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Chevy Suburban

1235750

Comments

  • There are no special tools. The filter is located on the frame between the driver side front and rear door. There are not any tricks, just becareful when the line is disconnected, there will be some spillage. Other than that you are good to go.

    -DeaconLew ;)
  • Here's a new one for you!.
    About two months ago I noticed a "rattelling/squeeking" sound comming from under the front carriage of my 2003 suburban> Sounded like the "chirping" you hear from the brakes when worn but woulddissapear after 1/10th of a mile or so. No specific reason or conditions it would appear under but it was loud and very noticable. Had brakes, new tires, and front end redone- no luck! still there- ideas?
  • gkleegklee Posts: 1
    gfergie - My 1999 Suburban has the same thing going on...I replaced the combination flasher switch (under the dash) hoping for an inexpensive fix. The problem is still there...were you able to solve the flasher problem..if so, how?
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,627
    I have an '00 LS w/ 50k miles and about 2 months ago my throttle was sticking also. I went to a auto parts store and picked up an aerosol can of Throttle body/intake cleaner. I removed the air intake at the opening of the throttle body and sprayed the cleaner in while opening and closing the throttle. This fixed the sticking and haven't had any issues since.
  • burban93burban93 Posts: 2
    :lemon: a 4x4 surburban with good truck michlins tires is the best 4x4 u could have. one question though, if u live where there is snow, why did u buy a 2 wd surburban? trade yours in on a 4x4! good luck! :)
  • burban93burban93 Posts: 2
    i have a 93 2500 3/4 ton burban and i had a/c problems as well in the rear vents. after calling several mechanics and chevy dealers i found out it was an orphus tube or screen filter or whatever u want to call it, was probably plugged. i had no idea how to get to it nor what it looked like nor how to fix it really. i called ghent cheverlet here in greeley co. and the nice man explained the details and printed me out sheets from the computer that shows all the parts and how to reconnect them. i guess my advice to u is contact a respected delership and talk to the parts dept. to see if they could help you in the same way or try chilton books. i wish you luck i know i needed it! :)
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Usually they've been close to the transmission crossmember on the drivers side. The trick to relieve the pressure is locating the schrader valve on the fuel line near the top of the intake manifold. Then if your new fuel filter has threaded fittings on each end you won't need a fuel line removal tool. I'm not sure when Chev changed over but on my '03 Burb I needed a fuel line removal tool. Have fun!
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Well last night was the night! Not able to justify a $40 removal tool I made a quick trip to AZ and I'm bringing home a $10 fuel line disconnect tool. I relieved the pressure at the shrader valve and got the filter off no problem. The trouble was getting the hose off the filter. The connector was soo close to the can that the removal tool wouldn't get in there to release the quick clip. So I hack sawed it off between the hose and filter and was then able to get in there with my modified disconnect tool and some needle nose so I could remove the nipple from inside the hose. Only took me an hour but hey - it was time well spent!
  • mtbrtwmtbrtw Posts: 1
    I have several rattles in my doors on my 97, do I need to replace the seals to rid the problem?
  • We have a 2005 suburban with about 5K miles on it. When we stop the car (and sometimes while we are driving it) we hear popping and pinging noises coming from underneath. We have been told that it has to do witht he catalytic converter and the heat shield, and that it is normal, but the noise is awfully loud, and this just does not seem right...anyone have this experience, or can add any input? Thanks! :confuse:
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Virtually EVERY '03-'05 model of these SUV's has this problem, and it is extremely annoying. All came about when GM cheapened several components a couple years ago, one of those being the exhaust. Some have said it went away around 10k miles, others have had the dealer work on it and have gotten new exhaust systems that have either still made noise or been relatively quiet, and others, like us, have had the noise since day one and have just lived with it--but it is as loud as ever at 14k miles.

    On our '04 Suburban, as soon as it's warmed up, you can hear the LOUD popping from the exhaust both when driving slowly, and especially when stopped and idling. Our '02 Avalanche was absolutely silent, but this thing, as we refer to it, sounds like a "popcorn popper".

    Some have found the only true fix is to replace the stock system with an aftermarket cat-back one, but we have no desire to do so. If GM had an actual fix, we'd take it in, but as of now, it's still considered an "engineers still working on it" issue.
  • ed1369ed1369 Posts: 1
    My Chevy dealer has been searching for this problem for several visits. The on board computer keeps showing 2 lean codes, PO 171 and PO 174. The 2 rear
    oxygen sensors have been changed, along with the fuel pressure regulator about a week ago. Help please. ed1369
  • rlsharperlsharpe Posts: 3
    I've the same on '03 GMC Yukon. Friend noted one must cut off with a hack saw at the filter, then remove that from within the quick connect (really - how about disconnect) with a special tool. I found Ken-Co has a tool for this #3113, but sells only to pros. :)
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
    does anyone know a good restoration company that works on 1983 suburans

    any info is appreciated
  • chevyladychevylady Posts: 1
    My truck will start only after cranking for a little bit and then it will run for about a minute then die. It will start again the same way and die again. It will not keep running. My father-in-law and husband did some work on the electrical system to correct a problem with the tail lights blowing the fuse and seemed to fix that issue. This is when the running problem started. Do anyone have any ideas what might have happened or what could have gone bad.
  • jeff090jeff090 Posts: 1
    Anybody have any experience with mysterious voltage drops? Just sitting there, my 99 suburban will have a drop in battery voltage...10 volts +/- is not uncommon. I'll charge the batt or jump it and once started, the alternator gets to worl and volt meter shows about 16.5 or so. After a brief period it will get back in the normal range (14.5 or so) showing that it took the alternator's charge and things are cool. But let the car sit for hours and wham...it's back down again. It's not the battery...did the same thing with two different batteries. Cables appear to be okay, no problems with lights or switches. Any ideas what could be silently sapping my battery? Ignition switch? Other?

    Thanks
  • texnmantexnman Posts: 2
    I've got the same problem w/my 2004! I realized the "chirping" noise at about 33k miles. Seems to be coming from somewhere up front most of the time. I've heard it come from the rear as well. Recently the noise has been prolonged for about 2-3 seconds and has gotten louder. I thought maybe it was the wheels when in motion, but figured it wasn't when I heard the noise numerous times when idling in PARK. I've learned to tune it out but would really like to figure it out before this potential problem gets worse. :confuse:
  • koreanvetkoreanvet Posts: 1
    I have a '94, 2500 2wd, 6.5 with 240,000 miles that is still going strong as far as the eng and tranny. Have had a few electrical problems and the AC is not working after many repairs. Shakes and rattles but still a stump puller. Can jerk a 4500 lb tractor out of the mud thats sitting on the ground. Gets 21 mpg going down interstate and 15-18 mpg around town. Going to drive it another 10 yrs unless they come out with a diesel.
  • texnmantexnman Posts: 2
    I used to have a 2000 Chevy Silverado P/U and had the same problem with the gas pedal sticking. Fortunately at the time, mine was still under warranty, so the throttle body was replaced.
    As far as the difficulty level, I'm not too sure. But I would at lease attempt it along with the help of my Chilton's Repair Manual.
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with my 2000 model. I sprayed the backside of the idler pulley (beside the alternator) and it went away. every once in a while it chirps after idling. I am going to replace the pulley. they are $40 from GM. and are a known problem. hope this helps
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