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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2000 Tahoe I bought it with 69000 Miles no visible oil leaks. 2 months later rear main seal leak,fixed, 2 months later same thing changed again. Then it all started sensor leak fixed, another sensor leak fixed, oil pan fixed, another sensor fixed, every sensor has been changed and it still leaks it only takes about 2 hours to spring a new leak it now has 91000 miles on a 5.3 liter. Has any one else had or ever heard of this or am I the one in a million. I want to sell it and buy a newer one but it's hard to sell a leaker.
  • I've got a 1997 Tahoe 5.7L and after driving a few other 1996 Tahoes w/ 5.7L engines I noticed they ran at about 170 degrees and at about 60 psi oil pressure. My 1997 runs at 195 degrees and at 40 psi oil. Whay the difference? I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city. I at least get 15 mpg or so on the highway, but the truck still runs hot at highway speeds. I've done many things too it recently too: replaced radiator/ alternator/ fuel filter/ plugs cap wires rotor/ thermostat/ oxygen sensors/ catalitic convertors/ muffler /ran fuel pressure diagnostic and it checked good. Whats going on? My plugs indicate that it runs lean. Do I have a leaking intake manifold gasket, or poss. a bad oil pump and/or water pump? Or is nothing wrong with this picture at all?
  • tsuami1 said: I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city.
    ___________________________________________________________
    Many thing can affect your mileage: quality of gas, the way you drive (quick stoplite starts, flooring the pedal to pass, etc) how fast you drive (usually the faster you go the less your mileage) state of engine tuneup, amount of air in tires, rear end gear ratios.......all these things affect mpg. Make sure you are not comparing apples to oranges when you compate your mpg with other vehicles.
  • I am having a similiar problem with my 2001 Chevy Tahoe, 60,000 miles, As the first published problem. At 2000 RPM or so a grinding noise comes from my engin compartment that seemes to be from a pump associated with the A.C. unit. When I turned off the AC unit the and drove the vehicle there was no noise. I brought to the local dealer and they have said the the compressor is trying to sieze up and the repair/replacement would be A WHOOPING $1700. becuase of my rear a/c. They said something like the lines need to flushed because of metal scrapes. What. If this is just a tension or spring issue that would save me a lot of money. Please Help A.S.A.P. I Live in San Antonio and its been very hot, until todays first rain in forever.
  • I had the same problem in my 2002 Tahoe, with the grinding/rattling sound when I turn on the ac. I took it to an independent garage/mechanic and he also said the same thing: I need new compressor cuz it's trying to seize up. He said the samething about the metal scraps, etc. The ac compressor belt finally just broke off and I have no ac.
    So I would like help with resolving this problem too.
  • Starultra

    I was wondering how you made out with the dead battery problem. I bought a Z71 Suburban back in 04 and have been having the same problem every since. The dealer says he can;t find the problem. Did you have any luck or answers?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    If your A/C compressor did not lock up yet you can try a very simple and low cost fix for saving it or at least extending the compressor's life.

    Go to an auto part store and buy a can of A/C compressor lubricant. It sounds like your compressor is running dry and that is why it is making noise and wants to seize up. You also need to have a service port hose to have lubricant added in the system.

    Procedure is very simple and could fix your problem. Compressor making noise kind of says it might be ready for change though.

    About metal scrap in the system it is very possible that you have metal shavings from the compressor in the system but there is a screen (at least in all cars that I have owned so far is) at the expansion valve. This very fine screen should catch pretty much all metal shavings that come from the compressor.

    The other thing that catches shavings is the dryer that is also located in the system before the evaporator coil. You want to change dryer and expansion valve at the same time if you need to replace your compressor.

    The quoted price of $1700 sounds way too high to me, but I'm used to work on these systems myself and don't even think about taking my vehicle for service like this. You just end up paying for something you don't need.

    Of course, if you are not a hands on person you may need to pay for it but I'm sure someone else will do it for much less than $1700.

    Compressor might cost a bit though but you can always find a rebuilt compressor from auto part store that is as good as a factory new one. Cost might be up from $300.

    --Arrie--
  • #81 of 86 Real world for Tahoe... by rspencer Sep 05, 2006 (11:37 am)
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    Interested in what Consumers Union, a.k.a., Consumer Reports found when they did a random dealer purchase and fuel economy test of a 2002 model year Tahoe, 5.3L, auto trans?

    CITY - 9 MPG

    Overall - 13 MPG

    I put this over here for u so u can see what is real world. U are getting real world for the 5.3L Tahoe. Your MPG is normal.

