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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • starultrastarultra Posts: 15
    I just purchase a new 2007 tahoe, I would like to know if anyone has had any problem with there battery. WhenIgot off work my battery wasdead to the world. When I call onstar to send someone out to jump my tahoe, the gentleman told me has has two other customers with the same problem. When I took it to the dealership today they told me that a few 2007 tahoe had some problem with the wiring that was draining the battery.

    Shan
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Its just the same ongoing annoying misfire coupled with what I think is really poor MPG- or is this normal MPG for a '97 w/ 150k miles?
    ____________________________________________________________
    I think your mpg is much lower than it should be. Probably due to the misfire. A good tech should be able to pinpoint the misfire problem. As far as your temp problem(?), a reading from 190 to 210 seems pretty normal. Temp guage reading differences between vehicles is simply that the guages don't always read the same from car to car. Some read hot, some read cooler. As long as your engine is not overheating you are OK.
  • dapittsdapitts Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Tahoe and am having a lot of problems with it idling low. It doesn't seem to matter if it is warm or cold, but when it is under stress - such as air conditioning on, turning and not accelerating - then it cuts off. It's getting dangerous. Any luck with yours?
  • taterboytaterboy Posts: 1
    A problem developed with my steering yesterday. When I turn left the tire feels like its binding or dragging. Anyone had a similar problem that can tell me what might be wrong?
  • starultrastarultra Posts: 15
    Has anyone had there battery gone dead? I cant believe it! this is a 2007 Tahoe I just purchase July 3, When it happen the first time the dealership change battery and change something with fuel reset? So guys but I'm a women and when it come to car and truck I'm way out there. Anyway I got off work yesterday and my battery was dead, and no I didn't leave any light on. I know there was 2 other Tahoe that had the same problem. All I can say if it happen 2 more time its a lemon! :cry:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    All I can say if it happen 2 more time its a lemon!
    ____________________________________________________________
    There's obviously an open circuit which is draining the battery. Your dealer needs to get one of their techs on this and start tracing down the circuits to see where the problem is. It can be fixed but may not be easy to find. Warranty should take care of this. Make them give you a loaner car and tell them not to call you until they have solved the problem....or give you a brand new vehicle.
  • bogssbogss Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Tahoe with 55,000 mile on it last week the service engine soon warning came on, my question is there a reset button in the vehicle, the truck runs fine i could'nt feel any trouble. I just don't want to go to the dealer and let them reset it or scan it.
  • starultrastarultra Posts: 15
    Rockman59, thank for your input, the dealer call me to say they are still working on but will probably need my car until next week. They still cant find anything wrong with it.
    Rockman59 what should I do if the car come back and it happen again? do I just trade it in for the same, or just bail out all together. This is leaving a bad taste in my mouth.

    Thanks again
    Shan
  • rsjohnrsjohn Posts: 16
    these batterys are nothing but junk. My avice is get your battery from another company. :mad:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Shan: Since you have only owned the vehicle 25 days I think you have every right to demand that either the vehicle be fixed or the dealer should put you in another similarly equipped one at no charge. You should also be looking into the lemon laws in your state in case the dealer can't or won't make things right. Keep the pressure on the dealer. Let them know that you expect them to fix the problem on your brand new vehicle. If they can't, tell them to either refund your money or put you in a new unit.
  • starultrastarultra Posts: 15
    Rockman59 I'm one step ahead of you, I have already contract a lemon lawyer yesterday he said the same thing you did. On Monday I will demand a new unit, I will let you know the out come.

    Shan :sick:
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Shan said: Rockman59 I'm one step ahead of you, I have already contract a lemon lawyer yesterday he said the same thing you did
    ___________________________________________________________
    Hmmm....maybe it's time for me to start another career...advising folks on how to handle problems with their car dealer!!!!!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I would take it to AutoZone or another car part dealer. They will scan it for free and also reset the light, but the light will come on again if the trouble that sets the light is not fixed.

    Perhaps it is a simple fix and not too costly. Could be just one O2 sensor. They cost nearly $100 a piece (you probably have four of them) but are worth fixing. It could also be the EGR valve stuck open. That usually can be cleaned for a fix.

    One very simple reason for the light to come ON is the fuel tank cap not holding pressure. Fix for that would be a new cap from the parts dealer.

    Or it can be a number of other things...

    --Arrie--
  • hey there, this is a good one...I know exactly what noise you're talking about and yes it sounds exactly like the fan hitting the shroud...that noise is coming from the A/C belt tensioner hitting the transmission cooler line, and the reason the tensioner is binding up and hitting the line, is from the compressor locking up...the clutch is going out on the compressor. and this is a pretty costly repair
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    I have a 1999 Tahoe LT 4x4 and EVERY time I tow our boat the service engine soon light comes on, and I can feel it missing in the gas peddle, ESPECIALLY going up hills, the light will start flashing. I even hear a noise going on now.When I take it somewhere to get coded, it says #4 misfire. I have put new plugs, wires, fuel pump, even a distributor on it. Nothing works! It is getting worse each time we tow the boat. What in the world?? Someone please respond. On the Edmunds site, i found a jan. 2001 bulletin that reads: service engine soon light and po300 when towing, cruising uphill, or on hard acceleration NHTSA item #10010375.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    On the Edmunds site, i found a jan. 2001 bulletin that reads: service engine soon light and po300 when towing, cruising uphill, or on hard acceleration NHTSA item #10010375.
    ___________________________________________________________
    Sounds like you found the answer to your problem....
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    What is NHTSA stand for? The bulletin I found does not solve my problem, it Does NOT say how to fix it, what is causing the problem? (post #201) Does anyone have any answers?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,451
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide TSB list just has the summary info and that's usually all the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has. You'll have to see your service writer for the full text and the fixes, or buy the TSB from a site like alldata.com unless someone here happens to know the fix.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I was able to get copies of all the recall and service bulletin information that the dealers have access to through NHTSA:
    1-888-327-4236
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm
    They have a thrid party that is the custodian of all the records who will mail these items to you per email request at: tis@nhtsa.dot.gov
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I bought a used black Z71 with paint swirls. And found by trial and error the best products are from Zaino
    http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc

    Paint swirls are fine acratches in the clear coat and are most noticable in direct sun light. They are real easy to get in the paint but only special polish will reduce or eliminate them.
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Thank you for trying to help. I looked at the NHTSA website last night and to get more info on service bullitin #3081 they want $34.00 flat fee. I have not done this because if the info they send is the sentence I have already read about the summary of the bulletin, that will suck. If I could be sure that it has the solution to the problem I would gladly pay the fee. I called NHTSA and they told me to call CHEVROLET, I did that and after tons of questions and an hour on the phone they told me to take the tahoe and our fishing boat to the dealership and get one of the technitions to ride with us to show him what it is doing. (it only does it when towing, mainly).They charge so much at the dealership, Ive already put so much $ in this mystery
    I want to trade it in on a Toyota truck!
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    Very strange problem you have if it only shows up when towing a boat! But then in this post you say "it only does it when towing, mainly". That "mainly" kind of says it is not just towing problem. It might show up worse when more power is required from the engine but you might have it going on at all times.

    Does your engine have the aluminum heat shields around spark plugs? My 04' Tahoe does (or did).

    I had a problem with misfire severe enough to put service engine light on when the spark plug boot was not installed correctly on the plug (not deep enough) and the spark shorted through the heat shield to engine ground. Shields in my Tahoe have a grounding springs in the end of them that prevents spark from forming between shield and engine.

    When I removed the grounding springs I could see faint sparks between several heat shields and cylinder head.

    With grounding springs removed I tried two sets of GM spark plug wires and two third party sets to try eliminate the spark between heat shield and engine ground with no luck. It seems that regardless of the spark plug wire set some spark leaks through to the heat shields and a spark shows where the shield is close enough to engine ground.

    If you have the heat shields take them out and see if it helps. Your spark plug boots will get hotter but they will not burn away immediately. If you get help doing this then do what I did: Go purchase a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need to use heat shields.

    --Arrie--
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    I have had the tahoe start to "shudder/ vibrate" while going up hills on the interstate a few times when I am not towing. You can feel this in the gas peddle, and your body. When I let off the gas, and resume, it quits. The only time the light flashes is when Im towing. It is not a yacht either just a 18 foot fishing boat. The wires and plugs in the truck are the best and the standard for the truck. Thank you for replying to my problem.
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    What is really weird is when I get it scanned, it says #4 misfire EVERY TIME!
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    I got the service bulletins for free by emailing a request with the service bulletin numbers to tis@nhtsa.dot.gov

    It took a few weeks for them to respond with copies of several pages each for each bulletin.
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Thank you sasz71, I will try that..........

    O.K. Last night I was on the interstate and I was going about 75, I passed a motorcycle, on a hill and while on the hill, the light came on and started flashing, but I felt no vibration, or shaking. After the hill, it stopped flashing but stayed on. Now today, or soon, as before, when Im driving around on regular roads, the light will go off I bet. I hope Im not driving everyone crazy with this, thank everyone for reading these and trying to help though. I almost have the damn thing payed off ( 1 more payment) and it is acting worse and worse. A mechanic told us it may be a bad injector or stuck valve. Maybe a #4 new injector would fix it?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    Swap #4 injector with another cylinder injector to rule it out as a problem.

    I wouldn't think the injector is the problem. I don't believe that the computer in the car knows if fuel burns in a particular cylinder or not but it can know if your spark is not right. Someone correct me if I'm wrong with the above statement.

    It didn't come clear to me if you have those aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots?

    --Arrie--
  • albornalborn Posts: 7
    Yes, there are aluminum heat sheilds around spark plugs..
    Since taking the intake off is such a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] (off a chevy truck) it will be easier just to put a new injector.
    ( instead of taking intake off, swapping it, putting it back together, see if that fixes it, then if it is the #4 injector, taking intake off again, putting a new injector on

    Seems like just putting a new one on would be easier. I bet that wont fix it either though.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    alborn,

    I don't understand what you mean by it being easier to put a new injector than to swap two of them. By swapping I mean you take that #4 off with say #3 and then install #3 to #4 location and then #4 to #3 location. I don't think you need to remove intake for this. Fuel rail removal should be enough.

    But first, take that heat shield out from that #4 if you know which one it is. Taking them all out for sure rules the shield spark leakage out as a problem if you still have the problem without them. Very simple test to do and could completely fix your problem.

    --Arrie--
  • fcoxfcox Posts: 7
    I appear to be having this problem in my 2003 Burb on the driver side only (dual zone clmate controls). Any insight on the cost of this repair or is it a "do it yourselfer"? Thanks.
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