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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hey guys,

    On Saturday, as I was driving on the interstate, my Check Engine light came on. I couldn't think of anything that would cause this at the time. The car was acting fine, and while I'm getting close on the oil change, the Tahoe is equipped with an oil change reminder as well (which has not yet shown up), so I was assuming this was not the case.

    Fast forward to this morning, I get into the parking deck at work, and as I'm rounding the corners to climb from level to level, my car starts dragging as if I had a flat tire (though this was not the case). So I struggled to actually make the turns all the way up, my rear tires are squealing the whole way and I finally get it into a parking space.

    I hop out, take a look around, no flat tire or visible impedance in the axles or anything, so I decide to give it another drive to see what happens. As I pull out of the spot, there is a loud POP underneath the vehicle. It sounded as if something was stuck somewhere and was jarred loose. Anyways, the steering loosens up, everything's back to normal....AND my check engine light goes off.

    Has anybody else seen this happen before? Any experts out there have any ideas as to what it could be attributable to? I realize I should probably have the diagnostics run on it, but I'm also trying to avoid unnecessary expenditures these days.

    Any intel would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Kevin
    Atlanta, GA
  • I just took my 2007 GMC Yukon XL to the dealership today for a clicking sound that happens once in a while. They said it was the camshaft and lifter and if fixed would run around $4000 or replace the engine for $6000. What did you end up doing? Mine has 70,000 miles and is out of warranty.
  • dmntddmntd Posts: 20
    I have a 2005 Tahoe I bought used in 2010 from a local auto dealer. From day one I noticed a rattle like noise from the front end. This noise seems to only happen when the road is uneven or has bumps. It sounds like metal knocking on metal. I have had a complete service from a Chevy dealer and they noted nothing wrong or out of place. This rattle is constant when driving on rough roads no matter if I am driving straight or making turns. I looked through the forums but could not find anyone who has the same issue. If any one knows what this is please help. The dealer was no help and a local repair shops can hear it but dont know what it is cause nothing is loose when they look under the car. Also my other issue is my fuel gauge shows inaccurate fuel levels. I can fill my car up and then it read empty with warning light and sound. After a few minutes it will read correctly. At other times it will read I have more fuel than I have or when driving just drops to empty. Anyone know whats up with this?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I believe the camshaft/engine is part of the 100K Powertrain warranty.
  • Dmntd,

    I’m sorry to hear about this rattling concern you’ve described and that the visit you made to the Chevrolet Dealership wasn’t successful in working towards a resolution. If we can follow up with the dealership for you and further investigate, please email us with your name, user name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Thank you,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • Your front rattle is most likely the upper control arm bushings. Every thing will appear to be "tight" but it really isn't. You may be able to see the wear by opening the hood and looking where the control arm attaches to the frame. The only "real" way to tell is to relieve the spring presser and if they are "bad", it will rattle like a bolt in a tin can. I would suggest that you take it to a good Mechanic you trust and ask him to check the control arm bushings, if he is any good, he should find it right away. Good luck.
    As for your fuel gauge issue, it could be the sending unit located in the gas tank or the gauge itself, I've seen both. Tell you Mechanic about it and he should be able to do some tests to isolate the problem. Hope this helps and
    "Good Luck"!!
  • I ran a 2001 Yukon 421,000 miles and never had any issues like this but there are two potential culprits form my experience. First is electrical. Remember that each cylinder on that engine has an individual coil providing the voltage to each plug. Unlike the old systems with a common coil. If you have a bad coil on one cylinder this can cause this. I would pull each plug to see if one or more are noticeable different or possibly sooted up more than the others. Another possible cause is that GM had issues on some cams that caused them to prematurely wear the lobes off. If the valves are not oppening correctly to let in the gas or let out exhaust you will have performance issues and possibly what feel like a cylinder miss.

    Hope this helps.
  • I normally do not do a lot of complaining about cars but am frustrated enough to let you know what I think of the new Chevy and Gm designed Tahoe, Yukon line of trucks. I have been a loyal GM customer for a long time and last year traded in my 2001 Yukon with 421,000 miles on it after encountering a light post in a parking lot requiring repair. Thought it was telling me it was tired. Actually it was bomb proof except for their poorly designed fuel pump issues.

