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Chevy Suburban



  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Posts: 4
    I think that is a transmission oil cooler. No, you can't bypass it. After 12 years it may corroding or maybe vibration has caused it to leak.. See if a radiator shop can repair it.
  • I put new plugs and air filter in my Suburban in October. I had a new fuel pump / fuel filter put in my Suburban in November when it died in my driveway. Ever since then it sputters when I reach speeds of 40-48 mph. Once I get to 50 it runs fine. It also sputters sometimes when waiting at a light. I haven't taken it back to the garage as every time I pull it it's $100 for the diagnostic alone! Can anyone give me any ideas on what the problem might be. I'd like to be somewhat informed before taking it back to the garage again, as this is getting $$!
  • Sounds like your catalytic converter may be clogged. Does your suburban act like it doesn't have any power?
  • Hope you can help. 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT 1500 4x4. For a couple of weeks now the A/C hasn't worked, on Friday I had it re-gassed, there was only 2lbs in the system when there should have been 3lbs. Tried to get the A/C to cut in but no joy. The engineer said he had no idea why. I've bridge the terminals at the pressure switch and checked all the fuses and checked the relays (all OK) and can't get the compressor clutch to "Click in". Then somebody said, "Maybe it's because over the last month the temperature here in the UK has not been higher than 4 degrees, and having "Computer Climate Control” the A/C won’t kick in because the ambient temperature is too cold”, they also suggested maybe I need to re-set something after re- charging”.
    Any advice would be most welcome.
    Kind Regards
  • My suburban was squeeking really bad. So we replaced the the idler pulley and a new belt. It stopped queeking, but now it's making a terrible clicking sound. Sounds like something is stuck. We took the belt off and it didn't make the noise. put it back on and again it's clicking. Any ideas? I hate this car. We have replaced the water pump, radiator, battery, starter, plugs and wires. Fuel filter and air filter. New brakes and shocks. I don't know what else to do.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Take the belt off, and turn all of the accessories by hand, to find out what is clicking (with the engine turned off, of course).
  • When we purchased our vehicle this past summer there were apparantly mouse droppings in it unknown to me though! Well I found some droppings in it this winter time in my sons stroller seat, where all the crumbs go. So I started setting traps. I have killed 6 of them so far and almost 7 but he got away last night. They are on the inside as far as I know. I'm not sure how they are getting in, if there are new ones coming in every night (we live in the country), or if there is a nest. I know they are coming in from the front of the vehicle, the firewall area. Other then taking the dash apart I do not know what to do other then just set the traps every night. Being that I have two small kids though I do not want something to happen to the wiring and that cause troubles while driving. If anyone has any tips or advice it would be greatly appreciated! My husband has done numerous amount of work on the engine but never seen anything, as far as a nest. So we think it is on the inside, if it is indeed a nest. The car sat for a while before we bought it so I believe that might be part of the problem. But if anyone could help out it would be wonderful! Thank you! :confuse:
  • We are at a loss so I figured I would ask here. We had a squeak noise start up here several months ago. I have a 99 Suburban if that matters. It's not a loud squeak just a little one. My husband has replaced the belt, and it stopped for a little while. Then it started back. My husband replaced the alternator just for the squeaking to stop and come back in a couple of days. He took it to a family mechanic who said he found nothing wrong with it but he replaced the belt. It was good for a couple of days and the squeaking started back yet again. If we travel in the vehicle for a while the squeaking subsides, like longer trips that last along 20-30 minutes. But just running from place to place around town the vehicle continues to squeak. We are at a loss now but my husband is thinking it may be a bearing. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Do you think they're coming in thru the air ductwork?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the belt off (while the engine is off), and turn by hand each of the accessories. Turn them, as well as feel for front/back play or wobble. I've found I can usually detect which accessory or pulley is the culprit.

    Many times it's the belt adjuster pulley, but have also had a waterpump and alternator bad on different vehicles.
  • That was a possible thought. But they seem to be coming in down where the heater box is located on the base of the floor board.
  • That is what my husband did before he replaced the belt the first time. He heard a clicking in the alternator and that is why when the squeaking started back up he replaced that. But he didn't hear anything else making a noise in there even listening to things with a stethoscope
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That's the air ductwork I'm referencing.

    In the engine compartment, the air comes in up by the windshield, goes in thru the HVAC ductwork thur the air blender doors, and then into the passenger compartment.