    I get about 14 MPG O/A.
  • To begin thanks to all those who responded to my post. They were helpful - thank you. In conclusion to finding out the problem and solution to the grinding noise at 2000 RPMS on my chevy tahoe, it did indeed come out to be the A/C compressor. The tensioner for the A/C unit may have created the problem originally, as it did not allow the A/C unit to run correctly. As a result my compressor began to grind, with failure emenant. The damage had already been done, so the compressor needed to be replaced. In addition, the tensioner needed to be replaced to prevent future problems, and the system did need a new filter (metal scraps, Orifice A and valve. The seem also was drained of fluid to ensure to particles got past the filter. The good part, well sort of, was that with the help of your comments I was able to have a working knowledge of the problem to discuss with repair shops and part suppliers. As a result, parts from the dealers repair estimate could have been bought from the same dealer at their commercial parts dept. for much less. Example was the compressor itself. Estimate cost $576.00 - Commercial Parts dept. cost $387.00. Same Part! I also called Part suppliers (Napa etc.) and their prices for new top end compressors were about $380.00. I told this to the service sales man and he just said "really". In summary, I took my car away from the dealer, went to a specialist with all my new knowledge, quoted prices for parts and discussed tensioners etc. After his inspection, he determined what I said above, the same as the dealer, but without all the bull such as "having rear A/C increases the price tremendouly". In fact having a rear A/C system only slightly changes the compressor unit. It does not involve two units. The final price $850.00. This saved me $900.00 from the dealers price.

    If I can help any one the all of you help me please let me know.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    dogbones,

    Thank you for letting us all know the end of your story, which was kind of a happy one when you was able to save a considerable amount of money.

    So many people posting here don't say a word about it. The trail of a problem just stops. Often it might mean (I hope) that this forum gave some help in fixing a problem but so many don't bother letting others know what really happened.

    Thanks to you!

    --Arrie--
  • DROVE THE TRUCK LAST NIGHT, RAN FINE...THIS MORNING I GOT IN AND THE DOME LIGHTS WERE BRIGHT, BUT AS SOON AS I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION I STARTED HEARING DIFFERENT CLICKING NOISES, LIGHTS WENT REALLY DIM, DOORS LOCKED ON THEIR OWN, THIS ALL WITHOUT TURNING THE KEY. THEN WHEN I TURNED THE KEY, I HAVE NOTHING...NO LIGHTS, NO SOUNDS, NOTHING. I INITIALLY SUSPECTED THE ALTERNATOR, BUT THE RESPONSE I GET WHEN I ONLY INSERT THE KEY CONFUSES ME, LIKE MAYBE I HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE. WHAT DO YOU THINK? ANYONE EVER HAD THIS PROBLEM?
  • I just learned my 2002 Tahoe has a disable system when the vehicle senses it is being stolen. Perhaps the system does not like the key you are using, esp if its a copy. Make sure you use the factory key to start and see iof that makes a differnce.
  • From: need411 I didn't get any replies so I fixed it the easy way. I traded it in on a 2005 Yukon. Let the dealer or next guy figure it out. Good Luck
  • I noticed a few drops of water leaking from the sunroof of my new 2007 Tahoe. I took it to the dealer and they were able to reproduce the problem. I was told by the service department to be "normal" in this model as the sunroof has some kind of drainage. I tried to get an answer directly from GM and I am still waiting... Has anybody experienced similar problems?
  • Xavier it is not normal for any sunroof to leak. You shouldn't let them lie to you like that and demand that they fix your truck. My mom was considering getting an Armada until we found out all the trouble with the brakes. Then we decided to go with the new Tahoe and upon reviewing we are becoming very cautious in what we choose. Please keep us updated and at all costs demand that they fix your car.
  • Hi everyone-
    I have a 1999 Tahoe with 134K. I went on a 500mi round trip and returned home. The next day I tried to start the car, motor turned over very well, strong battery and voltage, but it would not fire and has not since.

    First- I had already replaced the fuel pump (and filter) with an AC Delco 3 months prior. The pump still sounded very strong, I checked the shraeder valve at the fuel rail and there appears to be plenty of fuel (50psi+).

    Next step- I checked the spark figuring something wore out. Turns out I have enough spark to arc weld with.

    Next- Poured gas in the throat (a fairly large amount) and the car sputtered to life for approx 2-3 seconds.

    Diagnosis- We figured only when we absolutely flood the injectors with fuel will the car even attempt to fire, could this mean my injectors arent openning at the correct time? If so, we thought possibly replacing the ignition control module might fix this, does that control the firing of the injectors? I know there is a test with a voltage meter to check this, but I do not know the specific test.

    Please help, any and all information would be greatly appreciated- I hate to just throw parts at a problem if someone else has a better idea!
  • I am having the same problem with my Tahoe... rough idle and frequent stalling when at idle. Any help you could offer?
  • My Tahoe is experiencing similar issues. Rough idle and frequent stalling while idling.... any help you could offer?
  • I think I may have found a solution to the rough idle. It was as simple as a $3 can of throttle body cleaner. I took off my air intake manifold and cleaned out the valve, which was all gunked up with carbon. It is now running like a charm... thus far. I just did it a couple of hours ago, and took it on a test drive. I put my Tahoe through the paces, and through several circumstances which would normally stall it out, and it ran fine, didnt stall, and the idle sounded wonderful.
  • My air conditioner has been working perfectly when all of a sudden hot air began to flow from the driver's side vents. All the other vents including the back seat were emitting cold air. Any advice?
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