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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    Gotta go with cmnott on this one. The problem isn't with the car. The problem is with the subs you put in the trunk.
  • Ive'had my 06' GT for 2 1/2 weeks, only put @ 250 miles on it so far and no significant problems. Tonight after spending an evening on the boardwalk my wife and I get back in the car and the engine wont turn over, sounded like no gas was getting thru. All other functions work but no turn over. Had to have the car flatbeeded to the delaersahip :(... thought it might be a problem w/ key recognition or the alarm system shutting the engine off, but if so i dont think the belts would be turning ?
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    Do you mean you didn't get anything to turn over....as in you turn the key and the starter doesn't even engage? One of the things talked about on another Mustang board was the fact that in the Mustang, you really have to have the clutch pedal ALL THE WAY DISENGAGED to the floor before the starter will engage.

    If it's an automatic or the starter does engage, then it could be a key transponder issue since it affects the fuel shut-off if the system doesn't recognize the key.

    Computer codes should tell the dealer exactly what's going on.
  • The starter does engage and and all belts start turning, but no fuel. Its a manual trans and the clutch was floored. Havent heard back from the dealer yet, but I'm assuming it is the fuel shut off, but how does it not recognize the key three hours after a clean start ?
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    It does sound like a fuel shutdown issue then/transponder issue. Don't know if that's your case, though. Anything can make those transponders go "nutso". In a different car, I had the same issue a few years ago. The service dept said it was because my keys must have come in contact with a magnet of some sort.

    Who knows?
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    A big thank you to the service advisor, who is a car guy, and a big thumbs down to the shop foreman, who is a good for nothing looking for a way to get out of their obligation.

    Background.

    Got my Mustangin April and I picked it up with a set of Eibach Pros and American Racing Casino 18x9 with Falken FK451 255/45ZR18. Tint too. the car is black and it looked amazing! Problem is the steering wheel always had a vibration, most notably at 55mph. They tried everything to fix it up until last week, they ordered me a new set of Falkens, which I always complained that they were very noisy and when noisy, it was not a solid sound, but a sound that was pulsating. Well, the shop foreman said, that is what you get when you change 400.00 Pirellis with cheap Falkens and 600.00 a wheel Ford tims (the polished 17 inchers) with American Racing...

    :confuse:

    Yeah, that is what he said. So here I have these brand new Falkens (by the way the last ones, since they were garbage produced an spine chilling burnout!) But there is still vibration. Shop foreman again strats with me that it is the springs. the service advisor backed me up and said that it is and can't be the springs. I am at my wits end.

    Until...

    A new, young tech guy notices that there are two metal-like washers on each 5 bolt pattern. These, he says are for the 17" rim and caused those rims to not damage the brakes or something to that effect. In anay event, he snips them off. PROBLEM SOLVED! Car has absolutely no vibration, it feels like a different car. these washeres created an inherent vibratiion that was positively scary at 85mph. You could feel it in the seat.

    So now I have brand new tires that are quiet and full of tread when most likely I would still have my old, noisy set which would still balance if they simply took off those washers.

    The car is brand new and I am ecstatic.
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    Yes, me again.

    This is very important because a lot of complained about the annyoing rattle in the passenger side dash. There is a mounting bracket behind the airbag that is causing this. Kindly direct your techie to get behind the airbag and fix it. The car is now positively Lexus-like without that iritating metallic sounding rattle in the dash.
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    The new ColdPlay CD will not work in my player. They have put in three head units complete with the same error message "D1 F1" with an annoying "tick-tick", every 8 seconds. It is a bought CD that plays everywhere else. Does anybody have this porblem? I tried telling them about the older decks, but they have given me new decks and i even tried it in other Shaker 500 decks and it has the same error message.

    Anyone else have this probelm? What can I do about it?
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    My Shaker has played anything I put into it.....including Cold Play.

    Don't know why you have an issue given they've put in new head units. I guess they need to keep replacing them unitl they find one that works. :sick:
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    It just doen's make sense to me. The new ColdPlay (XY is it called?) doesn't work in mine, the older ColdPLay do. This is not a burned CD. It works in my wife's 2002 Explorer EB. It works in my house. Why, it even worked in the Alfa 156! It works everywhere except my Mustang. they had a V6 Cabrio in the showroom with a Shaker 500. I put it in there. It also did not work. Nobody from Ford has even bothered to give me an explanation as to what "D1 F1" means.

