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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2000 Tahoe I bought it with 69000 Miles no visible oil leaks. 2 months later rear main seal leak,fixed, 2 months later same thing changed again. Then it all started sensor leak fixed, another sensor leak fixed, oil pan fixed, another sensor fixed, every sensor has been changed and it still leaks it only takes about 2 hours to spring a new leak it now has 91000 miles on a 5.3 liter. Has any one else had or ever heard of this or am I the one in a million. I want to sell it and buy a newer one but it's hard to sell a leaker.
  • I've got a 1997 Tahoe 5.7L and after driving a few other 1996 Tahoes w/ 5.7L engines I noticed they ran at about 170 degrees and at about 60 psi oil pressure. My 1997 runs at 195 degrees and at 40 psi oil. Whay the difference? I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city. I at least get 15 mpg or so on the highway, but the truck still runs hot at highway speeds. I've done many things too it recently too: replaced radiator/ alternator/ fuel filter/ plugs cap wires rotor/ thermostat/ oxygen sensors/ catalitic convertors/ muffler /ran fuel pressure diagnostic and it checked good. Whats going on? My plugs indicate that it runs lean. Do I have a leaking intake manifold gasket, or poss. a bad oil pump and/or water pump? Or is nothing wrong with this picture at all?
  • tsuami1 said: I also get 9-10 mpg city when other are getting 12-14 city.
    ___________________________________________________________
    Many thing can affect your mileage: quality of gas, the way you drive (quick stoplite starts, flooring the pedal to pass, etc) how fast you drive (usually the faster you go the less your mileage) state of engine tuneup, amount of air in tires, rear end gear ratios.......all these things affect mpg. Make sure you are not comparing apples to oranges when you compate your mpg with other vehicles.
  • I am having a similiar problem with my 2001 Chevy Tahoe, 60,000 miles, As the first published problem. At 2000 RPM or so a grinding noise comes from my engin compartment that seemes to be from a pump associated with the A.C. unit. When I turned off the AC unit the and drove the vehicle there was no noise. I brought to the local dealer and they have said the the compressor is trying to sieze up and the repair/replacement would be A WHOOPING $1700. becuase of my rear a/c. They said something like the lines need to flushed because of metal scrapes. What. If this is just a tension or spring issue that would save me a lot of money. Please Help A.S.A.P. I Live in San Antonio and its been very hot, until todays first rain in forever.
  • I had the same problem in my 2002 Tahoe, with the grinding/rattling sound when I turn on the ac. I took it to an independent garage/mechanic and he also said the same thing: I need new compressor cuz it's trying to seize up. He said the samething about the metal scraps, etc. The ac compressor belt finally just broke off and I have no ac.
    So I would like help with resolving this problem too.
  • Starultra

    I was wondering how you made out with the dead battery problem. I bought a Z71 Suburban back in 04 and have been having the same problem every since. The dealer says he can;t find the problem. Did you have any luck or answers?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    If your A/C compressor did not lock up yet you can try a very simple and low cost fix for saving it or at least extending the compressor's life.

    Go to an auto part store and buy a can of A/C compressor lubricant. It sounds like your compressor is running dry and that is why it is making noise and wants to seize up. You also need to have a service port hose to have lubricant added in the system.

    Procedure is very simple and could fix your problem. Compressor making noise kind of says it might be ready for change though.

    About metal scrap in the system it is very possible that you have metal shavings from the compressor in the system but there is a screen (at least in all cars that I have owned so far is) at the expansion valve. This very fine screen should catch pretty much all metal shavings that come from the compressor.

    The other thing that catches shavings is the dryer that is also located in the system before the evaporator coil. You want to change dryer and expansion valve at the same time if you need to replace your compressor.

    The quoted price of $1700 sounds way too high to me, but I'm used to work on these systems myself and don't even think about taking my vehicle for service like this. You just end up paying for something you don't need.

    Of course, if you are not a hands on person you may need to pay for it but I'm sure someone else will do it for much less than $1700.

    Compressor might cost a bit though but you can always find a rebuilt compressor from auto part store that is as good as a factory new one. Cost might be up from $300.

    --Arrie--
  • #81 of 86 Real world for Tahoe... by rspencer Sep 05, 2006 (11:37 am)
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    Interested in what Consumers Union, a.k.a., Consumer Reports found when they did a random dealer purchase and fuel economy test of a 2002 model year Tahoe, 5.3L, auto trans?

    CITY - 9 MPG

    Overall - 13 MPG

    I put this over here for u so u can see what is real world. U are getting real world for the 5.3L Tahoe. Your MPG is normal.

