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Diesel Questions and Problems in General (non specific makes)

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  • just wondering have you heard any more on this I just heard about it today and noticed there wern't any replys to your post.
  • i have a 2001 dodge diesel with a automatic tran. and its not wanting to shift out of first unless you let off throttle then it will go through all gears. i replaced the tranducer and solenoid that wasnt it. what else could it be? any ideas?
  • jlcjlc Posts: 30
    Hi Folks, I am in the market for a tow vehicle. I am looking at towing a 5th wheel 12000 to 14000 lbs. I am thinking new Chevy or Ford diesel, any comments would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks

    Joe
  • 440jeep440jeep Posts: 12
    my father would like to try and squeeze a chevy luv diesel into a kia sportage. Is this even possible? I have never heard of anything remotely like it before.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    ANYTHING is possible, if you have the time and the money.

    If no one has ever done something, there could be a reason for this but if he wants a hobby, then why not? I suspect there is no LUV engine-to-Kia transmission adapters out there, so that will have to be made...or I guess he could install an entire LUV 4X4 drivetrain into a Sportage. Given the weight of a Sportage, and the horsepower of that Isuzu-built diesel (58 horsepower), this vehicle is not going anywhere fast.

    Or he could have another beer and re-think this whole thing :)

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  • kreuzerkreuzer Posts: 122
    how bio-diesel would help the U.S. become less dependent on foreign oil? Does it really burn cleaner than gasoline or regular diesel? Is there a large supply of it or can it be easily made? How plentiful is it? Thanks, in advance.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,896
    You may actually want to goggle this and then ask the question again. It is SO advantaneous on SO many levels, that any one would sound like a used car salesman in white patent shoes and plaid pants with the answer to peace in our time and the end to war, if they start to answer your question/s.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 29,017
    ruking is right on biodiesel. So many advantages and so few disadvantages. Here is a good starting point on who is using biodiesel.

    Kettle Chips and biodiesel

    http://www.kettlefoods.com/index.php?cID=227
  • I changed the fuel lift pump.Still getting fuel in oil.Can fuel get in oil through injection pump or anywhere else?
  • jcobjcob Posts: 2
    Have a 2002 Dodge TCD with 85K. On highway driving when I slow from 70 to 50 and try to accelerate the engine does not respond. The engine doesn't die, it keeps running at 1500rpm but it doesn't respond to the accelerator. In about 5-10seconds it will finally kick in. Anyone seen this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Don't know the particulars of this engine but sounds like the actual physical throttle rod or whatever opens the air flow in the intake. In other words, it sounds mechanical in nature not electronic.

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  • gordgord Posts: 5
    I have the 04 Dodge Crew cab 4x4 and am frustrated in trying to completely fill the fuel tank. Usually takes 5 minutes to put the last 4-5 gal. in the tank. The foaming diesel and small filler neck just don't let it fill correctly. Has anyone been able to resolve this problem on the Dodge?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    It's not the filler neck. It's the design of the tank... the vent tube is located in such a position that a large air bubble is created and causes some backpressure.

    There are two ways around this... use the slow-fill setting on the pump from the beginning, or there are aftermarket kits to relocate the vent. Because of what the kit does, it will void any warranty on the tank, but installed correctly, it not only fills the tank faster, but even allows you to use the built-in "slosh area" of the tank.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    it will make oil if it has bad rings
  • Hello,

    My 1990 7.3 international diesel is very hard to get started. Once it starts it runs great.

    When I first turn the key (after glow plug light goes out) it will fire then stall. I try pumping the heck out of the pedal but it does not seem to help. From there I have to crank and crank and crank. Finally it will start. If it sits for 6-8 hours it will have same problem.

    I was told to check glow plugs. Removed all plugs and with jumper wire I connected to battery and grounded the housings. All plugs glowed instantly.

    I think I am lousing prime. There are no signs of fuel leakage.

    I did replace fuel filter a while back (it was leaking)

    If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    thanks
    Jim
  • guykguyk Posts: 3
    I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 2002 RAM ALSO.
    CANT FIND OUT WHAT IS CAUSING IT.
    EVEN DEALER DOESNT KNOW. PLEASE HELP
  • jcobjcob Posts: 2
    Just got mine back from the Dealer and he told me that it was the lift pump and injector pump. Which they can replace for $3500.00.... Yikes!!!!!!
    Unfortunately, they cannot tell me how they came to that conclusion. The truck is running so I am going to replace the lift pump first and install a set of pressure gauges to monitor the fuel pressure. If the problem persist then I know to replace the injector pump. Email me at jcobarruvias@satx.rr.com and I will let you know how I made out.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off.
    Ouch, that smarted.

    Ok, how did you test the glowplugs again?
    Are both batteries in good condition? Yes, they will have an affect on the glowplugs.

    Next thing, check that the return hoses aren't falling apart and collapsing.
    They are the rubber hoses that go across to each injector.
    Any leaks at the injectors?

    When it finally starts, how bad does it smoke?
    How many miles are on this engine?

    Ok, now that I asked a bunch of questions, a WAG would be that you have an injector or 2 that are leaking down.
    When that happens, it has a flooding affect and can cause similar symptoms.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    I've run into several where the lift pumps were failing and several where the owners had allowed the fuel filters to stay in too long and caused power loss problems.

