue. This is when the running problem started. Do anyone have any ideas what might have happened or what could have gone bad.
  • jeff090jeff090 Posts: 1
    Anybody have any experience with mysterious voltage drops? Just sitting there, my 99 suburban will have a drop in battery voltage...10 volts +/- is not uncommon. I'll charge the batt or jump it and once started, the alternator gets to worl and volt meter shows about 16.5 or so. After a brief period it will get back in the normal range (14.5 or so) showing that it took the alternator's charge and things are cool. But let the car sit for hours and wham...it's back down again. It's not the battery...did the same thing with two different batteries. Cables appear to be okay, no problems with lights or switches. Any ideas what could be silently sapping my battery? Ignition switch? Other?

    Thanks
  • texnmantexnman Posts: 2
    I've got the same problem w/my 2004! I realized the "chirping" noise at about 33k miles. Seems to be coming from somewhere up front most of the time. I've heard it come from the rear as well. Recently the noise has been prolonged for about 2-3 seconds and has gotten louder. I thought maybe it was the wheels when in motion, but figured it wasn't when I heard the noise numerous times when idling in PARK. I've learned to tune it out but would really like to figure it out before this potential problem gets worse. :confuse:
  • koreanvetkoreanvet Posts: 1
    I have a '94, 2500 2wd, 6.5 with 240,000 miles that is still going strong as far as the eng and tranny. Have had a few electrical problems and the AC is not working after many repairs. Shakes and rattles but still a stump puller. Can jerk a 4500 lb tractor out of the mud thats sitting on the ground. Gets 21 mpg going down interstate and 15-18 mpg around town. Going to drive it another 10 yrs unless they come out with a diesel.
  • texnmantexnman Posts: 2
    I used to have a 2000 Chevy Silverado P/U and had the same problem with the gas pedal sticking. Fortunately at the time, mine was still under warranty, so the throttle body was replaced.
    As far as the difficulty level, I'm not too sure. But I would at lease attempt it along with the help of my Chilton's Repair Manual.
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with my 2000 model. I sprayed the backside of the idler pulley (beside the alternator) and it went away. every once in a while it chirps after idling. I am going to replace the pulley. they are $40 from GM. and are a known problem. hope this helps
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 with the same noise. you can also feel it on the floorboard of the passenger side. Is this normal?
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    Does any one know if a second row 2002 Tahoe bench seat will fit in a 2000 Suburban (new body style), I have to replace the larger section?
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    My brakes are new on my 2000 suburban They still squeak when going real slow. and only when first applied. Does anyone know what to do? Also how hard are the emergency brake to replace. at the rear wheels. It won't hold the vehicle and is not seized. Please Help!
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Should match right up to the mounting points already in your truck, just make sure the upholstery is a match. I've known of at least 2 other people who have "swapped" middle seats between a Tahoe and Suburban, and it went off without a hitch.
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    thanks for the info, I have the grey leather interior. or graphite they called it. I believe the one I'm looking at is the same color, but I will check the Vin with the dealer. Thanks again
  • burbmomburbmom Posts: 4
    Last weekend went and got the throttle body cleaner and my daughter removed the air intake and sprayed the cleaner in there and got all the gunk out and it worked like a charm.
    No more sticking gas pedal. Thanks for your info. = )
  • The National Highway Transportation Administration list a Service bulletin that is NHTSA Item Number: 10010375 or Service Bulletin Num : 3081 It's symptoms listed are: SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT AND P0300 WHEN TOWING, CRUISING UPHILL OR ON HARD ACCELERATION. Another site states you can get that a check engine light and misfire due to moisture in your Evap canister.

    EVAP - MIL ON/Engine Misfiring & DTC P0300 Stored

    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-024

    Date: June, 2000

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Engine Misfire, Water in Fuel, Service Engine Soon Lamp illuminates, DTC P0300 Set ( Replace EVAP Canister Vent Hose Asm/Replace EVAP Canister If Necessary)

    Models:
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra) Built Prior to August 31, 1999

    Condition
    Some drivers may comment about the Service Engine Soon lamp illuminating. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) may have stored a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0300, Engine Misfire Detected. The engine may be exhibiting a misfire, possibly in the # 7 and # 8 cylinders. This condition may also affect the six cylinder models. This condition may be more prevalent in areas with high amounts of rainfall.

    Cause
    Diagnosis of the fuel system may reveal the presence of water, possibly in the fuel rail near the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector. Water entering through the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister vent solenoid may cause this condition. Because of this, an engine misfire may develop.

    Correction
    A new EVAP canister vent hose assembly, P/N 15759042, that includes the valve and the solenoid has been developed to correct this condition.
    The new solenoid has a revised mounting bracket and a sealant has been applied to the top lid seal surface of the solenoid to address water intrusion. Use the procedure and the part numbers listed below.

    If standard diagnostics do not lead to the resolution of the misfire, do the following steps:

    1. Remove the fuel rail at the # 7 and # 8 fuel injector from the engine and drain the fuel into a suitable container. Inspect the drained fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.





    2. If the presence of water is detected in the fuel rail, remove the fuel tank and inspect the fuel for the presence of water. Refer to the Fuel Tank Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.

    3. If water is present in the fuel tank (other than from a water enriched fuel fill), replace the EVAP canister vent hose assembly. Refer to the EVAP Vent Valve Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.