    If you put your HVAC into re-circulate mode, it should close that fresh air inlet door (assuming they don't have some sort of nest or other garbage stopping that blender door from closing).
  • Ok! I'm not too good with my vehicle husband is that one! :)
    I will try that and see. Since I've caught 6 and there was a 7th one in there that got away....I think there is a nest but not 100% sure. I don't really see anything as far as I can look. We live in the country beside a corn field so they could just be coming from there.
    I set up 12 sticky traps and 9 mouse traps last night but nothing touched them.
    I will try that and see in the next couple days how everything goes!
    Thank you very much!
  • sslandysslandy Posts: 5
    I've got a 02 Suburban with 138k. The last couple of days, I noticed a roar from the front end (sounds like a plane is flying overhead). It is not real loud but I can hear it. If I shift into neutral while rolling along, it goes away. Comes back if I shift back into drive. Makes the same noise whether it is in 2 hi or 4 hi. Almost sounds/feels like it is in 4 hi but it doesn't complain about turning like it would if in 4 hi on dry pavement. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • Hello,
    I had something very similar with my Olds Custom Cruiser, it turned out to be the viscous coupling in the fan. Hope this helps, fingers Xed. :)
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    For a few weeks my Suburban 1500 4WD had electrical malfunctions. The dash lights wouldn't turn on or maybe the radio wouldn't. The information also would say unknown driver and needs 4WD service. Sometimes the windows wouldn't roll down or the door locks lock or unlock. One time it would fire up but then die and later that day started just fine. Also for a couple of years the key fobs haven't been able to open the locks. Now it won't stay running. It just starts quickly and then quits. My mechanic checked all the grounds and says they were okay but I stopped him from pulling the tank as the car does fire up instantly and runs a second or two. The air filter was also very dirty so he tried it with that removed. Also the voltmeter read very low for at least a couple of weeks though the battery seemed fine. I checked the voltmeter voltage but it runs off a lower voltage supply. The car has for 3 years or so had a very occasional low fuel pressure problem which necessitates me to shut down the engine and then hit the fuel tank bottom. Also if it sits for 12 hours with less than a 1/3 of a tank I may also have to hit the tank to start it. Before those fixes would work though the engine would only fire intermittently. I think though that those symptoms are possibly an errant fuel pressure regulator and that it's unrelated to this problem. I do live on a really rough road and the car takes a pounding every day. I did see a TSB GM 1 1982 08 Q3 08 that detailed most of my electrical problems but the cable under the drivers seat seems okay and moving it doesn't help. I've printed the electrical diagrams. Any idea where I should start?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What year Suburban is this?

    And can you elaborate on these statements?

    "Also the voltmeter read very low for at least a couple of weeks though the battery seemed fine."


    "I checked the voltmeter voltage but it runs off a lower voltage supply."

    If it were my car, I would have suspected a bad basic voltage problem (battery, alternator, loose/corroded connectors, etc) as the cause of your numerous electrical problems. You then indicate that you live on a rough road and the car takes a pounding.....and that could damage a battery internals.

    Take your car to an auto parts chain, most will do a battery and alternator load test for free (verifies that they are able to put out full rated voltage and current, while under severe load). If you need a battery, don't go cheap on the replacement, given your harsh drive environment.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    Thanks for the help. After I posted the message I decided to try a dealer and they fixed the problem within a couple of hours. I used to work in Electronics repair and I'm reminded of a standard joke we had about the problem being with the O.N. Slash O.F.F. switch. Sometimes we take ourselves (and our problems) too seriously and forget the fundamentals!

    I was actually driving the car for a few weeks without the fender inner-wall as the weather was so severe. That should have been the reason to fix it. Apparently the water and road salt combined and doused the bottom of the engine compartment fuse box. The service manager said that wires were corroded and there was water there. I was an electronics technician and since I knew the systems were controlled with a computer and that computers run on digital signals, I guessed that the voltages were fluxuating between states(0 volts and 5 volts). That was smart enough but any idiot could have surmised that having no inner fender would cause electrical circuits to be flooded and possibly cause problems. I laugh at people who worry about being shocked by 12 volts but should have considered signals being confused by saltwater.

    I repaired many sophisticated devices for years and found that much of the time the problem to be fixed does not require a lot of expertise, only a calm, clear, curious, logical, humble mind!

    Thanks again for the quick reply!
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    For those curious about my initial statements... If you were to buy a voltmeter and attach it to your car, the voltage across it's terminals would be from 11 to 14 volts or so depending on what the car was doing. Many meters, and specifically the one in my Suburban actually run on a lower voltage that is stepped down from the real voltage. They may actually run on a not purely proportional signal that simply designed to put the needle where the designers want it to signal what it was designed to signal. So another meter may not read the voltage at the meter that the meter is indicating when it's working properly. I've also heard that some pressure meters are designed to work this way though it's very annoying to purists who want accurate information.

    I also knew the meter was behaving badly because the car turned over easily and I had run it with this problem for quite a while and I had jump-started and charged the battery too.

    I also have a Chevy 1 ton capacity van 4WD conversion. It weighs about 3 tons and rides up our potholed driveway like a bucking bronco. The previous owner said he only got 3 years to a battery. Though the poor life is probably mostly due to infrequent usage and the way he wired in it's DVD players; I've put in one of those very expensive glass-mat batteries. Their literature says that they can be run dead, left discharged for some time and still have a reasonable life.

    I'm hoping that it will do well despite my camping deep discharge use, the very rough shaking my icy potholed driveway causes in the winter and starting my 8.1 liter engine. It's nice because connecting jumper cables to the van's side terminal battery was very difficult and risky but connecting to the glass-mat's batteries extra top terminals is sweet!
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