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2006 Toyota RAV4

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  • ajg33ajg33 Posts: 13
    Has anybody had to replace their brakes yet for their '06 Rav4? I have 45k miles and have traveled all over the place in the car. I don't notice any rubbing but was curious when other people are replacing their brakes? Thanks.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Posts: 7,160
    This is quoted directly from Toyota's Sourcebooks from their online eShowroom.

    Regular Maintenance
    Both manual and automatic transmissions require regular maintenance to help ensure their proper operation. Transmission fluid loses its friction properties and can become contaminated over time. The maintenance schedules in Repair Manuals or Owners Manuals indicate the appropriate intervals based on how the vehicle is used.
    Currently (2008) for vehicles that are used for towing (severe service), recommended replacement of the automatic transmission fluid at is 60,000 miles or 72 months and every 30,000 miles, or 72 months thereafter. This is for drivers who regularly:
    • Tow a trailer, or use a camper or car top carrier
    • Operate on dusty, rough, muddy or salt-spread roads
    • Travel short distances (less than 5 miles) when the outside temperature is below freezing
    • Engage in low speed driving for long distances or extensive idling (e.g. police, taxi drivers or delivery personnel)
    Manual transmission vehicles regularly used for towing should have their transmission fluid replaced at 30,000 miles or 36 months and every 30,000 or 36 months thereafter.
    The normal maintenance schedule for both automatic and manual transmission does not recommend an inspection of the fluid or any specific replacement interval. This is for vehicles that are not routinely used for towing (severe service).
    Automatic transmissions using ATF-WS fluid (2004–2008) have an inspection interval of 100,000 miles and no specific replacement interval.

    Checking the Fluid Level in Automatiatic Transmissions
    The fluid level in an automatic transmission should be checked with the dipstick after the transmission has been warmed up to normal operating temperature (approximately 158°F to 176°F). As a rule of thumb, if the graduated end of the dipstick is too hot to hold, the fluid is at operating temperature.
    The fluid level is proper if it is in the “hot” range between “hot maximum” and “hot minimum.” The “cool” level on the dipstick should be used as a reference only when the transmission is cold. The correct fluid level should only be checked when the fluid is hot and the transmission is in “Park” with the engine running at idle.
    To ensure proper operation of the automatic transmission, the fluid level should be kept at the correct level at all times. If the fluid level is too low, the transmission oil pump can draw in air, causing air to mix with the fluid. This lowers the hydraulic pressure, causing slippage and potential damage to the clutches and brakes. If the fluid level is too high, the planetary gears and other rotating components agitate the fluid. This can cause air bubbles to collect in the fluid and may result in similar complications as a low fluid level. In addition, this aerated fluid tends to rise in the case and may leak from the breather plug at the top of the transmission or through the dipstick tube.

    Transmissions using ATF-WS (some model Toyotas 2004–2008) are sealed units and do not require a fluid change during the life of the vehicle under normal operating conditions. Therefore fluid checks are not necessary and the dipsticks have been eliminated on these vehicles.

    In a transaxle (front wheel drive) the differential is part of the transaxle and is lubricated by the same fluid as the transmission, regardless if it’s an automatic or manual transmission.
    Automatiatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
    Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is a special hi-grade petroleum-based mineral oil mixed with several special additives. From 1994 through 2008 the main types of automatic transmission fluid used in Toyota vehicles are:
    • Dexron III
    • Type T
    • Type T-II
    • Type T-IV
    • ATF-WS
    Transmissions specifying Dexron III can only use that type of fluid.
    Type T-IV can replace both Type T and Type T-II.
    ATF-WS is only used on some later model Toyotas (2004–2008) and has the advantage of a 100,000 mile inspection interval and no required fluid change during the life of the vehicle under normal operating conditions. Therefore the transmissions on these vehicles are sealed, eliminating the transmission fluid dipstick.
  • I recently replaced my front brakes at 40,000
  • judy34judy34 Posts: 1
    I recently brought my Rav4 in because the brake booster failed. What a scary experience that was, I was driving slowly thank God, when I had to use my brakes but they weren't there for me. I immediately took my Rav4 to our family mechanic and his findings were the brake booster. $900.00 to repair. The kicker tho is this, he's not sure if the master cylinder played a role in the booster's failure, he needs to replace the part then test it so we are looking at another possible repair bill. ($600-$700) My vehicle is 12 days over the 36 months and it has 44,000 miles.
    This is my first Toyota and my last. I have always had good fortune with my cars.

    I am curious if anyone else has had or are having the same issues?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sorry to hear about the timing, though the miles would have disqualified it even 13 days ago.

    I doubt Toyota would help, otherwise why sell extended warranties. I can say that extended warranties on them are very cheap, and $700 is really not that bad after the 3rd year.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    When a brake booster fails all you have to do to apply braking is PRESS HARDER.

