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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    Yes, they say a pressure test was done. I cant argue with them.
    But my truck never got hot. Not even once,now I have a new
    w/p as well as new pads and new rotors on the rear. I've heard
    that if you get 83k miles out of your brakes, you should be
    happy but today a guy told me he didn't need them until he
    had 143k miles. I do a lot of city driving and I understand
    the demand that puts on a truck. My wallet is a lot lighter too!
    thanks for your advice Shark, I apprec it.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did they say what was wrong w/ the rotors?
  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    They said they were just worn down to the point that they couldn't be turned. I asked (based on my experience from the cars I had when I was a kid) then
    why didnt it shake & shimmy. Their response was because they were only
    worn down, not warped. This shop has a rep for being honest but several years
    ago they were bought by some larger company and maybe the "neighborhood
    shop" mentality is gone. BTW could the w/p seep fluid for a long time before
    finally failing or is it a sudden death event?
    thnks again./dc
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Not sure why they would need to be replaced if they weren't warped. I really doubt if they'd never been turned before that they'd be too thin to use. That really should have been the first pad replacement for the rears unless there was hardly any hwy miles.
    FYI: for future reference, the min. thickness is stamped in the rotor. But that's just so someone doesn't turn them below that and make them too thin.

    Usually seeping is a sign of impending failure in my experience. When the seal goes, then you lose coolant fast.
  • suzydallsuzydall Posts: 1
    Hi guys,
    I am a newbie and need all the help I can get. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LS with 143,000 miles on it. Yesterday morning when I got in it there was an awful ticking noise and it was running bad. The oil pressure is usually great, if anything it runs a little high. Yesterday, it was running around 30. I took it directly to my brother. The ticking sounded like it was coming from the valve cover on the drivers side. He pulled it off and it was thick with milky looking oil. We cleaned them up and replaced the gaskets. When I drove home last night the ticking was gone. I got up this morning the ticking is back the oil pressure is down again and now the low coolant light is on and the temperature is down slightly. Am I in real trouble here? What kind of problem am I looking at? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am not a big money girl and my car isn't throwing any codes. I don't want to keep driving and do any damage. :sick:

    Thanks in advance!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well the milky looking oil means the water from the radiator has gotten into your engine. That could be from a blown headgasket, or a worse internal engine problem. The head gasket is between the engine block and the heads (which have the valves that you undoubtedly saw when you took the valve covers off).

    Since your coolant light is also on, you have a definite problem. Do not drive it.
  • nkturnlnkturnl Posts: 2
    my tahoe stalls when im turning at a slow idle. thats the only time it does it. also my ac doesnt blow cold air in my middle or back seats. the front blows great. i just changed my brakes and my abs and break idiot lights came on. does anyone know why.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check to see that the wheel sensors were put back in place, or one may have been damaged. Check also to see that you have enough brake fluid in the master cylinder.

    Regarding your rear AC, is the symptom that the fan speed does not adjust and blow higher volumes of air? or is the symptom that the air flow is correct, but it's not cold enough?
  • nkturnlnkturnl Posts: 2
    thanks it was on for a few min. now i have driven it alot more it hasnt come on at all. fluid is fine and thr sensers looked ok. abiut the ac it blows fine in the back it just doesnt blow cold at all. the front is perfect. any idea why the tahoe is stalling when i take a turn at a very slow fires right back up when it stalls.and it does it at all diff levels of fuel. that has been bugging me for years.i took it into the dealership and they charged me 800 buck and didnt fix it.its really starting to worry me cuz my daughter is starting to drive now.
  • heldstabheldstab Posts: 1
    are aftermarket catalytic converters as good as factory converters for the 2002 tahoe
  • mike123mike123 Posts: 10

    These lights come on together and stay on at various times. Can anyone provide a diagnosis?

    Thank You
  • mike123mike123 Posts: 10
    Can you buy the little silver strips that go inside the black door strips on all 4 door?

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take it and have any error codes read out of the computer, many auto parts chains will do it for free.

    Brake Warning indicator is set by:
    - BCM body control module detects park brake is engaged
    - BCM detects low brake fluid condition
    - IPC performs bulb check
    - EBCM detects ABS disablilng malfunction

    ABS indicator is set by:
    - EBCM detects an ABS disabling malfunction
    - IPC performs bulb check
    - IPC detects a loss of serial data communication w/EBCM
    - a DTC is set during previous ignition cycle
  • mike123mike123 Posts: 10
    Thank You,

    When they come on, they come on together.
  • Hi everyone and thanks in advance for your input. I have a 95 tahoe. The 4 wheel drive has worked without fail for as long as i have had it (6 years). Just recently the 4 wheel drive would not engage althought the lights indicate that it had engaged. After about 3 days of this the indicator light stopped coming on and now i am without 4 wheel drive. Its not too big of an issue right now as the snow has melted but i would like to trouble shoot this in the cheapest way possible. ie forum advice. Thanks again.
  • I have the same problem with an 04 Suburban. I put in some "liquid glass" and drove it for about an hour. It seems to have slowed the leak, but I am still using too much coolant. What radiator sealer did you use and is it still holding? As you know, GM is not going to help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bars Leak is the best I've ever found over the years.

    Jar of black juice w/what looks like little black turds in it.
  • Had the same clunking noise in the steering in my 2001 Tahoe. I took it in in 2004 to be looked at by the dealership, only to be told they could not duplicate the problem. My husband, at the time, was far too timid to speak up to them. They kept making me feel like I was just another stupid woman who doesn't know anything. I finally stormed down there and spoke to the Service Manager (who had recently taken over for the last moron). He said he WAS familiar with the noise issues that the Tahoe was having, and all they did was tighten the lower crossmember to the lower control arms and did a front suspension replace. Has been just fine up until recently. Since Chevy keeps stating that they are aware of this issue, but that it poses no safety threat. I have to take it in for a tune-up anyway, so I plan to have them take another look at the crossmember to make sure that it doesn't need tightening again. We shall see.
  • I have an '01 Tahoe. It is governed at approx. 98 - 100 mph. I learned this the hard way, and lost that race. Not sure about the '02 limit, but I would imagine it would not be much different.

    Hope this helps. You should be able to find something in writing, somewhere
    on-line, that backs this up.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    You may have lost the race but not your life. There's a reason it's limited to ~100 mph.
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