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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 08/30/2009
    The knocking noise that I experienced seemed to go away when I started using the A/C only. It occurred most often when the heater was running. I haven't got a complete diagnosis of the problem yet.
  • Doc,
    Check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the right side and make sure they are still working. If you still need to pull the dash apart to replace the switch, it does pry loose relatively easy with a flat screw driver, just be careful. All the dash switches are in unplugable panels. Where does it come apart? Right around the front edge of the dash cover is a seam. Try you hands at first pulling on it and if it pops loose then you know you are on the right track. Just take your time and be careful. Make sure you can get the replacement switch first from an auto parts place. :(
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    If the fuse is blown would the fan blower work at all? I have some power to the switch because I have three of the six speeds. The top three fan speeds seem to work ok, just the three lower speeds are what is not working. Doc.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As I said before you need to check the resistor bank (Blower Control Module) that is in the air plenum, at the output of the squirrel cage exhaust.

    The blower motor is a dc motor, and you adjust speed of a dc motor by putting a resistance in series with the motor to drop voltage. That gets hot when using, which is why it's put in the duct work to keep cooled.

    This is pretty common across most all vehicles, which have some sort of resistor bank or control module, This is what goes bad 99% of the time, not the switch.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    doc15,

    kiawah speaks facts. I personally had the same problem with a Pontiac Grand AM. I lost lowest 3 speeds.

    Resistors are mounted in the side of the duct work at the blower to cool them down and the resistors for the lowest fan speed always burn first as they get least amount cooling with lowest fan speeds, of course, and because the voltage drop, i.e. resistor heating is the biggest on them.

    Arrie
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info guys, I will be checking that out tomorrow.
  • where is this sensor? My 1995 Tahoe recetly started running a bit rough when idling. It has about 190000 miles on all the original equipment and I dont feel like dumping a bunch of money into it.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Unless you do this on a regular basis, I would suggest running two bottles of Techron thru it.
  • I have the same problem with my 2002 Tahoe and I don't think it's the fuel pump, could be electrical but don't know where. I have taken it to numerous places and paid countless dollars for them to not diagnose anything. It's frustrating no one can find my problem. Did you get anything figured out?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Smiley, you are replying to a post that is 3 years old.

    What kind of places have you been taking it to? You need to find a competent service dept.
  • dlaceydlacey Posts: 2
    This may sound like i'm being a funny, but you didn't say if you checked the belts. It sounds simple but it took me 15 minutes to figure my same problem out. A missing belt woiuld most certainly make it very difficult to steer.
  • WHEN I FIRST START THE TRUCK AND DRIVE IT HAS NO PROBLEMS THEN WHEN I TURN THE ENGINE OFF THEN RETURN TO THE TRUCK AND GO AGAIN THE ENGINES SOUNDS LIKE IT IS MISSING AT TIMES AND IT DIES BUT RESTARTS AND SOMEITMES CLEARS UP AND RUNS FINE AND SOMETIMES IT JUST CONTINUES TO DIE. JUST RECENTLY WHEN IT DIED AND THE ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER IT JUST CLICKED. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS IT FINALLY TURNED OVER AND STARTED. A COMPUTER CKECK WAS DONE BEFORE IT STARTED ACTING LIKE THE STARTER WAS GOING OUT AND IT SHOWED THAT THE EGR VALVE WAS NOT RIGHT. I TOOK THE EGR VALVE OFF AND THERE WAS NOT ANY CARBON BUILD UP ON IT AND IT SEEMED TO BE WORKING OKAY AND NOT STICKING. I PUT A NEW GASKET ON AND IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING. TONIGHT I STARTED IT AND DROVE IT AND IT DID FINE. I WOULD KILL THE ENGINE AND IT WOULD RESTART FINE. I FINALLY JUST LEFT THE ENGINE RUNNING UNTIL THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING AT NORMAL TEMP FOR A WHILE AND THEN KILLED IT. WHEN I TRIED TO START IT IT JUST CLICKED. I DON'T KNOW VERY MUCH ABOUT DIESEL ENGINES EXCEPT EVERYTHING'S SO EXPENSIVE. IF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM MAY BE PLEASE LET ME KNOW . . . THANKS!
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Will make it easier for someone to possibly help if you tell us the vehicle, model, year, engine, etc.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    Plus, posts in ALL CAPS are hard to read so most people skip over those posts.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • It's a 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with a 6.5 Turbo Diesel . . .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like your starter could be bad. Works okay when it is cold, when it heats up it fails.

    This is assuming of course, that your battery connections are clean without any corrosion, as that adds resistance.
  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    Over the last month my 99 5.7 4WD Tahoe has been giving me problems accelerating when I give it a heavy foot. When I hit the gas down it loses acceleration almost like it's being starved of air or gas. When I hit the gas the engines just bogs down, begins to hesitate, and will not accelerate. kinda like when you have a dirty fuel filter
  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    I have already cleaned the mass air flow sensor, air temp sensor
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check your fuel pressure. Could be a failing fuel pump.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    or clogged fuel filter, from a bad load of gas
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