    But, without knowing what they did and what they checked, it is hard to tell.
  • pstorypstory Posts: 5
    I have a diesel vanagon and think I have an injector problem.When I go to start it,the rubber fuel return line and or the rubber plug fly off due to excessive pressure and fuel flys everywhere. the vehicle starts and will still run roughly but it appears as though the pressure is dumping large amounts of fuel through that injector and consecuently blowing off the return line.Is my injector in need of repair?Please help!! Paul
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    No, more than likely, you have a blockage in the return.
    Which would cause pressure on the return line and blow the hose off.
    I would suspect one of the rubber return hoses has collapsed.
    I seriously doubt you have an injector problem.
    Fuel runs through the injectors all the time. The injectors don't regulate preussure, so you are on the wrong path.
  • I have a '92 7.3L IH diesel, 141,000k miles.

    I can't answer your question, but my truck does have a harder time staring in colder weather (I'm positive it is time for glow plugs as they have 90k+ on them, but lonts of long distance driving). It is currently in the shop because the the fuel filter/water separator developed some really bad leaks at the point where the wires enter at the top to heat the fuel, and the drain tube off the bottom busted off. Simultaneously, the braided fuel line developed a pin hole and sprayed fuel all over.

    It took them a week to find the correct parts (fuel filter and wires, etc).

    I just got off the phone with my mechanic (who hasn't done me wrong yet) and he mentioned that the rubber hoses to each glow plug (or did he say injector) are OEM, look bad and need to be replaced. Which sounds like the same thing the mechanic above mentions.

    GL
  • '92 Ford 7.3L diesel, 2 tanks, ~ 140k miles, almost always in S. FL.

    Both tanks about 1/4 tank full of some kind of junk that clogs the fuel lines and starts to cut off the motor if I let the fuel tanks get too low.

    1) I see ads for additives for anti-gel and anti-fungus. I've tried the anti-gel but it doesn't seem to work. Should I try anti-fungus additive?

    2) Is there some way to suck out this gel with a vacuum hose or pump?

    3) I plan on keeping the truck at least another 100k miles baring any complications. Should I not worry about this as long as it doesn't get higher than 1/4 tank?

    4) I am pulling a 12k pound Fifth Wheeler. Is there any possibility of some amounts of gunk getting sucked up thru the fuel lines and causing other problems? (i.e. I just had to replace the fuel filter/heater/water seperator & wiring to that), and rubber fuel line just popped a leak same time. Is it possible that some "gunk" is causing some kind of back pressure?

    5) Should I pull the tank and get it cleaned out?

    The truck is still at the mechanic. I don't mind spending the money. Have had this old truck since day one.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    You don't have gel, that's a cold weather issue. You probably have of all things---algae! You need what they call a bio-cide. If the grunge is too thick you probably need to drain the tanks and replace the filters. Otherwise, if you don't drop the tanks and have them cleaned, you'll be hassled in the future. Your filters can't trap THAT much junk, if you have a great deal of it.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Your glow plugs are WAY overdue.

    Diesels by nature have a hard time starting in cold weather. They need optimum glow heat and optimum additive protection in cold weather.

    So new glow plugs, fuel conditioner (anti-gel) and new hoses if they are leaking or cracked.

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  • Was pulling 12,000lbs trailer up a hill truck would down shift but would lose power until about 40 mph then would pick up speed again. Did that once then went into limp mode would not go over 25mph and check engine light came on. Turned off truck restarted ran fine but light was still on only for a few days then turned off. Once home hooked up code reader and came up low fuel rail pressure reset code then a day later truck stopped running going down the road and would not restart I replaced the fuel filter right there primed the system and it started right up. Have hooked the reader up to it to see what codes and there are no codes. Do you think it was just a filter problem or do I have an injector going out ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    Clogged filters are the bane of diesel engines, so you might have gotten it. A poor spray pattern will cause loss of power and drop in fuel economy. I don' t think it would trigger that code though, since pressure would be good even to a bad injector.

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  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Agree with Mr Shiftright. (again) :shades:
    More than likely, there are 1 or 2 glow plugs that are shot. Pretty common.
    I will say this. If you are strapped for cash, you can locate bad glow plugs with a test light or ohm meter. There is a way to do it.

    But honestly, I would replace all 8. They are about $8 each, depending on where you get them.
    The rubber hoses that go to the injectors are the return hoses and over time crack and leak. When you replace the rubber hoses, also replace the o-rings on the caps that the hoses attach to. Contact your Ford dealer and they have a kit with the hoses and o-rings for about $23.
  • Hi and thanks to all whom posted.

    As stated this truck is only used occasionally so as long as I could get it started and with limited time it took me a while to get into checking things out.

    I found a very very small fuel leak. Replaced fuel hose and it starts instantly now.

    Again thanks to all who posted.

    Jim
  • All fuel hoses - done check. First time in a long time haven't smelled diesel.

    Glow plugs next. Just the plugs or is there anything else that needs to be replaced at the same time? I saw something about electrical wires somewhere, but wasn't sure if the wires get replaced or if the wires just hook up to the glow plugs.

    My dad is a mechanical engineer and would like to replace these for me, but he's not a diesel mechanic (but otherwise very much a mechanic and trouble shooter). Is this fairly easy for someone who hasn't done this before?
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