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Chevy Suburban

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  • Need some advice! Has anyone tackled replacing the ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm on a 94 GMC Suburban? I just had the starter replaced for $398 and need to save some $$ so I'm wondering if I should tackle this job myself. I bought the Haynes manual and on a 1-10 scale of difficulty (10 being something like replacing a busted timing belt) this looks like about a 6/7.
    Should I jump on this or spend the $1,300 to have a mechanic complete?
    Thanks,
    Craig
  • gfergiegfergie Posts: 2
    GMC have made a mint from parts for my '99 'burb. I think it must have come off the line at 4:00pm on a Friday of a long weekend....
    The steering column turn signal cluster is a weak link in the electrical system. What appeared to be a simple flasher problem developed into a high priced (over-priced) turn signal assembly. GM will tell you different, however, they can't keep the parts needed for repair in stock in Ontario. What does THAT tell you?
    A friendly mechanic (GM) says, "you didn't hear it from me but...we replace that part on a regular basis".
  • brcoda11brcoda11 Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to program a keyless entry remote for 1996 chev. suburan. I bought an extra remote off ebay but didnot get program instructions. any help would appreicated.
  • piratedhpiratedh Posts: 2
    Intermediate drive shaft, the one right up against the firewall. Socket is worn. Try buying from OEM parts online instead of dealer and have a reputable mechanic/dealership install. Dealership charged $80 to install my part and now steering is tight again.

    2001 Suburban
  • piratedhpiratedh Posts: 2
    I have the same problem when slowing down (sometimes) and when making a sharp turn (often). Just had the Fuel Pump replaced because of recall and didn't go away. I'm replacing the fuel filter next and will update on what happens. Idle air control has been mentioned as well on other forums.

    '01 suburban
  • fjmfjm Posts: 1
    JUst got the bad news on Friday that ABS Module need to be replaced on my 2000 Suburban (70K) along with a related piston? Total price $1895. Needed because a ground fault is coming from module. Previous fix, which did not work, was replacement of a bolt, washer and nut that I believe the mechanic thought was causing the fault as indicated by the ABS and Brake dash light coming on. The replacement of this bolt might fix your problem. It is worth asking. I will be watching for other replys. I have a e-mail out to repair facility to see if they can fix the module and replace myself. good luck.
  • I have a 94 Suburban and have had lots of luck with Michelins MN series. I have 265/75/16's mounted and I'm getting about 70,000 miles on them. Excellent tires. There about $170per but considering the mileage I'm getting...worth every penny! Good luck.
  • dmark1dmark1 Posts: 1
    At times my 01 Suburban has really low idle speed. It is most noticeable when the AC is on. It drops to about 350 rpm and the AC does not work properly nor does the alternator put out well at such a low rpm. Sometimes it has an oscillation to the idle. Up, down, up, down between 350 and 500 rpm. If I hold the pedal down a little and hold about 500 rpm it all works fine. Any ideas as to a solution ?
  • winterswinters Posts: 1
    2005 Z71-4WD is my 5th Suburban. Last one was 5.7 '96 w/ 241,000 miles. Frequently drive in eastern mountains. 2005 does not hold back in 3rd or 2nd - must ride brakes to keep it from gaining too much speed for the turns. On cruise control on interstate will often jump from 1800 to 4500 rpm to maintain set speed - usually just at the beginning of a grade after coming down a slight incline. Even when in 3rd and running at 2800 it will still jump to 4500. This can't be good for the engine, and I know it is not good for economy. What do I do? Are aftermarket chips an answer?
  • gaustingaustin Posts: 1
    I just went through this problem with our 99 Tahoe. Our Tahoe had 110,000 miles on it. Most likely the Suburban won't start and I'll give you the cheapest easiest fixes first, chances are it is one of 3 things, a bad fuel pump relay: if it is, it costs about $15 and is located in the "under the hood" fuse box. Look under the fuse box lid for location of the relay. #2 The oil pump pressure switch/sending unit: you can determine this by unplugging the wire connector to the sending unit and jumping the 2 end terminals together it is a 3 wire connector. If the fuel pump starts which is identified by a hum from the tank then it is most likely the oil press/sending unit.#3 The wire connector to the fuel pump itself could also be bad, but this is difficult too because you have to drop the fuel tank to get to it also. I know the oil pressure switch/sending unit sounds unrelated but the wiring circuit to the fuel pump has a branch that is routed through the oil sending unit and it can cause the pump not to operate if it goes bad. The oil sending unit (OSU) is in a difficult location in the back of the engine under the distributor and it takes a deep socket to remove. The fuel pump, if it is actually bad, is a big job especially if you have a full tank of gas. It is usually best to remove the gas before trying to drop the fuel tank. Most tanks nowadays are difficult to get a siphon hose into. The fuel pump I bought cost $180 from an auto parts store and figure 2 or 3 hours of labor just depends on how good/quick they are. There are a few tricks to dropping the tank and there are some fuel line connector tools required but they are not expensive. If you do change the pump, you'll also need to change the fuel filter. After everything I said earlier, you may want to check that the fuel filter is not plugged up...it is a possibility, but I have never seen a plugged up fuel filter. I, of course, buy my gas at reputable places, but if you don't I guess it's reasonable to look at in addition to what I told you. Good Luck Hope this helps!
  • jimmyojimmyo Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and I know what it is (the retaining ring which sits on a spring inside the morror has popped off). The problem is I don't know how to fix it. Did you get any replys to your message post? The dealer wants to replace the whole mirror assembly for a couple hundred bucks.