    I get about 14 MPG O/A.
  • To begin thanks to all those who responded to my post. They were helpful - thank you. In conclusion to finding out the problem and solution to the grinding noise at 2000 RPMS on my chevy tahoe, it did indeed come out to be the A/C compressor. The tensioner for the A/C unit may have created the problem originally, as it did not allow the A/C unit to run correctly. As a result my compressor began to grind, with failure emenant. The damage had already been done, so the compressor needed to be replaced. In addition, the tensioner needed to be replaced to prevent future problems, and the system did need a new filter (metal scraps, Orifice A and valve. The seem also was drained of fluid to ensure to particles got past the filter. The good part, well sort of, was that with the help of your comments I was able to have a working knowledge of the problem to discuss with repair shops and part suppliers. As a result, parts from the dealers repair estimate could have been bought from the same dealer at their commercial parts dept. for much less. Example was the compressor itself. Estimate cost $576.00 - Commercial Parts dept. cost $387.00. Same Part! I also called Part suppliers (Napa etc.) and their prices for new top end compressors were about $380.00. I told this to the service sales man and he just said "really". In summary, I took my car away from the dealer, went to a specialist with all my new knowledge, quoted prices for parts and discussed tensioners etc. After his inspection, he determined what I said above, the same as the dealer, but without all the bull such as "having rear A/C increases the price tremendouly". In fact having a rear A/C system only slightly changes the compressor unit. It does not involve two units. The final price $850.00. This saved me $900.00 from the dealers price.

    If I can help any one the all of you help me please let me know.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    dogbones,

    Thank you for letting us all know the end of your story, which was kind of a happy one when you was able to save a considerable amount of money.

    So many people posting here don't say a word about it. The trail of a problem just stops. Often it might mean (I hope) that this forum gave some help in fixing a problem but so many don't bother letting others know what really happened.

    Thanks to you!

    --Arrie--
  • DROVE THE TRUCK LAST NIGHT, RAN FINE...THIS MORNING I GOT IN AND THE DOME LIGHTS WERE BRIGHT, BUT AS SOON AS I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION I STARTED HEARING DIFFERENT CLICKING NOISES, LIGHTS WENT REALLY DIM, DOORS LOCKED ON THEIR OWN, THIS ALL WITHOUT TURNING THE KEY. THEN WHEN I TURNED THE KEY, I HAVE NOTHING...NO LIGHTS, NO SOUNDS, NOTHING. I INITIALLY SUSPECTED THE ALTERNATOR, BUT THE RESPONSE I GET WHEN I ONLY INSERT THE KEY CONFUSES ME, LIKE MAYBE I HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE. WHAT DO YOU THINK? ANYONE EVER HAD THIS PROBLEM?
  • I just learned my 2002 Tahoe has a disable system when the vehicle senses it is being stolen. Perhaps the system does not like the key you are using, esp if its a copy. Make sure you use the factory key to start and see iof that makes a differnce.
  • From: need411 I didn't get any replies so I fixed it the easy way. I traded it in on a 2005 Yukon. Let the dealer or next guy figure it out. Good Luck
  • I noticed a few drops of water leaking from the sunroof of my new 2007 Tahoe. I took it to the dealer and they were able to reproduce the problem. I was told by the service department to be "normal" in this model as the sunroof has some kind of drainage. I tried to get an answer directly from GM and I am still waiting... Has anybody experienced similar problems?
  • Xavier it is not normal for any sunroof to leak. You shouldn't let them lie to you like that and demand that they fix your truck. My mom was considering getting an Armada until we found out all the trouble with the brakes. Then we decided to go with the new Tahoe and upon reviewing we are becoming very cautious in what we choose. Please keep us updated and at all costs demand that they fix your car.
  • Hi everyone-
    I have a 1999 Tahoe with 134K. I went on a 500mi round trip and returned home. The next day I tried to start the car, motor turned over very well, strong battery and voltage, but it would not fire and has not since.

    First- I had already replaced the fuel pump (and filter) with an AC Delco 3 months prior. The pump still sounded very strong, I checked the shraeder valve at the fuel rail and there appears to be plenty of fuel (50psi+).

    Next step- I checked the spark figuring something wore out. Turns out I have enough spark to arc weld with.

    Next- Poured gas in the throat (a fairly large amount) and the car sputtered to life for approx 2-3 seconds.

    Diagnosis- We figured only when we absolutely flood the injectors with fuel will the car even attempt to fire, could this mean my injectors arent openning at the correct time? If so, we thought possibly replacing the ignition control module might fix this, does that control the firing of the injectors? I know there is a test with a voltage meter to check this, but I do not know the specific test.

