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Chevy Suburban

1679111234

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  • I just got my 02 suburban back from the shop and it was doing the same thing. I had good fuel pressure, but the fuel pump was shutting down. Most of the time it would do it when i went to pass someone. It turns out that the fuel pump was bad. I had it replaced yesterday and so far no troubles.
  • phildephilde Posts: 2
    i am looking at a 99 gmc 2500 s-burb... i know nothing about them really . have a car service , to the airports so i will use ut for that and to tote around bike , kayak, outdoor stuff, home depo etc.. etc... anyway what should i look at- for ... any advice... its a good price , but has high, 150 g, miles... what do you all think.? thanks phil de
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    Another thought I had is that the fan clutch is engaging in hot weather even when the engine is cold. But I'd have a transmission mechanic check the noise for sure.
    S.
  • We have a '99 Suburban that is pulling to the right when the steering wheel goes from the 12 o'clock position to the 1 to 2 o'clock position. What happens is that the vehicle feels as if it wants to pull to the right so you need to comensate the steering wheel so that the vehicle will not pull to the right. Once you are past the 2 o'clock position it is fine.

    This does not happen going to the left. We have had the alignment checked, the steering box and a pitman arm replaced and it still has this problem. Any suggestions on what this could be and what might be done next? The mechanic said that everything is tight on the front end.

    Thanks for the help.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Forgive me if I'm not seeing the big picture, but...isn't a vehicle supposed to pull towards the right when you turn the steering wheel from 12 to 1 or 2 (essentially, the steering wheel is rotating in a clockwise motion)? Or are you saying that you can see the steering wheel turn to 2 o'clock by itself, with a subsequent veering of your vehicle towards the right?

    Did you check your tires/wheels to see if either/both are true? Nothing wrong with the rear axle/tires/wheels?
  • wccwcc Posts: 1
    My 88 Suburban did this and it was the radiator cap. Check for cracks in the rubber gasket.
  • wclark3wclark3 Posts: 3
    WENT TO THE DEALER TODAY TO HAVE MY SUBURBAN WORKED ON TODAY THEY FOUND A BAD BEARING IN THE FRONT DRIVE DIFFERENTIAL IT DID NOT MESS UP ANYTHING ELSE . DO YOU THINK THE LOCK NUT COULD HAVE BACKED OFF A LITTLE
  • greetings all,
    went to fold in my mirrors today and the passenger one just 'went floppy'
    no tension.
    i can't figure out how to remove the glass to get in there to fix the cap on the spring or to see what is wrong....

    any help appreciated!
    thanks,
    brian
  • Hi Guys,

    I am a Canadian owner of a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 LT and we have a serious problem with the vehicle. It stalls while driving on the road and by doing that it can cause a very serious danger on the road. I found on the internet that there is an recall for the 2001 Chev. Suburbans but the recall is only for US owners of the Suburban (316508 vehicles). The same for the Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado etc. I can't imagine that only US owners have that problem since all the vehicles are built in the same plant and should have the same potential problem.
    I also can't imagine that Canadian lives are less valuable as US lives in the eyes of GM, although it seems like it.
    Are there any Canadian owners of a 2001 Suburban or any other GM vehicle that have the same problem among you ? Maybe we can join forces and do something about this injustice. :mad:
  • I just bought my (new to me) 1998 Chevy Suburban/1500/5.7v and the positive side of the battery post is loose. I have tightened it and previous (original) owner said he had problem too with it coming loose. Any fix? It is a new battery. I did order a new brass fitting for it (hasn't come yet) someone said it is better. Any help :confuse:
  • Remember 195 stat is when it starts to open for coolant, not when its fully open. You might try a 185 stat so it opens sooner. Its easier to keep an engine cool than to try to cool it down. Also, after a year of coolant being in there, I would replace it and run 60-40 on the coolant (more water) and replace the the radiator cap too.
  • Battery posts tight?
  • I just bought a 2000 Chevy Suburban LT to replace my 1979. I am having a very similar problem. Overnight or or less time the battery dies. I've tried multiple batteries and been told that the alternator is fine. The second shop I took it to said that the BCM (Body Control Module?) was going bad. They claimed that when I used my key fob to (un)Lock the car doors it would go into "Wake" mode and never snap out. This would drain the battery. We reset the BCM by disconnecting the Com battery terminal and I opted not to used the fob any more. The next morning it was dead again! They also told me that they could not replace the BCM, only dealers with the proper programming tools could. (This was before he took my $80.) I took it into the dealer this morning and he is tracing the drain. He wanted to trickle charge it up overnight and he'd let me know tomorrow. I'll post what they find, otherwise if you have any info..... Share the wealth!

