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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    I also remember someone else posting about the battery dieing on them, don't remember if they had the Shaker 1000 or 500. I think you have a draw on the system, be it concrete or internal that is killing your battery over a short period of time. I doubt it is your alternator or a bad battery. Maybe ask for a tech with the electrical service certificate who has a multi meter and see if he can meter either at the fuse box or sub. Maybe pull the fuse for the radio and let it sit the normal amount of time it takes for the battery die and see if this helps. Also don't forget that when a battery dies they say it is bad for it to be charged quickly by the alternator, may not hold the charge. To my knowledge you are supposed to charge it slowly with a charger. Just a side note, I have an 06 GT with the Shaker 500 and my job takes me out of town a lot for up to 15 days on end and I have not had a problem with the battery after letting it sit for this amount of time.

    D
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    I have the Shaker 1000. I leave my GT sitting for weeks on end and have only had a weak (not dead) battery once. And the only reason I had that was because I had been playing the radio for about 3 hours the day before while I was detailing the cars. I haven't had a problem since.
  • cobragtcobragt Posts: 95
    Does the vibration also seem to happen at around 3100 RPMs?
    This has been a well covered problem by myself as well as other in this thread. I own a GT and I am not 100% sure if it applies to your V6, but it may give you some insight for the dealer to look at.

    At both 1200-1300 RPM and again at 3100-3200 RPM there is a vibration due to a faulty exhuast hanger, which happens to be attached at the crossmember.
    Here is a picture. image

    The piece that is right in the front of where the guys hands are...it attaches to both sides of the exhaust, thats the crossmember. You should have something similar in the V6. Look into it.
  • maxjetmaxjet Posts: 1
    Hmm....that's interesting about the battery drainage. I had the Shaker 500 removed and replaced with a Pioneer Avic N2. I had the battery die three times before but on two of those occasions it was because I had left my power inverter on all night but the third time it wasn't the inverter because I know for sure that it was off. When it happened the third time I had no idea why the battery died but a quick jump start and it was fine again. Mind you I do drive it every day but the day before the third time the battery died I hadn't driven the Mustang so I suppose something was gradually taking away its power that day. I park on asphalt so it's not the cement power drain issue. I got a new alarm that I'm going to get installed soon that as a bonus monitors battery drain and if it gets below a certain voltage the alarm automatically starts the car up to charge it and turns the car off after 5 minutes. It's the Prostar Gold alarm if anyone's interested in getting one for that purpose.
  • bobcathbobcath Posts: 13
    Just throwing my two cents in here, but I mistakenly left my radar detector plugged in for awhile on my '05 GT. Noticed it was still "live" a few hours later. The power ports stay on even though the ignition is off.
  • Mine had that problem but in a lot more speed ranges.
    It was terrible at 72mph. It resonated in the body and
    was like a drum inside the car. Mine is an 06 GT Automatic.

    It ended up being the rear end housing. The mount holes
    are off enough to cause a pinion angle problem.

    It took three weeks to figure it out. They could have
    fixed it if it had an adjustable pinion angle from the
    factory but, it doesn't.

    They can only do Factory fixes for these problems.

    Here's what they did to solve my vibrating drivetrain problem.

    Replaced driveshaft. This changed it but didn't stop it.

    Put driveshaft from a new car on lot that was not vibrating. No change.

    Replaced ring and pinion gear. It had a small whine that
    was fixed but still had vibration.

    Called Ford Tech.

    Swapped out transmission. no change.
    put old one back in.

    Swapped out rear end with another from the factory.
    This made it 75% better. If it had been this good i
    wouldn't have taken it to the dealer in the first place.

    FORD tech wanted to put it on a vibration analysis tool
    to determine what was off it's know baseline vibration.
    But couldn't for three weeks.

    FORD tech told the dealer to drive a car on the lot and
    find one with no vibration and put the rear end from it
    in my car. That's what they did and the problem is gone.

    The service manager actually called me up after the first
    rear end and told me they factory wanted him to swap it
    again. Could i bring it at my convenience. It to two days
    for the second swap.

    This dealer service dept. was excellent. They gave me a
    near new car to drive during this and bent over backwards
    to get this problem solved.

    HORNE FORD Florence SC was the dealer.
  • Many thanks for the interest in my problem. No, there is no vibration at all @3100RPM. In fact, at about 1800 the vibration goes away completely. Of course, being pretty old, I don't often see 3100RPM on the tach, only a couple of times when I had to see what the car could do.

    If the car is in Park or Neutral, there is no vibration at any RPM. Only when in gear (any gear) and the tach reaches 1500, you can feel a vibration on your feet, the pedals, and the seat of your pants. It seems to get worse once the torque converter locks up under light acceleration, but it goes away at about 1750RPM (breaking Ohio speed limits).

    After reading your posts about the cross member problem with the GT, I thought that that might be the problem and put the car up on a rack to take a look. Everything looks good; the hangar support doesn't seem to be bad.

    I still think that the vibration is somehow tied to the exhaust and will take another look. I'll also give the dealer the tip.
  • Thanks for the reply. I'll keep the rear end in mind if the dealer can't find the problem.

