Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

1151618202137

Comments

  • I just finished reading my owner’s manual again for the 2nd time and the WARRANTY Manual that came with my 2004 Tahoe.

    I believe that I found out something really good for everyone concerned. Even after our 36/36 warranty has run out there are still several hundred parts that are covered under factory warranty that you probably don't know about up to 70K, 100K and even 150K for some parts.

    For instances anything having to do with the emissions, and I mean anything. Even your Air Filter is covered up to 100K. The list is to long to type out, but I recommend that everyone read it.

    Most of the problems listed above and in the forum are covered under factory warranty up to 100,000 miles that the dealers will not tell you about. You would not believe me if I typed it out, so please read your warranty manual to see for your self.

    Also you can replace your factory parts with an after market part and you will not void any of the warranties. That is so long as the after market part is of the same quality or better than GM uses. And that is not hard to beat in most cases.

    I have replaced at my expense, my Air Intake to a K&N 5700 series, my spark plugs to E3 and my plug wires to MSD Super Conductors. I have also replaced my Transmissin pan and Differential Cover with a MAG-HYTEC pan and cover. These hold more fluid and keep the parts cooler. Especially if you tow a trailer or do 4 wheeling. In addition I used Full Synthetic gear oil and Transmission fluid instead of the stock fluid and gear oil. This will also help the part last a lot longer. Anything small to help my 2004 Tahoe Z71 get better mpg and allow me to prevent any costly maintenance I have decided to do. As soon as I can afford it, I'm going to replace my stock coils with the MSD coils. The MSD coils will also improve the mpg as they put out a multiple spark compared to the stock coils. You can pick up a set of all 8 for a little over $700.00 at Kragens or Pep-Boys.

    I guarantee that 99.9% of you will be shocked to discover that you have purchased a part that was covered under warranty. :)
  • Hey Sasz71, how is the truck now? My 2002 Tahoe with 68k has the same problem, just started.
  • After about $1000 in replacing plugs and the MAF, I brought it to someone different and they discovered that my Manifold seal was cracked and leaking gas and air! This air leak was causing the LEAN BANK-1 and LEAN BANK-2 codes to be thrown. So another $500 and everything runs smoothly.
  • Hello - My 2004 Tahoe Z71 is currently in the shop for the samething. I had in the shop about 8 months ago with the same problem. The chevy dealership said it was a eletrical short. 900.00 later it was fixed. Until now, it is going to cost me another 900.00 to repalce the computer. I am trying to find out more about this. I am sure it is something I can by for about 200.00 and install it myself. Thanks Rich
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I would not say it's cured, but I listen for the noise everyday and only occassionally do I get the knocking noise on early morning start-ups. The Lucus oil additive seems to work with no adverse effects.
  • Thanks Sasz71. I went to the dealer yesterday and after talking to them for about 30 min, I'm starting to think it might be ok. Basically the sound only happens when on a cold start below 40deg, which is not so often in Dallas where I live. And it goes away in like 10-15 sec. If I let the engine idle a bit before taking off, no sound either. Otherwise the engine runs really good. The mechanic said his truck does the same thing. Since my truck is not under warranty, the dealer could have offered to make some expensive repairs, but they did not. So I at least have to assume they believe what they are saying to me. I'm willing to live with it for now and hope for the best. I'm not to inclined to put oil additives, but I might consider using synthethic oil in my next oil change to see if that changes anything. The dealer rep was not a big fan of synthetic oil either he said it was a not needed expense.

    br,
    tomkost
  • HEY I WAS WONDERING IF YOU EVER FIG OUT THIS PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE VERY VERY RAMPID WITH TAHOES! I AM WORKING ON PURCHASING ONE MYSELF AND I KNOW THE PREVIOUS OWNER THEY HAD THIS EXACT PROBLEM ---NOTE TO ALL --- BC THE DEALER SHIP COULDNT FIX IT THEY GAVE BACK ALL MONEY FOR VEHICLE EVEN AFTER HE HAD IT FOR WELL OVER A YEAR-- CATCH IS HE HAD TO UPGRADE TO A NEWER VEHICLE AND AMT WAS APPLIED TO THE NEW VEHICLE SO HE GOT A 9995.00 TOWARDS HIS NEWER VEHICLE IN THE END ONLY LOSING MONEY SPENT TRYING TO FIX THE PROBLEM!! SO BE HARDNOSED AND SEE WHAT YOU CAN DO! ALTHOUG ANY HELP WITH THE PROBLEM WOULD BE GREAT!! :confuse:
  • mimanmiman Posts: 3
    I have this on my 01 tahoe. I agree with bamspeck. I would have found that a syn. oil (amsoil 0w-30) all but eliminates the problem. Sticks to the metal parts better.
  • My wife's 04 Tahoe had the same problem two years ago while it was under warrenty and they fixed it. Now it has happened again and we took it to the dealership and they were going to replace the same part. So I said BS to that and we are ordering the part. It's part AC/Delco #89018365 found on this website https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,ACDELCO,HEAT+xxampxx+AIR+CONDITIONING,6848,HE- ATER+xxampxx+AC+CONTROLSxxslashxxVALVESxxslashxxACTUATOR
  • I am very upset right now and wondered if anyone else had this problem.. i originally brought my tahoe in 3 weeks ago for noise in the rear end, they came back and said there was metal grining in the differential and fixed it under my extended warranty. 2 weeks after getting it fixed a noise was still there, i returned it back to the same dealer today and now I am being told that i did something to the rear end and something had cracked, i was even asked at one point if i had gotten into an accident when i have never been in an accident in this vehicle. This just sounds to strange/odd to me when i had my vehicle in 3 weeks ago for the same noise that they are now saying is my fault and is not covered under warranty, how can a rear end problem be my fault? How did they not find it 3 weeks ago. Anybody with comments please, this just sounds like a bunch of bull to me. I have an exteneded warranty I paid for, I just don't get it. :sick:
  • bk777bk777 Posts: 32
    Take a look at this document.