    You post implies, clearly, that something more than the booster had failed, was failing.
  • ajg33ajg33 Posts: 13
    I have a 2006 Rav4 that had a tire that was loosing air. I would refill the tire and after a week or so it would loose pressure and the tire pressure light would turn on. I took it to a local mechanic and found that it was the tire pressure sensor valve that was leaking air. For $20 he replaced it with a regular value versus $100 for a sensor valve. The problem is the tire pressure light on the dash is still on. If I ask the dealer to reset the light will it go off or will the light always be on because one of the tires does not have a sensor? Thanks.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Now you get to pay $100 for a new sensor valve plus the $20 you paid to have what was more likely than otherwise a perfectly good sensor valve thrown away.

    Also more likely than otherwise it was simply a defective valve core/seal, or maybe even a valve core seal seat, easy repair or at worse a 25 ct part.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The light will just come back on.
  • tucson2tucson2 Posts: 1
    I had to have my brakes replaced at 29,000. Now at 50k they seem to be going out again. I have never had to replace my brakes before 65,000 on any other car I have driven.

    Is anyone else having this problem.
  • Got front brakes changed at 45K and now back for rear at 60K. Considering I'm rough on brakes and from what I've read so far, I think I'm doing well!
  • I have a 2006 Rav4 Sport Edition 4WD bought brand new that I have had problems with since I got it. First I had to have the radio replaced 4 times in 3 months due to electrical issues (starting when I had the car 1 month) then I had to have the transmission reprogrammed due to an electrical issue at 5 months. I was good until I had the car a little over 1 1/2 years and 27,000 miles when I had to replace my first set of brakes (December 2007), my brake pads (front and back) were down to metal and the rotors needed to be replaced. In December 2008 at roughly 44,000 miles I had to bring it in again b/c of the front brakes and again I was metal on metal. In August 2009 at 53,000 miles I brought it in for an oil change and found out my waterpump was gone and I had to get it replaced. Now in October 2009 I had to bring it in yet again for the brakes and at 58,000 miles, I was at 95% wear on the pads (front and back this time). I spoke to the Service Manager at my local dealership and was told that my brakes were not a problem and it is normal to change them ever 14,000 miles, I also spoke with the Toyota Regional Service Manager and was told the same thing. I realize I do A LOT of driving but this model has horrible brake wear. I had a 2001 RAV4 before this and only changed my brakes every 30 - 35,000 miles.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    you need to stop buying the Toyota stock pads, that's the problem! After three times and you're only getting 14,000 miles out of them? That is horrible, but be honest how hard are you braking? Slamming on the brakes 10 feet before you have to stop? I am NOT defending Toyota, as I've seen their pads go in about 28-30k miles. Remember your newer RAV4 is heavier than the 2001 model. But ever think that Toyota made a pad like this so that you'd keep giving them your money? I say STOP! time for another pad!

    I would suggest www.Porterfield-brakes.com they are a performance shop in california, they make a high performance street pad made of carbon-kevlar, last car I had their pads on they lasted me 50,000 miles and this was not at a cost of performance! R4-S is the name of the pad. They make other pads, but they're for racing and wouldn't work on normal street driving. They are about $90 for the fronts and $80 for the rears. But.. They are much better performance and last MUCH longer! The stock pads from Toyota were always "mushy" and *yawn inducing* in performance. So give the Porterfield a try, I think you'll like them. I know I do :shades:
  • Thank you for the suggestion! I hope to not have the vehicle for more than the next 5k miles though (too much money sunk into a 3 1/2 year old vehicle). This vehicle has been dissapointing to me all the way aroud from gas milage (20MPG Highway - 18MPG City) to mechanical issues that Toyota doesn't want to address. I also have a 2006 Solara that is going to need it's 1st brake change soon so I will try the brakes you suggested :shades: .
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    you're welcome for the suggestion! glad to help!

    One thing I did forget was that with the porterfield brakes I just received, they had put an adhesive-type (stick-on) shim on the back of the brake pad for mine. What happened was that the brakes heated up and began to bake that stick-on shim off to the point it was smelling like BBQ and smoking too! ouch. I since removed the stick on shim and replaced it with the factory shims (got them from the dealer) along with some brake grease (white sticky stuff from toyota) and no more issues. I think porterfield wanted to give people shims but this shim didn't work. So if they come with stick on shims remove them, replace with the factory metal shims.

    I still say they're great pads, just a slight modification is what I needed. Just helping you when you do order them up. :)

    Also- I don't blame you for dumping the rav4. The treatment toyota has given me as well I don't plan on looking to them for my next vehicle.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    you need to find out which of "your" drivers are driving along with their left foot resting lightly on the brake pedal.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..great pads, just a slight modification...needed..."

