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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    I unplugged my mass air flow sensor and the truck was a new truck, ran scary fast and had so much power like it was a new truck. Is it safe to run the truck with the sensor unplugged untill i get a new one installed?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I doubt it. It will set a DTC and probably go into a fixed fuel/air map that is rich to prevent engine damage. Probably why you're seeing/feeling increased power but have you checked mpg?
  • I just noticed significant drips on the garage floor coming out of the front differential....couldn't pinpoint where. Am I in for a big bill? Should I go to a regular mechanic or a transmission place?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Depends. If the drip is in the front case (the side with the ten bolts) that's pretty simple. If the leak is on the driveshaft side (shaft from the transfer case) , that could require a bit more skill. That would be a pinion seal and it requires about 1.3 hours labor. If it's leaking from either left or right axle seals ( axles going to either front wheel), that's more complicated about 3 hours for one side and maybe 4 hours total for both sides. A good regular mechanic should be able to deal with these but if it were a pinion seal I might go to a transmission shop as it requires precise torqueing.

    MODERATOR

  • My left from wheel is making a sound like I have hug mudding tires on, my husband removed the left front tire in hopes to grease and pack the bering but discovered he couldn't get to them. If you know what type of berings these are please let use know do we need to replace the whole thing or is there a way to do it from home to save the money and not take to dealer. If you have done this job from home and can tell us how please let me know. Thank you and happy holidays.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    if the bearing noise is that loud I'm afraid it's beyond the point of packing with grease. I mean, that might get you by for a little bit but the damage is done. Bad bearings can, in extreme cases, cause a lot of other problems as well.

    Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement

    Removal Procedure

    Notice: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
    2. Remove the tire and wheel.
    3. Remove the rotor.
    4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
    5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts. (15 series)
    6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts , the 25/35 series.
    7. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
    8. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
    9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
    10. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
    11. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:

    o Nicks
    o Cuts
    o Dry or brittle
    o Compression set

    Installation Procedure

    1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
    2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
    3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
    6. Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
    7. Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series. Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
    8. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
    9. Install the rotor.
    10. Install the tire and wheel.
    11. Lower the vehicle.

    If you need diagrams, check w/ your local public library or get a workshop manual at Autozone or Kragen.

    MODERATOR

  • my 2002 runs rough, it bucks and wants to stall. The voltage gage bounce all over. check engin light say lean left bank lean right bank. it is almost lie it has a vacume leak. do you think it could be intake manifold?

    roadwork
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check fuel pressure. Could be a fuel pump going Tango Uniform.
  • I just spent about 4 hours reading all of the posts... this is a GREAT place to be!
    Ok, bought my '96 Tahoe LT in April, with 150K miles on it, of which 10K are mine. It has a full tow package on it and I first made use of it with a 5x8 U-Haul trailer this past weekend. About half way into the 700 mile trip, I was entering the Trans-Canada from a ramp and, while accelerating, at about 45-50mph, there was a "zzzzzz" sound, kinda like a power steering pump, but from the tranny area. I was in OD, shifted to D, same noise with power on, it stopped when I released the gas, but no noise at all in 3rd. Everything still worked fine, passing gear, etc., no sign of slipping and the noise quit at hwy speeds.
    When I stopped an hour later, for fuel, checked the oil levels, all ok, then put it through the gears. Noise in forward & reverse, with brakes on and slight gas pedal, but it did not last. I finished the trip with no further noise, and no drop in performance and no obvious slippage.
    Without the trailer, and in our new snow, I've been putting it through the gears a little more aggressive, but everything seems ok.
    I'm doing another 300 mile trip with aging Mom & Dad at Christmas and don't want any problems... any ideas?? :confuse:
    Tranny oil is ok and, red, not burnt. Thanks
    Don
  • Get under the hood and pull apart, clean and "white-grease" all the electrical plugs and connections you can find... could be some wires giving mixed, (corroded, loose) signals.
    A smoke-test, for the vacuum will show all leaks, 20$-40$, but worth the bother, even if that's not the "real" problem... could be a combination of things, vacuum is a good thing to have!
    Fuel too,
    Might be a bad plug, injector, wire... battery connection= low, irregular voltage leading to computer confusion.
    But the smoke test will tell a lot, and eliminate that question! :)
    What conditions are you driving in?
  • rolexrolex Posts: 1
    When I do the scheduled maintenance to my TAHOE (oil change), what do I have to do o reset the "OIL LIFE %" message on the dash screen?? Do I have to make some kind of rest or does it recognize oil was changed???
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    well read the manual.............

    Display engine oil life on DIC, press and hold the reset button
  • I have the chance to purchase a 99 tahoe for $750. It has 135000 miles and runs. The engine runs rough but when I put my hand over the exhaust pipe it isn't a miss in the firing. The car has sat for 2 years. it blows hot air, but when I checked the antifreeze it was half full. This is a corporate vehicle so it has been maintained. I did drive it and it drives with the roughness and gets up to 65 easily. I have read about many intake gaskets, fuel problems, etc. and wanted someone elses point of vew on the . the truck is in great shape and has all the bells and whistles. it is an 8 cylinder, 2 wheel drive LS. Thanks in advance for any comments.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Well you could have it scanned for trouble codes, and also do a cooling system pressure test to see where the coolant went---you'll have to find that leak regardless.

    MODERATOR

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    If it's a LS, it can't have all of the bells and whistles as that was the base model and some options available on the LT and Z71 weren't available on the LS. That being said, if you like it and the price is right, then make it yours. You can check Edmunds, Kelley Blue Book, and NADA to see what it's worth w/ the options it has. Good luck.
  • my tahoe is making a rattling noise by the front wheel on the passenger side. It is not constant. I also hear a humming noise when i am driving it. I checked the oil and it seems to be fine. Any suggestions on what the problem could be?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    bad cv joint, loose lugnuts
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Is this a very light rattle? If so, I'd check the retaining springs or clips for your front brake pads.

    MODERATOR

  • I have a 2000 chevy tahoe, that i've had for 2 years, it has a little over 15000 miles on it and we've never had any problems except for the battery dying, when we were a ways from home, the car started acting like it was outta gas, and after we pulled over we couldn't get it to stay running. dropped the tank and cleaned it out(had alot of sediment) replaced the fuel filter twice,(both of which needed cleaned after we tried to start) changed the fuel pump relay.The fuel pump itself will prime when the key is turned but it will never stay running, keeps trying but won't stay running more then a minute, and then our battery is usually dead and needs re charged.
    :confuse: :sick:
  • Where do you live?
    First off, I've changed 2 alternators in the past 3 years in my '96... might be the cause of the dead battery. Otherwise, check for a light staying on, ie glove-box, under the hood...?
    You don't say if you changed the fuel pump, (low pressure) but I'd be looking for a gas line leak, sucking air, somewhere. Try bleeding the gas line at the engine, there should be what looks like a tire valve, if not, loosen the line...might be an air bubble, or dirt, jammed up in there...
    If you're where the temperature goes between freezing and not, and do a few miles before it acts up, look for a vacuum leak to the breather... the breather warm-air valve, from the exhaust manifold don't work, causing intake gas to freeze, reducing gas flow. Usually, the valve is ok, it's the supply line that's leaking... find a full-time vacuum line and plug it there, to get home, or use a lot of gas-line ante-freeze!
    Keep us posted! :)
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