    Annoyed.

    Isn't there something about an A spec and B spec radio? I wonder if that would help my predicament.
  • I remember reading that copy-protected discs are becoming more and more common. I also recall reading that because of the protection scheme, users may experience some troubles. I personally have never experienced this, but have read about users that have. Could this possibly be at work here and not the head unit? I don't like Coldplay so I don't have the disc but I do know they are very popular and would want to protect their music. Maybe this disc is using a new protection scheme that is interfering with the firmware in the head unit. Just my first thoughts on this.
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    I've got the "B" spec Shaker 500. It's probably one of the first ones they used in production vehicles since mine was built in March.

    What the difference is between it an "A" spec, I have no clue.

    I have heard of the "copy protection" schemes on some of the new discs that keep people from posting songs on "share sites". I don't know that you can know for certain which discs would or would not have this copy protection scheme.

    Sounds plausible, though.
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    Maybe the CD senses that the Shaker 500 has MP3 ability? Is that what you are getting at?

    I tried it in a base Mustang V6, not a Shaker, and it workerd...maybe it is the MP3 player that screws with the CD?
  • I'm not sure if this information will help with your problem, but here goes....

    I have a Shaker 500 and I have played burned mp3 disks in my radio. It doesn't like some of the disks, but it usually plays them. When a mp3 disk is playing it will display D1 F1, etc. That means, Disk 1, Folder 1 and then it will have the track number. I can't tell you about cold play, because I don't listen to them.
  • I have a 05 convert mustang that has a irratating squeak that comes from either the drivers side dash or door. It only makes a noise when I'm on a bumpy road. The road doesn't have to be in bad shape for this to happen. Sound familiar to anybody ??? Thanks for the help.
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    I wonder why the Shaker 500 thinks that my store bought CD is an MP3 disc?

    It is pretty pathetic that no one at my Ford dealer knows what D1 F1 means except you.
  • My 05GT dash rattles and squeaks since day one. Different places on different days, totally random and I credit it to just poor quality / design. I brought it in and drove with the service manager and he played deaf and then told me even BMWs have squeaking dash boards. Just on the way to work today I got a new loud rattle and I'm seriously considering selling the piece of Sh_t - if I can .
  • I've had the same rattle in the right rear quarter. Originally, I thought it was coming from the rear seat, then the dealer said it was from the jack in the trunk. However, even after wrapping the jack and going over the rear sear with a fine tooth comb, I still have the rattle. It almost sounds like it's coming from the right rear wheel well area, but it's hard to tell. BTW, I have the Shaker 1000 with the monstrous speaker thing in the trunk, but the dealer says that's not the source of the noise. Can anyone help?
  • yes had some kind of egg shaped mess all over my pretty torch red 06 gt i saw it after the dealer cleaned it up for me and my final inspection. they ended up using some compound and buffing and got out most of it i couldnt see repainting a new car i hope i didnt mess up
  • don't know which section to put my messages in, so here goes. have had stang since jan. 05 and had trans replaced, still have problems with new one. ring and pinon gears replaced in rear end to stop howling. didn't help. but it did cause a new vibration when slowing down. also had to have gas tank replaced, wouldn't fill. they say that is a vendor problem. had left side door window replaced four times before i got one without any flaws. they replaced a flange to try to stop vibration from rear end gears. also the all floor position on the heater not working. they have a tsb on this problem but no fix since i bought the car. fse coming to take 2nd look at problems that cant seem to be fixed. i have asked for a replacement car with an auto trans, which i will pay the difference for but they expect me to trade my car in as a used one and pay msrp for the new one. they have had my car for over 30 days for all these problems but still no help from ford on a buy back/trade out. also has a lot of noise when loading and unloading clutch. car also gets lousy gas mileage. i could go on but dont want to take some one else's space.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    I have to admit I was a bit skeptical about those washers fixing my vibration problem, especially since they are wafer thin. BUT, I took them off yesterday and, viola', vibration completely eradicated! It drives just as well as it did with the stock wheels! In fact, it was so smooth that I had completely forgotten about the vibration.

    I examined my stock wheels and my new ones and figured out what the problem is. The stock wheel holes are drilled so that those washers will fit inside the holes and the wheel will still lay flush against the brake rotor. Aftermarket wheels have a flat mounting face that needs to be flush against the rotor. As wafer thin as those washers are, they were preventing the wheels from mounting flush. This, in turn, caused a wobble in the wheels which translated to a vibration in the steering wheel (and your butt). Now that I've removed those washers, I'm happy with the ride again.