    Thanks.

    Jim
  • trey915trey915 Posts: 1
    I know it has been over 2 months since you posted, but I figured I would let you know that your Chev dealer can pull up the expanded views and show you the parts so you can cross reference them. It is a little inconvenient because you have to actually go there, but they can also provide a print-out of the view so you will have them. Hope this helps.
  • e99e99 Posts: 1
    I have 99 burb with factory security system and when using keyless remote to kick in security nothing happens. It locks doors and will sound horn but never see the security flash or if open door no alarm. Am I missing something dealer suggest new keys did that no change. Now they suggest ingition switch replacement does that sound right. Any ideas would be helpful
  • ace918ace918 Posts: 3
    These are the instructions I received when I purchased my aftermarket remote, haven't had a chance typo test it yet.

    This requires a test light with an alligator clip lead on one end and a probe tip on the other end.

    1. locate the diaganostic plug located under drivers dash, usually a 12 pin black female plug.

    2. find a good ground, clip the test light to the ground. test the light by touching the tip of the light to 12v, the light should light.

    3. touch the tip of the light to the top far right pin of the plug, the power locks should jump ( cycle up and down). If the locks fail to cycle touch the the bottom right pin. the light should light as the locks cycle.

    3. as soon as the locks cycle, keep the light pressed to the pin and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the first (#1) remote until the locks cycle, may take 5 - 20 seconds. keeping the light connected, now take the # 2 remote and press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time till the locks cycle.

    4. remove the test light

    you should not have to re program the original remotes,but if you do just follow the above instructions and repeat step 3 once for the old and once for the new remotes.
  • ace918ace918 Posts: 3
    Does anybody have the instructions for programming a remote for a 2005 suburban, is it the same as my 1996 described already?
    Thank you
    Ace918
  • ace918ace918 Posts: 3
    Has anyone had a problem with the mirrors NOT returning to their proper position when the car is put in reverseand the self adjusting mirrors move to the "curb" view . my mirrors stay in this position after i shift into drive. This is a random occuring problem.

