Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

1131416181925

Comments

  • spgmehspgmeh Posts: 1
    Have the same problem with my '03 Tahoe. Did you ever figure it out?
  • I have a 2003 Tahoe and a couple weeks ago my oil pressure guage went from the normal 40 to 80 and stayed there. Now while at a stop (with the engine running) it brops to about 70 but when I drive it goes back to 80. I have had many people tell me it could be several different things. Wondering if anyone else had this problem before.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I think the little electronic device on the key ring with the key, that you use to lock and unlock the doors, is called a "transponder." My "fell" on the pavement and no longer works. The electronic case separated, and the little circular disk fell out. I put it back together, but it no longer works. I see on the Internet several places that sell them. My question: if I get one from a place through the Interent, how do you "match" it to my Tahoe (2005)? Thanks.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    The little "circular disk" is the battery and has to go in the correct way as it has a positive and negative side. Make sure it's in correctly before giving up on it.

    I got one on the internet for my wife's 2004 and the site specified which year I could order. Here's free "how to program" instructions: programyourremote
  • I have a 2004 Tahoe w/Z71 package, 5.3L V8 MFI FF with 100K miles. Use it in my work and have to put on a lot of "road" miles. A week ago, it ran a little hot, about 220-230 F, not red-line. Carried it in to the dealer who informed me that the coolant was 1.5 gallons low. No noticeable leaks, no residue on engine. They pulled the valve covers and noticed coolant residue. They said that I needed to replace both cylinder heads, bolts and gaskets, approx: $3K, due to porosity of the cylinder head metal. Is this possible or am I being hosed? If true, why would GM due something this stupid and why wouldn't they feel an obligation to correct their mistake and why would it be just showing up after 100K miles of relatively good service?
  • jk06jk06 Posts: 7
    Have you noticed any coolant leaking on the ground? Chevy's biggest problem has been intake manifold gasket. My tahoe was leaking right behind the water pump fluid coming out of intake manifold and evaporating on the engine. I had added antifreeze several times and could not figure out where it was going. If you replace the manifold gasket buy them from GM, they have since redesigned the gasket. Aftermarket gasket I would not recommend!
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Is there a term for the plastic "housing" attached to the ceiling above the middle front seat, adjacent to the windshield? The covers the OnStar stuff and 2 ceiling lights. Anyway, it seems to have come unattached at the end adjacent to the windshield. Does the entire housing need to be replaced? Is this something I can do, or do I need to take it to the dealer? Thanks.
  • Thanks for your response. Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. As I pointed out, there were no visible signs of leaks or drips from gaskets or the water pump. The engine was very clean. I took it over to an independent mechanic and he went on-line to a website called "ALL DATA on Line" which appears to be a pay site & bam, there it was: "Engine - Coolant Loss With No Visible Leaks" This problem is not isolated to to Chevy Tahoes. Appears to effect several GM models and even Saabs from 2001-2006.
    Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. If you have direct contacts with the GM reps, let me know the feed-back you get.
    Thanks
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Turns out there's a screw that had come lose.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Right rear brake light went out during warranty period - approx. 32,000 miles, 33 months. At dealer now - indication is that it's a warranty item. Service advisor keeps trying to push the transmission service on me. Online owner's manual says 100,000 miles, or maybe 50,000 miles depending on how Tahoe is driven. Mine is about 60-65% highway, rest in town. Think I'll wait until at least 50,000 miles.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 477
    Absolutely do not need the transmission service at this time.
  • Did you ever figure out how to fix that squeaky noise in your Tahoe? I have a 2003 and I am having the same problem.
  • d1514sd1514s Posts: 1
    I have a Z71 2004 and was told the the cylinder heads needed replacement because of coolant loss with no visible signs from the engine. I had it done and only paid for the labor. The parts used were all listed as warranty. I am in the process of contacting GM as I would like to know why this repair should not be covered by them. The truck has 86000 miles on it. There was no loss of power or anything unusual happening to its performance. I will keep you all posted on the response, if any, from GM.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well the warranty is 36K miles, right? You're only 50K plus out of warranty...surprised they even picked up the parts.
  • 10/12/2008
    I had the same experience with my 2004 Z-71 Tahoe back in June of this year. There were no visible signs of leaks or drips from gaskets or the water pump. After being jacked around by the the GM dealer that I bought the Tahoe from and being told that I needed to spend between $3,500.00 - $5,000.00 for new cylinder heads, I took it over to an independent mechanic and he went on-line to a website called "ALL DATA on Line" which appears to be a pay site & bam, there it was: "Engine - Coolant Loss With No Visible Leaks" This problem is not isolated to to Chevy Tahoes. Appears to effect several GM models and even Saabs from 2001-2006.
    Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. I didn't want to put that much into a 100k mile vehicle, so we did a band-aid approach by installing some $4.00 radiator sealer that plugged the porosity leak. It's been running great for over 20K miles with no leaks.You will get no help from GM on this one.
    Good Luck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Yes but that ALLDATA reference is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) and relates only to cylinder heads manufactured by Castech, and only to Castech cylinder heads that exhibit porosity issues upon inspection. So it's not all the cylinder heads and not even all the Castech heads.

    MODERATOR

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    $4 radiator sealer seems to have stopped my coolant leak too. Have not lost any coolant for about 7000 miles since adding it in.