    On to my 2007 Tahoe purchased with 43,000 miles, a virtual baby to me. I do approximately 45-55k miles per year and almost all is highway driving. Chevy replaced one front spindle bearing around 75k miles under warranty then a second spindle bearing the other side around 85,000 miles. All at their cost great for me right? Not so since these two components actually cupped the insides of all of my tires which were brand new so essentially wore them out to an unsafe situation prematurely. Pretty expensive when you look at 18" tires at close to 200.00 each. I just mounted 4 Blizzack snows before we were hit with that freak snow storm 4 weeks ago and last week saw the left front tire inside area almost worn smooth. Again almost 200.00 per tire. Now at 101,000 miles I'm told the upper ball joints are getting lose and need another 800.00 worth of repairs. Chevy this is disappointing and reflects on their light weight front end and their outsourcing to the lowest priced parts. This truck has had more repairs to the front end in 100,000 miles that my older Yukon has in 400,000. By the way it was again our of alignment another testimony to poor engineering and cheap parts. My 01 Yukon had 3 or 4 alignments in the 400,000 miles and not once did it cup tires or have any issues in the front end. I have to say Government Motors is making the choice of my next truck easy and it will not be built by them. This is not a truck any longer and if you plan on doing any heavy duty driving or have poor roads buyer beware it will cost you a fortune to own. For a vehicle that costs $55,000 new this should be an embarrassment to GM but knowing them it is not. At least we are not hearing claims "Like a Rock" on their commercials any longer. Think that in itself is a message.

    Totally disappointed!
  • I have 451,000 on my 2001 Yukon. I've been pretty happy with it, except for the poor alignment wear on the front end. It seems to wear through pitman arms pretty quickly. Thus I get a lot of wear and tear on the front tires. Most of my driving is highway driving as well. It looks like they still haven't fixed the alignment issues with the newer vehicles either. Thanks for the info.
  • cjolicoeurcjolicoeur Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    :confuse: So, I have the mac daddy LTZ?...Over $45k new...Big Fat Hairy Deal!!!! You would think spending that kind of money on a vehicle would mean some sort of quality assurance.....Am I just expecting too much?

    Got in Tahoe to go to work this morning, it was shaking like crazy, stabilitrak warning, traction warning, and the engine light blinking like crazy! Needless to say, I went straight to the dealership. First time it ever happened - no other warning signs at all.

    Get the call from the service writer later that afternoon that the CAM Shaft & Lifters are bad and need replaced..something about a bad lobe..... and .....NOTHING IS COVERED!!!! Surprise, my 5yr/100k mile warranty is 4 months expired! I get a quote of approx $3500 to fix, give or take a few bucks. So my husband goes over to the dealership to figure out what's going on...finally gets it out of the service dept. that WE (me & hubby) didn't do anything wrong, and they don't know why it happened - but did say that a 2007 Tahoe with only 90k miles shouldn't have that problem.

    So then I go surfing the net.....seems like this particular problem is an issue with every vehicle that has the engine that I have...5.3L. Then I talked to a few people who have Tahoes, Avalanche, etc...with my same engine...and they had the SAME problem. Some vehicles that were newer with less mileage than mine. My question would be.....WHY IS THERE NO RECALL ON THIS?

    I'll even go one further, a friend of mine that had the same problem talked to someone who is "in the know" - and I learned this is a common problem - happens all of the time - and sometimes you "get lucky" and it happens when the warranty is still in force. In the last 5 years, My husband and I have purchased 3 GM vehicles, 1 for me, and one for each son. Also, my husband owns a company that has fleet trucks, also GM. Is General Motors that unconcerned that they just let this fly? I don't know about anyone else, but I am not rich, I am struggling right now just like everyone else and we work hard for our money. To have this "common problem" come up 3 days after xmas - and just a few days prior to property taxes and insurances due - and then learn it'll be about $3500 to fix - it ridiculous. If this is a common problem - and it is known to be a problem by the dealerships and mechanic shops - then why do I have to pay for it - shouldn't GM take care of this? Tahoe is sitting at the dealership, and it is not driveable.

