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Chevy Suburban

1568101150

Comments

  • joliver1joliver1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Suburban LT and have been having electrical problems. First it was the 4-wheel drive (service 4 wheel drive light came on, would be in 4 wheel low when I started the car - never used the 4 wheel drive to this day), then the fuel gages, speedometer, tachometer, miles to empty and radio/hvac presets all went crazy. Still are. Been in the shop 8 times. Filed a lemon law complaint through the BBB. BBB agreed with me there was electrical problem but I received the notification to late and GM "declined to accept" the decision of the BBB. GM has not offered one thing to help me. If anyone else is dealing with these issues I would love to hear about it.
  • mlinggamlingga Posts: 58
    Have a 2000 2WD. Have had Bridgestone Dueler H/L UniTaq tires, over 50K miles, with treat now for another 10K. Outperformed the OEM Firestones. I've been happy.
  • mlinggamlingga Posts: 58
    Have a 2000 2WD LS with 105K miles, 80% highway. Has been great, only significant repair was replacement of two injectors. I want to try and get another 50K/2 years out of it, but reliability is very important to us. It's had just usual "book" maintenance but what additional measures could I take to reduce risk of breakdown and keep performance up? It's due for A/T fluid/filters, fuel filter, new plugs, but in addition I've thought about:
    serpentine belt, water hoses, PCV valve, shocks, water pump. Do any or all of these make sense? Other suggestions?
  • sharrsharr Posts: 1
    Looking at purchasing a 1999. Started doing some web research and ran across all sorts of brake and tranny problems....are these inherent to the Suburban or am I seeing just a small spectrum of owners? Any insight would be much appreciated. I'm dumping a '95 4Runner that has been nothing but trouble since 70K mi...want to get into something that won't have me at the dealership every other month!
  • aj76aj76 Posts: 3
    My dealer just replaced my a/c compressor and belt tensioner and the problem is gone.They replaced this under warranty even though I was 6,000 mi over but it was only 2 yrs old. At replacement I had 42,000 mi's .There must be some problem in this part because it should not fail so early. Good luck.
  • malibumanmalibuman Posts: 2
    I have an '02 Suburban that vibrates at speeds above 60 mph. The vibration is mild and can be noticed best if there is a bottle of water sitting in the cup holder. The vibration is steady and the pitch doesn't change with acceleration. Even if the tranny is switched into neutral while at speed the vibration remains the same. It starts to grind on you on long trips. I replaced the tires and had the drive shaft balance checked. Still no change. There are only 45000 miles on this rig. Any ideas out there?
  • zumzumzumzum Posts: 1
    I have a 96 suburban with rear air. R134a system. Checked the pressure with a guage I bought from O'reilly's. pressure read slightly over 45 pounds, engine was really hot max a/c on. Is this pressure right for a dual air system, or should it be higher. Air just doesn't cool the burb, takes a long time but the instructions that came with the gauge says the pressure is right to a little high. Also when i push in the max ac button on the dash, the velocity of the air coming out of the ducts does not change, is this common on the suburbans.
  • rshookrshook Posts: 17
    2000 Suburban bought new, at 50K miles, fuel pump was whining very bad so dealer convinced me to pay to replace the pump before failure: $800-900. Soon after this, the ABS / Brake light comes on intermittetly. Assessment: The BCM (brake control module) is going bad. Figure on about $1200 per the dealer.

    Question: I have heard of many similar cases of the fuel pump issue and failures while driving on interstates thus no power steering or brakes - SAFETY ISSUE! The BCM is also a failure that just shouldn't happen ( you still have brakes but no ABS control). Is anyone aware of a TSB, warranty, recall, action being taken to get GM to cover these issues?
  • My truck does the same thing, I did not get the drive shaft balanced so now I know not to do that, mine is so slight though that I really dont mind. Mine is a 1994 1500.
    Also I need a new driver seat for this truck, does anyone have a direct bolt in for the 1994 Chevy Suburban?
  • johhnyjjohhnyj Posts: 2
    I have the '99 that was th Towing nightmare on previous thread. It turned out to be the oil in the K&N oil filter clogged an air intake sensor and became the root of my problem. Cleaned sensor and the problem was solved. I have loved the 1999. Tranny and 454 are A-OK. 135K miles. What model are you looking at?
  • Need some advice! Has anyone tackled replacing the ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm on a 94 GMC Suburban? I just had the starter replaced for $398 and need to save some $$ so I'm wondering if I should tackle this job myself. I bought the Haynes manual and on a 1-10 scale of difficulty (10 being something like replacing a busted timing belt) this looks like about a 6/7.
    Should I jump on this or spend the $1,300 to have a mechanic complete?
    Thanks,
    Craig
  • gfergiegfergie Posts: 2
    GMC have made a mint from parts for my '99 'burb. I think it must have come off the line at 4:00pm on a Friday of a long weekend....
    The steering column turn signal cluster is a weak link in the electrical system. What appeared to be a simple flasher problem developed into a high priced (over-priced) turn signal assembly. GM will tell you different, however, they can't keep the parts needed for repair in stock in Ontario. What does THAT tell you?
    A friendly mechanic (GM) says, "you didn't hear it from me but...we replace that part on a regular basis".
  • brcoda11brcoda11 Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to program a keyless entry remote for 1996 chev. suburan. I bought an extra remote off ebay but didnot get program instructions. any help would appreicated.
  • piratedhpiratedh Posts: 2
    Intermediate drive shaft, the one right up against the firewall. Socket is worn. Try buying from OEM parts online instead of dealer and have a reputable mechanic/dealership install. Dealership charged $80 to install my part and now steering is tight again.

