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Cold Weather Problems



  • That I don't know...that also sounds suspicious to me...maybe you should try another dealer.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    When I owned my Pathfinder I used Brown and Brown Nissan in AZ for parts. Prices were much less than the local dealers and the parts guys knew their stuff-once they told me that all I needed was a $4 part instead of the $70 part I originally requested...
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Just contacted Beck and Arnley, they make the most expensive gasket set($97) and it's available in AutoZone, they say that all six spark plug tube seals are identical and that Nissan upgraded the dsign at some point and their part matches Nissan specifications. I guess I am good but yes I will go to a different dealer and inquire there. Thanks for your help.
  • nycqnycq Posts: 3
    Recently in January my Maxima stalled and was towed to the nearest dealership they ran the diagnostic and then replaced the MAF then the IACV...the car after that stalled once but I was able to drive it. Yesterday the check engine light came on again .I got a preliminary diagnositc code from Autozone Idle control system..and then the car stalled again.. Some mechanic were in the parking lot of Autozone and they raised the idle higher . The car is running didn't stall after that but the check engine sign is still on...Please help ....I been back and forth with the dealer who is not very helpful...and costing me $$$ what do u think is wrong
  • uwestefuwestef Posts: 2
    I have a cold start problem on my '98 maxima. The engine gets started but shut off right after starting. This happens only when the car sit outside overnight, but could happen any time of the day, morning, afternoon or evening.

    What's interesting is this:
    Yesterday when I could not get the engine started, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and then I was able to start the engine without the fuse on. Then I turned the engine off and put back the fuse, I tried to start the engine and it actualy started! I tried the same thing today and it worked too.

    I could not figure out why it does this but I am sure this would mean something to a good mechanic or DIY expert. Could you please help to explain this and provide advise how to fix the issue?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    if you have a SES light then what's the code? You seem to be saying that it's P0505 for IACV?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    seems to have to do with fuel/fuel pressure. Start with cheapest solution - replace fuel filter and then look into other fuel components if it doesn't help.
  • nycqnycq Posts: 3
    The first time the car stalled the codes were for MAF sensor and IACV which were replaced...then now last week the car stalled again the idle speed was set higher I took it to the dealership and they codes P0505 were for IACV and knock sensor but the dealership said it was the ECU , they got the ECU replaced it and there was no communication between the ECU and the car so they said it was some wiring of the IACV and finally now saying that it was the diaphragm of the IACV and that they ordered another IACV when they just replaced it about two months ago from the Nissan warehouse. This is presently not costing me $$$ but it doesn't make sense and the dealership is not answering any question directly. What do you think
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Well, I had P0505 code and they replaced IACV and ECU in one visit. The explanation for replacing both was quite vague. First it was that ECU always goes with IACV and later it was that I had multiple error codes in ECU. I don't know but that problem is gone. I think that IACV was fine and it was a defective computer only. In your case if you already did the original repair and now they accept that there is a problem again with the parts that they put in then let them deal with it until you are clear of all the codes, they have to, you have all the receipts and their work is warrantied. One important piece of information for you and I bet you will thank me for this - the ECU is covered under Federal Emissions Control Warranty for 8 years or 80K miles and so you should not have paid anything for it if you have under 80K on your car.
  • nycqnycq Posts: 3
    After the IACV and ECU was replaced the car stalled again less than 50 miles brought it back to the dealer and the same code P0505 read..again the IACV was ordered and replaced and the dealership states everything is okay again...After I drive another about 50-70 miles the check engine sign lights up and the car stalls again this time I had the car towed and the dealership after checking wire etc.. said they have to replace both the IACV and ECU at the same now this is the third IACV and 2nd ECU.
    I specifically asked them to please make sure thats what is I don't want to put my self in danger and the car stall in the middle of the highway. So again they reassure me and tell me they are very confident that everything is fine. Now another 3 days pass again my car stalls this time the check engine sign did not go on and again I had the car towed to the dealership. I paid for the tow they did not even offer a tow....GOt to the dealer and the service manager gets in the car after its taken off the tow truck and runs into the same problem wher the car turns on but it will not drive...he then presses on the gas with real force 2 -3 x and you can see smoke from the muffler smelling like gas..and he was able to drive the car..the tech looked at it and the code that come now is knock sensor and NAF ( it the keys) , but they said they erased those codes and the problem was the TPS which needed to be readjusted....again the car was tested with a road test and again the dealership states everything is okay. The car drove may be for about three days and stalled out again on this time I used the technique that the service manager used by applying the gas and the car was driveable again for another three days...since the last visit to the dealer ship the car stalled about 5-7 times and each time I used the same technique....I found another mechanic that was referred to me..and he encountered the stalling problem so after he evaluated the car he said it was the Temperature sensor which was changed for $30. this was about a week ago...Now the car has not stalled ...the car drove smooth for the first couple of day but when it picks up speed the idle goes very high to about 2 - 3RPM before the car picks up speed. and the first few minutes into driving when the car is driven there is knocking noise that is heard...that was present before but its getting louder....
    PLEASE HELP I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO>>>>THE car was brought brand new and is only 65000 miles. Ive taken it to 3 dealerships and 2 mechanics outside.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    my stalling issue was not as serious as yours and P0505 did come up and I had IACV and Compute replaced. I tried reading up on it and had temp sensor and MAF replaced myself but that didn't help. Now that you mention pinging, you may have the same issue I had - clogged up EGR Valve tube. EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Basically, exhaust gases are pumped back into the engine to lower the combustion temperature, the only reason is to reduce air pollution. EGR Valve tube or passage clogging will cause your car not to idle steady and stall and it will most definitely cause pinging even when using 93 octane. Here is the service I had done with a private mechanic, which fixed the issue - removed intake manifold, removed EGR Valve tube and cleaned it out. Also, since the manifold is off he replaced manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and cleaned throttle body. The service costed me $250 including all gaskets and it was a three hour job but the mechanic was good, he knew what he was doing and did this before. Go this route, I think that clogged up tube was causing various sensors to malfunciton because of improper air-fuel mixture all the time. The computer was trying to adjust but when it failed then it would display some sensor being defective. The dealer would not want to do this service, they only replace the part based on computer reading, which is usually easiest. Pretty much any sensor can be replaced without too much disassembly. Try this and let me know how it goes. I wouldn't replace any more sensors before digging under the intake manifold.
  • Has anyone had any luck with this problem?? I have the same problem with my 2001 Maxima.