    Please help, any and all information would be greatly appreciated- I hate to just throw parts at a problem if someone else has a better idea!
  • I am having the same problem with my Tahoe... rough idle and frequent stalling when at idle. Any help you could offer?
  • My Tahoe is experiencing similar issues. Rough idle and frequent stalling while idling.... any help you could offer?
  • I think I may have found a solution to the rough idle. It was as simple as a $3 can of throttle body cleaner. I took off my air intake manifold and cleaned out the valve, which was all gunked up with carbon. It is now running like a charm... thus far. I just did it a couple of hours ago, and took it on a test drive. I put my Tahoe through the paces, and through several circumstances which would normally stall it out, and it ran fine, didnt stall, and the idle sounded wonderful.
  • My air conditioner has been working perfectly when all of a sudden hot air began to flow from the driver's side vents. All the other vents including the back seat were emitting cold air. Any advice?
  • In July I was traveling down 95 in NC and with out noticing my speed on open highway, my Tahoe stumbled sort of like shutting-down. I looked at the speedometer and realized I was just under 100mph. I pressed the gas again and the thing stumbled when reaching 100. My question is, does these SUV's have some sort of governor on them?
  • UPDATE-

    Replaced the CKP- Crankshaft Positioning Sensor and the Tahoe started up immediately- HOWEVER- a new problem arose. It idled perfectly, I reved it, and turned it off again after only a minute or so since the air cleaner was off and I didnt want to suck anything bad into the engine-- BIG MISTAKE. :confuse:

    Apparently there is a Learn Procedure for new CKP's that reprograms a timing aspect in the Vehicle Controle Module. Any time you replace a CKP you need to hook up a scan tool right after so that when you start it you can run the Learn Procedure. I did not do this and now the car wont start again- when I shut off the car it erased my previous timing codes so it will not start again until it learns a new DTC code..... I had to study the manual to find all this out :sick:

    Anyways, I am soon to be back on the road again, I need to get the car to a real scan tool (I have a basic 1996+ one), but it still wont be that easy. Since the codes are erased I'll have to manually run the program, hopefully everything will work out fine--- just a WARNING to anyone else who has a similar problem-- if you change the CKP, be somewhere with a proper GM SCAN TOOL.

    Again, any input is more than welcome-- Thanks
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I replaced my Crankshaft Position Sensor and did not have any problems. And I did not need to run any re-learn process.

    By my Chevy dealer shop new crank shaft position sensor can set the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code), i.e. lit up the check engine light but even when this happens the truck will run. Re-learn will then take care of this 'false' code.

    I don't think your problem is with the crank shaft position sensor. In your earlier post you mention that you have plenty of spark and that you have plenty of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Then when you pour fuel in the intake the engine tries to start.

    Sounds like you have fuel injecting problems, i.e. injectors are not injecting fuel in the engine. Sounds weird when you say that after changing crank shaft position sensor it started up immediately but then would not again after you shut it off. Could there be some short of loose wire connection with the crank shaft position sensor that messes up other circuitry.

    It almost sounds like your computer has gone bad as I think it controls injectors directly. That would be quite bad news as they can be costly to replace.

    Check your engine ground wiring. Make sure engine is well grounded to the vehicle body and that the ground wire from the computer is well connected to the engine.

    --Arrie--
  • The wife's 03 Tahoe has started to lock or unlock the rear doors when it feels like it. You stop and put the vehicle in Park, they unlock.. sometimes. You then put the vehicle in gear and they lock.. sometimes. Yor press the door lock button and the either lock or unlock.. sometimes.

    Help is evidently needed.
    JB
  • Last update. Had to re-post

    Cant believe it, turned out to be a bad fuel pump after all. Even though we tested 55+ PSI at the rail, it turned out sporadic. It wasnt holding a constant pressure, so the tests we got were completely misleading. What makes it worse is that it was replaced only about 8 months ago.

    Even worse- DONT buy from "Global-Automotive" on Ebay. Stated in auction was a new AC Delco fuel pump warranteed for 1 year. After attempting to contact many times, filing with ebay, and finally contacting AC Delco, turns out he's selling counterfeit parts and its an open scam on Ebay, Delco is mounting a case against him and took my info as well as many others. Ebay will not suspend him since he generates so many sales (10,000 transactions + in about a year). So, im out my money.. and I'll have to pay more for a new pump- sucks