    I just put my 79 in the newspaper today - Like I told my wife, one looks and feels great sitting still, the other looks rough but runs! :)
  • I believe that it's not really the price of the pump that is driving the cost but the labor involved to fix it. My understanding is that they need to drop the fuel tank in order to fix this and that cost is at least $350. The only reason that I know this is because I have a leak on the top of my fuel tank and will need to get it fixed and they told me that this is what it will cost me just to drop the tank and find the leak. I do have a buddy with a 2000 Burb LT and he had a similar prob to mine and said that the tech recommended that he replace the fuel pump while the tank is off. His total bill was right around $800. Good Luck!
  • I'm going to side with abbottchapel - I have Michelin LTX M/S. They were on it when I bought my 2000 last month. I've put 1500 miles on it and will buy then again when needed. They are kind of spendy $210/tire (I have the 6 ply) but well worth it for the ride and 70,000 mile warr. See more here:

    http://www.michelinman.com/catalog/tires/MichelinLTXMS.html?tiretype=5&tire=1
  • Walmart - Dual Screen DVD player that convienently attach to the head rests. Complete with headphone jacks and one can watch a DVD while the other plays a video game. Buy a set of standard RCA jacks and you can hook the DVD player into the hotel TV! Complete with a handy travel bag, all for $238!

    Now all you need is popcorn and Barney... depending on how old the kids are... or was this for your wife? :blush:
  • As an FYI, Here is a link to the recalls on your 2000 (or any year for that matter) including the Fuel Pump wire Harness. I just looked it up for mine too.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm
  • tezmaritezmari Posts: 3
    I have this same problem with my '04 2500 - 8.1 burban LT, I've had it for 1 year. The first time this happened less than 500 mi on the odometer, the dealer said it was a defect with the fuel pump at high altitudes. Dealer replaced the fuel pump with a "redesigned" pump that would solve this problem. The second time it happened - same repair - dealer replaced it with one that "addresses high temperatures AND high altitude" - Just had it towed to the dealer yesterday for the same problem - approx 500 miles later - we called Chevy - they report not being aware of this problem, will "research" it and will get back to us! I will let you know what they say. Good luck
  • tezmaritezmari Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem,'04 2500 LT except it was my stereo and clock that would keep resetting. after three times in the shop trying to figure it out, the dealer replace my stereo system. no problems since.
  • tezmaritezmari Posts: 3
    ('04 2500 LT burban) I haven't heard of the study and the CSPGS dealer has replaced my pump 3x. I'll ask my service rep about it.
  • pauld1pauld1 Posts: 1
    Jeff, I'm having the same issue with my '93 and my mechanic is stumped. We're looking at running a test on the instrument cluster.
  • If your driving down the road and take your hand off of the steering wheel and the vehicle continually pulls of to the right all by itself no matter what than you have 1 of 2 problems (or a combination of the both of them).

    1. You could have what is known as a RADIAL PULL,.. this happens when the belts in the tire are not correct within the tire. A quick check would be to take your front 2 tires and swap them left to right and right to left. If your vehicle stops pulling to the right you have found the problem.

    2. The other explaination is your vehicle needs a front end alignment. Your CASTER angle adjustment is off. this could come from hitting the curb with some force or a bad chuck hole. In the alignment process the R/S adjustment is always more positive than the left (usually by 1/2 a degree or so) this is intentionally done so as to compensate for the crown in the road.