    One correction as to what you recall the young tech told you. The washers have nothing to do with keeping the stock wheels from damaging the brakes. What they do is hold the rotor snug on the hub. They prevent the rotor from wobbling around when the caliper squeezes it. That wobbling promotes rotor warpage. We'll have to keep in touch to see how each others rotors (and pads) wear.

    Now if I can get that occasional rattle on the passenger side dash gone, it'll be perfect again. I see that you said it's a metal bracket behind the airbag. It doesn't sound like a metallic rattle to me, but who knows. I have them check it out eventually.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Wow! Talk about a dealer give you the runaround! You need to take them to court and also try to put the Lemon Law in motion. There is a TSB for the gas tank problem. Nearly every '05 Mustang has it and a lot of us have had it fixed already.

    Sorry to hear about your troubles. Good luck!
  • Hey I just Passed By A brand new 06 on the lot and I Bought A 05 at the end of feb. whats the diff between the 2 ?? are the 06 better ? I would think the 05 is better being that it was the first year of these new body styles ?
  • Wrong forum as this is not a problem but I'll answer anyway....

    If it is a GT no changes.

    If it is a V6, the Pony Package is new. Do a search in the Ford Mustang 2005+ forum for the details.

    All models get two new colors, Tungsten Grey and Vista Blue. Sonic blue discontinued. There is also new wheel options, most of which yuo can see at www.fordracingparts.com
  • graphicguygraphicguy SW OhioPosts: 7,523
    First, it sounds like your dealer's service dept isn't very good. I'd take it to another dealer.

    If issues persist, as taylord mentioned, I'd invoke lemon law. Make sure you've got all your paperwork for the service visits. This is not an easy, nor a quick process. But, if you can't get your issues resolved, it may be the only alternative. In the back of your owner's manual packet, there are instructions on how to proceed with lemon procedures. Don't wait for Ford to instigate the procedures, because they likely won't.

    Fuel economy estimates are exactly that....ESTIMATES. Testing isn't done by Ford but the EPA. They are the ones who post the numbers on the MSRP sticker. So many variables go into MPG numbers (like driving conditions, quality of gas, personal driving habits, etc), it's hard to duplicate EPA MPG figures, on any car.

    TSBs for the slow fuel fill were issued for those "early run" cars. Dealers should be able to get the fix done when parts are available.

    What kind of noises are you experiencing with the clutch?
  • I had the same problem with My 05 Roush mustang. It was parked in a parking lot with a incline when I came out car rolled back against rear bumper of another car behind. I found that if you were driving car hard and you put on parking brake while rotors were quite hot they held at first. As the rotors cooled the ebrake did not hold al though it holds while they are hot. Try it you will se that the ebrake handle has to pulled some more to hold it. I think the rotors maybe shrink in size maybe when they cool. No dammage to either vehicle expect for a small nick in my bumperimage
  • The brake squeel noise is not from the pads against the rotor but from the back metal side of the pad against the two sides of caliper. When you wash vehicle rust devlopes between the steel back side of brake pad and caliper. When the squeak use WD forty with a little squirt in between where pads contact claiper but not where the pads meet the rotor and squeak is gone. It is just as simple as that.
  • Any one notice their hood lifting up at high speed in the middle?? First time I saw it i stopped i thought the hood was not latched but it was. Hood seems to weak in the middle. I've talked to other 05 owners and they noticed that also. More prevalanet when driving into a wind.
  • dupes01dupes01 Posts: 13
    Hello,
    I live in southern ontario, and will need to drive my 05 GT in the winter. Has anybody heard about steel wheels fitting on 05 GTs? Has anybody thought about driving in the winter and come up with a solution?

    On tirerack.com there are winter tires available, Michelin X-ice, for the stock 17inch rims for about 125US a piece. Expensive. But if there were cheaper tires to fit on steel rims that would be the way to go. Any thoughts or experience out there?
  • Yes, my hood flops around like a fish out of water at anything above 80mph or when a BIG vehicle goes the other direction on a 2-lane highway. Complained at Ford, and was told they all do that. You know the hoods are PLASTIC on these cars. This car is so FANTISTIC otherwise, I don't notice it anymore
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