Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

1171820222325

Comments

  • rolexrolex Posts: 1
    When I do the scheduled maintenance to my TAHOE (oil change), what do I have to do o reset the "OIL LIFE %" message on the dash screen?? Do I have to make some kind of rest or does it recognize oil was changed???
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    well read the manual.............

    Display engine oil life on DIC, press and hold the reset button
  • I have the chance to purchase a 99 tahoe for $750. It has 135000 miles and runs. The engine runs rough but when I put my hand over the exhaust pipe it isn't a miss in the firing. The car has sat for 2 years. it blows hot air, but when I checked the antifreeze it was half full. This is a corporate vehicle so it has been maintained. I did drive it and it drives with the roughness and gets up to 65 easily. I have read about many intake gaskets, fuel problems, etc. and wanted someone elses point of vew on the . the truck is in great shape and has all the bells and whistles. it is an 8 cylinder, 2 wheel drive LS. Thanks in advance for any comments.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,930
    Well you could have it scanned for trouble codes, and also do a cooling system pressure test to see where the coolant went---you'll have to find that leak regardless.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    If it's a LS, it can't have all of the bells and whistles as that was the base model and some options available on the LT and Z71 weren't available on the LS. That being said, if you like it and the price is right, then make it yours. You can check Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, and NADA to see what it's worth w/ the options it has. Good luck.
  • my tahoe is making a rattling noise by the front wheel on the passenger side. It is not constant. I also hear a humming noise when i am driving it. I checked the oil and it seems to be fine. Any suggestions on what the problem could be?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    bad cv joint, loose lugnuts
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,930
    Is this a very light rattle? If so, I'd check the retaining springs or clips for your front brake pads.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 2000 chevy tahoe, that i've had for 2 years, it has a little over 15000 miles on it and we've never had any problems except for the battery dying, when we were a ways from home, the car started acting like it was outta gas, and after we pulled over we couldn't get it to stay running. dropped the tank and cleaned it out(had alot of sediment) replaced the fuel filter twice,(both of which needed cleaned after we tried to start) changed the fuel pump relay.The fuel pump itself will prime when the key is turned but it will never stay running, keeps trying but won't stay running more then a minute, and then our battery is usually dead and needs re charged.
    :confuse: :sick:
  • Where do you live?
    First off, I've changed 2 alternators in the past 3 years in my '96... might be the cause of the dead battery. Otherwise, check for a light staying on, ie glove-box, under the hood...?
    You don't say if you changed the fuel pump, (low pressure) but I'd be looking for a gas line leak, sucking air, somewhere. Try bleeding the gas line at the engine, there should be what looks like a tire valve, if not, loosen the line...might be an air bubble, or dirt, jammed up in there...
    If you're where the temperature goes between freezing and not, and do a few miles before it acts up, look for a vacuum leak to the breather... the breather warm-air valve, from the exhaust manifold don't work, causing intake gas to freeze, reducing gas flow. Usually, the valve is ok, it's the supply line that's leaking... find a full-time vacuum line and plug it there, to get home, or use a lot of gas-line ante-freeze!
    Keep us posted! :)
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Need to check fuel pressure to verify if the pump is good or not.
  • My a/c blower works fine,..( aside from some blower noise ) but there is no cold air. I have tried to recharge and it doesn't seem to take. A dealer has done a leak check and couldn't find any leaks. Occasionally, I hear a "gurgle" noise after the truck is turned off,...any suggestions? Could this problem be caused by a plugged drain line? Any help would be appreciated!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you (or the dealer) put on a set of pressure gauges, to measure the pressures in the system on the high and low side? This checks whether the compressor is able to pull down a vacuum to the correct low pressure, whether you have too little or too much freon in the system, whether you are getting freon flow thru the orifice, whether your high/low switches are working correctly, etc.

    Once that is all working correctly, then they should check that air mixture doors are working correctly.
  • well only on the charge side,...the pressure when charging is good,..when the compressor kicks in the pressure drops and nothing is discharged from the charging canister,.............
  • I am trying to replace the turn signal switch on my 2000 Tahoe and the new part is missing a pair of wires with a quick connect that would connect to a switch directly behind the gear shift arm and this has something to do with taking the car out of Park. What does that control that is activated or de activated by the gear lever do? I'm guessing that it has something to do with the daytime running lights, but that is only a guess. By the way, the problem with the turn signal is that it continues to make the clicking noise after the wheel is centered. the lights are not flashing, but the noise is very annoying.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    The charging bottle should be connected to the low side. With the compressor running, the low side should be ~30 psi and high side ~250 psi. These are very approx. numbers. When you open the valve to allow the freon into the low side, the pressure will go up because the freon vapor pressure is ~120 psi. Also the high pressure will start to go up. When the valve is closed, the low pressure should go back down. Be sure you don't over-charge.