    Try the tire swap first and if doesn't cure the problem go to a reliable front end shop and have your alignment at least checked. Caster is a NON-tire wearing angle of adjustment. If your noticing the inside or outside tread of your tires wearing out more than the rest of the tire then that is called the CAMBER angle and it WILL wear out your tires. Normally if one angle changes,.. it will effect all of the angle adjustments ( IE: Camber, Caster & toe -in )
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    One very little known but amazingly excellent tire is NOKIAN. It is a small European company but has made car tires and other rubber products for decades. Their main tire type is a winter tire, which has let them to develop very good grip rubber compounds with excellent wear resistance.

    The best tire for the kind of driving you described in my opinion is Nokian WR. It is an all season tire with just superion grip in wet and snow and of course on dry. Rides really smooth and makes noticeable improvement in car handling.

    I had a set of Nokian NRZi tires in my Crown Victoria and put 35 000 miles on them. The owner after me put another 15 000 miles on them. Not bad for a Z rated tire! These tires had grip like no other tire I have ever seen. For example, I was not able to spin the wheels of my Crown Vic on wet pavement when the original Michelin Symmetry tires on the car would spin really easily but still wore out in 30 000 miles.

    Since there is no Nokian dealer in the area where I live I could buy the tires direct from their importing warehouse in LaVergne, TN. The NRZi tires cost about $110 per tire. Nokian NRV tires that I purchased for my wife's Grand Am were $108.

    My friend purchased Nokian WR tires by my recommendation for his '03 Suburban last winter and he loves them. He lives in Wisconsin so he gets to drive in snow too. They cost $125 a piece.

    I purchased Nokian Vatiiva tires for my Tahoe last fall but did not like them as they made a little bit too much noise. These tires were much better for handling than the Bridgestones that the truck came with. The biggest improvement was in stopping distance, which with Bridgestones can be really long.

    I will buy a set of WR tires for my Tahoe in a couple of months.

    --Arrie--
  • i got the same letter from chevy, too, so i took mine to the local dealer. they had never heard of the problem, so they checked it out and found nothing. the most frustrating things are the lack of info the dealer has and the lack of solution stated in the letter by chevy. my pump has a very loud high pitched whine to it....don't know if it's related?????
  • tpalentpalen Posts: 3
    I installed a new fuel pump in my 1999 Suburban. After installing and putting the fuel back in the tank (3/4 of a tank) I am getting a reading on the fuel gage of only 1/4 of a tank. Not sure what to do or if this will go away with a top off of the tank.
  • tpalentpalen Posts: 3
    Just replaced mine yesterday and the new pump at Auto Zone was $248.00.
  • tpalentpalen Posts: 3
    Could be a lose gas cap. try replacing the gas cap and make sure it is tight.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,651
    Goose,

    I talked w/ my local chevy dealer regarding the letter and they said a recall hasn't been issued yet. The letter was merely to inform owners of the fuel pump/wiring problem and the associated symptoms and that a fix is on the way. Once the solution is available, the recall will be issued.

    My fuel pump makes a very load whining noise and I plan on replacing it when the recall is issued. From what I understand, the tank will need to be dropped to fix the wiring problem, I'm going to see if the dealer will cut me a break on labor if I have them drop a new pump in.
  • I picked up the burb from the dealer... He isn't sure. I read in another post about a bad radio - Who knows. I decided to juice the battery up all the way and I pulled about 10 fuses, Radio, power seats, heated mirrors, etc - Anything that has larger draw and could be used when vehicle is off. I'm going to put the fuses back in 1 or 2 at a time and monitor when this occurs. I usually can't get more than a day out of the battery so if I put one in and the volt meter is on the high side of 14, I'll assume that isn't the circuit.

    If anyone has seen this problem before, let me know.. Thanks!
  • Can anyone enlighten me as to the differences in Models LT, LS, LSE, AND SLT?

    Also, What is the performance difference between a low altitude & high altitude Diesel 6.5 engine, if any?
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