    I intend on trying to see what can be done, but from the other posts I've read, it doesn't appear as if General Motors cares about keeping loyal customers such as myself. Hopefully I will be able to enlist the help of the service manager, but if not, then I'll call GM and see if I can talk to someone.

    ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS PROBLEM???? How do we get a recall going?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I assume you mean idler arm, not pitman arm since there's really not much to wear out on a pitman arm.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Really can't expect too much by a company run by Barry. :mad:
  • I was told that it needed both, but you could be right. It does have 452,000 miles on it.
  • The pitman arm went out on mine... throws the whole front end out of whack. The rest was, and still is good.
    From reading these posts, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else lets go!
  • :mad: This is hilarious I could have written the exact same post..... except mine is estimated to cost 3900 but could go up to 7000 if they find out once they get into it that it is more them one lifter. Mine is out of warranty by 1700 miles and it is a 2009 Tahoe Hybrid. Everything else pretty much exact same scenario... it is sitting at the dealer all in pieces and either i pay 3900 to get them started or they pack the pieces in a box and i am on my own with of course a 900 dollar bill for them pulling it apart just to find out what was wrong with it and they are not even 100% sure they got it right at this point. Got the same answer of they dont know how it happened and it shouldnt have happened but sorry nothing we can do to help.
  • dmntddmntd Posts: 20
    Well never found out what the rattle was from the front end I had to rebuilt my transmission at 92k miles and when I got my car back from the shop the rattle noise was gone. They shop didnt even remove my tires or adjust anything cause when they finished the rebuild they where gonna check and report on the noise from the front end and it was gone. So no one know's what was up with that but its quiet as it should be now.
  • stretchbx187stretchbx187 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I had three Tahoe's 2001 lt 2003 Z71 both the 2001 and 2003 were very good trucks very few minor problems thumbs up for those models I also have an 07 Tahoe Z71 52,000 dollar truck and had all sought of problems from electrical harness, engine coils, bearings, fuel pumps and replaced the computer thought I could save money by not getting the warranty since chevy made such a strong truck right wrong about 10,000 in repairs already brought the truck with 70,000 thousand miles i know it had high miles but come on something gotta give thought i brought a lemon then i was surfing the web and found this site so disappointed in chevy my car has been sitting since the summer now has 92,000 miles and thinking about selling it i should have stuck with my 2003 Z71
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Were your previous two Tahoes new when you got them?
  • Just went through a huge snowstorm in seattle to find that my 4 wheel drive isn't working. I can hear the transfer case engage when I put it in 4 Lo but the front wheels don't turn. Have confirmed that all the vacuum lines are in good shape. What should I check next??

    Thanks for your comments
  • chel5chel5 Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Tahoe that seems to hate cold weather. As soon as the temperature drops it starts running poorly. It's not always the same, some times it revs, other times it cuts out and wants to die. If I allow it to run until the temp gauge is straight up, shut it off, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and then restart it will run fine.
    Two winters in a row I replaced the Mass Airflow sensor, (seemed to help but not completely) the third winter it threw the same code, my mechanic didn't think it could be that so he started other things, plugs and wires, throttle position sensor, throttle body, and THEN a MAF sensor.
    By this time weather was warming up and it was running better, however, then I started getting "Reduced Engine Power" messages. My mechanic gave up so I took it to another mechanic. After 6 weeks he replaced the throttle body AGAIN, ran great until the weather got cold. Now I am back to the reving and cutting out. (The reving is a LOT of fun when road are bad) And I am starting to get the Reduced Engine Power messages again. The diagnostic machine says "lean on bank one (or two)". Once the temp gets up into the 50's for a couple of days the Check Engine light goes off and it runs great until the temp drops again.
    I LOVE this vehicle except for this issue and I'm sure it is all related but we just can't find the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
    Oh, he checked the pressure on my fuel pump and said it was 52 off, 40 something when cranking. Is that low? I have never heard of a fuel pump going bad that way, I thought they just "quit".
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