    http://www.doacs.state.fl.us/press/2004/06162004.html

    We had a very similar experience at Just Brakes with our Tahoe earlier today. Anyone else out there experience this problem?

    The state Attorney General's office currently lists 49 complaints filed by consumers in the state of TX alone.

    Bait and switch is the technique being used by Just Brakes...according to the Florida press release.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Posts: 12
    Help! Now that I have my low RPM thing fixed, I have another problem. When accelerating, what sounds to me like being directly underneath the drivers and passengers seats is a sound like pieces of aluminium clanking together. It only happens when I accelerate, usually from a dead stop and ALWAYS stops when I release the throttle.

    In addition to that, when I hit 70mph I get a vibration that sounds like its coming from the back. Over 80 mph (oops) it stops. Wierd.

    Any help??
  • Did you ever find where the fuel pressure regulator is located on your tahoe. I have a 1999 suburban and am trying to change mine too. Was it difficult?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    This is where it is located on my 00 silverado 5.3 see the gold circular object? Look at the C in Vortec and go down from there. It was simple to change took 5 min.

    image
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    They are trying to get money of you. Get a lawyer to give them a call. It usually helps when the dealer knows they are wrong.

    If you paid for extended warranty they are responsible of fixing it. There is no way you can do any harm to the differential other than if you had an accident and the rear axle received a strong hit or something. And you did not have an accident, right?

    The car engine power is not enough to damage the differential if it is designed correctly what is we all must assume. If something is cracked in differential it most likely is material fault.

    Don't give in. Make them fix it under warranty you paid for.

    Arrie
  • marvkmarvk Posts: 2
    When I first start my 07 LTZ the humming from the fuel pump is very loud, warmed up at idle it is quieter but still noticeable.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My husband just pointed out to me that the "arms" of the gas and brake pedals are both rusty looking on our 2004, 27,000 mile Tahoe. The service guy seemed to not know how to reply at first, then said the guy next to him (this over the phone) said that it is normal. Seems weird when we don't live in New Orleans (flood!) nor near the beach. Why would they be rusting inside the truck? He said it is uncoated metal and just having wet feet would be enough. Is this a problem or is it normal? The warranty ends in July.

    Also, on the warranty subject, is there anything that I should have checked before it runs out? I am wondering if there are any known issues that I may not be aware of that could be detected early. Thanks.
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    Check the zoot (carpet padding). From the area near the brake pedal, pull the carpet up and reach down to feel the padding on the floor. If it is wet and unless somone took it all a part to clean and dry it, it is probably still wet. That is a sign you have a swamp salvage. Keep looking for signs like watermark stains on the door panels, rust on the condensor outside the vehile, etc.

    It won't necessarily show up in Car Fax or any other vehile history records. Buyer beware. But if has been swamped, especially in salt water and you bought it from a dealership, sue! They know if if they deny.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Forgot to mention that we bought it new, and have never had it in water deeper than your average deep road puddle. Is this a normal condition, or does it signify a leak from possible the engine compartment or somewhere? Dealer tried to make it sound "normal".
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    Glad to hear you don't have a swamp salvage.

    My 2002 brake pedal arm looks painted black and the gas pedal rod looks like aluminum, no signs of rust. If yours is uncoated, it might be normal to have some minor surface rust just from the moisture in the air but very minor at most. I would still check for moisture under the carpet. If you do have a leak and the carpet padding is wet, it will not dry but rust out your floor given the heat from the exhaust will excellerate the process.
Sign In or Register to comment.