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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • edwin10edwin10 Posts: 32
    What you are hearing is freon in the a/c system. When
    engine is at or near idle, you can hear the freon pulsate
    in the evaporator under the dash. It takes a cold
    evaporator, and some other conditions to get this.

    It means nothing, and is not a problem, you just hear it
    when it is quiet in the car. Turn the fan up one speed
    and you most likely will not hear it.
  • firepat3firepat3 Posts: 1
    Sweet smell sim. to antifreeze or syrup coming from the air vents when heat and air cond on.
  • ellemayellemay Posts: 1
    hoping someone out there knows what's up with this...
    About a week ago - all of my brake lights went out. Changed the fuse - nothing...Changed the brake light switch - nothing...changed the bulbs - JUST IN CASE - nothing...Now, today the truck is STUCK in park. I don't know if the 2 are related...any ideas? :cry: Had to have it towed and they can't look at it until tomorrow. :sick:
  • mbubarmbubar Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue with pulsating brakes on my 99 Tahoe. I also have really bad vibration when I am on a down grade out of the mountains. I recently replaced the rotors for the third time. Can anyone offer any suggestions? :confuse:
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    The problem with pre 2000/2001 models was the inadequate brake designs. You are experiencing hot spots in either the front rotor or rear drums. They are either warped (rotors) or out-of-round (drums).

    I had a '96 Suburban that would start doing this about 5k after compete overhauls. I would grind the rotors until they were too thin, then buy new ones. The rears could take 2 grinds, and they had to be tossed too.

    I started to manually downshift on hills to try and save the brakes. (I live in the Lake Tahoe - mountains).

    The newer 2000/2001 through 2006 were better, but I still had to turn all 4 rotors after 30k.

    I now have an '07, and the rotors are now big and touchy. It's almost car-like how sensitive they are to pedal pressure. I'm glad they (GM) are taking the brakes seriously now.

    Dave
  • mbubarmbubar Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I guess I will check the rear drums since I just changed the rotors.
  • dmg2dmg2 Posts: 1
    We just got our 2004 Tahoe serviced (30K service) and there is an odd smell coming from the exhaust - smells like natural gas which I know is impossible! Took it back to the dealer and they tightened the exhaust with no luck.

    Any one ever hear of this? The Chevy service manager is stumpted.