    I had this and other "electronic" problems on a 2002 Trailblazer i traded in on this Suburban, I hope the problems did not jump from car to car, as the problems in the trailblazer were never fixed. I really would hate to have to shoot this car as i love the blue metallic paint job.
  • mke1mke1 Posts: 3
    If you can grind out the rivets and have a floor jack to control the A arm you would earn an A to do it youself.
  • mke1mke1 Posts: 3
    My 99 has brake issues, 86k replaced radiator and fuel sending unit. Power door lock motors are crap. If the rear brakes work right then the front won't shimmy, 3 sets of rotors already.
  • Thanks mke1. I'm going to try this next week. I'm looking at purchasing a impact wrench to help with the job. Got any suggestions? Chordless/Electric/Air?
  • does anyone know if i can swap the second row fold down seats from a 1978 to a 1990...? thanks.
  • malibumanmalibuman Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Suburban with 44000 miles. It has a slight vibration at speed over 65 mph. Had new tires installed and drive shaft balance checked. The vibration does not increase or decrease with the gas pedal. Any ideas out there?
  • maleamalea Posts: 2
    Hi there! I just bought a 2002 Chevy Suburban 2500 on June 6. I have literally drove it 1 day and it has been in the shop ever since. It only has 52,000 miles on it, but it just dies in the middle of the road. I'm wondering does your battery light come on as it shuts off?

    I would love to get my sub back from the shop - any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
  • maleamalea Posts: 2
    When I purchased a 2002 Chevy Suburban 2500, it just had the remote start uninstalled. The lady said the vehicle would just die on her, going down the freeway, turning a corner, anything - just die.

    She said the problem was fixed, but unfortunately it isn't. Has anyone ever had problems with a remote start making a vehicle stall?

    After I coast to the side of the road, I put it in park, TAKE OUT THE KEY (it will not start if you do not take the key out), and drive away. Maybe another 15 - 20 miles, sometimes 50 miles and it stalls again.

    The shop has double checked the wiring, they say everything checks out on the computer, runs great. I told them to keep it until it stalls on them!!

    ANY IDEAS??? It has less than 60k on it.

    Thanks!!
  • mallthusmallthus Posts: 1
    I know this post was made some time ago, but it's still coming up on Google, so I thought I'd address it.

    The Duramax diesel is a new design direct injection diesel created and produced by DMAX, Inc., a joint venture between General Motors and Isuzu (itself a subsidiary of GM). It was introduced in 2001 model year GM trucks. It is, without question, the best diesel ever installed in a new GM light duty vehicle. Paired with the Allison 1000 series transmission, it's essentially on par with the current Ford Powerstroke and Dodge Cummins offerrings. Preference is as important as performance when comparing the three.

    That said, the '96 Suburban's diesel is a 6.5l Turbo Diesel based on the 6.2l diesel introduced during the 1980s. It was a pretty refined engine and, other posts notwithstanding, part of a fairly robust drivetrain by '96, when it was paired with the either the 4L60-e or 4L80-e transmission (I can't recall which). Before that, it was paired with the 700R4 transmission, which was a 4-speed version of the old TH-300 transmission. Early versions had MANY problems and it was always only barely adequate in V-8 installations. From a performance standpoint, it is an also ran in comparison to the Ford and Dodge engines. From this vintage, all light truck diesels liked to eat automatic transmissions, with the Dodge's the worst, followed by the GM. That the Ford's was best is really by default and not a testement to how good it is.

    Good luck!

    Mallthus
  • gregmiscgregmisc Posts: 17
    Dealer in Colorado Springs called me about replacing my fuel pump in my 1999 GMC Suburban for FREE. He said they were doing a study on fuel pumps used at higher altitudes. Has anyone heard of this or is this some kind of scam?
  • lrlwreathlrlwreath Posts: 1
    I currently live in Florida, we are going to be driving from Florida all the way up to Minnesota. We are looking at trading in our 1996 Suburban for a new one.

    Does anyone have any reccomendations on good dealerships. Because we don't NEED to purchase in Florida. How to I search what I want and different dealerships all over the US?
  • burbmomburbmom Posts: 4
    I also have a 2000 suburban with 63k miles on it and was having trouble with it stalling at various times during the day and not everyday. This started within 2 weeks of having the 60k service performed on my burb including fuel injectors cleaned and transmission being serviced.