    Arrie
  • 10/13/2008
    Mr. Shiftright,
    I think that is exactly what I said in items # 471 & 478. I specifically referenced Castech as the manufacturer of the cylinder heads listed in the service bulletin from ALLDATA.My disappointment on this issue is GM's position on repair and warranty. The problem seems to be fairly common if it is in a service bulletin and GM simply blows off their customers that are putting out some very serious money for an upper-end SUV. If Castech is putting out an inferior product, it would appear that GM would make them stand behind their product or find a better manufacturer of cylinder heads. The mechanic that got me to try the sealant could have taken the low road and told me the same thing that the GM dealer did, but he didn't. GM simply said, "sorry you have a problem", not taking into account they had sold me and others inferior cylinder heads. Their only suggestion was to replace the inferior parts they installed using my money for about $5,000.00 to $6,000.00. I own my own business as well and I don't treat my customers that way. By they way, the Castech cylinder heads showed up in certain Saab models as well, (reference # 471).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Yes I understand but I guess I was unclear that even the Castech heads have to "fail" the inspection to have been replaced in warranty period.

    So I see your problem as having two dimensionis here: a) did in fact your Castech heads fail the inspection or did they exhibit no evidence of porosity and b) even if they did fail, GM is not under any legal obligation to assist you other than "good will"--which apparently they did to 1/2 the price.

    I know it's disagreeable, but IMO the situation turned out better for you than it did for a lot of people.

    If I may at least suggest this: that you consider the use you got out of the heads in terms of mileage and that in a sense you got a "pro-rate" deal.

    MODERATOR

  • 10/13/2008
    Mr. Shiftright:
    I don't want to argue semantics or even perspective with you, all I'm saying is if GM is installing an inferior part on any of their cars and trucks that has been giving problems for a number of years, they should address it.Take better care of the people that have supported them through good years as well as bad. GM is trading today @ $6.46 compared to a year ago @ $42.84, maybe they can't afford to address anything, but keeping the ship afloat. By they way, I would not consider $5,000.00 - $6,000.00 to repair a defective part a 50% discount. I was quoted less than 50% of that by another mechanic.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    yes I understand. I was just saying that your prior use of the engine does count as value given you. It would be arguable that you receive total compensation. But I do agree their estimate for the work seems outrageous. Certainly not anything I'd agree to.

    It seems reasonable to me that you'd have the outside mechanic fix the truck. You can't buy a substitute for $2,500.

    MODERATOR

  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    tahoess2004 said: all I'm saying is if GM is installing an inferior part on any of their cars and trucks that has been giving problems for a number of years, they should address it
    ____________________________________________________________________
    You are correct. Maybe I am old fashioned but I don't consider cylinder heads on an engine a service item....they should last as long as the engine block other than valve guides, etc. The heads themselves should not have defective castings that lets water seep through the metal. How the hell does this stuff happen? And why does GM not step up to the plate and take care of business on this stuff? I have an '06 Suburban approaching the end of factory warranty and I am now looking into buying an extended warranty to cover the vehicle for another 4yrs/40,000 miles because of all the transmission failures, $1,000 fuel pump replacements, etc. occuring on these late model GM units. My last new Suburban was a '92 and when I sold it it had 160K miles on it...with original fuel pump, transmission, engine, etc. As they say "they don't build 'em like they used to". Nowdays it is all electronic gadgets, nice interiors, fancy wheels, etc. I want an SUV with bulletproof power train and fuel pumps that last the life of the vehicle. Probably asking way too much.
  • My 'burb has 5.7L and 160K miles. We've been driving less and less with the high gas prices. I've developed a small leak around the housing where the oil filter attaches. What could this be? Anybody have experience with this problem?
  • Evenin'

    Can anyone think of any problems if I replace my rear bench seat with 2 bucket seats?

    I have a 2003 Z71 Tahoe, so you know. (with 140,000 miles on it!)

    Thanks!
    Alex
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Biggest problem I can foresee is how you anchor them safely. One just can't go drilling holes in the floor. Your seats are anchored to specially welded points so if your new seats don't line up you're going to have to figure out how to anchor them safely. Drilling to thin floor sheet metals and adding some big washers is simply not good enough. Those will tear right out in a collision.

    MODERATOR

  • Yeah, that was my first thought. Thanks for confirming the terrifying thought of the seats ripping out of the floor, ha!

    I just brought my truck in for a checkup before the winter. Its been making an odd vibration from the front left wheel area, especially when I turn right at highway speeds (65-75mph). We'll see what they come up with. Any thoughts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Well turning right "loads" up the left side of the car. Could be lots of things, from wheel alignment to funky tire to very weak springs/shocks on that side causing interference with the tire perhaps?

    MODERATOR

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    If it's 4WD then could be CV joint.
  • djollydjolly Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. When I turn left or right while braking it will cut off. It doesn't do it all the time but did it twice this morning. I'm thinking whatever it is is getting worse.It will restart with no trouble though. I'm not sure if it's just a loose wire or something more serious. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    That is bizarre. Is this a sputtering kind of thing, or is it like someone turned off your key and threw it out the window? In other words, have you ever been able to straighten the car out just before stalling and have it kick back on?

    MODERATOR

Sign In or Register to comment.