    2001 Suburban
  • piratedhpiratedh Posts: 2
    I have the same problem when slowing down (sometimes) and when making a sharp turn (often). Just had the Fuel Pump replaced because of recall and didn't go away. I'm replacing the fuel filter next and will update on what happens. Idle air control has been mentioned as well on other forums.

    '01 suburban
  • fjmfjm Posts: 1
    JUst got the bad news on Friday that ABS Module need to be replaced on my 2000 Suburban (70K) along with a related piston? Total price $1895. Needed because a ground fault is coming from module. Previous fix, which did not work, was replacement of a bolt, washer and nut that I believe the mechanic thought was causing the fault as indicated by the ABS and Brake dash light coming on. The replacement of this bolt might fix your problem. It is worth asking. I will be watching for other replys. I have a e-mail out to repair facility to see if they can fix the module and replace myself. good luck.
  • I have a 94 Suburban and have had lots of luck with Michelins MN series. I have 265/75/16's mounted and I'm getting about 70,000 miles on them. Excellent tires. There about $170per but considering the mileage I'm getting...worth every penny! Good luck.
  • dmark1dmark1 Posts: 1
    At times my 01 Suburban has really low idle speed. It is most noticeable when the AC is on. It drops to about 350 rpm and the AC does not work properly nor does the alternator put out well at such a low rpm. Sometimes it has an oscillation to the idle. Up, down, up, down between 350 and 500 rpm. If I hold the pedal down a little and hold about 500 rpm it all works fine. Any ideas as to a solution ?
  • winterswinters Posts: 1
    2005 Z71-4WD is my 5th Suburban. Last one was 5.7 '96 w/ 241,000 miles. Frequently drive in eastern mountains. 2005 does not hold back in 3rd or 2nd - must ride brakes to keep it from gaining too much speed for the turns. On cruise control on interstate will often jump from 1800 to 4500 rpm to maintain set speed - usually just at the beginning of a grade after coming down a slight incline. Even when in 3rd and running at 2800 it will still jump to 4500. This can't be good for the engine, and I know it is not good for economy. What do I do? Are aftermarket chips an answer?
  • gaustingaustin Posts: 1
    I just went through this problem with our 99 Tahoe. Our Tahoe had 110,000 miles on it. Most likely the Suburban won't start and I'll give you the cheapest easiest fixes first, chances are it is one of 3 things, a bad fuel pump relay: if it is, it costs about $15 and is located in the "under the hood" fuse box. Look under the fuse box lid for location of the relay. #2 The oil pump pressure switch/sending unit: you can determine this by unplugging the wire connector to the sending unit and jumping the 2 end terminals together it is a 3 wire connector. If the fuel pump starts which is identified by a hum from the tank then it is most likely the oil press/sending unit.#3 The wire connector to the fuel pump itself could also be bad, but this is difficult too because you have to drop the fuel tank to get to it also. I know the oil pressure switch/sending unit sounds unrelated but the wiring circuit to the fuel pump has a branch that is routed through the oil sending unit and it can cause the pump not to operate if it goes bad. The oil sending unit (OSU) is in a difficult location in the back of the engine under the distributor and it takes a deep socket to remove. The fuel pump, if it is actually bad, is a big job especially if you have a full tank of gas. It is usually best to remove the gas before trying to drop the fuel tank. Most tanks nowadays are difficult to get a siphon hose into. The fuel pump I bought cost $180 from an auto parts store and figure 2 or 3 hours of labor just depends on how good/quick they are. There are a few tricks to dropping the tank and there are some fuel line connector tools required but they are not expensive. If you do change the pump, you'll also need to change the fuel filter. After everything I said earlier, you may want to check that the fuel filter is not plugged up...it is a possibility, but I have never seen a plugged up fuel filter. I, of course, buy my gas at reputable places, but if you don't I guess it's reasonable to look at in addition to what I told you. Good Luck Hope this helps!
1568101150
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