    I agree with you as to the earnest effort of the dealer service departments. Several held my hand last year when I had major problems with an 05 Mustang that broke on an extended trip (Ohio to San Antonio,TX). They suggested that I return the car to Ford for a replacement and cheerfully supplied the documentation that I needed.
  • lavrishevolavrishevo Posts: 312
    3100 RPM to see what the car could do..... :surprise: you need to open that baby up sometimes, it's good for the car. Floor it every once in a while and blow out any carbon build up.
  • pony_piratepony_pirate Posts: 317
    Took my babied GT Premium for an oil change @ 2000 mi. Service advisor shuts me up when I try telling him that I want what the manual specifies, 5W-20. He says, with utter confidence, "O, we'll put in exactly the right oil. "

    Come home, look at the invoice, and what do I see? "5W-30." Not the right oil.

    Well, I go right back to the dealer. They try to convince me that the right oil was put in. One chief dufus actually points to the oil spout on the engine, which plainly states "5W-20," telling me "That's what it says, that's what we put in." Screw that, screw them -- I'm not going to chance voiding my warrantee and ruining my engine merely on the word of mouth of cretins. I insist they drain the oil again and put in the right oil, there and then, no questions asked. I even offer to pay for another oil change (what's $16 of oil compared to a voided warrantee and ruined engine?)

    Hey, no one even apologized for the inconvenience (an oil change ate up 4 hours of my life).

    Nagging afterthought: Did they actually put in the right oil? Should I go to Jiffy Lube and get another oil change?

    Why can't Ford learn proper customer service from Honda?
  • cobragtcobragt Posts: 95
    No problem. As I said, the problem may be a little harder to pinpoint being that its a automatic. With a manual, I was able to get the RPMs to sit at whatever I needed. Mine would vibrate at a very low RPM, then totally go away, until I reached a certain, higer RPM. It also did it in every dear as well. Sounds pretty similar.

    Here is a link to some known problems that Ford has released TSBs on. Though for the GT, some problems have been known in the V6 also.

    Ford TSB
  • riverronriverron Posts: 26
    Pony Pirate,

    First, I would have the oil changed immediately. The wrong weight "could" damage things like bearings because of the tight tolerances, although it is not likely.

    Second, do what I do at oil change time. I have found a "trustable" mechanic, by asking friends and such, then I checked with him to see if it would be acceptable if, at oil change time, I brought my own oil. I use Mobile 1 and I take 6 qts with me, (that I buy at the local parts store), and that is what he uses. If you keep the receipts for the oil change and lubes, that is all that is required to keep the warrantee in effect should something happen.
  • bburressbburress Posts: 3
    :lemon: Ok...I have an 06 V6 5 speed. I bought the car in October 05. Since then, it has been in the shop for counting today, 45 days. It has had a myriad of problems. Noises, transmission linkage fell off, but the biggest problem of all has been a vibration at 70-75 mph. It has been in and out of the shop many times for this. Currently, the transmission has been replaced, the drive shaft has been replaced and while it was better for awhile. It has come back within a few thousand miles. One dealer kept the car for 2 1/2 weeks and couldn't fix and had Ford take it to another dealer. Its so depressing to have such a pretty car and have so many problems with it within 5 months of buying it! :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • ndfanndfan Posts: 3
    Just purchased a new 2006 GT (manual trans.) a couple weeks ago. I have already detected some driveline slack, which causes a slight "clunking" noise after I shift and begin to accelerate. I haven't found this topic discussed on this or other boards, and I haven't driven any other manual GT's (bought the one I test drove)... so, I wanted to know if this is normal? Thanks in advance for any help!

    PS: I'm loving this car so far!!!
  • macatowamacatowa Posts: 69
    I have an 06 GT that feels the same way. You need to really smooth it if you want it to not be there, it is worst at low speeds and idle and slow rolling in first. I'm sure an automatic feels smoother and less abrupt but I love the torque flow through the gear in the 5 speed.
  • cobragtcobragt Posts: 95
    Yes it is normal. I've had my 05 GT now for 1 year, 43000 miles, still going strong, and I too have that. In fact, my 2003 SVT Cobra does the same thing also.

    There is always going to be a little play in the driveline. In fact, when I use to have a manual neon it did it too ha.
  • pony_piratepony_pirate Posts: 317
    You have to learn how coordinate the gas pedal and clutch, unleashing the engine's power and coupling it to the transmission. Once you get the hang of it, the car rides as smooth as glass. :shades:

    PS. I've come to sense the engine, how hard it's working and when to shift, without looking at the tach, by the vibrations coming through the shift knob to my hand.
  • gtgtcobragtgtcobra Posts: 259
    This is the reason why I'm glad that I own a 2001 Mustang GT and a 2002 V6 Mustang. I don't have the problems that you guys have with vibrations and transmission problems. I love the Mustang, but I wouldn't trust buying a new 06 Mustang after reading about all the problems that they have. I am goint to wait until the next new body style comes out in 2099/2010 before I buy another Mustang. I love Mustangs a lot. I want to keep my 01 & 02 Mustangs. They are better built than the 05's & 06"s. At least, I think that they are. I have never had any problems with any of my 2 Mustangs that I currently own. And I like the 01 & 02 body style a whole lot better than the 05 & 06 body style.
  • I know how you feel. Last April, I bought an 05 V6 5 speed that spent over 70 days under repair in the first four months. The problems included front suspension, fuel tank, clutch, paint, and mainly drive train. The transmission was rebuilt 3 times and finally replaced, the driveshaft was replaced, and the ring and pinion were replaced in the rear end. The car was "lemon lawed" and replaced with the 06 V6 automatic.

    Depending on your state, a trigger for the lemon law is more that 30 days out of service for repairs. Maybe you should take a look at this.
  • bburressbburress Posts: 3
    Yep, I am looking into the lemon laws of Va. I think it's time that I get ugly.

    :mad:
This discussion has been closed.