    Thanks for the help- Ed
  • dochou

    Hope I didn't take to long. Your compressor belt is comming of because of the adjustement spring. If you have the grinding noise it may be because your compressor is going out. I have heard from other writers that a lubricant can fixx this. But what a dealer is going to tell you is that you need not only replace your compressore, but also your need to replace your rear compresssor. This is wrong many times.A true mechincie will examine wheather or not enought material has gotten to your rear area. If it has not you will save nearly a thousand dollars. None the less the price the dealer charegs is much higher than a specialist.
    Check rhe price from the dealer to an auto parts store. Then ask for the dealers wholesale dept. The price will be about $200.00 Less. Part only.
  • I live in the desert and don't get too much rain. Last week experienced downpours and the leaking got worse to the point of getting the fabric wet. Took the car to dealership for second time and got the same answer: There is a "drip pan system" and some water will leak from the gasket to the drip pan and channel out of the car. I even poured water on another new tahoe from the lot and the same thing happened.... My car is getting excessive leaking and will be looked at again this week. I am still not convinced of this "new engineering" as I did also notice condensation of water on my windows as a result of moisture from the leakage. My recommendation DO NOT PURCHASE SUNROOF OPTION with the '07 Tahoe (Suburban, Avalanche, etc). I am very curious to see what other owners are experiencing, especially those living in temperate areas. By the way, GM still has not answered me.
  • Hello;
    I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe with 4WD and the 5.7-liter with the CSFI system. Getting a “check engine” light that is coming back with a P0300, Multi-port misfiring error code. I am having a problem getting this fixed and I am not able to pass the NJ DMV inspection. I can feel the rough idle when sitting waiting at a light or stop sign, but feels fine during regular driving and/or on the highway. To make a long story short I got a full tune-up (plugs, filters, etc.) and the # 2&4 fuel injectors replaced, but still getting the error.
    I took it to the GM dealer and they trouble shoot it to a bad fuel pressure regulator and it is leaking fuel into the # 3&5 cylinders, causing the misfire. The cost will be $800+ to replace the regulator, replace the throttle body gasket and do fuel systems flush. What I don’t understand why is it only leaking in only two of the injectors as the regulator looks centralize? It sounds like the two mentioned injectors are the parts going bad. Any advice on this matter and if it sounds like it will take care of my problem. Thank you.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    $800 ! What a rip off!

    Go buy the pressure regulator and change it yourself.

    The leak causing the problem on cylinders 3 and 5 I think means that fuel is leaking from the pressure regulator and dripping on the spark plugs around cylinders 3 and 5 causing a short on the spark plug boots and misfire. It would not make sense that due to pressure regulator going bad it would make only the injectors 3 & 5 to leak by. And a small amount of extra fuel in the cylinder would not cause a misfire anyways.

    If it is dripping externally please have the pressure regulator replaces ASAP as it is a serious fire hazard.

    Fuel system flush will not fix your problem. If it would, your vehicle now certainly would not run fine with higher speeds.

    Do you have the aluminum heat shields around spark plug boots? They can cause a spark leak to engine ground if not installed correctly. Also, old spark plug wires / boots lose their resistance over time and cause more spark leak.

    One easy trouble shooting step is to have your spark plug wires replaced. A set cost around $30 at car part stores (not dealer). Just make sure that the boots go deep enough on the plugs to minimize the spark leak. You can also replace the wires with high quality set that does not require use of the heat shields like I did. Set like this cost around $80, which is the cost of normal set from the dealer.

    Another item that could be the problem is the crank shaft position sensor. They are notorious of going bad and a rough idle is one of the symptoms. Sensor cost is about &70 or so from the dealer. To change it I think your starter motor must come down as it is located behind the motor. At least in my '04 tahoe it is.

    For the fuel system the only thing you need to do,in addition of changing bad pressure regulator, is to make sure your fuel injectors are clean. If you don't use injector cleaners in a regular basis it could be that injectors have build up deposits that do not allow a correct spray pattern and idle gets rough. With more throttle opening there is much more oxygen to burn and the injectors must open more. More open injector then woks better as the build up disturbs spray pattern less.

    Run a few tanks of fuel with injector cleaners to see if it helps. Sounds simple but this could fix the whole problem and cost you only about $10 - $15 extra. This is what I would do first (after replacing dripping fuel pressure regulator).

    About the throttle body gasket: Why do they want to change that? It certainly is not a problem source unless your throttle mounting bolts are so lose the gasket does not seal at all. I don't think that is the case.

    If you do find help for your problem based on this post or if you don't would you please post back the results. This forum does not work if the other readers can't see the end result.

    We all would appreciate that.

    Thanks,

    Arrie
  • lnuttlnutt Posts: 3
    1999 tahoe.keep getting service engine light,last 6 months,error codes p0430,p0420,p0304,p0300,have been trouble shooting(and spending big bucks) to correct,
    new catys,muffler& exhaust
    all new filters thru outincluding fuel&trans.
    fuel presure test,ok
    new plugs,wires,cap & rotor
    trans.flushed & oil changed,and fuel cleaners used.
    get the problem at high rev on highway,(65plus) engine gets rough,light gos on, smooths out,now getting hard to start takes two trys... frustrated!!!!! local mechs,are lost!!!
    help please anyone!!!!!!! :confuse:
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