    Thanks in advance
  • jk06jk06 Posts: 7
    I read in car lemons that GM had a problem with 1999's and later years. In an article it said to remove ABS and clean sensor with a rag and clean sensor mounting surface. I just did that and I turned rotors and replace calipers. I will let you know if it worked. Some one said if the back brakes were not working properly that the front brakes would do this, I'm betting dirty sensors are the problem,mine were really dirty.
  • I am having a problem with my fuel pump not turning off after you crank it. I just had a new one put in. This one keeps running and won't turn off after you crank it up. It keeps flooding out and then won't crank at all. Has anyone had this problem or knows what to do about it. Please help.
  • imhwileyimhwiley Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe and my oil gauge went crazy today. It is not reading low but way high and when I turn my Tahoe off the meter did not go down. Does anyone know how to fix this problem.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Sounds to me like you have a problem with the sending unit for the oil guage....or possibly a short circuit in the wiring to the sending unit or guage or even a bad guage. Should be an easy problem to fix.
  • rrz71rrz71 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Z71 Tahoe with 10K miles on it and in the last few weeks I have been experiencing drastic fluctuations on the fuel gauge. I took it to the Dealer and they replaced what they called a fuel card in the tank. The next day I returned to the Dealer with the same problem but now they tell me the technician can't duplicate the problem so they can't fix it. Has anyone else experienced the same problem and if so has your Dealer been able to correct it :confuse: ?
  • 99 tahoe has too much brake pedal travel before starts braking.have changed all brakes and master cyl.have bled brakes in proper sequence.any ideas? could it be in the abs hyd unit?
  • tmm1tmm1 Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a leftover 05 Tahoe, grey metallic in color, i just noticed when in sunlight or at night when a street light gleams on the truck, the passenger side door and the hood of the the truck have what looks like from a distance swirls, and same in direct sunlight, but only in those two parts of the truck, with a closer look, there are not scratches, the swirls look to be underneath as if it were a 3-d effect. I asked dealer about this and he said use some good wax, but to now avail. Anyone have any suggestions.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Take your Tahoe to a really good auto paint shop....one that specializes in hiqh-quality custom paint work. If they can't fix it nobody can. These guys know all the tricks.
  • tmm1tmm1 Posts: 3
    Thanks Rockman59, ill try that, im just hoping there were no behind the scene deals with the truck, other than the paint in those two places, the rest seems to be ok. thanks again.
  • tmm1tmm1 Posts: 3
    Hi, I had another question, how can someone tell if there are really Bose system, the front speakers on either side of front passanger and driver side speaker covers say Bose, but the rear ones do not? This is a 2005 Tahoe, just wondering if anyone else has the same setup with front covers having Bose logo, but rear covers do not. thanks again for your time.
  • mhansenmhansen Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Tahoe that appears to have this same problem. Power Steering is tightened and I now have loss of fluid. Does this recall only apply to the 2003 model? Is replacement of the Valve O-ring a major repair?
  • bamspeckbamspeck Posts: 3
    Umm. Yeah!
    Buckle up!!!
    :sick:
  • bamspeckbamspeck Posts: 3
    Yes.
    I have a 2001 that does that from time to time. It's really no big deal. It's in the valve train which is in the top part of the engine. After the oil pump gets enough oil pumped up to the top of the engine the ticking stops. As your engine sits the oil drains back down to the oil pan, so when you get back in after a while you'll have the ticking until the oil is pumped back up there again. Don't worry about it because the ticking sound is two pieces of metal hitting each other and not grinding on each other.
  • bamspeckbamspeck Posts: 3
    I've got a 2001 Tahoe.
    When it's warm the idle RPM's go down to 500 RPM or less, sometimes stalling the engine. I've got a Haynes manual for the vehicle and it's of very little help. It does say the the TPS (throtle position sensor) on all 2001 models is actualy 2 sensors in one, but it doesn't say what the other sensor is. I've assumed that it also contains the Idle Air Control Valve but it does not give any discription of the wiring or wire coloring so I can trouble shoot it. Does anyone else have this problem and if so how did you fix it?
  • kwk2kwk2 Posts: 1
    Would anyone have any idea what would cause my front end to shutter or shake when turning the wheels at slow speeds in 4 wheel auto mode. It appears ok when 2wheel drive is selected. I have 73K miles on this 2000 Suburban,1500 5.3 engine. I've check the fluid level and that's ok,could it be a wheel sensor? Any guesses would be appreciated.

    thanks, kwk2
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    Yes. When in 4wd mode, the front drive wheels are locked together. Turning requires that the rpm of the inside wheel rotate a bit slower than the outer wheel, right? So what you feel is the wheel skidding (in short bursts) as you make turns.

    This is normal, because in order for 4wd to be usefull on loose surfaces (ice, sand, mud), both wheels must get power. The front differential has a tight "posi-traction" setting.

    On more sophisticated systems, like AWD or "Full Time 4wd", the front differential is designed to provide "balance" of the power applied to the fronts, and lessen or eliminate the tight feel.

    I don't believe the 2000 subby has Full Time, so you should only engage during snow or off-roading.

    Dave
  • despinodespino Posts: 1
    I too am having some problems with my 2004 Tahoe doing the same type of thing. However, the indicator gauge for the oil and the battery are "pegged out" past the maximum level actually all the way to the right as possible - plus the A/C, CD and DVD players are all hot to the touch. I removed two CDs that I thought were going to melt in my hand they were so hot! There is no loss of performance, and everything is running fine - just concerned that there is an electrical problem. I had OnStar run a diagnostic on the vehicle and it showed no problems. Can anyone tell me what the problem is? I hate to take it to the dealership as they always keep it for days!
  • cjk3cjk3 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure this one out. I have the same problem with a 2001?
  • evilzevilz Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    Anyone run across the Tahoes burning through rear brakes much faster than the fronts? I was always under the assumption that the front brakes accounted for about 60-70% of the braking, but I am on my second set of rear pads which the dealer tells me are getting low after about 16000 miles and the fronts still look like brand new at 76000 miles.