    I recently received a letter from chevy stating that there might be a problem with certain 2000 suburbans and a recall will be coming. It states that on some of these suburbans that the fuel module reservoir assembly that contains the fuel pump wires and / or connectors may overheat under certain operating conditons. This condition may result in one or more of the following conditions: 1) an engine stall or no start condition due to a blown fuse, 2) inaccurate fuel level readings, and /or,3) a service engine soon light. A service engine soon light might be an indication that fuel vapor, or in some other cases liquid fuel, may leak out of the top of the fuel tank when the level is above 3/4 full.
    They also state that if the condition is due to overheated wiring in the fuel module reservoir assembly that your dealer will repair with existing parts, as repair kits are made available at a later date.They will be sending another letter out to let you know when that will be available. Chevy assistance center 1-800-630-2438 8 am - 11 pm.
    Long story short, I called my service advisor at my local chevy dealer and was told to bring it in for an inspection free of charge.
    I was told I had a bad fuel pump and the service advisor fought with chevy management and was told to replace it if they had the parts (which they did) otherwise it would have been $800 out of my pocket.
    If you go to www.nhtsa.dot.gov I think you can find more info on it there. Sorry this is so long! Hope this helps!! Maybe you can get some compensation also.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,651
    I received the same letter. I have a 2000 burb w/ 53,000 miles. I don't have stalling problems, but my fuel pump makes a loud whining noise when it's hot out. Here in Kansas it has been in the mid to high 90s with low 100's the next few days. It really gets nice an loud in this type of weather.

    I think I'll give my dealer a call to see when the recalled parts are available. I'm going to try to have them replace the fuel pump at the same time and see if they'll cut me a break on labor, since the tank has to be pulled for the recall anyway.
  • rbssuvrbssuv Posts: 1
    I hope you find a solution to this problem. My 01' suburban does exactly the same thing.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Well, we've now passed the year mark and 20k miles with the '04 Suburban LS 2wd we traded our '02 Avalanche Z66 for. It's been a mostly positive experience and, honestly, the Suburban is a much better fit for our needs and uses in a vehicle, but not all is grand.

    For example, while the Av only ever went in for repair twice, the first being a rearview mirror glass that cracked on a cold night and one foglight that filled with condensation, the Suburban has been back quite a few times and will need to again soon, for at least one or two other issues.

    Problems to date, with the Suburban:
    -Terrible loud creaking and rattling in driver's side rear quarter panel, fixed, mostly, by repositioning some insulation, the wheel well liner, and the jack
    -Lightbulb just rolling around in the passenger's door instead of being in the bottom reflector light socket--simple fix
    -Gas gauge started going funny and would either do a dance or stay on full for weeks at a time, a problem they fixed by dropping the tank and putting in a new sender unit
    -While changing the oil one day, noticed a large area around the transmission was wet and then found that the transmission was, in fact, leaking. Drained the fluid, replaced a seal, and put new fluid in.

    Current, unresolved issues:
    -Lately, wipers are now nuts, going in all sorts of speeds when just on the first delay notch.
    -Tachometer still buzzing loudly as it has been from day one, but it works, so we never pay much attention.
    -When turning, the rear locking diff. (we think...) clunks and pops.
    -Occasional funny creaking/rattling, still, from the same quarter panel area in the rear. 95% of the time, it's silent, but occasionally, and weirdly, it still does it.

    Things that still bug me:
    -The Av had the firmer Z66 suspension with the Bilsteins in front and load levelers out back, plus larger tires, and, I still think, rode MUCH better than this Suburban. In actuality, the Suburban's cheapo shocks and smaller 16" wheels actually give it a cushier feel, but once you hit some bumps, it floats a little too much and tends to crash over cracks and ruts that the Av just glided silently over.
    -Structure not as stiff as the Avalanche's (I knew this beforehand) and it's clear after owning both. Where you could crash over bumps and not feel a wince in the structure or suspension in the Av, the Suburban feels more unsettled and you hear tiny creaks/rattles in the structure.
    -BOSE 6-CD system sounds pretty pathetic for what it should be, and not even as good as the base Delco system the Av had, IMO.

    Overall, not a lot of big problems, but highly annoying after coming from an Av that's essentially the same truck, but without any of the problems. Still really enjoy it, especially the Summit White paint (SO, SO much easier to care for than the Av's Onyx Black), the 8-passenger seating, the rear AC, and the much improved, though still not great, brake pedal feel over the '02 Av. Just crossing my fingers it doesn't really start falling apart after the warranty runs out at 36k, because there will be no trading this one in for a new one anytime soon...
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