    4. Disconnect the EVAP canister line connections and remove the canister. Inspect for the presence of water at the canister line connections and inside the canister. If water is present, replace the EVAP canister. Refer to the EVAP Canister Replacement procedure in the applicable Service Manual.

    5. Flush and clean the fuel system. Refer to the Fuel System Cleaning procedure in the applicable Service Manual.
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Umm something sounds fishy, My '99 had similar sounds that sounded more like a lose heat shield or a pice of tin flopping around. A few days later the transmission was gone! Pulled up to the stop sign, stepped on the gas and -no go! When it's cold crawl under it and see if it's the shield. When it warm hold a rag over the tailpipe and listen, step on the gas - listen, try putting trans in drive, park, reverse? Notice any change? Louder or quieter? If it's the converter itself there won't be much exhaust output and it could be plugged up! Converter - doubtful, Shield - not likely. If the nosie increases with motor's rpm's I'd look at the tranny. Spend $50 or so and get a new filter and fluid and open up the old filter and see what's inside. Good Luck!
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Have you changed the water pump lately? I changed my '96 and got the heater hoses backwards and after a few cold days with no heat I finally figured it out. Temp gauge was fine but no heat in the cab! Do-oh!
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Big time voltage drop there Jeff! Have you noticed anything starnge with the amp guage? I would get a good one if you don't have one already and see if anything happens while it's running. How about when your using certain electrical devices like - wipers, heater, lights, radio? Any change there? Have you added any new electrical devices lately? DVD? Inverter? It sounds like there's a unprotected 12v lead going straight to ground and periodically draining the battery. If the guage is indicating a massive drain, or even a VOM, start removing fuses one at a time and check to see if there's any change in voltage ir amps. Have fun!
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    I have no power window, door lock or courtesy light on the front passenger door. (not sure about mirror) Also the radio on till door open feature isn't working either after the ignition is turned off. I'm thinking it's a bag ground for the door or the door open switch is bad but I can't find either. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  • pdowneypdowney Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to reset the security system on a 2003 Suburban. As of today my car will nto start. The security light is blinking and when I try to start the car it won't start. The battery has juice, I think the security system is keeping it from starting but I do not know how to reset the passlock. Please help,
    Pdowney
  • jfast68jfast68 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Burb 4x4 1500 with 240k on the clock. It stumbles sometimes and seems to have a lack of power...sometimes it will totally fall on its face when I get on the gas..it even backfires from carb and exhaust sometimes. I have recently replaced fuel pump, air filter, plugs(which were really good looking) cap and rotor. I haven't done the fuel filter yet but will soon. What could this problem be..it dosent smoke or knock but just seems to have a lack of power and towing capability and the backfire thing. Could it be fuel filter..injectors, sensor etc? I mean the thing shouldn't have a problem getting to 60 fairly quick should it, seems that getting onto the freeway I have to really get into the gas to get it up to speed...I'm a newbie to these things so any info helps!!!

    :sick:
  • bbrown3bbrown3 Posts: 1
    I'm going to purchase one of the above in a K2500 (gas not diesel) and will be towing my Bobcat with it. My question is which model is most reliable. Assume they all have the same mileage and I don't care about values because I'm going to keep it till it croaks. I'm just interested in the best mechanical vehicle as I know there are differences in the years of manufacture. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
  • dsnywrenchdsnywrench Posts: 1
    I own 97 gmc 1500 suburban that just started same exact problem as you. It is the turn signal switch in steering column. Unfortunately part is between $200-$300 not including labor. I think i will just turn up radio until switch becomes inoperable altogether. I am a mechanic and was dumbfounded by symptoms, but a friend at gmc dealer helped diagnose problem. There was a recall announced recently by gm for newer suvs experiencing similar signal problems. Good luck.
  • pascalepascale Posts: 2
    I have coddled my 97 1500 for the past 8 years, 54,000 miles, even took it to an Island for 3 years, and now Im ready to buy a camper and wander a bit. Problem is that the trailer hitch weight is 585, and GVWR is 7500. The burb is rated at 500 hitch and GVWR is 5000. Am I doooomed to track down a three quarter ton or a V10 Excursion. Man I hate to let go. My local dealers are just plain greedy, buy this or this or this, and are less than helpful.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    GM earned five top model segment awards: Buick Century (premium midsize car), Chevrolet Malibu/Malibu Maxx (entry midsize car) and Chevrolet Suburban (full-size SUV).

    Toyota, GM Top J.D. Power Quality Survey (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • graysubgraysub Posts: 1
    If you go to link titleyou will find the BEST info on pulling an RV. This site includes trailer weights, towing weights, calculations. Do not beleive what anyone tells you, including a dealer, about weights. The trailer you are talking about is a little too heavy!...but there is hope...see it all on this site.

    99 Burb 1500 4X
    2000 Trail Harbor -- 380 tongue weight, 4160 dry and 7830 loaded. It pulls like a toy wagon with mine.
  • pascalepascale Posts: 2
    GRAYSUB, Thanks loads for the reply, I can't seem to get the link to open, and I am looking foeward to the info, can you give me the web page, and I will open it myself.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    Actually that site (RV Towing Tips) has a newer version here.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

Sign In or Register to comment.