    It all started with a leaking muffler. The day all the problems started, the seam at the muffler flange broke. I was on the highway when it broke so nothing happened until I went to exit the highway. When I let off the throttle the engine shut off. I couldn't start it for the life of me. It would immediately shut off after turning over. I noticed that when I held the gas down the car would start. Just to get the car home I turned up the idle stop and brought it home to troubleshoot.

    The next day after the car was warmed up I moved the idle stop back down and the car stayed on. I replaced the muffler and the car seemed to be fine. One the car cooled down I had the same issue. I only have to hold the throttle opne for about 30 seconds and gently release the gas and it will stay running. I noticed that the higher idle at cold temps never occur. The idle goes straight to warm idle 700-800 RPM's. I also never got any engine lights.

    So far I've removed and cleaned the intake, IACV, MAF, throttle body and I find nothing but normal wear. I also pulled one plug at a time while cranking the engine to check if I had a leaky injector but I had no luck. I putt he scanner on it and the temp reads correctly and the throttle position checks out ok too. Ive got no vacuum leaks or engine codes. Once the car warms up, it starts fine, and after it sits for about 2-3 hours it wont start. I feel like im chasing a ghost here....

    Anyone had any luck??

  • guestguest Posts: 774
    My 2003 Montana when cold makes a ticking/ slappping sound that seems to come from the accessory belt. The frequency varies with rpm, but is about 4 ticks per second. Once warmed up, the ticking stops. The belt looks fine, as do the pulleys. I thought maybe the tensioner is isn't working right when cold, but don't know how to confirm. Any ideas?
  • I don't know if anybody out there can help me. I have what I think is the same problem. I got a temp. sensor from Nissan, but don't know where it goes. Can any body tell me how to do it?


  • My F250 runs rough and seems to cut out at random intervals, especially during acceleration or low RPM/high torque driving. It starts and idles rough but doesn't die. The warmer it gets, the better it runs. After it is completely warmed up, it runs normally. The effect is severe when ambient temps are below 10F and gradually lessen until there is almost no effect at 60F.

    I've checked the resistance on the coolant temp and air temp sensors both hot and cold and the reading are close to what the maintenance manual says.

    Any ideas?
  • I have a 2007 4-door VW GTI. This winter, in the first storm of the season, ice formed at the bottom, front of my front doors, and the only way I could get out of the car was to force open the door, curling up the bottom corner of the door where it meets the front quarter panel. I even made my kids climb out the window on the passendger side to avoid bending that door, too, which was also full of ice. Sure enough, next snowstorm we had, that ice formed again, in the same place. If the door had not already been bent, it would have been. This is a great car, but there seems to be no way for me to avoid an annual repair of the same problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • cowlagcowlag Posts: 2
    Just wondering if you found out or solved this problem with the engine knock at start up please let me know. Some people say that is normal and others say it could be a lifter problem or oil compression problem at start up. Let me know what you think or try and email me at thank you.
  • cowlagcowlag Posts: 2
    Just wondering if you found out or solved this problem with the engine knock at start up please let me know. Some people say that is normal and others say it could be a lifter problem or oil compression problem at start up. Let me know what you think or try and email me at thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you referring to snow/ice that is thrown back from the front tire as you are driving, which then hardens on the door?

    If so....move south, we don't have snow here. Or, perhaps you could carry a stick of some sort. Put the window down, lean out the window, and use the stick to push/knock the snow/ice off.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Do you have mud flaps on your front wheel well? If not, you may want to invest in a set. This will help prevent the ice from building up in this area.
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