    Not sure I understand this: "and nothing is discharged from the charging canister,............. " Unless you have the bottle connected to the high side which is dangerous.
  • Thanks,..yes I did have the initial pressure but when the compressor kicked in,..pressure was lost,....I would think that would indicate a small leak? Bad compressor? However the dealer couldn't find any leaks,...

    re: "nothing is dis,...." it seems no refridgerant left the container. The nipple on the charging unit doesnt fit on the high side,...so it was the low side,....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I find this hard to believe, you need to get a different 'dealer'. Is this a Chevrolet dealership you are taking it to? Any competent dealership should be able to find and fix air conditioning system problems. They can tear it apart and rebuild it, if they have to.

    If this really was a Chev dealership, then go find another Chev dealership or a specialty air conditioning repair shop.
  • anedreanedre Posts: 1
    My car has been drinking large amounts of anti-freeze recently. In the last months probably atleast 10 gallons. I've tried leak fluid and nothing has worked, and I haven't had time to drain it and try head gasket leak fluid. Also, today it broke down on the highway, I thought I may have run out of gas even though the gas light was still on 1/4 so I had a buddy bring me gas. The car started back up and a bunch of white smoke came out of the exhaust. I drove it to the next exit with the engine only allowing me to go about 40-50mph and as I got off the car stalled again and we left it there. Also, there is a red neutral on the transfer case on the inside that came on last night.

    I drive a 1999 Tahoe and we replaced a tube from the radiator to the overflow tank about a month ago. I do heavy canyon driving because I ski 3-4 days a week. Any ideas? What's the problem?

    Thanks

    :confuse: :sick:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like a blown head gasket, very bad for your engine and catalytic converter.

    Get it fixed quickly before you ruin both.
  • i have a 99 tahoe and it keeps hesitating i had the codes read and it said misfire and 02 sensor was bad so i fixed both on passenger side then i changed the coil then it said the 02 sensor was bad in bank 1 so i changed the one on the driver side and the truck still is doing the same thing anyone have any ideas
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    You have to remember that the DTC is only an indication of an area where you start the diagnostic fault tree, not necessarily an indication of what part(s) need replacing. The factory service manual has the fault trees.
  • rox430rox430 Posts: 2
    I've had this same exact banging/clanking on my '01 Tahoe LT for some time now. Has anyone else experienced this or had it fixed? Not sure if it's a problem with the universal joint, or the clutch, or something else. Clank is loud enough to make people turn their heads.

    Replying to: shineslee (May 22, 2006 6:44 am)
    Hi, I'm new here, and my first topic of course is going to be something about my new truck. I JUST bought this Tahoe home friday night. We haven't signed the paperwork till tonight (Monday).
    First thing, the truck runs good. Bad thing, the Tranny is making a hard "clank" noise everytime it shifts to 2rd or to 3rd gear at 1500 RPM. And when it slows down, it does the same thing...

    Is it something that could be easily fixed? What could it be? Does it need a new Transmission already?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Well hopefully you had someone check out what the clanking was in the transmission before you purchased the vehicle........

    You could be staring at a couple thousand dollar repair bill......used cars are sold 'as-is'.
  • rox430rox430 Posts: 2
    I'm the original owner...post was in response to an earlier similar post from a couple years ago
  • dantheman3dantheman3 Posts: 14
    edited March 2010
    Hello out there. I have an 03 Tahoe with 64k. Truck has been babied, all service done. Front differential rebuilt at 60k (I tow in the summer) still shouldn't need that at 60k. I have a strange noise after truck has been driven and is still warm. Upon restart the engine idles rough and when I rev the engine on down rev there is a loud vibration, rubbing, something very loud coming from the the bottom of the engine area. After a couple revs the noise fades and the engine purrs. Anyone have an idea? I've had the idler checked, all belts, A/C system, worried I will be out towing the trailer this summer and this will bite me. Took it to the dealer and of course can never replicate. Happens 2-3 times a month.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Is fan hitting the fan shroud?
  • Thanks for your reply. I wonder if that would make the engine run rough for a few seconds then smooth out again. I will definitely have that checked.
  • Man i just spent the past couple of hours reading this. I inherated a 2k4 Tahoe LT from my little brother last August. I had all the fluids and filters changed when I got it. He was not the best on maintenance. It has run fine since then. I had the plugs done last week. She is still running like a top. I let my wife drive it as I have a 2k3 Durango and a 2k9 Outback. I baby my vehicles so I always shoot for 300,000 miles. How many others have really high mileage vehicles and how have you maintained them? Hope this is not a thread hijack!! :P
  • I have an apparent problem with the steering in my "03 Tahoe with 30,000 miles (presently). There was a repair made within the warranty period by my Chev. dealer which seemed to correct the problem. This repair was made with the vehicle having approximately 12,000 miles. NOW this Government Motors Tahoe is clunking again with the vehicle out of warranty. Also several months ago I received an engineering blog wherein Government motors. was taking legal action against a supplier for their supplying this defective steering product which has cost Government Motors 90 million in warranty repairs. I haven't heard anything since although I did E-mail this info. to my dealer. I am not surprised that I received no reply!

    Anyway, can anyone provide me with info on just what the source of this steering "clunking" is and what is the part(s) needed to make the repair? Will this be a difficult repair? I most certantly am not going to pay Government Motors to make the repairs and most probably will not buy another GM product...Think Toyota.
    Thanks for the assistance.
Sign In or Register to comment.