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Diesel Questions and Problems in General (non specific makes)



  • szewskiszewski Posts: 1
    Where is the primer pump located on a 2003 chevy duramax diesel ??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    1. Looks like it's on top of the fuel filter

    2. Open the vent valve (small screw) by turning the screw counterclockwise several full turns.

    3. Operate the priming pump (pump it up and down with your palm) "> until a small amount of fuel seeps from the vent valve. allow the pump to return upwards between pumps. When fuel is present, the filter is full of fuel and the system should be primed.
    4. Close the vent valve.
    5. Clean any fuel which accumulated on the fuel filter.
    6. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few minutes.
    7. Check the filter for leaks.


  • OK i have knowlage of diesel engines but i am stumped on this one i got a 2.0 diesel and where the injectors go into the engine the inlets on two cylnders melted and fell into the cylynders and ruined two of the pistons i cant understand this how could it happen any ideas please i am going crazy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Sounds like detonation damage perhaps, or a massive overheat? Were the glow plugs damaged as well? Did the pistons chunk out (pieces broken off the piston tops).


  • So I've always had old trucks and its finally going to be time for me to buy a new truck this summer (2010) I am currently a college student and I also work for a construction company in the summer and on holidays. When I'm out at school the majority of my driving is in town. About twice a month I make the trip back home about 150 miles and hauling stuff in my 1/4 ton truck over the pass is killing it! The contractor that I work for has a 2002 Chevy 2500HD (gas) and a debris trailer that when loaded up is usually around 10,000lbs. The truck there is beat to hell and I hate driving it. I currently have to switch trucks all the time which is very irritating. After school I intend on getting into the trades and I need a good truck. Being that I'm in school I really don't have a ton of $ for repairs so i need something reliable! I need your guys help deciding. I've read a lot of bad things about the 6.0L in the Fords. But I'm not opposed to a Ford. WHAT BRAND AND ENGINE SIZE WILL BE BEST? I don't want a crew cab or a long bed. Just simple extended cab and short bed. I've been stressing over the differences and I need some opinions from guys that have owned these trucks. THANK YOU ALL!!!
  • ;) I worked for Ford for over 30 years and have driven all the compitition over the years and my vote is for a Ford. the new 6.0 diesel did have problems when they first brought it out but those days are over. I drive a 7.3 Excursion with over 150k. Keep in mind with a Ford you get more truck and when loaded a better ride with a F-350 vs a 250. The front suspension is different. See if you can get a family and friends discount with someone you know at Ford. If you don't I would be glad to sponser you for an X Plan. Good luck..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    So are you going to do heavy hauling in your work or just a metal toolbox and a shop-vac and some buckets? Sometimes I think contractors get into "overkill" when they buy a diesel truck. Diesels are great for heavy work but they aren't necessarily "less" maintenance---they are more like "different" maintenance.


  • Well its a family business and I stand to take over it in the future. As i said we do have the debris trailer that, when loaded, exceeds 10,000 lbs. I'm also an equipment operator and so from time to time I'll be moving machinery. I just can see that the gas engine in out 2500HD is strained with the load. So to answer your question, yes, there is some heavy hauling to do even though it isn't every day. The problems that I personally face are not the payments for the truck but the insurance, registration, and the maintenance. I have no idea what some of those things relatively cost. That's part of the research I'm doing. So I'm realistically looking at getting something a few years old, maybe 05' or 06'.
  • That's wonderful! I may need to take you up on the discount offer, although I don't know if that factors in for a used truck. I do have one question though, What is going to be the relative millage difference between a 7.3L and a 6.0L. I just don't want to get myself in a hole with fuel prices! Thank You again!
  • Just got a 97 F250 with about 260k miles. Want to try and get another 260 but also want better mileage. In Fl. so cold is not problem what kind of oil should I use? Just a newbie to forum and diesels. Help
  • go to this website.
  • same happened to me. I went to and had my fuel filter housing rebuilt and my truck has never run better! that was two years ago.
  • waltingramwaltingram Posts: 1
    Are there any european diesel suvs that can be brought back to the states that are not already imported. I am interested in buying one there, using it and then shipping it back. thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    No, if it's not certified for the USA it's not coming here without enormous difficulties and no guarantee of success.


  • romemayaromemaya Posts: 1
    can someone help me i have a kia sedona common rail diesel 2.9 2002 model the engine turns over and has plenty of fuel going to the fuel injectors but the injectors dont have any power (volts) going to them .i have tested the power leads and when the engine is turned over there is no voltage going to them . i have checked all the fuses and they are all ok . and all connections are ok so iam confused as i have enough mechanical knolage to fix it but its got me buged?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Oh you must be in Canada or overseas? We don't get this vehicle in the US, so I don't have a database on it.

    Generally, on modern diesel the injectors are controlled electronically by a direct injection module. I think the only way to diagnose this is with a scan tool.

    So can you momentarily start the engine with a squirt of starting fluid? --use very sparingly on a diesel---I'm only asking so that you can double-check your original diagnosis--it should kick right off with starter fluid.

    If it doesn't start, you might check your glow plug circuit.


  • I need some advice.I have a 1989 timberjack logging skidder with a 4 cyl.cummins motor.The motor runs good and will pull a heavy load, wide open but when you let off the gas it smokes bad !! The smoke is whiteish with a strong smell of oil,but does not use any oil,and when it idles after it is hot the motor will start to miss a little.Could it be the turbo,or the head or maybe the rings.And how can I test it to see which.I would be grateful for any help.
  • Need a bit more info. How many hrs. on unit? Put your thumb on breather tube, should not feel over 8 - 15 psi air hose. Valves adjusted lately? Check exhaust port manifold temp with infrared temp gun...20*F +/- max with each other. Use temp gun at coolant outlet neck...195*F-230*F operating temperature. White smoke probably is from non-combusted fuel-if engine temp is ranging 130*F - 150*F operating temp this condition can occur. If low temp,check t-stat(opening to soon).
  • tilfordtilford Posts: 3
    Truck is building pressure in radiator and pushing coolant into overflow jug, then out of jug on ground. I replaced thermostat and radiator cap, still have same problem. The factory temp guage has never showed hot. Any suggestions ???????????????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    edited August 2011
    Gauge could be wrong. You might want to get a radiator thermometer to double-check. One thing that drives people nuts with diagnosing overheating issues is making assumptions, such as relying on the gauge, or thinking that because a part came new out of the box, then it must be good.

    If in fact you aren't overheating, then you might have a clogged radiator. Have you ever put a stop-leak product in it? That'll do it.


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