    Thanks.
  • jevensonjevenson Posts: 1
    My Tahoe 98 is blowing fuses. It blows the turn signal fuse then the brake lights blow. It has been to the dealer and they changed the fuses and charged me $250.00 the next day the problem was back. There are a lot of strange things going on. The left turn signal will work, the right will not. The gas gauge indicator is shaking. When I turn on the left turn signal it will work but when I turn on the right turn signal all the lights flash bight and dim in time to the flasher. I have replaced the turn signal fuse with a 30 amp and it does not blow but the other things keep happening. The turn signals seem to work OK after I replace the fuse but when I turn on the headlights the fuses start blowing. The truck is at the dealer right now for the second time and they tell me they can't find the problem. I understand that this truck has two grounds both on the engine. I am going to ask that the dealer clean the connections today. I don't know what else to do I am going crazy. Can anyone out there offer me a fix? I have asked the dealer to ask the zone office for help but I don't know if this will happen. Please help. .
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I have the same problem on my 2004. I'm supposed to bring it on Friday, but I hate tying it up for this type of problem. Did you even find out what it was?

    Also, before my rear controls quit we had trouble making them work properly. We never figured out how the back seat could listen to a Cd while front listened to radio. We finally found it useless since we had to listen to the same thing and stopped using it, so we really don't know how long it has been broken. Do you know how to work it?
  • triguy7triguy7 Posts: 1
    Bought two years ago, new from dealer in mobile, al. have had in shop four separate times. left her in upstate alabama (tuscaloosa,al) had to be towed to dealer three times to get it fixed....still jerks/stalls. Contacted chevy customer service to get relief for a $1,000 bill on a fuel pump...no luck! am I wrong or should a 46k vehicle be unreliable? i have bought three new chevy's....no more. my 95 tahoe...still going strong. my 2001 suburban still going strong. my 2003 tahoe z71...pos. chevy's quality has gone way down. i am glad that they are suffering in sales. now 4 wheel light is coming on - then off... engine light comes on - then off. last week in dealership and they suggest a $850 part that might fix it... unbeliveable.
  • tsuami1tsuami1 Posts: 5
    I have a 1997 4x4 w/ a 5.7L vortec. about 150k miles total. Since the day I bought it at 140k miles or so it was running a little funky.
    First the heat problem. The temp gage reads generally 190-210 degrees, occasionally jumping to a little over the 210 degree mark. I suspected this was a little high, then confirmed it when riding in my friends 1996 Tahoe w/ the same vortec engine and it ran closer to 170 degrees.
    I replaced the radiator and thermostat. No change. HELP!
    Now to the funky misfire. It has run this way since purchase, and at around 145k miles I got the dreaded PO420 code. I replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and the code remained, also no running change. I then replaced the bank1 cat and that solved the code problem- but it still seems to run the same way! Maybe I need to do the other cat as suggested by the muffler shop, but I really dont want to since it costs $300+ to do the job- for each cat!
    SO I continue to drive w/ this misfire- and a not so healthy 10 MPG around town and 15 MPG hiway. I've also replaced plugs/cap/rotor/wires, flushed the injectors, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the EGR valve. Nothing seems to help.
    The misfire isnt real bad, just a low rumble/shake in the engine that a sensitive driver like me can feel. I still have great acceleration power and she never has a starting problem. Its just the same ongoing annoying misfire coupled with what I think is really poor MPG- or is this normal MPG for a '97 w/ 150k miles?

    also forgot to note: my mechanic found it very odd that after replacing the radiator and thermostat, the lower intake radiator hose stays real cool no matter what, while the upper hose stays hot. Is this due to poor water ciculation from a bad water pump?
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