    Or you need to find out who is riding the brakes.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    I'm talking about a modifcation to the stick-on shim that Porterfield added which doesn't need to be there and to be replaced with the factory/stock shim instead. The stick-on shim was incompatible with the characteristics of the carbon-kevlar material. Remove it, replace with the factory shims (or get new from the dealer) and all is well. Even Porterfield agreed that they're not going to be adding it on future pads after I reported the issue.

    So I'm not sure what you're talking about in your post, riding the brakes? Had nothing to do with the shim that was incompatible.
  • I'm really surprised with this post. I have a 2006 Rav and other than the radio problems that have been well documented, not a single problem. Brakes still going strong at a little over 30,000 miles. Tires, the same. Obviously not driven as much as post above but still surprised at the problems noted. I remember a past Honda Accord i had which was doing great on brakes till my teenage son's started driving. Braking to quick stops will do that for sure. Anyway, probably keep this Rav for several more years (paid off now). Thinking of getting a 2010 Camry Hybrid to replace our 03 TL. But money only obstacle.
  • I purchased two Michelin tires for my RAV4 with idential speed rating to the original equipment on my vehicle. I think it was 100H. When it came time to replace the next two tires, they could not get the same tires. Since I could not wait several weeks for new tires, I replaced them with 99S tires made by Michelin. They put these on the front and said I could not rotate my tires anymore. I notice no handling problems with the car. I have spent about $200 a tires so I don't want to swap these out. Does anyone know if the tire dealer gave me some bad advice?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, the 99 refers to the load rating, though it's so close it probably won't make much difference.

    As for the S vs. H speed rating, that is mostly a measure of resistance to heat at sustained high speeds. Again, probably won't matter much unless you take it to the salt flats at Bonneville for a land speed record (doubtful).

    Do this, though - make sure the tire pressure is never low. The 99S tire is less resistance to heat and rated for smaller loads, so at the very minimum make sure that pressure is always, always good.
  • I have a 2006 Rav4 Limited 4 cyl. I did replace brakes at about 38,000 and the only other repair was a leaking water pump at about 60,000. I am now at 78,000 and figure I will need brakes sometime soon since I tend to sit in traffic. Other than changing fluids and tires once, that's it. I do only use the Toyota dealer and I tell them what maintenance I want, I don't want to be sold a package of goods. This is now my 6th Toyota and it ranks high in reliability for me. My Highlander was great, but had some rattles that were never resolved. My 4Runner had an electrical problem that shorted out lights, but a complaint to Toyota in California netted a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty that I didn't have to use.
  • Curious what tires you replaced originals with? And more importantly how they ride, etc etc. I have original Geolanders. Mine's an 06 as well, but only a little over 30,000 miles so still no problems, brakes, tires etc. but at some point i may opt for new tires (maybe before next summer).....thanks. And i too use only dealer and car's been great (except the $#&*$# radio which is the 3rd one (and so far hopefully the last - 1.5 years now.).
  • I don't ride the brakes, and I drive pretty gently because I have clients in the car very frequently. When I quizzed the service manager, he said it was because the RAV4 was built using the Corolla platform and its extra weight meant that the brakes were under more stress. But I thought that the 2006 RAV4 on had their own, newer platform.
    Anyway, a couple months after the brake job, the car started rattling at stop lights, so far the mechanic hasn't found the problem, but it is irritating as all get out. Between those issues and the intermittent low tire pressure light that comes on for no reason, probably my last Toyota. 33,000 miles and the car looks great, but drives like a geriatric geezer.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    The service manager is lying to you. Typical toyota dealer service lies. They make stuff up as they go along.

    The brake pads are cheap quality that's why they're not lasting. Toyota obviously saved money by putting on a cheaper quality pad that wouldn't last as long. You're not alone in short life on the brake pads. I don't blame you for not wanting to keep the car. If you do keep it and still need brake pads. You should get a longer lasting pad. Porterfield R4-S pads come to mind. Performance and longevity.

    Plus if they cannot fix the problem of the rattling in 3 times before your warranty is gone, you can claim lemon law! :lemon:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Brake pad HIGH frictional content, GREAT braking ability......SHORT PAD LIFE.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    rattling in 3 times before your warranty is gone, you can claim lemon law!

    Nope - in most states it's only for the first year, much shorter than most warranties.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    There's also usually a trade-off in noise.

    I have 27k on my Sienna's brake pads and they still look brand new, but I tend to coast to red lights to save gas.
  • i too had to replace my brakes at 29,000. i am very easy on brakes and alot of those miles were road miles. also just replaced my water pump at 36,000. thank goodness that was covered by warranty as the bill was quite high. i dont think i have had any vehicle with these problems this early in the mileage count. thought i was getting a better vehicle when i bought a toyota.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It may simply be the weight of the vehicle. More mass (than you're used to perhaps?) means more energy to stop.
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